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Posts posted by rossko

  1. Ethernet cables are limited to 100m, coax (good quality!) will go further.

    A halfway house is to use baluns, which convert a coax signal onto cheaper cat-5/6 cables (and back again). This isn't ethernet but uses the same type of cable. That's likely to be the best solution for that length of run.



    If you do not have local power supplies, the solution is to run your camera power over thick cables. The longer the run, the thicker the cable to avoid voltage drop. The higher the voltage to start with, the more voltage drop you can bear (and so use thinner, cheaper cable).


    I'm guessing you want to avoid running mains cable along the fence etc.


    So using commercial grade cameras that take a 24VAC supply (rather than domestic 12V types) would be a good start. Most camera manuals include a guide to cable gauge and distance.


    With multiple cameras, it might prove cheaper/simpler to run individual cables than try to power them all over one fat cable.


    You'll probably need to think about power for IR illuminators as well.

  2. Are you able to mess with the antenna on your camera model? You might try out using directional WiFi antenna at one camera quite cheaply.


    If you do need to put an outdoor WiFi AP on your chimney, you'd need one with Omni (all directions) antenna I'm guessing? it would probably pay to invest in something good here, as you would get side benefits of improved coverage around your yard for smartphones, one day smart tractors(?) etc.


    Wireless extenders mess up because they effectively listen one way / transmit the other way in turn, adding delay. An AP (Access Point) connects via wire back to your router. If you have a DVR, you may need to configure it to look for cameras on the wired network (if it isn't already).

  3. From the docs,

    HDSA00N1 is an "scan" unit, meaning a camera in a pan-tilt mount. This one is NTSC video format, good if you are in north america.


    That scan unit may be fitted into a dome supporting "conventional" wiring, or fitted into a dome supporting IP wiring - this last branded "VIP" by Honeywell


    HDT0W00D is just such a VIP dome, trailing D standing for Digital.

    This dome may well also have the "conventional" BNC video and RS-485 control wires as well, but you can use the RJ45 ethernet network connector instead.


    So when your scan unit is fitted into that VIP dome, you may treat it is an IP camera. I do not think it is a very "modern" IP camera though, so far as I can see the only available format is simple M-JPEG. I reckon you'd need to check any proposed DVR supports that. Perhaps others can add to that.

    Quite how well the Honeywell PTZ commands over IP might be supported, I don't know.


    If you do have the BNC/RS485 wires available, it might prove easier in the end to use an analogue DVR?


    You don't need to use a Honeywell power supply, any 24V AC supply of at least 5A rating (for each dome) will do

  4. Different thought ; so long as recording capacity is reasonable, who cares if it does record you working in the garden? The objective is to record things that might be of interest later (but probably won't be, and will never be looked at). Allowing a few more not-of-interest recordings shouldn't cause any problem.


    I'd focus on the alerting side, and yes a home automation setup might help here. e.g. alert if PIR triggered while front door is locked, with a snapshot from the cam(s).


    PIRs have their own false trigger issues; shadows , breezes etc. You may be able to combine PIR alert + video motion alert within a few seconds of each other to produce a reliable alert.

  5. Changing the lens won't stop car theft. Take a step back to work out what you want. Is anybody actually going to look at this stuff? If they are, what would they do about it? Do they need prompting in some way to look live? Or, what do they want to gain from a recording?

    How can you improve the CCTV cover to facilitate all that?


    IR coverage of a parking lot is a big (expensive) ask, probably better value to add normal lighting. Consider also coverage of any traffic funnel area e.g. site gateway or access road, its easier than a large area.

  6. Rummaging in the Eneo 'discontinued products' portion of the website, your DVR looks very like a DLR4B model


    manual is available at


    A pic of the rear might help.

    That model has a factory reset switch on the back, last resort if you cannot find the passcode. The passcode is usually entered using the numbered buttons on the front panel.

  7. Can be done but it's specialist stuff. You'd be on a hiding to nothing (same as I would) piecing it together from scratch.


    Relying on video motion detect outdoors is probably a bad idea, if he is serious its worth looking into beam-break and PIR/microwave detection which can be better targeted and "tuned" for effectiveness; the CCTV just providing a means for investigating triggers remotely. Has he thought about the hours of darkness?

  8. How about STP or FTP - shielded "UTP". You ground the shielding at one end only, allows it to work as shield but prevents earth loops. Only use one pair for signal, there is no benefit in doubling up. But that does leave you spare pairs to carry camera power - you've not mentioned where that fits in.


    However, most national wiring codes insist on physically segregating signal cables from mains power wiring. No possibility of adding a partition in your conduit? Using weatherproof cable cable-tied to the outside of the conduit?

  9. I'd be inclined to fix a plastic weatherproof junction box over the hole in the wall, and make your connections in there. Fixing the camera alongside somewhere. Allows access for future work.




    Try to feed cables into each unit from below, discourages water running along the wires.

  10. There's the IP shown by your router to the outside world. You were paying to have that a fixed IP, now you are not, so you use DDNS instead.


    Your DVR has a completely unrelated IP address of its own, used only on your internal network. 192.168.xx.xx probably. You have probably given it a fixed address. You set up port forwarding in your router to create a channel between that and the outside world.


    I'm suggesting that when at home on your wifi, your internal network, you can point the viewer app on your phone directly at the DVRs private internal IP instead of DDNS.

  11. You need to find out what feeds your monitor can work with.


    Guessing the monitor you want to use has a standard composite 1v video input (yellow RCA plug)? AHD won't work properly into that, it is not the same signal.


    You can get converters for AHD to HDMI signal, allowing you to use a modern monitor



    If you have an old monitor, it's probably more cost effective to buy an old-fashioned standard camera off eBay.

  12. The problem I'm having is, I can view the live footage on my phone when the phone isn't connected to the house wifi/internet (mobile 4G) but as soon as I turn the wifi on, I lose connection.

    Okay, so it all works using your DDNS url setup from phone via web into your router, from the outside world side of it.


    I'm guessing that when your phone switches to your wifi, you are still trying to access CCTV via the DDNS url. That would require going out via your router to the web then back down through your router again. An out-and-back loop over your fibre service, if you like.


    In my experience, that "self referencing" works with some routers, some service providers, but not all. I could never make it work over a BT ADSL link.


    An alternative is to use the DVR's local IP address instead of the DDNS url, for a purely local connection that does not go outside your router (or use the port forwarding at all). I'm guessing you have a fixed DVR IP so that you could set up port forwarding.

    You just have to choose on the phone or tablet, between private or web urls each time you start up the viewing app.