Owain

you could adapt this PCB

http://www.bigclive.com/flud.htm

just put in the LEDs you need to make the outline of the digits. Maybe poke them through a layer of black plastic to provide a background to improve the contrast

All such devices are of metal.

unless it's optical fibre feeding the image to a remote sensor.

That camera should do a time stamp and text caption overlay - accessed through its setup menus.

A logo will be more difficult; you'd have to decode the digital image stream, overlay, then re-encode the image stream.

If you are only uploading periodic static images (jpgs) then a scriptable image editor eg GIMP should be able to handle it, running on the webserver.

Use multipair telephone or data cable intended for direct burial and use a balun on the video (and if you need to, audio) pair(s). Double or triple up remaining pairs for power to each camera.

Rather than a siren, install voice speakers and use audio challenge to shout at intruders.

This lets them know the system *is* working, they *are* being watched, and the cops *are* on their way.

In the UK there is the Secured By Design initiative, including advice for architects and developers:

http://www.securedbydesign.com/professionals/index.aspx

which links to the Design Against Crime Research Centre

http://www.designagainstcrime.com/

that's what happens when you buy electronic stuff from ebay.

the 15 V from the solar charge controller is probably intended for charging batteries

Even simpler is to forget the computer and smartphone stuff - which WILL require your CCTV system to be connected to the internet - and provide hardwired access to a composite video output from the DVR, either by modulating the video and injecting it into the communal TV distribution system, or for only 6 apartments use a 6-output video distribution amplifier and just run cables.

However after the novelty wears off I doubt tenants will spend much time watching the screens. I'd concentrate on capturing evidential-quality video that can be retrieved after an event is reported.

Any sheet metal fabricator (see Yellow Pages or equivalent) should be able to cut, fold and weld a box up, fit a hinged door and a cam lock, drill or punch ventilation and cable entry holes, etc.

You can use cameras with on-board storage so you only do live viewing at low resolution, and download high res clips of historic events as needed.

The problem may not be with the DVR, but with the router or internet connection (at either end) which makes it difficult for someone to set it up in advance.

Problem: Once the GUI has been accessed you can view live video etc from the cameras you have plugged in. However, Im getting a 'netscape plugin is out of date or not installed' message, and i am not able to view cameras.

You could try downloading the latest version of the software from the DM website rather than using the older version on the DVR hard drive. However these are quite old units now and the internet viewing isn't comparable to modern systems IMHO.

I like a nice HUNGRY Giant Schnauzer, they are very territorial and posessive of their owner's personal posessions

 

You wanna mess with this guy? Go ahead....

 

Razor is a wee cutie

I want to use entry level cameras from ebay

That may be responsible for some of the noise.

Many consumer DVRs have USB mouse control, so you could use a USB hub with the required number of outputs and extend USB to the desired locations using active USB cables or USB-over-Cat n extenders.

Depends on whether your DVR will cope with multiple mice, and of course this will not allow separate locations to see/do different actions simultaneously.

To avoid running HDMI through the house, if the DVR has a composite/analogue video output you could modulate that and run it through the aerial wiring. However that may not cope with high enough resolution to allow mouse control.

Other option is RS 485 with multiple PTZ keyboard controllers and a DVR that supports that.

Some Axis cameras have a special 'corridor format' which may be useful for some of your locations.

http://www.axis.com/products/video/about_networkvideo/corridor_format.htm

A big issue is security; if possible keep the cameras completely off the same physical network used by pupils. You don't want your supposedly secure CCTV footage ending up on websites.

There is a single camera set up connected to 3 monitors... 1 of the monitors broke (it was a specific security monitor with a bnc input and bnc output)... it was replaced with a regular TV monitor. We used a bnc female to male rca adapter and now the input (video input) works fine and shows the video camera content on the tv monitor. The other 2 monitors however, still do not work. I'm not an expert on the matter.. and cannot seem to figure out which output to use on the TV monitor. It has your typical brand new TV input and outputs. The other 2 monitors are small 9 inch security monitors with 4 BNC input and outputs.. VGA and S-video capability.

 

Any ideas on why it wouldn't be working?.. or what output to use for the tv monitor?

 

Thanks in advance

The TV monitor is unlikely to have a proper through video output. Use a 2-output video splitter to split the output from the camera to (a) the TV and (b) the two security monitors in loop through with the last monitor set to terminal.

That power supply's rough. The incoming mains cable should be loomed or otherwise restrained so if the wire breaks at the terminal strip the live wire can't float about and contact anything. The terminal strip should be one with touch-safe terminals. If fuse FS1 is on the mains side of the transformer it should also be one with touch-safe terminals. There should be a flying lead from the earth terminal to the removable cover. so the cover earth doesn't rely on fixing screws.

The low voltage wiring some of the wires have been wrapped round the screws in the wrong direction so tightening the screw loosens the wire. The wires should be loomed neatly and clamped on entry to the box. The hole in the box should be grommeted.

I think you have an undiscovered joint somewhere between two types of wire. The two hook terminals are probably power and I wonder if they're 24Vdc for a heater in the bracket. Possibly the camera has onboard step-down to 12Vdc.

The thin black and white should be video and video ground, but which way round I don't know.

do you have the camera that was there before? and how was it connected? what's at the other end of the cables?

Hi guys. I'm new to this. I just purchased a DVR that came with CCD cameras, but haven't as yet installed everything. I also have 2 small LCD screens; one for the front and one for the rear of the house.

If I need 1 particular camera's signal to be split into 3 (1 for DVR and 2 for the LCD's), what is the recommended solution? I was thinking of a BNC splitter (I call it a 'T' connector) which would split the signal into 2, then connect a second T connector (to one of the 1st splitter's outputs) to create a 3rd output. But I have a feeling the signal would deteriorate. Am I correct in assuming this? Should I use an amplified splitter box instead? The camera, DVR and 1st LCD will be in close proximity of each other, but the second LCD will be further away.

Thanks, Jason.

If you are using proper CCTV monitors they will have a loop-through connection, the last monitor must have a terminating resistor or may have a through/end switch.

If you are not using proper CCTV monitors then you'll need a video distribution amp.

When using any outside dome camera with audio inputs and outputs, can these use the speaker and mic on my ChannelVision DP-0302 Door intercom?

probably not.

The camera input/output are probably both at line level which will not match any type of microphone directly, or most speakers.

Also the door intercom appears to be intended to connect to a phone system or intercom controller, so probably won't have standard line level connections.

I simply do not want to get into a battle with my HOA.

Multiple cameras concealed in bird-boxes (unable to be used by birds)

Have one bird-box with the camera inside the box showing genuine nesting birds. That's the one you show anyone from the HOA who visits.

all you can do is record in good quality, but drop the quality - significantly - for live viewing over the network.

Or get multiple connections and bond them to get a faster total speed.

For unbalanced microphones / inputs which are usual, cable should be screened audio cable.

For balanced line then twisted pair can be used.

Alarm cable isn't suitable for anything other than alarms.

R-Vision C150...

Mmmm, tasty.