shockwave199

I believe redundancy is when you have more than one hard drive in the unit, such as a raid setup. Leave the setting unchecked. If you're having a problem with motion recording kicking in late, try increasing the sensitivity setting. I also set post record to 10 seconds. If you still have problems, try increasing prerecorded a little higher if you can. Interval probably has something to do with email frequency, if you set up email notification for motion events. Or it could mean snapshot interval if you've enabled snapshots- still pictures. I'm not sure though. Every system terms things a little different. Probably no harm done keeping it at 1 second. Video blind can be set to send email notification or set off an alarm. It means the Dvr will sense if the camera has been sray painted or covered over in a robbery. It can give false alarms though if it's an exterior camera in heavy rain or fog, so it's not always the best idea to enable that for exterior cameras, or interior ones with no ir for night vision. Video loss is when the video signal drops out completely, such as a cable being cut. That can be good to enable. Those settings need to be used in conjunction with notifications or an alarm, or even to start other channels recording. Otherwise having them enabled doesn't do much. Set each channel at the maximum resolution and bit rate you can, usually dictated by the frame per second you choose. If it means keeping each channel at 7.5fps to get D1 for every channel, do so. If your unit can do more fps for each channel at D1, go for it. Always record at the highest settings the unit offers. If it means putting in a higher capacity hard drive to archive more time, than do it. If your unit has sub stream, that can be set at lower resolutions for remote viewing or cell phone app viewing. But main stream, keep high. Display resolution will depend on the monitor you use. It has nothing to do with channel encode settings. I'm not sure what playback large means. When in doubt with system settings, leave them at default - don't change what they're set on. And, welcome to the forum. Hope some of that helps.

The pictures on this page of the thread are of dahua 1.3 bullets and impressed me. So in general, can an ip camera have strong and decent spread of ir with wide shots? Yes. You want insanely great, look to the ptz offerings. Costly, but superior ir performance. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11322&start=885

I only have experience with my one outdoor ptz, but the couple of times it got erratic behavior it was due to a bad power supply, not the camera. Also there was one time where the camera would go into a spin by itself sporadically. A restart of the Dvr cleared that and I hasn't happened again. But aside from any schedule behavior, look to power issues first.

From what I can remember, the foam ring build was improved so IR reflection wasn't a problem any longer.

Here's an extensive article http://www.networkcameracritic.com/?p=2177

The update works flawless on my Android tablet. Push is great, but the app overall got quite an amazing update. Impressive!

I also have this problem on my Android tablet. Can't get push notifications. Any word on this?

Oh right you have tplink. That's fine. Set up for No-ip in that and that part should be fine. Check port 80 at canyouseeme and make sure it's open. Many isp's block that port. If so, check the Dvr and see if it has other port options to choose for port 80, or if it allows you to manually choose any one you want. If so, choose 88 or 89, etc. Make sure what ever you choose, you also forward that port in the router too. But in your router, there must be a choice in the list for No-ip. That must be set as part of using No-ip.

If your router doesn't have No-ip in the list, you can't use No-ip. You'll have to use dyndns and set up an account there. A free account there is a total hassle. They don't really want you to have a free account, so they make you work for it. Check the options in the dvr. If No-ip is in the list you can put the info in it and the dvr will be the updater instead of the router. Last resort if you want your free No-ip account, buy a new router and make sure it supports No-ip. Most new ones do.

You don't need to elaborately link the systems. They can be separate systems but monitored jointly in one software application for both. For instance, Dahua would be PSS software. All 32 channels would be open within that software. Unless the homes are elaborate or need interior and exterior cameras, you could possibly be okay with 8 channel systems and save money there.

Two way audio is for actual back and forth talking, but that signal doesn't get recorded. Unlike analog Dvr's, nvr's can only encode sound to picture through an audio capable camera. As far as good, better, best, I've only had experience with dahua and it's great for surveillance purposes, but not for top quality hi-fi sound.

For every drv there is someone who is having trouble with setting up email notification. On an openeye dvr at work it took me days of head scratching until I finally used my isp email info. Now I use only that with no trouble. Another dvr won't guarantee you won't have trouble, sorry to say. If you can eventually get it figured out, never forget that info you plug in. Good luck.

HD systems are better than analog. For a new install you definitely want to install an IP/megapixel system. The install will be easier too. Not much has been said or reviewed on the avertx systems. They may be great, but it's not easy to know. If you're at Costco, consider Swann. You'll have a lot more people here in the know about Swann systems and they are reported to be good systems. If you're fine with doing the installation yourself, say bye to the place that wants to sell you their analog system. Analog can work, but you're much better off with HD right from the start.

I have q-see 400tvl cmos non TDN cameras sitting in a box and let me tell you, they look suck. My 525 TVL's look better. I know it's not the tvl. I guess I got off the topic a bit. I'll only suggest that if you have a clearly superior camera spec wise compared to a lesser one and the superior one happens to be a 700tvl, it's gonna look better than the piece of crap, resolution be damned, just because the other components are better and the picture 'looks' the better for it.

Internet provider address specifically. I have optimum cable, so I use my optonline address. If your ISP address can't get it done, it's a problem in the dvr. Maybe even a firmware update along the way addressed it. You'll have to find out. Good luck. Email ain't easy sometimes, I know. Hope it works out.

However, if you're choosing between an old 480tvl cmos camera, which most likely doesn't even include TDN, and a 650tvl CCD effio camera with TDN, you'll for sure see a difference between those two cameras. TVL number aside, avoid cheap old cameras which usually are of the 400 to 480 tvl variety. They're cheap for a reason.

Actually there are so many people that can't get Gmail to work that I would not recommend it, personally. Always use your ISP email address. If you didn't create an email account with your Internet service provider, do so. Then Google their email port or ask them for the details and plug that in the Dvr for the sender. For the receiver, use any address you want.

It's hard to say, but as it was mentioned above, all else fails try doing no-ip from the router itself. Maybe you'll have more luck.

I'm not sure how you have this set up so I could be wrong, but with any dvr I usually have DHCP on only once, for the router to initially assign an address to the dvr. Once that's done, I put it to static and disable DHCP. Then the port forwarding in the router is associated with the dvr's static address from that point forward. It may be that since you have auto and DHCP enabled, the address is changing all the time and therefore causing you the problems.

Great to hear! You could try physically tilting the camera up a couple tics on your home position and see if it holds that position when you recall the home position from other presets. I do that with my camera so I get more upward zoom, in fact it stays level zoomed in. It's way better with more tilt flexibility. The thing is though, you'll have to redo your presets to accommodate the initial manual adjustment upwards to your home position. But if it holds it's awesome and the only time you'll have to redo it is if you have a power loss. So when you do it, try to keep track of how much you moved the camera up so you can get the same spot again if you have to redo it. Give it a try.

Well you'll get an idea of the condition of the coax when you fix a couple channels. I do agree though, start completely new with all your own gear. That way your not chasing down problems you didn't even create. SDI could be a good option but it would be better if YOU did the analog install so you could be confident about the coax that's in place. Good luck.

You probably won't have glare but if you plan on using motion recording, you'll be triggering it with bugs, bugs, and more bugs. Other than that, exterior light usually helps wake up a camera image. Just try and avoid putting right at a flood light fixture if you want motion recording. If you're recording full time, no worries.

Wide overview shots are okay to include in your setup, but whenever possible frame a shot at a definitive choke point. Meaning, a tight shot of an area that anyone who is walking there must walk through. Your front door camera can be considered a choke point- anyone coming up to your door must be directly in front of that camera which gives you a good shot. But as you see, the rest of the image does very little in terms of ID. It can give other useful information, such as what direction they came from and which direction they left from. That information can lead to a positive ID from other surveillance systems. But for your own chance at a positive ID shot, you'll need to cover smaller choke point areas. Keep that in mind when planning and aiming.

Now that is news to me. I always thought you had to enable sub stream to watch playback.

Guess I'm spoiled by every analog Dvr I've used and dahua dedicated nvr/Dvr. C+M, with markers along the playback timeline. I never knew that could not be a standard setting and behavior. Huh. Oh, there is one unit I use that relies on smart search only - a Bosch divar, which frankly sucks altogether. Smart search in the thing would be fine, but it'll only allow 1 hour intervals at a time. Good grief, talk about tedious.