mike_va

I tried a logitech on VitaminD. While it "works", my Axis P1344 produces a MUCH better picture (granted it is not $50 or whatever). Strong backlighting was a bad joke on the logitech. I also felt the logitech had a poor depth of field. And no low light capability. Anyway interesting experiment and returned. Axis cameras are so much more flexible and can do much more. There are inexpensive network cameras out there like Ubiquiti and Panasonic ($50-100), USB is pretty limiting. Good luck.

Raytec has some models that go wider. 30deg though is a pretty good compromise, depends what you are trying to do. The distance falls off greatly with increasing angle, they have some useful distance charts. You can get just as much light if not more with a PAR CFL, unless you really want IR.

I do a variant on both, using VitaminD analytics (greatly cuts down on false hits) you can get it to almost none - and those I get an email for based on rules (in area, entering etc). Distinguishes people vs objects pretty well. Use Axis Camera Station to record continuously. You could always start out with Milestone Go which is free (but limited to a week). But for most that is an expensive option, however it's nice knowing what is going on and I don't have the time or patience to review footage. Sometimes you can find a good deal on used Axis encoders, I got a rack of 241S for $300. 241Q sometimes show up not too expensive ~$200 used, and Avigilon makes one new that is a bit more than that which might work (VitaminD works best with MJPEG). One of the nice things with that is you can get weeks if not over a month of clips on a small drive, depending on the number of cameras. You could also play with the free version of VitaminD and just hook it up to a USB web cam.

More free advice (family curse)... If you don't mind B&W you could also try some night vision material (passes only IR), you can get pieces cut on ebay. I think 12x12 is $25. Looks black from the outside, does not hurt the sensitivity. I tried some smoked plexi, this is much better. During the day the sun provides more than enough IR. As long as your night lighting has some IR (i.e. not LED or CFL) this works very well at night too.

Default settings are pretty good. Sometimes I turn down the AGC a bit (I think I usually end up around 15), reduces the noise in the picture. Put default shutter at 1-250s, it will still do sense up at night but during the day does a better job with fast moving whatever. Have not noticed a difference with BLC (back light compensation) affecting things at night. The one spot where I have strong backlighting I use a Panasonic 484 WDR, this does a better job. The main thing is actually walk testing your setup, and seeing if you can get a good enough picture for your purposes. If the driveway is 2 cars wide you may want more than one camera. If you have enough light I'd consider leaving it in color - easier to identify in color plus don't lose that time that the camera switches over. If you're using the camera for identification 2x senseup is the max I'd use, using a fast lens f1.0 will also help you keep this at 2x (1-30s) or 1x (1-60s). The ideal is no senseup and color if you have enough light. Hope this helps.

Yes, I did not wear a wrist strap thirty years ago but things have changed. Further, damage can go undetected initially and show up later. The real problem today is that they have gotten so small - very little leakage inductance and die features have gotten incredibly small. IC's already installed are less susceptible. A quick search on google images shows some examples for the curious... Sure you can get away with it, however try installing a MOSFET sometime without any ESD protection as an experiment...

A battery powered iron is not going to be grounded, I would not use that for CMOS. CMOS (complementary MOS) work with a really thin oxide layer for the gate, doesn't take much to break that down. While the inputs usually have protection diodes I would not risk it (i.e. they need something to conduct to, which if your installing is not there). The problem with ESD is that it can cause latent damage which only becomes apparent later. Also good practice to use a wrist strap and dissipative mat. Also get a temp controlled iron or gun, irons are a lot easier to use on tiny parts. Get a weller. Guns are usually for bigger things that suck up heat.

I tried this a while back and greatly preferred Milestone...

I thought it was pretty slick and easy to set up (aside from my rant above), but if you're doing a real install (I am a hobbyist) I would stick with something that has been around and stood the test of time. Same reason our IT dept at work is always a version or two behind on windows - the latest in software is not something I would want my reputation based on, people want stuff that works correctly. I'm not aware of other software that could access the clips, aside from using the camera page - which no one is going to want to do. Never did get the 4:3 bug worked out on the P3346, locked up my camera hard a few times and said that's enough of that. Eventually this will be killer for hobbyists and small business, it is that easy. No computer to record on, no VMS licenses to pay for. Now that it sounds like they have some real low light cameras coming out Q1602 and new variants of the P3344 etc, things should start to get interesting.

Came downstairs and my P1344's were blinking (yes the big orange LED's on them). Had been playing around with ACC, but nothing was set to record. Powered on/off checked settings etc. However, somehow the NAS had frozen (first time in two years of continuous use). AND Turns out Axis sets a rule, to blink if the NAS is not there... As their brochure says "Cutting-edge digital surveillance has never been this easy" Well, it might be a tad easier if they had someone write a @#@%@$ manual. They used to know how to write manuals too. OK, done venting. My bad really for playing around with new software...I know better. I should've just stopped when it froze up my P3346 a few days ago. And I should just put black tape over that monster LED...always comes ON when you reapply power even if it is set to OFF.

Newegg just had the TRENDnet TPE-S44 Switch - 8 ports (4 poe) for $40 shipped.

Check out CNB VCM24VF, or WCM20VF in a bullet. These will allow you to zoom in more than a costco unit. With the WCM I disconnect the internal IR. The other trick is making sure you have enough light out there.

both, for example:

Thanks in advance. Wouldn't that make it less sensitive?

Thank you

I was just playing with the Axis Companion a few days ago. Super easy to set up, had a few cameras going to a NAS in under a minute or two. Only works with certain of their cameras, but seemed to work pretty well. Maybe still a little buggy though, when I changed the setting for the P3346 from 16:9 to 4:3 it froze up the camera repeatedly and I had to unplug to get it responding again. Worked fine with P1344 also. Does audio flawlessly over the viewer. I just wanted to try it, as it seemed kind of neat or as a possible backup to Axis Camera Station. I could see the appeal though, as one would not need a computer for recording (and it is free). I have no experience with Mobotix, did not like to be tied to their format to get a decent framerate (aside from the cameras being pretty ugly for domestic use).

Bosch e.g. LTC0495 do video iris (or DC) also, I have a few of these around the house that do a good job.

Try a used Bosch LTC0355 ebay 5-10 dollars, get a DVR. Skip IP at that price point.

I use a Synology 211J to capture motion on one camera (Panasonic 502), in addition to other VMS. Playback is a hassle and slow, only useful for capture and having stuff archived. Has been reliable though in this simple situation. Can't believe what they try to get for the licenses, there is better out there...

Yep, not a bad pic but pretty wide so not a lot of pixels/ft. There's a lot of good info out there. Typical is 40 for identification, 80 is a good pic though and what I shoot for around the house. You can do it with MP cameras, or have one analog zoomed in to get that shot (especially useful if there is a spot someone always walks through) and one for overview.

nice post, thanks

post some pics as you make progress

That sounds like it makes sense, but I saw a 8-80mm lens for example that had one. I can't understand why they would want to give up the sensitivity at night. It was IR corrected so meant to be used day night.

Wow...that is really bad...

Exposure set a window using "defined" then select "edit". You can draw a window on whatever you want the exposure set on.