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I have done that, just that I couldn't watch both cameras at the same time. I designed a system, whereby I ran one coax, and one 16/3 Belden power cable. My system switched the cameras ( one color, one black/white) via a photocell control, which the photocell switched an Ice Cube relay coil. I don't have this system at home, as I built them for friends who have large property out in the local foothills. Ended up building 5 of them for different property owners. All still working after 3 years now. Switch from color in the day, to b/w at night, via the $7 photocell control. all video and power runs on 1 coax, and 1- 16/3 power cable. Couldn't find one camera to do it, so ran 2 Sony SSC series with the Exview/Exwave. Not sure if you can wire it to watch both cameras at the same time, though.

Or run a 3 conductor cable, 16/3 for example. Each camera has a fused "hot" or "positive", and use one common wire for "neutral" or "negative" , if two cameras are in the same physical location. Only for 24vac or 12vdc . I have never done it, but just a thought.

One reason they are used on CCTV cameras, is that they (photcells) have been around a long time, and are used in many other applications. For the most part, are very reliable. Most street lights use the same photocell principle, as do many other objects. Just a lot cheaper than using a programmable means to do the same thing.

Exactly true. Never "too much current available". Usually too small size wire, too much voltage drop. When you switch on a light in your home, the Power Plant that supplies your city with power, isn't "pushing" it to your home, you are "drawing" it from the grid. When you try to power up that many cameras, are they on the same power feed wire ? I have seen other installers try to wire their customers' cameras in series, believe it or not. The fuses in those ready-made power supplies ( assuming it is 12vdc) are probably in the 1amp range, but check this out for youself. Usually when this many devices ( in this case cameras) do not power up, it is because there are too many things drawing power on a circuit. Check voltage at the cameras, while they are in use.

Try USAGINC.com and their IR Bullets. Very low price range for what you need. I use their BC-102-24B bullets on almost all residential installs, including my own home. For the $$ you just can't beat them. Just my personal opinion. I flat-out can't beat this camera for the price, and I have done a LOT of tests. The salesman I deal with is named Juan. They are locate in Florida. Give them a try.

One big reason I purchased a USB Hardware Encoder. Mine fits in the palm of my hand, and can take the video/audio output from DVR, VCR, etc. and encode it onto my PC/Laptop hard drive. A lot easier sometimes. In fact, when I set my Hardware Encoder to 640X480, I actually think the video looks better than the original , written from the DVR. Just a thought. I use mine all the time, as I have customers, very stubborn, who will not change out their old Time-lapse VCR's, yet want video from them, in order to display on a PC. Go to either Tigerdirect.com or Newegg.com, ( or any other) and check them out for yourself. Good Luck.

Go into the "setup" of the recording program, and insure that the "audio record" is checked, as the only change you made was the capture card itself. Just need to make sure this feature is "enabled".

This is one reason I normally use 16/2 Belden for my cameras. You just cannot "push" more amperage through a wire. You have voltage drop, even with this lower voltage. You just might be pushing the limits with size 18 wire.

I believe only the EB1704 will download to a Flash Drive. You must access the recorded files with a laptop on the 1304 and 1504. That is how I normally do this function. Using the Access software which came with the 1304, access the hard drive for the time of day and date needed. You must follow the instructions on the software disk completely. Then you can change the downloaded file into an AVI file, to allow it to be seen on a PC. The newer EB1704 will accept a Flash drive and download to it. Then you still must convert the file into an AVI file to be able to write it to CD. Not sure if this helped or not.

You are going to find that IR reflects off all sorts of stuff. This is not unusual. Even dust in the air, close to the lens, will reflect IR light. I have to answer the same question to almost all of my customers, especially the ones who live in rural areas. All bugs, critters, wood, leaves, dust, etc. will show up more prominent on these outdoor IR cameras. Did I also mention spiders ? Especially spiders and their webs.

Hey Scorpion, where do you get this Game Camera? In the past, I tried a couple of different ones that just weren't worth the money. I had customers that needed something different. Once in awhile, I have people who need something way out in a barn, etc. that gives a decent picture. Thanks.

I think the "sister" keeps sending me "friend requests" on my Myspace page.

That is what I normally do. A lot easier to implement. Find a used Video Distributiion Amplifier and just run another video cable to each TV set you would like to view the DVR from. Find an adapter, and put the cable into the Yellow RCA jack (video input). When you will be watching TV on regular channels, use the remote control to flash to "AV1" or "AV2", where you have the DVR input. Most the VDA's I find have 4 to 6 video outputs, more than I have ever needed.

I normally use the 2.1mm almost all the time. Most of the 12vdc cameras I buy, also have the same size fitting already wired in . They would be pretty easy to change over, though. I normally purchase them in pairs ( male and female to match).

What you are looking for is a camera from USAGINC.COM, part number BC-102-24B. Something wrong with uploading pictures, as the last several times I have tried to upload pics, get an error message (from this forum ) . Anyway, go to their site, and look at this camera. Use them all the time.Good Luck.

As long as you stay around 1 amp, either 18/2 or 16/2 should be no problem. I myself, normally use 16/2, as I can usually get it for the same price as 18/2 when I "bargain shop". Just remember when you go into an attic or other "enclosed" space, you might be required to use "Plenum" rated wire. Maybe should ask a local electrician about that. Next time you go to your local Home Depot or Lowes, take a look at the pre-made extension cords for sale there. Most people buy them, having no idea that they are mostly 16/2 w/ground , just look bigger, due to all the insulation on them.

I use LED's all the time for different projects. Never have run them in that length, though. Mostly run them on 6 vdc. Can run quite a few of them on a regular 9 volt battery, or tap into an installed power supply. Will try to post some pics.

The only thing I have ever bought from Harbor Freight, and is still working, is my 8 foot windmill I have in my backyard. No one expects much quality when purchasing anything from them. Just a learning experience. Send USAGINC.com and email, and ask about camera pricing. Just from my own experiences, I haven't found a homeowner who is willing to pay $300 per camera. Not after going to a Costco and checking the price on a complete system. Now, maybe if you own a restaurant or a nightclub, you are able to offset the initial costs of a top-of-the-line system. I just noticed the amount you had set aside for your camera budget, and will tell you that the Bullet cameras I mentioned are the best value, for your budget, not for everyones' budget.

The only bender for Rigid conduit , is a Greenlee model Hydraulic/Electric bender ( or similiar ). Use one all the time. Take a look at Aluminum Rigid conduit also, if you can find a local electrical supplier. Easier to thread, and a lot lighter to work with. That Galvanized is way too hard for most people to work with. Now EMT is thin-wall, can buy it at your local Home Depot. When getting past the one inch size, it is very hard to bend, unless you are experienced. EMT with Raintight fittings, would meet most local codes, above ground. Make sure you have a small Torpedo Level, and a good size Raftor Square, in order to make sure your bends are "true".

If that is your "budget" for cameras alone, then you need to contact Juan from USAGINC.COM, and check out their line of Bullet and Mini-domes. I can tell you, without a doubt, that their Bullet BC-102-24B is the best price for the amount you have budgeted. Fast service. They also have a great line of mini-domes. That little Bullet cam, in my own personal home tests, and using friends viewing the "test cameras", have rated that Bullet #1, and has beaten ( in terms of video output) cameras that were almost 3 times as expensive.

Bugs, dust, spiders, etc. I get more complaints from customers about their cameras not working "correctly" in the Summer, until I show them some video of my own on the house. Funny how some things reflect IR, and some don't.

One suggestion of mine to you, as not to confuse you any further. Do not confuse voltage , amperage, and resistance. Buy yourself a decent volt/ohmmeter and get familiar with how to use it. I use mine ( and I own several) everyday. Some of my "higher end" Fluke models, actually generate their own milliamp signals, and can check an incoming milliamp signal also ( my Fluke model 744, H.A.R.T. enabled) . Start out with a nice Fluke model, and teach yourself how to check resistance, voltage, and amperage. Will help you out many times over, in the long run. Good Luck !!

A power supply that is not drawing current is not being used. Next time you find a working power supply, near its' rated capacity, and it is cool to the touch, please let me know. I work with DC power supplies all day long. Mostly in the 90VDC to 480VDC range. 12VDC CCTV power supplies are about the most simple I have ever installed. Always try to use a larger capacity power supply, and do your best to keep it cool.

Never seen such a beast, but would imagine an Acrylic housing, with 2 to 3 psi of Nitrogen kept inside. Would have to weight it down inside the pond, to keep it from moving and floating away. Small Nitrogen bottle, with regulator, but only a few psi, so not too much stress on the Acrylic itself.

The amount of power your camera, PTZ, etc. draws is based upon resistance of the device . Just remember 1 amp, when dealing with 12vdc is not much VA's. Common misconception is that electricity is "pushed" into a motor, camera, etc. Not so. I myself always try to use a much larger Power Supply than is called for. One big reason is heat. When I build my own power supplies for large jobs, I normally use a 9 to 15 amp Sola (manufacturer) power supply. With my ampmeter, I can actually check on the "amp draw" of my project. "MA" or Milliamps are also sort of deceiving. One thousandth of an amp is hard to distinguish, when you have a camera (or other decvice) pulling 300 MA, and another pulling 500ma. Power supplies generate a lot of heat when rectifiing AC to DC. Also lose a little bit on the supply end, in terms of overall power supplied.