Surveillance system for Oil-Spill-collateral-damage victim.

[nancyh1980 0]

Due to the oil spill, there will no one around this area this summer. For her safety, my grandmother has to leave her home and move in with us. She won’t leave without me promising her that her workshop will be protected with cameras while she is gone.

Since I am her only grandchild, I made the promise.

When in college, I spent (3) summers as helper to my boyfriend who was a commercial CCTV technician. We worked on Pelco, Kalatel, Bosch…. As matter of fact, during my last month, I installed a complete Bosch CCTV system with the BOSS DVR…

The issues are following:

While she is gone, the electricity in the workshop will be on ONLY 3 hours day, from 1am-4am. Her window AC unit will not be turned on. Power is for the tiny fridge and charging the batteries for camera system. Regarding the power, please don’t ask me why. There is a reason behind this (beyond my comprehension) and can’t argue with rich Grandma.

As of yesterday, with AC turned off, the temperature inside her workshop was 124 F. The DVR will be hidden in the workshop. It will record (4) Bosch day/night IR dome.

Since we need power, theory wise, I am thinking of having (4) batteries powering the DVR and the cameras. Daily, the 3 hours of power will charge the batteries.

My question are:

Any DVR out there that would function in this heat/humidity?

What type of batteries and ancillary equipment?

I would just use a fused Altronic power supply to power the cameras. What is the best way to hook this power supply and the DVR power to the batteries so this would work throughout the summer?

Thanks in advance of your expertise.

[Soundy 1]

I'd look at any of a number of mobile DVRs, the type intended for automotive use - these are designed for harsh environments and low power consumption. Sorry I can't suggest any specific models, I haven't used any of them myself.

 

As far as power, you could look at using a solar panel or two to help keep the batteries charged while the power is off, especially since 3 hours may not be enough time to give the batteries a full charge. Be sure to use deep-cycle batteries as well, so their output doesn't drop off near the end of the charge.

 

Keep in mind that the IR will drain a LOT more power than just the camera alone - if there's sufficient ambient light (nearby streetlights, etc.), consider a good low-light-capable day/night camera like the CNB VBM-24VF. In addition to excellent low-light response, they have very low power consumption (max 2.2W, according to the spec sheet).

 

One final caveat: remember that cameras MAY provide a deterrent for some, but they do nothing to actually prevent break-ins. "An ounce of prevention" really applies here, and a good monitored alarm would probably be more effective, with the cameras as a backup in hopes of catching burglars should they get by that.

[rory 0]

Even if you find a DVR that can handle the heat, such as the Avermedia EB1304 or the AvTech units .. and other basic DVRs such as those .. the hard drives will still take a good beating. Might want to consider looking at a solid state drive, although they could end up costing more then the DVR! As soundy mentioned the mobile DVRs could provide for lower power.

[Harrar 0]

If feasable, have you considered adding solar panels on the workshop? Gulf coast/summertime, should be plenty of sunshine to charge batteries and keep things going for longer than the three hours of electricity. Maybe even a fan or two.

[nancyh1980 0]

Guys, thanks for your input. I really appreciate that.

Regarding solar, it is a wonderful idea if solar panels are stolen quite often down here.

Regarding the alarm system, it is up and running. I installed the panel with PE beams and 1 siren/strobe. For battery, I hooked up (2) D8 batteries and inverter charging the system. We will test it this weekend with the limited (3) hours/day. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Regarding the IRs, you are right. Unfortunately, it is pitched black at night.

Regarding the DVR, I just have to drive down here weekly and see how well it holds up.

Any other input would be appreciated.

[Soundy 1]

Since IR is unavoidable, perhaps consider using separate IR illuminators, and run them off a separate battery. That way if that battery drains, the cameras and DVR will still be working. There are far more light hours than dark hours, and good day/night cameras like those CNBs will work great even in twilight, which means there are only maybe 3-4 hours of the day that the IR is really NEEDED - the cameras will be effective without it the other 20+ hours.

 

If you really wanted to get fancy, each camera could run off its own battery as well, with the same concept: one camera's battery draining will still leave the other cameras operating.

 

Naturally, you'd need to use battery isolators to ensure each battery sees ONLY its own designated load.

 

One final thought: some guys here are really big on white-LED illuminators, rather than IR, as the white light does make for more realistic images and better identification. I personally like the concept of motion-activated floodlights instead of IR, because a bright light snapping on in their faces will chase off most guys skulking around in the dark. Combine the two ideas and use motion-activated white-light illuminators. This has the added benefit of the illuminators not being a constant draw on the batteries; in fact, they may not need to be on for days at a time. Even if you're set on IR, for that matter, using separate illuminators and triggering them off a motion sensor would be a big power savings as well.

[nancyh1980 0]

Gosh we are on the same frequency. But as I searched for LED light, found couple from Magna that consumes 12 watts or 1 amp. I nixed that idea due the power needed.

[Soundy 1]

Yeah, some of the others here might have other suggestions for you, I haven't used the white-LED units myself. Keep in mind, of course, that if you put them on motion sensors, they'd be on only for very short periods. Running a 12W illuminator for two minutes is still no more power than running a 400mW illuminator for an hour. If it ran overnight for even four hours, your illuminator would have to draw no more than 100mW to be the same TOTAL power consumption.

[nancyh1980 0]

Latest issue hope you guys would rescue. The system is working quite well. Better than expected. I am now up to (10) 8D batteries. Boy I learned so much of DC....

 

A neighbor 1/3 mile down has power. He has offered to watch the cameras if he can see it on his computer. He does have a router.

 

I am ignorant of wifi.... May I ask how to accomplish this, if possible?

[Sawbones 0]

Latest issue hope you guys would rescue. The system is working quite well. Better than expected. I am now up to (10) 8D batteries. Boy I learned so much of DC....

 

A neighbor 1/3 mile down has power. He has offered to watch the cameras if he can see it on his computer. He does have a router.

 

I am ignorant of wifi.... May I ask how to accomplish this, if possible?

 

If you have line-of-sight, and a set of directional antennas (panel/waveguide/dish), you could simply put a wifi bridge on either end.

[DVR MAN 0]

My $.02. I would look into finding a low power dvr (which was mentioned), and hook it up to the alarm systems alarm contacts so that it only powers up when the alarm is triggered.

Some mobile DVRs have a module that separates from the host and will run on 5VDC (DVRM10).

You could run a closed loop wire to the solar panels that would trigger the alarm if the wires were cut. As for handling the DVR current, there are many low current solid stste slave relays out there.

[nancyh1980 0]

My $.02. I would look into finding a low power dvr (which was mentioned), and hook it up to the alarm systems alarm contacts so that it only powers up when the alarm is triggered.

Some mobile DVRs have a module that separates from the host and will run on 5VDC (DVRM10).

[bpzle 0]

Home Depot carries solar powered motion activated LED flood lights... $80-$120 each. I'd be interested to see their performance on a project like this. I was thinking of buying a few to try out on a portable CCTV trailer I'd like to build one day..

[nancyh1980 0]

My $.02. I would look into finding a low power dvr (which was mentioned), and hook it up to the alarm systems alarm contacts so that it only powers up when the alarm is triggered.

Some mobile DVRs have a module that separates from the host and will run on 5VDC (DVRM10).

You could run a closed loop wire to the solar panels that would trigger the alarm if the wires were cut. As for handling the DVR current, there are many low current solid stste slave relays out there.

 

I went the stand-alone NVR route. Draws 52 watts/1 amp once activated by the cameras. The megapixel picture and its zoom capability wowed even the local patrol officer.

[nancyh1980 0]

Home Depot carries solar powered motion activated LED flood lights... $80-$120 each. I'd be interested to see their performance on a project like this. I was thinking of buying a few to try out on a portable CCTV trailer I'd like to build one day..

 

I used wireless PE beams. Even at the edge of the property, 1300 ft away, the beams activated the cameras and LED flood lights. I used Larson Magnalite LED lights which cost quite a penny. But can't argue with the results.

[DVR MAN 0]

My $.02. I would look into finding a low power dvr (which was mentioned), and hook it up to the alarm systems alarm contacts so that it only powers up when the alarm is triggered.

Some mobile DVRs have a module that separates from the host and will run on 5VDC (DVRM10).

You could run a closed loop wire to the solar panels that would trigger the alarm if the wires were cut. As for handling the DVR current, there are many low current solid stste slave relays out there.

 

I went the stand-alone NVR route. Draws 52 watts/1 amp once activated by the cameras. The megapixel picture and its zoom capability wowed even the local patrol officer.

 

Great!