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ak357

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Posts posted by ak357


  1. 16 hours ago, rubberducky said:

    I am attempting to find what graphics card is used by Avigilon in their NVR4 Premium servers.  If anyone has one or any information on this I'd appreciate it.  I've looked at the docs on their site and can't find it.

     

    Thanks in advance!

    Nvidia

    2 Gig card that all u need


  2. 3 hours ago, cctvman1379 said:

    From reading the post I would say a minimum 650 va ups for around 10 minutes gold on short minor outage with power restore quickly if you could go bigger in various then get the largest you could afford for the best possible run time in power outage our CCTV is 16 cameras on a hd DVR the power supply and DVR run about 140 watts and our ups only protects the DVR from sudden crashing or shutdown to give time to shut down unit mines gives 10 minutes at 650va unit but the wattage is 90 watts that is drawn from the ups output 

    Agree 100%

    the more the better


  3. On 2/7/2019 at 9:22 AM, Cortian said:

    There are two ways to go about this: Find the output current rating on the power supply (I assume the Lorex NVR powers the cameras?) and multiply that by its output voltage.  That will give you its approximate max wattage.  UPS' are rated in VA (volt-amps), but it'll be close enough.  The other way is to actually measure the current draw on the AC side using a true RMS ammeter.  (That's the best way.)  Then multiply the measured current draw times the line voltage.

    Next you have to determine whether the point is to protect your surveillance system and allow it to survive short-term outages, or to have it stay up for an extended time when there's an outage.

    (I note you list a "12V 10" PSU.  If that's 12V at 10A, which would probably be about right for an 8-camera system [assuming about 15W/camera], then your want a minimum 120VA UPS.  Depending upon the design, that may give you anywhere from 5-10 minutes of uptime [SWAG]).

    To a degree you can extend uptime by going with a higher-than-recommend-VA UPS, but there are diminishing returns with each bump in VA capacity.  Reason is reduced efficiencies as UPS VA capacity goes up.  For truly extended runtime you need an "extended runtime" UPS.  They don't have greater VA capacity, but more battery.  (They also take longer to recover because there's more battery capacity to charge back up.  There ain't no free lunches.)

    E.g.: With a 120W load, a 120VA UPS may give you about 5-10 minutes of uptime, but a 360VA UPS won't necessarily give you 15-30 minutes.  In fact: My old power-hog Dell 1600SC server had a 700VA APC SmartUPS on it.  The computer + peripherals drew about 200W.  The UPS had a runtime of only fifteen minutes with brand new batteries.

    Speaking of batteries: Make sure to buy a UPS with user-replaceable batteries.  They have about a three-year lifespan.  Also: Get in the habit of doing run-time tests about every quarter or so, to extend battery life.

    The UPS manufacturer should have a chart listing estimated run times for each of their UPS' vs. expected loads.

    5

    Why would u bother to recommend such small UPS?

    120VA is way too small


  4. 41 minutes ago, Cortian said:

    Re: WiFi: I was referring to my previous reply. I kinda sorta know what WiFi is ;)

    Instead use dedicated 5GHz WiFi point-to-point devices, such as a pair of Ubiquiti NanoStation M5's.

    11 hours ago, Cortian said:

     

    If you're going to try WiFi, DO NOT attempt to simply use a WiFi bridge talking to the typical home/residential/consumer WiFi router.  That will almost certainly result in disappointment.  Instead use dedicated 5GHz WiFi point-to-point devices, such as a pair of Ubiquiti NanoStation M5's

     
     
    1

     


  5. 2 hours ago, Cortian said:

    That is not necessarily critical.

    Unfortunately, I'm going to have to tell you how to build a watch so you'll understand what I'm telling you when I tell you the time :)

    Residential power in the U.S. is nearly invariably what's called "split phase."  240VAC (nominal) single-phase power from a center-tapped transformer arrives at your distribution (aka: "breaker") panel.  One side of that goes to one side of the panel, the other to the other side.  The breaker boxes are designed such that every other breaker on each side is on the same side of the split phase.  Let's call them "L1" and "L2".  (Because that's how they're actually labelled ;).)

    Between L1 or L2 and neutral is 120VAC.  Between L1 and L2 is 240VAC.  120VAC breakers connect only to L1 or L2, and neutral is used for the "return."  240VAC breakers connect to both L1 and L2.  (Either one could be said to be the supply or return. Supply/return really doesn't apply to L1/L2.)

    Where powerline Ethernet adaptors (and a lot of powerline home automation gear, such as X10) run into trouble is when one node is on L1/neutral and the other is on L2/neutral.  The signals often don't make it across very well.

    With that, now, perhaps, you'll understand this: That your garage has or will have it's own breaker panel isn't quite as critical as which side of the split phase power each adaptor ends-up on.

    And, with this and my explanation of how a WiFi bridge might work for you, now perhaps you'll understand why I earlier wrote that either WiFi or powerline will work better, depending upon the particular site.

    3

    "And, with this and my explanation of how a WiFi bridge might work for you"

    It is not really WiFi 

     


  6. I assume you probably have found an answer by now, but I stumbled across your old post while looking for some Zosi DVR related stuff on here just now.

     

    One option is to buy a device similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Vonets-VAP11G-300-Wireless-Multi-Functional-Amplifier/dp/B014SK2H6W (note, I've not used this and can't vouch for it's ability to work well)

     

    Another (probably better) option would be to grab an old wireless router from Goodwill (or if you got a box o' old tech junk laying around) and throw DD-WRT or Tomato firmware on it and set it up to be a wireless repeater. It would connect to your main AP and provide network access to anything plugged into it.

     

    I think the wireless bridge would be the better name


  7. If you go with IP PoE, and you're going to bury the cable, make sure you buy cable rated for burial and make sure you remember where it is so you don't later accidentally go cutting through it. Technically speaking: You cannot splice UTP cable.

     

    Cat5e cable will suffice, but the cost difference for Cat6 is so little, these days, that I'd go with that if you can.

    Why do u suggest Cat6 for cameras runs?


  8. If you go with IP PoE, and you're going to bury the cable, make sure you buy cable rated for burial and make sure you remember where it is so you don't later accidentally go cutting through it. Technically speaking: You cannot splice UTP cable.

     

    Cat5e cable will suffice, but the cost difference for Cat6 is so little, these days, that I'd go with that if you can.

    Why would u suggest Cat6 for cameras runs?


  9. Hello,

     

    I'm looking for a CCTV system to use outdoors on a farm. I need 4 cameras ideally, and they need to be wireless. I can get power to each camera easily enough, but networking them with wires isn't really going to be feasible. Is there a solution out there which contains a built-in wireless repeater function within the cameras themselves? If that's not viable, can anyone recommend a simple/robust wireless repeater system that I could use alongside a CCTV system (also happy to get recommendations on the CCTV itself).

     

    I don't have a specific budget in mind, but I was hoping to spend less than £400.

     

    Thanks!

     

    What distance are we talking about?

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