TJCCTV

Hey y'all,

 

I'm new to the forum, and to CCTV, I got this CCTV project, we usually do data/voice projects, but this is our first CCTV project, we have the longest cable run about 200 yards, and don't no what cable to use CAT6 or Coax, and how about power supply?

 

I appreciate yer help.

 

thanks,

 

Marcel.

Marcel,

That distance I would use use CAT5e. With a lot of research you can find why

CAT6 isn't what I would use. Coax is great for SHORT runs or with expensive

repeaters. I've run over 1200 feet lengths with passive baluns with perfect

quality.

Skip the cheap baluns.

I wouldn't use active / active unless you find it is necessary. It can actually

give you a much worse signal than if passive / passive works. Depends on a

lot of factors. I use passive / passive first, if needed I upgrade to active / passive,

and lastly active / active.

Might want to research type of mounting (eg on metal buildings, and the problems

you have to deal with correctly - and any lightening, close high voltage, etc).

There are a lot of awesome pros on this forum, and each has a different set of

experiences and solutions. Some may disagree with each other but all I have

seen are incredibly great sources.

Good luck with your project,

TJ

You can try here:

http://www.duncansonline.ca/FAQs/DicoFaq.htm

If the link doesn't work on this forum, just put the following together

(removing the spaces)

http://www. duncansonline. ca/ FAQs/ DicoFaq. htm

They have the software for server and client, and manuals.

The manual has everything you need.

Each of your camera systems w/Pico have a card in them.

Each are the servers, and you put the server software on each.

Setup per the manual.

Yours that accesses all of them is the client.

Load the client software on yours, following the manual.

You can view multiple Pico servers at once.

It's all in the manual.

TJ

*********************************************

TJ

I was looking for Dico Comander in the internet but cant find anywhere to downaload,

and to use this software as server do i have to install any dvr card on server computer or not....

Thnx for your help...

Hello,

 

I have installed 20 PICO DVR cards in 20 different locations and i can c them remotly by static IP thruogh Remote client, but i want to install a remote Station to C live at List 10 Of them LIVE ,

Do you have any Idea if this is Possible or any other Choice...

 

Thnx in Advance...

Good news!

I have successfully used DICO Commander, to do what you are wanting,

for a long time.

It's free, but watch where you download it from.

A quick Google and you will find places to find it.

Careful: There are a lot of sites which have it that will dump viruses,

etc on your system.

I haven't found trojans or any other problems with DICO if you get it from a

reputable site. It has been working great for me.

The setup is easy and you can view multiple locations at the same time.

If you need help just let me know.

I'm not affiliated with DICO at all, just like what it does.

TJ

I haven't seen this particular problem addressed anywhere.

GV-800 with 16 cams hooked up.

Worked beautifully for about a year.

1. Now it is taking some cameras and duplicating them into two

positions on the screen at the same time.

2. Some (tested/working) cameras are showing as no signal

being received.

3. Some cameras have magically moved into appearing on other

camera positions. (They were not changed).

4. Since it thinks it has video loss on some of the cameras it

automatically reboots itself repeatedly.

Think it is a software or card issue?

Checked and card is still seated perfectly.

Suspecting the GV system has simply glitched and needs to

be reloaded, but wanted to get the opinion of you guys before

taking any drastic measures.

The DVR has been checked thoroughly and it is operating

perfectly other than the GV programs.

Any experienced ideas are appreciated.

TJ

Has anyone on here actually tried Spiderex, or is there something (including home remedies) that help to reduce or eliminate spiders building webs on CCTV cameras?

They've been driving us buggy and it's only Spring !

Any sincere ideas are appreciated.

TJ

Plexdata / Plexcctv (out of Florida)

I used to buy from them and had really good experience with their products. Great shipping and support all the way.

They used to use Geovision which is great. Now they say they use something different out of Tiawan and their own software.

After several inquiries of them, they have no demo, offer no information as to a manual, and no clue which card so I can at least research it, and see if it is suitable for my clients.

Does anyone have any clue which equipment they are using in their DVRs so I can get the info I need?

I hate to give up on what was once a terrific supplier, and have to go looking all over again for top-notch equipment and service for my clients. I'm just not inclined to buy blind like that.

Thanks!

Oklahoma yes on security systems and CCTV

"I live in San Francisco, CA is this legal?"

Yes, it's legal to live in San Francisco. Just not my choice.

(Sorry, couldn't resist)

Might check the California Statutes.

Not an attorney, but likely ok as long as you aren't recording or viewing your neighbors. No audio at all.

Attached are images of the original lens that I am needing to upgrade. Hope they are of help.

Still haven't identified type of mount. It's smooth and 13.8-13.9mm, and depth of 7.2 mm. (my measurements)

Thanks for helping.....

I have an original lens that I am needing to upgrade.

The camera is an outside IR. Any help is greatly appreciated.

The replacement lens needs, of course, to fit into the case by being same size or smaller.

Here's the puzzle: I have been unable to determine the exact lens mount type. The lens slides into the body (smooth, no threads) and tightens down with a couple of set screws.

Lens mount (smooth) outside diameter is 13.8 - 13.9 mm

7.2 mm - Depth

What kind of lens mount is that?

Don't think it is an M17 "NF Mount".

4-9mm Vari-focal Manual Iris IR Lens

Per Manufacturer: C/CS Interface

I don't see how....

1/3" interline Sony SUPPER HAD color CCD

Lens Dimensions (my measurements):

40.5-6 mm - Top to Bottom Height

13.8-9 mm - Lens bottom (mount) OS Diameter

27.9 mm - Lens TOP O/S Diameter

7.2 mm - Depth of mounting surface

Needing to upgrade the lens from 4-9mm, but first have to determine the type of mount for one to even install.

Any ideas? Thanks!

I have a video problem that I haven't seen the answer to yet.

Doesn't appear to be a ground loop issue. Am I correct that a ground loop

problem should be pretty much consistant 24/7?

This problem occurs at specific times of the day when specific heavy

industrial equipment is turned on / off.

System specs: 12v. Some cameras are powered through box power

supply.

Affects three cameras which have separate video cabling (cat5e/baluns),

and due to their distance from the power supply box, are running off their

separate transformers. All three transformers (due to their location), are

plugged into the same power plug-in.

1. After exhaustive testing and analysis of video I have narrowed down

that the three experience the interference and clarity in unison.

2. The events occur when an employee starts up / turns off a specific

piece of heavy industrial equipment that is crucial to the business, in an

adjoining section of the building.

The interference clears after the piece of equipment has had time to "wind

down" and not immediately when it is turned off, if that helps.

Any ideas on this one? I'm not having much luck yet.....

Thanks!

PS. Please don't post any images I may have sent. I will PM them

but can't have them floating on the internet or I can have a really

upset client on my hands to deal with. Everyone's help is truly

appreciated and welcomed.

Probably everyone enjoying the eggnog.

Anyone have ideas on the resolution question above?

Thanks!

Almost finished with my project and you guys have been a tremendous help.

Two Questions:

1. - System with GV-800 16 channel card. I'm

running 15 Sony GS262B 520TVL cameras. The quality is not great at all.

They were from Gadspot and their other cameras have been great.

Any idea how to improve the resolution to get the image quality in a good

range?

I realize the question is pretty vague. Running at 640x480 and have tinkered

with the settings in the Directdraw and De-interlace.

Live and recorded are both not great quality at all. Did better with cheaper

cameras in the 400 TVL range.

Any ideas how to check / improve the quality? The cameras have zoom/focus

screws at the back and have adjusted both the full range.

2. Any idea where to get lenses to match those cameras? The factory

ones are 4-9mm and I'm needing more in the range of 25 or 50mm that

can fit in the housings. The factory has them, but won't let them go unless

they are mounted in one of their much more expensive identical cameras.

I have the lens specs (dimensions) if that would be a help.

Help.....

Thanks Guys!

As always, you are the greatest.

That was my bet, but I definately appreciate the second-opinions !

TJ

The experts here at CCTV Forum have come through 100%!

Soon I hope to help others as much as they have helped me.

Here's the problem:

Installation nearly completed. Longest range is 1,200 ft with Cat5e and baluns. All cameras so far running perfectly and crystal clear.

Sound great so far?

Conduit for one of the main trunks was over a commercial garage door. Was temporarily held up in position with zip-ties (which held great) until the final run was completed.

Some of the ties released, which let the conduit lower in range of the huge commercial garage door (manual lift). Guy on site was lifting door and when it hung up on "something" (being the CCTV conduit) he repeatedly jammed the door till it opened.

Cat5's not broken. Receiving signal. Now has lots of small lines in nearly all of the cameras.

I've heard that if spliced (I use 3m connectors that seal) that you can loose half or all of the signal due to the change in the twist, etc, of the wires.

So - replace a total of 4,000 feet of underground cabling, or try active receivers, or cut / splice out the section that was damaged.....

Damage consists of the cables apparently being pinched at 90 degrees.

Any thoughts?

Had a real problem getting detailed specs on the lens dimensions so I can compare it to the space in the camera.

Cam is 20' up and range out is about 50' (or more)

I truly appreciate all your help!

Man tough break.

 

I have not had water in a camera like that but I have had water in other devices. What I've found is if water did get into the housing of the unit water tends to not evaporate to easily even when left out to dry. I find that you have to take the housing apart because water gets in under the surface mount parts. Humidity may eat away at critical parts if it's not completely dry.

 

I've used a heat gun or hair drier on low heat to really dry all the parts off, reassemble it and it should work just fine. By doing this you will be certain that you got all water out out of there.

 

Keep in mind you might void a MFG warranty by taking the camera apart.

 

Others may have other ideas but without disassembly I'm not sure how you can be certain that it completely dried out.

*****************

That did the trick! Thanks for the assist. TJ

You guys are the greatest and I genuinely appreciate your help.

This particular project has some challenges I haven't had in 25 years.

Question is about changing lenses in CCTV Outdoor Bullet Camera.

Budget is tight, so replacing cameras isn't an option. Hoping to upgrade.

Camera is a Gadspot.com GS262B

520TVL. Lens is adjustable 6-9mm

Mounted 20' off ground. Needing to get license plates, which a 9mm doesn't do well.

Wanting to upgrade with something like eBay # 230394332469 item that is a:

50mm fixed Board Lens*4*CCTV Camera 1/3" New (CW5012B).

Can't find any info on the lens.

Has anyone swapped lenses on a camera similar to the one mentioned

above? Is it even possible?

The camera has screws in the back and a rubber belt drive inside for

adjustments.

If I can find a lens (around 50mm) that will fit into the case, I'm willing to

forgo the drive and just unscrew the front to adjust the lens if necessary.

I will be a good contributor once I get all the unique problems of the

current project overcome and completed.

Time is critical as the project is due in the next few days.

Thanks!

TJ

Question is about damage control and best drying method.

I always test cameras prior to installing and all cameras tested perfectly.

I had mounted an OUTDOOR 520TVL camera on the outside of a

warehouse. Trusted that the seal around the wiring at the back of the

camera would keep out moisture.

It was not yet wired or turned on, just mounted on the wall outside.

Really bad rainstorm came through. As I was completing the wiring (still

not turned on) I noticed it had about a quarter inch of water INSIDE

the camera !

After the storm passed, I took off the rain shield, and unscrewed the front

half of the camera to let the water out. Thoroughly cleaned the inside of

the front half. Then I let it air-dry for a while. Re-installed the front

housing and the rain-shield. Siliconed around the wiring at back entrance

of camera.

Tomorrow is supposed to be dry weather. I'm planning to open it back up

and let it air dry completely.

Then go ahead and power it up.

I realize this involves a bit of guessing, and what I am looking for is

anyone who has ideas of what else I should do to increase the odds that

the expensive camera isn't totally ruined.

Not just "bet it's fried, dude" but actually experienced technical advice

of how to give it the best chance of working before I power it up.

Thanks!

TJ

I can already imagine the hoots and laughs I'm going to get on my

response, from the other guys (and gals?), but here goes anyway.

Been doing this for years, and have a few tricks, some techy, some so

barbaric it's shocking that they work.

From the post - you already have a camera (apparently stuck with) and

you want to resolve the light problem.

If the camera is they type that you can slide the camera lens back from

the front glass just a tiny bit, you can go get a pair of decent sunglasses

(the kind that automatically adjust with light difference). Then take out

one lens and cut it down precisely (dremel, etc) to fit just over the lens.

Fix it over the lens (don't slop glue or something on it). Without seeing the

camera I can't tell you how to do it on that model. Do not cover the IR

leds or they will be defeated.

You will now have an automatically adjusting lens that corrects for bright

light hitting it. Barbaric, I know, but it actually works.

Check the glasses first with your eyes before bothering to cut the lenses.

If the glasses don't adjust well enough when you test them with your eyes

first, they won't on the camera either.

I used this trick on a store not long ago that had bright florescent lights in

the path (cooler doors) that couldn't be simply avoided by the cameras

due to the store setup. Owner was too tight to spring for better cams.

This was done on a dome camera that was adjustable.

Surprisingly, it worked like a charm !

Sometimes thinking way out of the box works.

Let me know if it works for you.

For those of you who mount CCTV cameras on wooden poles in the future I discovered a couple of things.....

1. I don't do well at 20' on a ladder on a pole. I don't recommend it to anyone else either. Didn't come crashing down, but either raw fear or common sense won out. Extreme caution is always used, but if you have the slightest qualms about it (as I DID) - don't do it.

2. Even for a first-timer with a bucket truck, they are a real God-Send. Some can be a little "goosey" on the controls, but in spite of the awkward hopping in and out of the bucket, they are a HUGE time saver and worth every penny in rent or buying !

If you don't use the most extreme caution, they can literally jamb you right into the power lines, so test it out completely before you even get near the poles. Get familiar and comfortable with how it responds. I'd much rather discover that the controls were defective in an open area of a parking lot, and be suspended 40 feet in the air (with a cell phone) waiting for fire-rescue to get me down, than discover the truck had a little glitch and wouldn't stop when you wanted it to and be carried off in a black zipper bag.

Should you be one of the unfortunate ones who gets dizzy at altitude, focus sideways and above, unless you are headed down and near the truck. Then of course, pay attention so you don't slam the bucket into the back of the truck, or heaven forbid, someone's Porsche. (Nope, I didn't do that but could DEFINATELY see a possibility for a major oops).

If you are a first-timer and they walk you through the controls, PAY ATTENTION to what they are telling you. Don't assume it's a piece of cake and you will figure it out later ---- it's not like your 100th time at watching the stewardesses showing you how to put an oxygen mask on.

If the truck or trailer unit has side legs (outriggers) USE THEM ! You can find photos on the internet of people who didn't and wound up with a truck on it's side and no telling where the guy in the bucket went - sometimes a coroner's hearse.

I am in no way responsible if someone uses a bucket truck and gets hurt. Just suggesting it is a safer alternative to a huge ladder and hanging on for your life, which is obvious.

Thank you to all the people who give such great advice on here. This is just my two cents on mounting CCTV Cams on Wooden poles.

[/b]

We always test prior to doing installs to make sure all equipment is operating perfect and reliably before doing the wiring.

Here's the Dumb Question of The Day:

Could you get a reasonably accurate test by connecting the camera and dvr to the Cat5e while all but the ends are still coiled in the box?

Or is there some other factor involved that would only come into play if the entire 1000' is stretched out?

Looking for a reliable test, prior to installing, of the cameras to the dvr, at a range of 1000'.

Plans are for Cat5e with passive/passive baluns (active receivers available if needed.

Thanks for any sincere answers / ideas.

Tim J.[/b]

I'll gladly take the dummy of the week award for this one, but I'm not too proud to ask a dumb question.

The way I'm getting it, there are two totally opposing views of how to deal with lightning.

Deals with outdoor cameras:

PLAN A

1. Wood Pole Mounted: Ground the camera to the grounding conductor running down the pole.

2. Metal Building Mounted: Ground the camera's mount TO the building.

*** OR ***

PLAN B

1. Wood Pole Mounted: DON'T ground the camera mount to the grounding

conductor of the pole.

2. Metal Building Mounted: INSULATE the camera mount FROM the building by installing onto a wood block or plastic box.

Which is the CORRECT pair of methods?

-----------------------------------------------------------------

I realize that lightning can randomly go wherever it chooses, but looking to improve the odds even if only slightly. Also that the question is probably the most basic (Lightning 101) that you have ever seen.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Planning on Cat5e with surge baluns (passive/passive) and as needed will use passive/active.

For those who respond - hope you remember that once upon a time, long long ago, you didn't know the answer either.

Any help and patience is greatly appreciated.

TJ

The steel conduit above ground was to protect (somewhat) for vandalism. Would it be any significant improvement to switch to grey electrical PVC, and sacrifice the vandalism improvement, or would the cameras with the CAT5e still be at nearly as much risk anyway due to the camera being metal cased and the wiring?

They are to be on utility poles with existing large parking floodlights at the top. The cams at about 20 feet.

Being existing utility with lights, they should have a groundwire. Should the steel be grounded to that wire, or would that just draw a strike into a camera they might have been missed should a light get hit?

All I know about lightening could be on a thimble, and that it can strike where it wants, when it wants, regardless of actions taken. All you can hope for is to improve the odds..... (of course, I could be wrong).

Any tips / help is tremendously appreciated !

This has been likely discussed time and again, but I have been pouring through the postings for several days for the answer.

The majority of the cameras on the project are pole-mounted. Vandalism is a real concern, so proposal was for EMT above, and PVC underground. There are now some concerns about lightening actually being drawn to the system (it's located in the USA, Midwest, in an area known as "Tornado Alley").

Bahama Security has made reference to the Steel Conduit on a pole creating a lightening rod.....and it has my attention.

What is the best method for steel on poles, connecting to PVC underground? Maximum range is approximately 1,000 - 1,200 ft. Plans for Cat5e with baluns (passive/both) with Active receivers only if needed.

Main concern is the lightening issue. Any ideas? PVC above isn't an option due to vandalism. Any helpful tips are appreciated.