bantham1 0 Posted January 10, 2011 I have an 12v 18 channel 18amp power supply. Each channel is regulated at 1a. I am thinking of wiring two channels together to increase output in parallel by hooking common negatives and positive from both channels with to pieces of wire, then hooking it to the pigtail. Has anybody hooked to channels together to increase output amps? Each channel has a 1amp fuse and I do not know if I would need to change this in parallel? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bongofury 0 Posted January 10, 2011 Some power supplies allow this. Some don't. What make and model power supply is this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted January 10, 2011 What are you running off of it that requires over an amp? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bantham1 0 Posted January 10, 2011 Huviron 700IR. For some reason the IRs are not working tonight. They were working last night. It is very cold here/ice storm. I am wondering if it is a power issue if the heater came on or if there is more reflection with the ice and the IRs are not coming on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Soundy 1 Posted January 10, 2011 Hmmm, the specs do claim up to 1.5A draw... It's hard to find any specific details on that power supply, but from the pictures I found, it appears to just be common-rail with separately-fused outputs; I don't see anything specifying that they're individually regulated outputs, and the best picture I found doesn't seem to show the wiring necessary for that. If that's the case, you could probably just put a 2A fuse in one channel and run off that... on the other hand, if the camera WAS drawing significantly over 1A, the fuse would probably have popped anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bantham1 0 Posted January 10, 2011 Yes. The fuses actually are 3amp in it now. No fuses have popped. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tomcctv 187 Posted January 10, 2011 Huviron 700IR. For some reason the IRs are not working tonight. They were working last night. It is very cold here/ice storm. I am wondering if it is a power issue if the heater came on or if there is more reflection with the ice and the IRs are not coming on? Hi bantham1. for the 700 i would go to 2 amp. this camera has ajustable brightness on the ir and i would also run some cat5 so as you get the full benifitt of the camera. with its controls. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rory 0 Posted January 10, 2011 Yes. The fuses actually are 3amp in it now. No fuses have popped. fuses dont have to pop, the LEDs just wont come on if there isnt enough amps. It requires 1.3amps with LED on. With the extremes I used in the past without enough amps the entire camera would go out until the day time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Birdman Adam 0 Posted January 10, 2011 I'll bet they used crappy fuses which cause a current over 1A to just sag the voltage, messing up the camera. A proper fuse would pop quick after 1A+ of current. Only a really expensive supply would have individually regulated channels. I don't see any reason why you can't tie two together. I wouldn't just put a bigger fuse in one, because the traces on the PCB/wires may not be big enough to carry that bigger load on just one channel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bantham1 0 Posted January 10, 2011 fuses are rated at 3amps not 1 like I thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bantham1 0 Posted January 11, 2011 IR is back on. It appears it was a setting with "mode 2" dynamic IR. I switched it back to "mode 1" and it is back: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Huviron 0 Posted February 8, 2011 bantham1, Glad that you found out the solution. I just checked this post. Sorry about late respond. Under Dynamic IR settings, Mode1 is regular dynamic IR settings. Changes IR brightness according to distance of the object and environment brightness and etc. Mode2 is more complicated. In this mode, IR birghtness changes as well as it uses WDR and senseup. It will try to stay without IR as much as possible and it will eventually turn on the IRs at the pitch black condition but with WDR on. This will be useful when you need to see something not reacheable with IR. (Especially objects on the corners) But you get slower frame rate and more noise when you use this mode. Hope this helped. Let me know if you have more questions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cikufa 0 Posted March 3, 2011 You shouldn't use bigger fuse other than necessery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
