FarmerCharlie

Some years ago I used two different AverMedia cards to record wildlife-related videos.  I've been thinking recently about getting some sort of IP-based system, but I have never been motivated to go ahead.  At least not until yesterday, when my wife asked me. "Whose truck is that leaving our pasture and going out the driveway?"  That motivated me to get serious.  Until that incident I had assumed that I would use some sort of stand-alone wired system independent of my computer, but now I think I may need something that could handle some wireless I.P. cameras in addition to wired ones.  In the past I have seen some stand-alone systems at pretty low cost at places like COSTCO and BestBuy, but I have no feel for how well they would meet my needs.  I think I would prefer something that could handle at least 8 cameras, record if a motion event is detected and would not require a long-term subscription.  I'm an old retired I.T. director, so I can handle basic network issues.  I do not currently have a static IP address, but I think I could get one if necessary.  I know that it would be unreasonable to ask the forum to design a system for me, but I thought maybe someone could point me in the right direction to help me get up to speed.  I have looked over the Ultimate IP Camera guide and have started watching the IPVM 101 Training Videos.  They have lots of information that I will be studying them in more detail. 

Thanks for any suggestions.

Charlie

Excuse me for bumping a really old thread, but I stumbled onto an answer to a question that was posed, and thought some might be interested. The thread was about converting over from RG59 to Cat5 for some wildlife cameras about 300 feet from the house. I went ahead and used video baluns for the video and audio baluns for the audio, and it worked fine. But today I wanted to add another audio channel, and I could not find the extra audio baluns I had ordered. I thought it worth a try to see if regular passive video baluns would work, and THEY DID!.

The quality may not be up to the standards of most folks on this forum, but it did at least work.

IF this does not work let me know and ill send you a code that will install it.

Thanks.

I sent you a PM.

Charles

Your System Setting window seems to have dropped some periods in the IP address - dunno if that's the screen cap, or real, but that could cause it. You can double-check that by looking in the \Program Files (x86)\remoteAP\DVR00.INI file, [Network] section, and checking that the IP address and other settings are correct there.

The periods were actually missing. I redid the setup to correct them, but it still is doing the same thing. Then I looked for the DVR00.ini file. I can't find a file by that name in the remoteAP folder or anywhere else on the remote computer. Should it get created by the setup program?

I have an nv6240E8 on a Windows7 computer and am trying to access it with the remote DVR on another Windows computer on the same Cisco Cisco Linksys N600 router. I had the remote console working on a previous Windows XP computer, but can't get it going after installing the new computer. I can ping the computer OK, and can access it's hard drives from the second computer with no problems.

I downloaded the remote console yesterday from the AverMedia site. It's screens seem quite different from the old version I had been using. In the setup I noticed that the network setting dialog box seems to cover an area that has "Language" in the background (see SetupScreen.jpg). And when I select Network, the authorization box looks a little strange (See RemoteLoginAuthorization.jpg). And when I try to login, the connection fails with the error "Connection Server Failed."

All these screens are new to me compared to the previous RemoteConsole program I had been using for several years.

I would appreciate any ideas on just what might be the problem. I have already tried uninstalling and then re-installing the remote software.

Thanks,

Charles

Did you call Aver's tech support yet?

I upgraded to a NV6240 and a new homebuilt computer, and the problem stayed the same. An Avermedia tech recommended installing the latest software, which I did. Still the same problem.

The sound was present when I played the files remotely on another computer, but not when I played them on the original computer.

Then the other day I happened to run the Volume Control software while actual;ly playing back a video file. Lo and behold, there was a new tab called "System Starting." I noticed that the volume was very low, so I increased it. Problem solved. I guess I feel pretty stupid for not doing that before. I'm attaching a screen capture showing the new tab.

I have never used the backup feature, but will give it a try.

Just so I understand, once you backup two hours, can you then select a section that includes parts of both hours and export it to an AVI file?

This conversion is almost done. I used the 4-channel video balun and a 4-channe power supply in the gazebo with Siamese RG59 going appx 200 feet from the two nest box cameras to the balun. Appx. 300 feet of Cat6 then goes from the balun to the balun at the computer in the house. For audio I used audio baluns at each of the cameras in the two nest boxes with Cat6 going to the gazebo and spliced to the second Cat6 going to the house. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DPUSPS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

I was hoping that the switch to audio baluns might eliminate the slight 60Hz hum from the camera microphones, but it is still there. The next step will be to switch the two cameras with the 200 foot RG59 runs to use video baluns directly at the cameras and using the Cat6 that I already ran for the audio. That will then be much as what Soundy suggested. I'll probably keep using the power supply in the Siamese cable, since it seems to be working OK.

Here is a link to the monitor from the Avermedia NV6240E card.

http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/FarmerCharlie/web/VideoSurveillance/20120508Overview.jpg

The two upper panels show a female wood duck entering the box to set on her eggs.

Thanks to all for the suggestions on this conversion.

I may have stumbled on a work-around using the Mask feature in the Setup-Recording screen.

I tried setting the mask to cover the entire water area. This is not ideal, but it may reduce the number of false triggers.

I checked the false triggering just before sunset today, and the camera does seem to be triggering on reflections even with the sensitivity dialed down as far as it would go.

Note the three black boxes where the reflections of the sun are sparkling on the water.

Is there any way to set the sensitivity to zero? I want to trigger based only on motion at the entrance of the nest box.

 

Don't You like challenges ?

Yeah. I even used to be an engineer. In my previous life I designed radio telemetry physiology monitoring systems that worked with the old GYYR time-lapse videotape recorders to trigger the recording when the system detected cardiac arrhythmias. I guess that pretty-well dates me, huh? Now days all I do is chase dogs and watch birds, but I still like to piddle with electronic gadgets.

Or build small NVR ( 10-20 wt )

IP cam about 4 wt each

plus switch

and get better image then Analog

Uh-oh. Now you've got me thinking way beyond my experience. I just recently setup my first Balun for a long video run, and now you've got me thinking I.P. all the way. Guess I need to start thinking this through from the ground up.

get a DVR that wants 12V DC power, rather than 110/220V AC, also get 12V DC cameras.

then, straight away you are more efficient going from batteries as there is no conversions (dc>ac>dc would be very inefficient)

Good points. I did a quick Google search for dc powered dvr, and came up with this:

http://www.surveillance-spy-cameras.com/12-volt-dvr.htm

It says 12 volts at 2 amps, which would come to only 24 watts. It is only about $300. Would something like this work?

And do these stand-alone systems have the same sort of sophisticated motion detection I am used to on the Avermedia card? For instance, I can trigger recording based on motion just at the entrance of a nest box, and I can setup several motion zones on each camera.

This could turn into a fun project. But I probably need to speak with a good vendor who can help me skip the mistakes I would probably make entirely on my own. Any recommendations?

[...]

I think my QVis 8-ch (Basically dahua) runs like 30-80. I have measured my 8 cameras and the DVR and it was under 100W total!

That sounds pretty good. Maybe it would be more doable than I thought.

IR will use much more power, and so will PTZ.

The IR might be an issue. Most of the cameras people use in nest boxes have IR, and I suspect the IR lighting is active even during the day. Maybe I ought to test a regular board camera and see if the natural lighting is enough. I know that the little cameras I use in nest boxes have way too much illumination; I cover the LEDs with adhesive take to reduce it. Maybe one or two LEDs would be enough.

Is there a reasonable camera you would suggest I test for low light and about an 8 inch focus?

Thanks for the food for thought.

Charles

A friend of mine said he would like to setup a system similar to my Avermedia PC card system. Problem is, it is a secluded nature site without electricity. I don't think it would be practical to try to setup a regular PC system and try to run it on batteries. But I was wondering if any of the folks here had come up with a reasonable approach for such locations.

I did find a few examples of solar powered systems, but they look a little too expensive for his application.

Thanks,

Charles

Thanks to all for the suggestions. That gives me so ideas for moving ahead.

Charles

I just noticed on my NV6240E8 that I cannot seem to export a video clip that extends across an hour boundary. If I mark a beginning segment near the end of one hour and then mark the ending segment near the beginning of the next hour, then the beginning segment marker disappears. I found a discussion of this subject a few years ago at viewtopic.php?f=43&t=20098&hilit=avermedia+export+video

In that discussion someone said you can cross the hour mark if you do the export on a remote computer. But on my remote computer the option to select segments is inactive, and all I can export is a still image.

Does anyone know a way to solve this issue?

I am using DVR version 7.7.0.0127

Charles

Hi FarmerCharlie. i would say if you can pay a little more for your converter. the reason being not all have auto setup (cant be seen via device management) without a driver.

the aver will also take USB to RS485 for control

 

you also only need 1 for as many PTZs as you want.

Any recommendations on the correct card/converter?

I had assumed I would need one serial channel per PTZ camera. Is that not correct?

I have an NV6240E8, which seems to be working pretty well. I'm thinking about experimenting with PTZ cameras, and could use some advice. I assume something like this would work from one RS232 port.

http://www.usconverters.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181&gclid=COWS3YSR_ZgCFRwpawodaDInmA

If I later wanted to add more PTZ cameras, should I use a multi-channel RS232 board and multiple converters, or is there a better approach?

I have seen several Sony PTZ cameras going for about $100 on EBay. Could someone point me to a tutorial to help me decide which cameras might be appropriate?

Thanks,

Charles

Hi. yes you have 2 options. 1. go to setup then go camera recording then pick cam 3 from the cameras at the top. this will then give you a realtime image of cam 3 with black squires were movment is detected. on the left you will see a slider (motion) turn it dowm till you see no squires. click ok and see how that goes

Thanks. Normally I can get the black squares to disappear at a sensitivity of about 50. But just before sunset the reflections flicker so much that it still triggers when I slide it to "1". I think the sensitivity was set as low as it would go during the recordings I posted. I'll check again this afternoon to confirm whether my memory is correct.

I'm having a problem getting the capture software to ignore triggers from Camera 3. That camera has a lot of glare on the water in the afternoon, which generates lots of false alarms. So I tried setting the record sensitivity as low as it will go, and I set the alarm panel to use motion detection on only channels 1 and 2. But I still get lots of false alarms when the sun reflects off the water.

Here is what the four cameras look like during record:

http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/FarmerCharlie/web/VideoSurveillance/20120406_Camera3Glare.jpg

Note the reflections off of the water.

And here is a playback showing the numerous false triggers from Camera 3 (indicated by the green marks).

http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz159/FarmerCharlie/web/VideoSurveillance/20120406PlaybackGlareCam3.jpg

I think the reflections are what is causing the false triggers.

Is there any way to get the system to totally ingore triggers from Camera 3, but still show Camera 3 data when one of the other cameras triggers?

I am using DVR Version 7.7.0.0127 on an NVV6240EX8.

I'm a little confused. In your example where would the video balun go? Wouldn't I need to use the existing rg59 to go from the cameras to the balun?

Balun goes at the camera; video and power run over the Cat5 from the gazebo to the camera. Then you just use a single Cat5 to run all three video feeds and one audio feed back from the gazebo to the house, where you have the second balun for each run. The video and audio pairs just splice straight together at the gazebo.

I think I understand. I would use separate single baluns at each camera instead of the 4-channel balun in the gazebo. I guess they would also need to be weatherproof.

If there's existing coax and power from the gazebo to the camera locations though, just go ahead and use that - if it ain't broke, don't fix it

That makes sense. I'll check the old Siamese power lines to make sure they are still intact.

Thanks

Not sure how that balun would work for audio; the audio baluns I'm used to using in a live or studio situation are wired and function a little differently than passive video baluns. Then again, it might work fine... look at it this way, you can try it, and worst case, if the audio doesn't work, you can just split off that pair and run it through baluns specifically designed for audio.

Would these work for the audio?

http://www.myscshop.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_40_11_50&products_id=500&zenid=a0fd71cc2d2b388c89b0cc68fe5c3bda

What I might actually do in this case, is run a Cat5 from the gazebo to each camera, power them from the gazebo, and simply splice the Cat5 runs together in the gazebo as well.

 

For example: my standard wiring scheme for this is blue pair for video (blue for +, blue-white for -), orange pair for power + or "hot", green pair for power ground or "neutral", and brown pair left for a spare. So figure for the gazebo-house run, you assign blue for camera 1, orange for camera 2, green for camera 3, and brown for audio... the blue pair running to camera 1 would then connect in the gazebo to the blue pair on the house run; blue pair to camera 2 would connect to the orange pair on the house run; blue pair for camera 3 would connect to the green pair.

I'm a little confused. In your example where would the video balun go? Wouldn't I need to use the existing rg59 to go from the cameras to the balun?

I've done a fair amount of reading here on what I need to do to switch over to using baluns with my existing analog cameras. My application uses three cameras located on a pond about 500 feet from my house. Two of the cameras (in wood duck boxes) have built-in microphones. Last year I installed a conduit for future wiring to a covered gazebo that is located between the house and the three cameras. My plan would be to run a Cat5 cable to the gazebo, and use a balun such as this at the gazebo and at the house.

http://www.active-vision.com/4-Camera-Video-Balun-p/abl-4p04-c.htm

I assume I could connect three video signals plus one audio to one balun and then run the Cat5 to the house, where I would separate the signals with another balun

The three cameras would be connected to the balun in the gazebo using RG59 runs of a few feet to as much as 200 feet.

Does this look like a plan?

Also, since the gazebo is covered and has electrical power, I assume I could provide the 12 volt supplies from there. Or I understand I could use half the wires in a second Cat5 cable to provide the power supply and still have two spare pairs. Is that correct?

These are examples of the videos I am trying to catch:

Thanks,

Charles

I need to replace the connectors on the Siamese cable on my Clover OC950 camera. Guess I got them with the lawn mower. The cable has red, yellow, and white small shielded wires. Can I assume that the colors are the same as the plugs on my other cables (red power, yellow video, and white audio)? And if the red is power, can I assume that Red is positive, and the shield is negative?

Thanks,

Charles