hardwired

I tracked down a 485 converter at sennetech.net hopefully this will be a quick solution to use with the current setup Are you planning to convert to Pelco protocol at the matrix, and set up the PTZ to accept that input format, or the other way around?

You could keep the encoder/decoder pair for video only, and use a separate set of RS422/485 to ethernet converters for the PTZ control over the same data link, here's a example that lists your type of application as one of it's uses. http://www.planet.com.tw/en/product/product_appl.php?id=16529

You're welcome, glad it's working for you.

You may not have any problems, the biggest difference with better cable is that it is more resistant to interference from electrical noise. Try to make sure and keep your cable as far as possible from high voltage power wiring.

RG59 is the cable type most commonly used, RG6 is typically used for very long runs, due to lower resistance.

I'd check around in your area for an electrical supply house that can provide bulk cable, and attach your own connectors.

Without providing specifications, it's hard to say- refer back to my previous quote, "Do make sure that you use pure copper core coaxial cable with copper braid shielding, (ideally 95% braid coverage), and keep both cables as close to the same length as possible. The most commonly found RG6 or RG59 is usually for cable TV or satellite use, and has a copper covered steel core, with foil shielding. This type of cable is unsuitable for carrying low frequency (baseband) video."

Yes, each device needs it's own IP address, the simplest setup would be the .1, .2, etc, as you mentioned. the decoder needs to have the address of the encoder in it's settings as well, to know where to pull the data stream from. The best setup for the Nanostations is WDS bridging, similar to the wiki article here, the WDS mode in this case allows the bridge to be a layer 2 type (transparent to the data flowing through it). http://wiki.ubnt.com/BeansTalk_PtP_Layer-2_Bridge_Direct

The setup works quite well, the latency is greater than analog, but still not bad at all, and the adaptability and stability of the setup is very nice. I'm not too familiar with the Panasonic matrix, but it should allow addressing at least as many cameras as the matrix itself supports, if not more. If you are familiar with setting up the Nanostations, you already have a big part of the problem solved, you just need to set up the encoder/decoder with unique addresses, point the settings of the decoder to point to the encoder address, and set the baud rate of data for control, and the DIP switches for RS422 or RS485 data.

I would imagine the matrix has a RS422/485 data output for PTZ control, and the camera has an option for hardwired data control, as well. If this is the case, I did a similar setup with a Pelco PTZ using an IP encoder/decoder pair from Acti (ACD-2100 at the camera, ACD-3100 at the headend), and Ubiquiti Nanostation M5 wireless radios in a bridge configuration. Your cost will be lower than Trango or similar wireless gear with separate radios for data, and there's less degradation of the image quality, and multiple sets of IP based radios can run in the same area with much less chance for interference (many channel selections and smaller bandwidth than analog radios).

There's not any systems that I know of in analog that could do this. Even RS422/485 control in analog requires a separate transmitter and receiver for data. What's the complete scenario, maybe I can suggest some options.

For the fenceline, something like the Southwest Microwave fence cable system would work well. I've seen it work, but I'm not sure about pricing, I think it averages a few dollars per foot of fence. For area sensing, I've used the Protech sensors, http://www.protechusa.com/Products/PIRAMIDXL2.htm, and they work quite well. For the input to Exacq, you'd connect the sensor output to something like the Axis P8221, that gives you 8 inputs and outputs, along with one audio in and out, that would give you your event triggering in the Exacq.

I don't have any personal experience with this company, but Charlie Pierce is an old and respected name in the industry, it's worth looking into- http://www.leapfrogtc.com/index.htm

STP is often called for when installing wireless or other outdoor mounted equipment to provide better grounding for lightning protection, and to discharge wind generated static buildup.

The Pelco KBD300A controller, with the KBDKIT wiring and power supply would be a good choice. They are pricey, but work well and are very durable. They use a RJ45 (CAT5) type jack and cable.

You aren't even close to enough system capacity to run your camera, let alone a wireless link on top of that. You are off by close to a factor of ten on the panel and battery sizing. Take a look at some system sizing calculators, like these. http://www.advancepower.net/advcalc.htm http://www.altestore.com/store/calculators/off_grid_calculator/

Also, because full 1080P Pro grade broadcast cams like this Sony PDWF800 run in the $30,000 range...$1200 doesn't even cover a lens.

See, in your diagram, you put the garage wires on the N.O. terminals, but if we have the relay constantly energized, then we would have to put them on the N.C. terminals instead. Now, when the relay has no power, the two terminals for N.C. have continuity. When the relay is energized, the two terminals for N.O. have continuity. Since we will be energizing the relay constantly when not in alarm state, then the garage door wires will have to hook up to the N.C. terminals, so that they would have continuity when the alarm output of the Axis camera stops energizing them. However, if I lose electricity at my home, then I believe the "timer" function wont work on the relay, but then at that point, even with no power, the relay terminals will not be energized anymore, so it will switch back from N.O. having contuity to then having continuity on the N.C. terminals, which would energize my garage door opener (which has a backup battery). Am I making any sense, or do you think that is incorrect? I will have to test with my volt meter and see if that theory is correct. My design is correct in using the N/O contacts, the relay module has constant power, but the actual relay on the board is not normally energized until triggered.

Unless you use very expensive multi-radio units (and sometimes even with using high end gear), mesh is usually a disaster, especially because people look at it as a plug and play solution, with no understanding of a proper RF system design. In almost all cases, a properly planned point to point, or point to multipoint solution is far preferable. (Incidentally, Ubiquiti radios don't support true mesh networking without a third party firmware, because of the absolute disaster that attempting mesh usually brings). I have multiple installations with up to a dozen Ubiquiti radios each, running with extremely high reliability, it just takes proper planning in regards to site surveys (both RF spectrum analysis, and line of sight planning), bandwidth needs, and an understanding of the proper equipment for the job. (A hint- omnidirectional antennas are almost never a good choice).

The trigger input also goes low if the power goes out or flickers, too, right? I'll give it a try one night this week after work and see how it goes I have a couple of 12v power supplies from my old analog cameras that I can use for power. Yes, but it should only go low at the same time the relay module loses power, so it will not be able to activate the relay....Probably. Surely won't hurt to test that theory.

So then that means that the relay is energized all the time, until I send the trigger from the camera... OR my power goes out or flickers, at which point the garage door opens (garage door motor has a backup battery). If I run this setup, then I'd have to move the garage door wires from the N.O. position to the N.C. position on the timer, which means that if the relay loses power, the relay contacts close and the garage door opener wires are constantly being touched together until the relay has power again. I'd hate to have my power flicker at home and then my garage door opens . I'd rather not have the relay energized until I want to open the garage door. Is that possible with what I'm working with here? That shouldn't happen. The relay itself isn't energized, it's just that the internal timer doesn't run until the trigger input goes low, which should only happen when the camera activates. If you have a home alarm, you could power the relay module off of it, so it has a battery backup as well.

That's why I mentioned setting DIP switch #4 on, so "Timing starts after removal of trigger input", so the operation of the relay triggers when the voltage on it's input goes low (to ground), which is what happens when the output of the camera activates.

Oh okay. Cool. So PIN4 is going to the trigger and the GROUND of the camera is going to ground, then, correct (dont see it labeled on your diagram)? Or does it not matter much? Yes, you are correct. It does matter, the output pin #4 on the camera is designed to pull down to ground. So, when the output of the camera is not triggered, the input of the relay is pulled up to 12 volts through the resistor, and down to 0 volts when the output of the camera is triggered.

Sometimes inputs on relay modules like this are a little flaky without the pullup resistor, but you could certainly try it the way you described first. Even so, you will need a +12 volt DC power supply for the relay module. The diode you mentioned would be needed with a standard relay to protect from inductive backlash, but the Altronix module has a buffered input, and will not require it. This picture is what I intended.

It's true that there is a very small amount of signal degradation in balun conversion; the tradeoff is being able to use a smaller diameter, less expensive cable, often able to also provide power through a single CAT5 cable, and being able to run distances exceeding the limits of regular coaxial cable. For extremely long runs, there are active (amplified) baluns that provide signal boosting, and equalization for the higher frequency attenuation that occurs. Most casinos now utilize twisted pair cable for most or all of their camera systems, even on cameras dedicated for recognizing individual cards. If there was truly that much signal loss, they would be choosing some other transmission method (some are changing to IP for very high resolution cameras, but the majority are still analog). Overall, the difference in signal quality between coaxial cable and (decent quality) baluns at the distances you are running would probably not be noticeable, and probably would require testing the signal with an oscilloscope or similar equipment to discern any difference at all.