hardwired

The NSM5's are really only designed to talk to other 5GHz gear in the Ubiquiti product line, you might be able to get it to talk properly to other standard 802.11 equipment like the Ipad/Iphones if they support the 5GHz band, by turning off the "Airmax" options in the settings, and using 20MHz bandwidth settings. However, even if you get them to connect, they probably will not work at those distances. The problem is not the Nanostation, it can work fine at those distances, and further, but the Ipad, etc. does not have the output power or antenna gain to reach back to the Nanostation effectively. Your best setup would be to have another NanostationM5 at the receiving side, tied to a 2.4GHz access point (a Ubiquiti PicoStationM2HP would work well, configured with Airmax off, and 20MHz channel bandwidth, to be compatible with standard consumer wireless gear). This will require having power at the receiving side, but a cigarette lighter connection could work to power them if you have a vehicle there, or a small rechargeable battery. You might be able to get a NanostationM2 2.4 GHz unit to talk directly to the Ipad at that distance, but I really doubt it.

Is there a professional site for access control, CCTV, nurse call, burg and fire Where they have never heard of Dahphooey? I'v been looking for a site like that for four years. I find them but the last post was six months ago. Sheeesh! Or this one which has Made in China stamped on it's butt. You aren't likely to find a forum solely for professionals, because people who do this day in and day out, and make their living at it, are not as likely to give out information freely. Myself as an example, I cut my teeth in the burglar alarm market over 25 years ago, and have been doing CCTV and access for over 15 years. I don't mind giving out some information when I can, but I'm probably not going to give out information that could be used for a competitive edge against me, and I'm not going to feel obligated to answer every question here. What you will find most of here is do-it-yourselfers that are looking to install a system (of whatever type), that will meet their goals at a minimal cost, and are willing to accept some compromises in functionality or durability. Dahua, and other similar products, fill that niche market. There's a reasonable number of members on this site who are full time installers, and who contribute on a regular basis. The products that they are likely to recommend to a customer will likely be a different mix than the economy products often referred to here, because we have to warranty and maintain them for extended periods, and often in high security environments. That demands a different mix of products, usually at prices that are less appealing for the DIYers.

That device is 24VDC to 12VDC. Typical camera power supplies are either 12VDC or 24VAC. To convert 24VAC to 12VDC, use any of the Altronix VB/VR products except the VR3T. http://www.altronix.com/products/index.php# - click on "Power Conversion Modules". VR1- Converts 24VAC or 24VDC to a 12VDC @ 1 amp. Modular Connector/Cable Assembly. VR1T- Converts 24VAC or 24VDC to a 12VDC @ 1 amp. Screw Terminals. VR2T- Converts 24VAC or 24VDC to a 12VDC @ .5 amp. Screw Terminals. VR5T- Converts 24VAC or 24VDC to a 12VDC @ 3A. Oops, sorry, picked the wrong one out of the list. I've used the VR5T in quite a few instances.

A 60x zoom lens is going to average over $10,000 USD- no camera or PTZ, just the lens. Here's a couple of 60X models-http://computarganz.com/product_view.cfm?product_id=874 http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/optical_devices/security/zoom-lenses/long-range/d60x125r3de-v41/

Same functionality, little easier package- http://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=VR3T

Puretech has that. http://www.puretechsystems.com/index.html Not cheap....

For troubleshooting, you could get a USB-RS422/485 adapter for a laptop or PC, and something like 232Analyzer http://www.commfront.com/RS232_Examples/CCTV/Pelco_D_Pelco_P_Examples_Tutorial.HTM. By connecting to the camera, you should be able to control it with this setup, if the camera is working properly. By connecting the adapter to the DVR and running a program such as Hyperterminal or Putty, you should be able to see the data output from the DVR. There are also some little IR remote control boxes for PTZ control available on Fleabay for about $40 or so, you could use one of them to test controlling the PTZ instead of the DVR, and see if that works.

If you are going to use the Nanostations, their power consumption is between 5.5 (Nanostation Loco series), and 8 watts (standard Nanostation M2/M5). http://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/nanostationm/nsm_ds_web.pdf The Nanostations will run fine at 12 volts, and that's probably a better choice. With a 24 Volt system, if the voltage goes even to 25 Volts (which it will while charging), the Nanostations will be damaged. 24 Volts is the absolute upper limit, the power supplies they provide are well regulated to not rise over 24 Volts. I just put together a Nanostation and IP camera combination using this unit- http://tyconpower.com/products/remotepro_systems/rpst1212-100-85.html Possibly slightly oversized, but that site cannot afford downtime.

Give the erratic frame rate of the image, but not the video itself, I would guess that this was the output from a tape based, multiplexed analog system, then recorded to digital format from that monitor output via a USB or similar video capture device. The big unanswered question is why the person recording the video did not select a single image for display before recording it, this would have significantly increased the resolution of the captured event (and, apparently, you have to decide whether that would help or harm the case).

The biggest issue with Milestone is that by default, the client tries to display full resolution, full frame rate images, even in split screen modes where a lower resolution setting is not noticeable, and uses a much lower amount of processing power. In the smart client, go to the setup tab, and select the cameras, and try setting the resolution down from full to high or super high. The difference isn't usually noticeable in the split screen, and you'll have much better performance.

It may be fine, but watch for erratic operation of the cameras, especially in lower temperatures when internal heaters may kick on. If you get a chance, you may want to test the voltage at the camera end (make sure and do this with the camera still connected and operating). Usual tolerances for cameras is about +-10%, so some variation is okay. If it is excessively low, you may need to change to either a heavier wire gauge, or a transformer that has a 28 Volt output to help compensate for cable losses.

Sounds like that should work fine. One other thing that can cause excessive current draw is undersized wiring to the cameras, have you looked at any calculations for wire size versus distance? Pelco has an online calculator here- http://www.pelco.com/sites/global/en/sales-and-support/downloads-and-tools/tools/wire.page

Each camera needs a unique channel address (usually is set to match the camera number input on the DVR), only the baud rate and protocol should match the DVR settings. See page 4 of the manual here, http://qsee.custhelp.com/ci/fattach/get/97735/1353530960/redirect/1/session/L2F2LzEvdGltZS8xMzU1MTkwNTkyL3NpZC9nUjFoaXJkbA==/filename/QD6513Z%20QD6505P%20Camera%20Manual_web.pdf

Your power supply is very undersized. I'm not sure about the Sensormatic PTZ's, but the Pelco units can draw up to 3 Amps each, especially outdoor models with heaters. The supply that Pelco offers for 16 cameras is rated at 20 Amps- http://www.pelco.com/sites/global/en/products/video-transmission/range-presentation.page?p_function_id=10513&p_family_id=10256&p_range_id=2982

You need to set a different, individual address on each new camera (if there are already 5 cameras that are called up by the keyboard as #1-5, address the new ones as #6 and up). If you can look at one of the existing cameras, you will see two sets of DIP switches, one will have the protocol and baud rate settings (match these on the new cameras), and the address settings (these will be where you give the new cameras an individual address setting).

I would suggest that type of lens/camera setup is inappropriate for that type of application: That type of lens spreads the field of view so wide that obtaining useful detail will be difficult (even with a wide view of a vehicle, you will still be limited by line of sight to a particular side of the vehicle). A few well positioned standard cameras (even if you need a few more at a narrower angle) should do what you want, at less cost.

Applications-Utilities-Terminal gives you telnet,SSH, etc. See http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Telnet-on-Mac-OS-X.

I agree, it doesn't seem to be a ONVIF vulnerability, but rather just a problem with that particular line of cameras- and it's not the first, see http://console-cowboys.blogspot.com/2012/01/trendnet-cameras-i-always-feel-like.html for another example. Also, probably won't be the last, either- I'm fairly certain most cameras and VMS'es aren't tested for vulnerabilities the way most mass-market apps and devices are..... Thanks for the heads up, though.

You bought a broken one. Try to get your money back. Don't bother with Arecont's service, they are unique in the industry (and not in a good way) for charging you for a camera you send in for service, whether they fix it or not.

The information I found seems to indicate that it is ONVIF compliant, so there are a few different software packages that might work. I couldn't find any information on whether it is ONVIF 1.x or 2.0 compliant. ONVIF only introduced motion detection in 2.0, so if you want motion detection recording in lower versions, you need to use software that supports server-side motion detection (Milestone does), they have a free version (Go) that you could test it with.

Here's Securitron's answer for mounting maglocks on glass doors, might be worth looking at: http://www.securitron.com/en/site/securitron/Products/Electromagnetic-Locks-and-Accessories/Magnalock-Brackets-and-Accessories/HEB-3G-GDB-AKG-Header-Extension-Bracket-Glass-Door-Bracket-and-Adhesive-Kit/ I used it on a door about four years ago, it's still up so far....

The Ubiquiti AirFiber 24GHz unit will also allow 700Mbps full duplex throughput on each link, so you should be able to run at least 100 cameras per pole... If the OP is not in a severely congested area, he could at least test the water with a pair of NanoStation M5's, they'll run under $200 USD for a pair. In other bands, Ubiquiti also makes their NanoStations in a 3.65GHz licensed band, as well as the PowerBridge line in 3.65 and 10GHz bands, along with the unlicensed band stuff.

I agree that sets of licensed links would be the best choice, but a $10,000+ USD per link cost is often out of people's budget. (If you know of some good, cheap backhaul gear, please let me know!). Ubiquiti has just come out with a 24GHz link for about $2000 USD per link, but availability is still pretty limited. You will also have the problems of much higher size, power consumption, and the need for much higher mounting stability at those frequencies. The Ubiquiti 5GHz gear now has the capability of automatic frequency switching, which can help in crowded environments.

If you go over the parapet with cable, you might look into some metal raceway that could look more like building trim material (even if it's not watertight, you can always use direct burial jacketed cable inside it), regular flex is going to be pretty ugly in that application. Something like that, you might even see if you could tuck direct burial CAT5 into the glass seams or trim, without using conduit at all.

Here is a link to Ubiquiti resellers in Africa: http://www.ubnt.com/purchase/africa. I've also used quite a bit of Mikrotik equipment, and had it work well, but I don't usually recommend it first to people due to the difficulty of programming it for first-time users. If you or one of your staff have a pretty high level of experience with wireless gear, it could be a good choice. One of the advantages of Ubiquiti gear is that it has a built in spectrum analyzer feature that makes finding usable frequencies much easier. Ilk was actually recommending against consumer band, unlicensed gear such as this, but in my opinion, the cost and complexity of licensed frequency links usually only make sense in extremely high end jobs. The biggest source of interference in the 5GHz band is usually wireless Internet service providers, you may want to talk to the ones in your area to coordinate channel usage to avoid interfering with each other (and you may want to use one of them for Internet service, as well). Your solar calculations seem fairly reasonable, keep in mind the wireless link will run about 10 Watts or so, plus the camera load. You may want to talk to a solar equipment manufacturer for their recommendations.