has anyone seen this before and can it be fixed. Camera gets plugged in and fine for a couple of hours than it does this. Unplugged again for a while and after a few hours same problem

http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/5d723cc4/bc/My+Folder/G3Southcam02041.jpg?bfsDsECBJJeql3_0

link don't work

see if this works

http://profiles.yahoo.com/ronniepennington

yeah i seen it before on a $50 color bullet camera, we just chucked it, It is the light that is causing the bleed, not sure why maybe someone else has some info on it. What type of camera is it? Change it if you can.

Rory

It's actually a high res fixed block camera
JVC TK-C920U 535TVL. First Problem I have heard of with them and have sold 1000's installed. This is the only 1 I know this has happened to. I can't just chuck it.

The camera must be defective.

I only seen this on cameras with cheap or bad capacitors.

i thought jvc stopped making cameras? :o

Send it back if you can.
Or try a difference lens first. Auto Iris if the Current Lens is manual Iris.

those $50 cameras i mentioned, they cost us $150 time as we land them here, and i still chuck them if they go bad, as heck its going to cost me just as much to send it back ..only $300+ cameras I ever send back for warranty.

That is CCD damage, you probably changed the lens on a dome camera, and may have screwed it in too far and damged the CCD some board lenses have longer shanks than others, other than that it could be just a very badly damged CCD from bad electronics, this usually only happens when the ccd gets major damge or heating issues

It is a defective camera, either the board or the capacitor.

I'm guessing, the cameras going to be less than a year old so any chance of a warranty replacement?

For what it's worth, I doubt that the issue is with the CCD, damage or otherwise, as it would be unlikely to work o.k. for a few hours and then start playing up (possible but not very likely).

My best guess is a signal processing issue (heat related), either down to a poor board connection, dry solder joint or component failure. As the camera warms up over a period of hours, whatever is causing the problem is kicking in.

Try switching off anything you can (AGC, BLC, White Balance to manual, LL to internal) and leave the camera with AES switched on, lens removed (and unplugged if it's auto iris). Run the camera under low room lighting for a few hours and see if the problem is obvious on your test monitor (don't worry about the lack of 'picture').

If the problem appears, pick the camera up and gently move it around to see if the 'bleeding' becomes worse. Try pointing the camera towards a bright light source and see if it intensifies.

With the problem on screen, gently tap around the camera with your hand (upright and inverted - the camera that is, not your hand!) to see if the problem gets better or worse. If it's a dry joint or poor connection, this will often become apparent with the 'tap' test. If it's a component failure, then unless you are feeling very brave and have a shed load of surface mount maintenance gear lying around, then the camera will probably have to go back.

Incidentally, if it is a component issue, then an engineers freezer spray will help identify the problem part, but as to how you replace it, it's probably a hugely expensive board replacement exercise for a 2 cent part :roll:

Thank you all for your Input. We are sending the camera back.