DKtucson

The CS mount would be for a box camera/full sized unit. Domes usually incorporate the little board lenses ( I think 5.5mm in diameter?). And a word in general to replacing lenses in dome cams--if they have IR illuminators you are asking for trouble. The ir is set for the "stock" lens--start putting a wide-angle in there and you are asking for glare issues or spot effect.

you might want to check blue cherry dot net . I got an 8 channel 240FPS with generic WDM drivers --the PV183 model.. It was under $300

Your ISP should have this information from help pages or if you google "dns numbers for comcast" or whatever provider you are dealing with, any number of help sites usually have postings of this. Your router may not be picking up the numbers and they may need to be manually input

check out BTVPro--british company--has a single license for 20 british pounds (about 40 bucks) and it does motion detection recording From the website: BTV Pro is an application for the Macintosh that allows you to view, capture and edit video, and create stop-motion animations. It also has advanced capture features such as time lapse, motion detection, and DV input/output. It works with any Macintosh compatible video input source such as video input cards, TV cards, built-in video, USB, DV, and FireWire video sources. BTV Pro is available as a classic application for Mac OS 8 and 9, and also a Carbonized application that runs natively under Mac OSX (the Carbon version also runs under Mac OS 8.6 or later with CarbonLib). You could get a TV capture card with RCA input or a decent USB cam and pipe it in

actually I called the distributor and ran the specs by them and the math works Each of the cam circuits is rated at 750Ma with the fuse. If I unplug the emitter on the camera the 300Ma consumption drops down to 200Ma---add in the 400Ma external emitter and I'm only pulling 600Ma per circuit--below the overload range. They say that my current power supply should be sufficient.

hello everyone, I did an install for a gal in a home and she wanted dome cams for the anti-vandal dooh-dah and we swapped out the 6.0mm lenses for some 3.6's---all bought from same vendor. I've reused the rubber "boot" that jacketed the original lens but seem to be picking up some ghosting/glare from the swap-out in night vision mode..is this the curse of the "affordale" (read: cheap) domes or is there a fix-aroni for the cheesearoni images... daytime they look great.

if you use packaged wipes make sure they are not overly wet/saturated---you don't want fluid getting behind a lens element then drying to a nice crust blob. I have a small fine atomizer that I fill with 1/3 white vinegar and 2/3 water mix...spray a bit on a microfiber cloth and wipe the lens--buff it with a dry microfiber cloth Never spray anything directly on any camera lens

I had a similar headache with my friends setup who had DSL/PPPOE 1. Set the modem for transparent bridging and make sure it's on a different subnet than your router--like the modem might be 192.168.0.1--if so set the router to use 192.168.1.0--no conflicts. Turn off DHCP on the modem 2. In the Linksys setup PPPOE--you might need username/password as well as primary & secondary DNS numbers from the ISP 3. Hit connect/refresh and in the status page it should show it grabbing your external WAN IP (like 72.xxx.xxx.xxx) 4. Determine what IP address your DVR is taking on your lan--like 10.x.x.100. If the DVR interface is editable you might be able to specify another WWW port that your ISP is NOT blocking--like 575. Set your software for that port. 5. In the router interface forward that 575 port to the IP of your DVR Put your dyndns info in the linksys Accessing your unit from the web would be your_dyndns_name:575 in the address bar

Moving the boot closer to the lens was still a poor showing--what I did was take very small pieces of door threashold foam and put that at the base of the boot--this absolutely mashed it against the polycarbonate dome interior--still have nasty glare but some cams "improved". There was a moment, when a car's headlights shined into the camera--it turned the IR off and the scene was PERFECT from the illumination of the cars headlights. I'm looking to add exterior IR emitters and have these questions/specs: Power supply : 12v 5amp central box from: [edit by mod-store link removed] 8 Dome cameras from same outfit: [edit by mod-store link removed] 300Ma rating with internal IR emitters The external emitters I have sourced are 400Ma rated for consumption also at 12vdc. Here's the $64 question: Can I safely disconnect the internal IR emitters in the domes--tap into the EXISTING power leads on the cams and have that power supply keep up and power cams AND emitters? If I'm NOT using the internal emitters to the cams this should help a bit. Also, if need be , on some cams I might be able to swing a plug-in power supply to a localized outlet to take the load off the centralized box. 8 cams at 300Ma = 2.4amps 1 cam is an interior bullet that is working fine so I only need to incorporate 7 IR emitters at 400ma = 2.8amps Total load on the power supply 5.2amps with emitters added any opinions or experience with this?

Thanks for the reply Soundy. I took one of the modded cams home with me so I could shop for a more angled bracket--or fabricate one. In experimenting with it I simply pulled the boot out a bit to help insure that it mates with the polycarbonate surface--this helped immensly. This client is being a bit difficult as she wants domes---but wants them to be able to look at a more sideways angle of view. Umm domes are designed to look down from above--not so much sideways per se. We take the dome off and can place the camera against the rim of the inside--but putting the dome on causes it to be displaced and bump back down. And her idea of "vandal proof" is ignoring a well placed paintball gun round or quiet .22 loaded with Aguila Super Colibri (silent ammo--no powder--uses a large primer to propel the round.) So I'm going to be mounting brackets at slightly ****ed angles to compensate for the angles she wants. And she is well aware that night vision is limited to a very narrow zone in front of the cameras

Hey folks, Here's the situation--did an 8 cam install. The client was adamant about it going into conduit to make it more vandal proof. I have one fairly short run of cable--about 50ft max--where I get a pretty blue screen. Factors: RG59 siamese cables with 7 of the 8 cables bottlenecking into a 1" conduit going into the house. Power checks ok at 12vdc. Using twist on bnc connectors. It worked for a bit until I went to finish off mounting the junction box cover--which makes me think bad connector/cable. I've used the same connector ends on a similar length of cable NOT going through the conduit tightness and the cam works fine. I did an initial continuity check by stripping the far end and joining the center core to the mesh , then went to the inside termination and put my test leads black to the mesh and red to the center core wire--it showed continuity. But my thought is that if they are mashed together elsewhere it will show the same result and be grounded out. So..for a more valid test my thought would be to hook up 12vdc to the video cable and see if 12v is being passed through to the far side----any other pointers or things I'm missing?

thanks for the replies..I'll be back at the site on thursday. The camera works ok hooked up to a different line and a camera that is working at another spot does not work when hooked up to that cable. IT DID WORK MOMENTARILY--until I went to fully mount the cam plate cover to the gang box --jiggling the wires caused it to go out. I have redone the ends numerous times and am doing it the same as the other 7 cams that are working fine. I'm also swapping out connector ends and those same ends work on another cam. I've taken that camera down completely and wired it up on a desk and jiggled the wires--it stays on so it's not the cam pigtails. I have misgivings about conduits that are tight.. the nature of having to pull the cable stresses the cable. I've also ordered up some better crimp connectors

Hi Folks, I've purchased a generic 4chip-4 channel card from geeks.com a while back. It appears to be a physical clone of a Kodicom 4400 card and it came bundled with DVRnet880 software. Before we go off on pirated cards etc let it be said that I do not want to use the software that came with the card. I have a full blown bought license for h264webcam software that can make use of generic cards with drivers properly configured. Here is where the other shoe drops.... I had the DVRnet software up and running and selected each screen one at a time while runing BTspy and following the prompts. I saved the report file and imported it while installing the drivers. I feel I am somewhat close. The card is seen in device manager with no bangs (!). 4 audio and 4 wdm video devices. When I go through the setup in the cam software I get 4 blue standby screens. Trying to probe different settings in amcap will at times trigger a reboot. Can anyone look at this report and see if they see anything blatently off? ### BtSpy Report ### General information: Name:bt4chip Chip: Bt878 , Rev: 0x00 Subsystem: 0x00000000 Vendor: Gammagraphx, Inc. Values to MUTE audio: Mute_GPOE : 0x8003ff Mute_GPDATA: 0x000000 Has TV Tuner: No Number of Composite Ins: 4 Composite in #1 Composite1_Mux : 2 Composite1_GPOE : 0x8003ff Composite1_GPDATA: 0x000000 Composite in #2 Composite2_Mux : 2 Composite2_GPOE : 0x8003ff Composite2_GPDATA: 0x000000 Composite in #3 Composite3_Mux : 2 Composite3_GPOE : 0x8003ff Composite3_GPDATA: 0x000000 Composite in #4 Composite4_Mux : 2 Composite4_GPOE : 0x8003ff Composite4_GPDATA: 0x000000 Has SVideo: No Has Radio: No

No replies ...I've since configured the card in Zoneminder and it seems to be working fine. The zoneminder wiki had a modules.conf file edit for the Kodicom card that worked perfectly for the clone card of mine. While I'm a big Linux fan, the ZM interface is not as straightforward as H264Webcam and I would NEVER consider it for the average end user customer. Email and FTP setup are a hassle....I would consider it for a gunshop/liquor store that needed the reliable uptime/stability and didn't care about remote notification--but that really is a "must have" for after hours use or "away from home" residential useage

As far as using other software you would need to be able to profile the card to the generic BTwincap drivers , then you could use BlueIris, H264Webcam, LuxRiot etc. I've had cards that just don't probe using BTspy to see what settings would make it fly generically. As far as encode.exe causing it to crash...are you trying to include a still image along with the email? Disable that feature. Are you running Outlook Express as your email client? It will look for that or full blown Office mail client. Go into IE--Tools--internet options--tab to Programs. What is your default email client? set it to Outlook Express.

Good for you...unfortunately not all cards are the same...The BTspy program at times has to be able to probe the card while it's in use to get info--not 100% effective

Get rid of the other Hauppage card--if this has a BT chipset it could be causing the issue--never mix brands of cards even if they have what appears to be similar chipsets.

Soundy & Rory, Thank you for the replies and the wealth of info--so the seperate grounds are a breakout and really just smoke & mirrors , eh? The specs on the cameras are as follows: 1/4" sharp CCD 512x492 NTSC 480TV lines 0 Lux min Illum 75ohm/1.0Vp-p video output >48db S/N ratio >0.48 gamma cirrection Auto white balance 1/50-1/100,000 sec electronic shutter auto backlight dc12v 500mA power adapter 35 IR leds for a range of 20m The ground loop isolators I was looking at are avcailable from http://www.active-vision.com/Video_Ground_Loop_Isolator_p/aca-bnc-iso.htm

Hello All, In looking at some of the results I've gotten with cables it's a mixed bag. At times the inexpensive "combo" cabling that has the signal & power running together works fine---in others I get what can best be described as squiggly lines of "noise" which is remedied by running single cable for video signal to the camera and then supplying power locally closer to the cameras. In narrowing down the "why" this is happening it seems to be related to using IR cams that consume 500MA of 12vdc. So--the question for the pros: 1. If I want to run cables back to a centralized location (no local power for the cams close by) would I use Baluns and UTP/Cat5 wire? 2. Is there better "industrial grade" tandem security cam cable that has the RCA/BNC ends and power hookups --(maybe better shielding or less drop over distance?) 3. Are better AC adaptors/Power supplies in need here? We're looking at inexpensive "hecho en china" IR cams that come with plug in ac power adapters--just for the record Daniel

I'll give you 10:1 odds that your problem is a ground loop. The problem with most cheap 12VDC cameras is that the power and video share a common ground. If you get too much difference between the power and ground run for a particular camera, you end up with different-length ground paths, and hence ground-loop issues. With separate power supplies, this will almost never cause a problem, on a central power supply, but the more cameras you add with common power AND video grounds, the worse the problem gets for all of them. Using separate power adapters for each camera is one way to work around it, and they don't have to be close to the camera... they just have to keep the power grounds separate from the other cameras. A better way to work around it is not to use cheap cameras - *good* 12V cameras will have regulators or other designs by which video and power aren't sharing a common ground. 24VAC cameras avoid the issue completely, as they will necessarily have internal rectifiers and regulators. Using baluns in this situation will actually make the problem far worse, because a balun essentially puts a transformer inline with the video signal, thus GREATLY increasing the line length - you end up with a video ground that's technically hundreds of feet longer than the power ground. Baluns are great for killing induced EMI noise, but terrible for ground loops. Soundy, Thank you for the advice...I have also seen the ground loop isolators and was wondering if putting one of those in-line would clean up the picture. Sort of like a ferrite core would clean up radio interference from an appliance or PC component. I had the pleasure of dissecting some dog-chewed cabling on one of the cheapie cams and the grounds are seperate for power & video from what I saw. I am using seperate power supplies (plug in ac adaptors) for each camera--not a central junction box with wire terminals etc.

Thanks for the prompt replies guys. I found an outfit with both bulk and pre-fab setups. 50ft of bulk with all connectors costs out at just over $10 and prefab at $23--good stuff. I think I'll pop for a prefab to check signal cleanliness before popping for 1000' of the stuff just to be sure this addresses the issue. Thanks Daniel

I use dynamic dns--free service. The router has to support UPNP and have an input to use the dns forwarding service. What you do is apply for a dynamic dns hostname like dkcam.dyndns.info. A username & password are created. You pop that info into the router fields and the router feeds the dynamic dns account with the current wan IP address that the ISP is supplying. I forward the ports for the webserver to the internal ip of the DVR in the router. From any browser I would type http://dkcam.dyndns.info:(port number) and the cams come up. same with VNC--I use the dyndns hostname and it resolves to the ip for remote access

on the "new" computer plug it in-set it up--from the dos command prompt type IPCONFIG and make note of the IP address--it might be different than your original pc. In your modem/router settings forward port 1999 to that IP address. Also, the "new" computer might have windows firewall as active and it could be blocking it--either turn off the windows firewall or open port 1999 to both tcp and udp traffic

Thanks for your suggestion. I did what you said, I downloaded the file 9808+1408_en_V8.2.zip off wave-p's download site. I installed the drivers, the drivers got installed fine and the device started successfully. When I ran the DVR.exe program that came with the installer, the program starts fine (was able to detect the driver loaded), but I get no video. All 8 channels says "No Video" despite that there IS video. Is there any other drivers I could try. I think I might be getting closer. Howere, this was the same result I was getting with the Philips SAAxxxx generic drivers as well = no picture. I had the same thing occur when I first installed.. try this...Go to the Toobox icon (the wrench & screwdriver icon towards the bottom right). In the Video tab try the different options for SHOW MODE section of Direct Draw (ACC) Direct Draw(gen) and Direct 3D. With my system Direct Draw -ACC was just black screens, Direct Draw(gen) had NO VIDEO text displayed and Direct 3D was the winner.

I have a somewhat similar card , a 4 chip 4 channel card that I got from geeks dot com. It too came with a rather badly hacked version of QX2006 that I didn't care for. I stumbled upon this completely by accident: I was looking at reviews from purchases made from Amazon. A guy bought a Sabrent card and commented that he has software and upgrades available from wave-p . I went to the link http://www.wave-p.com/en/sales.htm and they have downloads available there with phillips drivers and their WAPA software. The file that worked for my card was 9808+1408_en_V8.2.zip. They have other versions available. Your mileage may vary. Also--it records in 640x480