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 Post subject: Tools needed to get started
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 8:13 pm 
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I'm looking for a list of tools i will need to start doing my own home security/cctv installs.I'm an electrician so i have a bunch already.What i'm looking for are specifics like this particular kit http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ccessories I've already done my own Ademco Vista 20P home security install and i've been bitin by the bug to do more and expand my knowledge.Any help will be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 1:56 am 
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Nice little kit! I was going to recommend going with compression connectors over standard two- and three-piece crimp types - way easier to work with, very solid if done properly, and most versions form watertight connections.

Another thing you'll want to look at is tools for doing RJ-45 connections, in case you need to install IP cameras, and/or connect DVRs to a network. A good set of crimpers should be all you really need, as they should have built-in tools for stripping and cutting Cat-5e/Cat-6 cable... or you can go with a complete kit.

You'll also want something in a small portable monitor for aiming and focusing cameras. You can get nice "professional" units designed specifically for CCTV, that have high-resolution LCDs, can output 12VDC for powering cameras, generate a test signal, and have pass-thrus for your camera signal. Those tend to be a bit on the pricier side, though ($300+ range)... for just starting out, you can get a cheap portable DVD player with A/V inputs for well under $100. The screen resolution isn't as high, but they're sufficient for probably 99% of the work you'll do.

Another option, especially if you'll be working with IP cameras, is a small-ish laptop and some sort of video-capture add-on (or better yet, a laptop with built-in video capture, although those are rare). I have an Adaptec GameBridge (cost about $30) that I use with my laptop to input analog video via USB, and it works great for tweaking cameras... and with a retractable network cable with crossover switch, it's good for configuring and adjusting IP cameras as well.

Also useful (actually, damn near indispensable):
- A set of fiberglass "glow rods" (or "fish sticks" as we like to call them).

- A good multimeter (with or without the rest of the kit, although the electrical testers can be handy at times). Audible continuity test is important!

- A pair of GOOD cutter/crimpers (Channel-Locks or similar)... you'll be crimping other wires besides just coax (power runs, spade terminals, etc.) and something that operates smoothly and has long handles for good leverage will really make life a lot more comfortable over time :)

And in the nice-to-have category:

- Signal tracer

- Cable tester (network or coax, or find one that does both in one unit)

(Many cable testers also have signal-tracer functionality, although you may still need the seeker wand).

Note: I've linked to Sears pages, since you're already shopping there, but there are plenty of other options out there! For example, I use a LanRoamer network tester kit and highly recommend it - it doesn't just do continuity checks on the cables, but will tell you what sort of wiring faults it finds (if any), as well as where breaks and shorts are in the line, and the total length of a run. It, too, has a signal-tracer function that I can use with my regular tracer's wand, and the kit I went with has 8 remote modules for helping identify runs (the base module will tell you which of 8 it's connected to).

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:08 am 
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Oh... don't forget a good cordless drill, and an assortment of wood, steel, and masonry bits and hole saws. Something with hammer-drill functionality will be extra useful if you ever need to mount cameras to brick or concrete walls (although you may need to rent something like a full-size Hilti or Bosch for those bigger holes). Tapcon screws are lifesavers for this as well.

I can't stress enough, too... if you're really planning on doing this professionally, DO NOT cheap out on your basic tools! Some things you can get away with having them break and wear out after some moderate use, but good quality tools are not only more reliable, they tend to be smoother-operating, more accurate, and just all around nicer to use, leading to less job stress.

This ESPECIALLY holds true of power tools - my beat-up old 14V NiCad Milwaukee cordless drill continues to kick ass over my co-worker's 18V Ryobi kit, which contains two drills (one regular, one hammer), an impact driver, and two lithium-ion batteries he got in addition to the NiCads they shipped with. The Milwaukee just keeps chugging away while he's constantly switching batteries, or even switching drills, as the hammer-drill is stronger but its chuck has a nasty tendency to loosen itself. I think the Milwaukee cost about as much as its own as his complete drill/recip-saw/sander/light/mini-vac/radio kit did... you really do get what you pay for.

Don't get me wrong, the Ryobi is pretty good for a low-cost kit (as the foreman on one site put it with regard to his own Ryobi kit, you don't worry as much if someone borrows one and it doesn't come back), and for something you only use occasionally, budget tools will usually be just fine... but when you're relying on a tool working day in and day out, you'll be glad you spent the extra for quality.

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 Post subject: tools
PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:04 am 

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For the standard burg/fire alarms and cctv, I carry daily a minimal.

for job site security of your expensive tools, when not using or in the process of transporting... use a chain to loop the conduit benders, power tool boxes, fish tapes and other items and secure to handle of utility cart. use other chain to secure utility cart to a metal staircase handrail, standpipe or whatever is around to prevent easy snatch and run thefts.

rubbermaid plastic utility cart
qty (2) 4ft. lengths of chain and 2 large padlocks combo or keyed.
5 gal buckets for trash or carrying parts from the truck.
drop cloth
contractor trash bags
shopvac for cleanup.
fish tape 250 ft & 100 ft.
greenlee glow stixs 15 ft kit
pull string
gopher pole
Hilti TE16C ATC Hammer Drill (corded) qty 2 kits
Hilti SF 181 Hammer Drill (cordless) qty 2 kits
Ideal BNC Hex Crimper
Ideal Compression Crimper
drill bits 3/8", 5/8", 1/4", 5/16"
stepbits aka Unibit
Greenlee Hydraulic Knockout kit
Klein wire strippers & lineman's pliers
Klein screwdrivers and nut drivers
standard hacksaw and spare blades.
benders for 1/2", 3/4", 1"
magnetic level
electrical tape (black, white, gray, brown)
drywall saw
rotary spiral saw (battery powered or corded)
steel flex cutter (bx cutter for 1/2")
caulk gun with 12 tubes of silicone
utility knife
spackle, joint compound, tape and knife.
small 36"x26" drywall sections
spray paints (primier, oil base primer, flat white, flat off white)
safety cones & caution tape
safety glasses & hearing protection (have extra sets avail just incase)
dust masks


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 2:57 pm 

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Dremel tool, & I won't buy a knock off & I won't buy a cordless one.
I also have a die grinder which, against mfg recommendations, I use for cutting (bolts, rod, wiremold,).
Reciprocating saw (as an electrician you've probably got a sawzall or something but a good cordless reciprocating saw is quite handy).
Small roll of stiff galvanized wire for making probes & fishes.

Good luck, it's a tough way to make a living but running your own business is the most fun you can have while vertical.
If it ain't, you're in the wrong place :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:22 pm 
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You guys have said it all! Nothing left for me to add.



How to drill through Fire Stops down a wall, or How to Horizontal Drill and Bore through rafters on a flat roof!

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jht ... Prod100181

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jht ... Prod100186

The smallest spade bit you can use is the 3/4 because of the size on the chuck that interlocks the 12" extension.

If I have to bore through a 2X4 5 feet down the wall then all I have to do is connect 5 extensions together.

I like this style because I can press on the drill such as going through a knot in the wood. The 6 foot whip style drill bits will flex under pressure, and I might bend it enough to come out of the wall at the wrong point.

Ooops!




This is a great device where you need to install wiring in your walls that are nonelectrical in nature. This can be used for AV cables such as TV, Satellite, audio, cctv, video, and telephone.

Place the trim ring against the wall, and use a level, and then trace the inside of the ring with a pencil. Use a drywall saw to cut out the pencil trace. Install the ring. There is a tab on the top, and the bottom. When you rotate the screws the tabs will lock in behind the drywall. As you turn the screws the tab will tighten against the drywall. Re check the level of the trim ring.

You can pull your wires out and then use a wall plate that has a hole in it.


Low Voltage Trim Ring

Carlon SC100R Old Work Bracket Single Gang
http://www.carlon.com/SC/SC_Blue9.html


Wall plate with .406 hole (or dremel the hole bigger)

http://www.westsidewholesale.com/electr ... plate.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:00 am 
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A great source for wall fishing and other odd tools is Labor Saving Devices, http://www.lsdinc.com/content/main ... And I think I'm working in the wrong places, how come no one mentioned needing a flashlight? :) I use a DeWalt 18 volt one so I can use my same batteries, plus I have a small LED one in my pocket for backup (and yes, I have used it, there's a gap between a cooler box and exterior wall that ate one of my previous flashlights!)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:51 am 
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Thanks for all the recomendations everyone..Looking at picking up a new Toyota Tundra to haul my gear in also..


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:05 pm 
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Is this for your house or are you going into the security industry?
If you are going into the security industry you might need a state license most states require those now for security and cctv installers.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 2:17 pm 
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Just for my personal home and some family members.Whenever i'm back in NJ,family always has a to do list for me.This last trip was security light heaven.Next trip will be cctv system.Thank goodness i went to school for electronics and electrical engineering.Learned a lot working for the contractors i worked for.I think once i retire from the military i'm gonna go back into the security/cctv bizz.Won't be looking to make a bunch of money,but rather do something that i love doing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 2:20 pm 
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hardwired wrote:
A great source for wall fishing and other odd tools is Labor Saving Devices, http://www.lsdinc.com/content/main ... And I think I'm working in the wrong places, how come no one mentioned needing a flashlight? :) I use a DeWalt 18 volt one so I can use my same batteries, plus I have a small LED one in my pocket for backup (and yes, I have used it, there's a gap between a cooler box and exterior wall that ate one of my previous flashlights!)


I use Surefire for my flashlights..... Not cheap but the best.

http://www.surefire.com/E1B-Backup

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Last edited by thewireguys on Sun Sep 20, 2009 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 3:14 pm 
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SureFire led lights are great.I get them from the military..


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:22 pm 

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Location: USA

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Don't forget coat hangers and small chain tied to string. Use magnet taped to coat hanger wire to find chain inside walls. I use magnets from burglar alarm door switches. Wire fishing is fun!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:36 pm 
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marty wrote:
Don't forget coat hangers and small chain tied to string. Use magnet taped to coat hanger wire to find chain inside walls. I use magnets from burglar alarm door switches. Wire fishing is fun!

Neat idea.That's why i came here.To get the know how..


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:33 am 

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Stronger magnet is magnetic Pick Up Tool used by auto mechanics.
Image

Another use for coat hangers is cut them into 3" sections. Use as drill bits. I drill down next to wall, then remove drill from coat hanger bit. Leave bit in floor. Go down in basement to see where you at.

Also don't forget the small trained monkeys to pull wire over suspended ceilings and other hard to get to places.


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