Numb-nuts

You can buy a Netgear router for very little money, I would say if there is a chance it might solve your problem, it's definitely worth a go wouldn't you say? I like Netgear routers, they are easy to work with, they are well featured and they port forward very easily which is 99% of what I need to do with routers.

The USB port s only for charging at least thats what I thought? I suppose it's a question of reading the manual but mine was missing the manual when it arrived from China. I got it sent as PDF but honestly I haven't read it yet. Perhaps I should be doing but who has the time?

I have never seen either of these routers, I think probably because I am in the UK, but I have made a note of the video URLs Thanks for sharing...

I concur with your statement that the ST894 is excellent value. If mine hadn't blown a gasket, I'd still be happy to use it everyday. I can still use it for all functions except the display which won't stop flashing on and off when I view varifocal IR cameras. (Not sure why it does it) My new one is fine and I only looked for a new one because of the issues I had. Its still great for Volts, testcard, UTP tester, 12v supply, Video Level meter etc etc PTZ analyzer, control.

Yes, thanks for that useful info

Makes more sense to me now. what you said about covering up the IR leds I think that depending on the particular camera you can actually disconnect the led array (probably) I have to be completely honest here ans say I am not sure what effect your camera might show its just a case of trying it out. Covering the leds would probably not be effective although you could try a little blue tack over the sensor itself. If you do buy an alternative camera look for one with wide dynamic range and Backlight compensation and of course no IR leds

I am rather surprised that not one of these experts has mentioned that the larger the sensor the more light can get to tprocessor Select a 1/2 inch over a 1/3 inch sensor camera, low light day /night with IR filter. I don't remember you saying you wanted to do this on a shoestring. Covering up IR leds is like having a a torch with no batteries. Whats the point? Have you ever thought of announcing the performance is starting on a PA system? Radical solution I know, but it's been done for years with great success. With a screen to watch from the bar, you'll have loads of people hanging around the bar to watch instead of taking their seats

Yes it 's a hard lesson but cheap materials are a false economy. Its's gut-wrenching when I see materials way below what I am paying and everytime I have been tempted. its cost me dearly. Same with BNCs buy cheap they'll let you down buy the best and do it just once. It's taken me years but I think I am finally learning the lesson. (but it's so..... NO BUTS NO EXCUSES)

Usually, no they dont, buy a 2way and an 8way. Does your power supply have enough amps to support the DVR and all eight cameras? Remember if you buy a second Power supply to ensure it is rated 12v DC and is regulated.

HELLO EWAN !

I usually use a special wire stripper designed for the conductor size my fingernails cannot take the punishment and frankly I have so often to strip this cable that I don't mind the expense of a specific tool to do the job. This is an important part of the installation's integrity, thats why I invest in this stripper and no risk of stretching the conductor. When I splice conductors I use IDC jelly crimps because they give a gas tight connection so it makes sense to me to take care when stripping for other connections. I am rationalizing my own method. I cannot comment on the fingernail thing, it doesn't work for me personally.

Oh I see, well that's okay someone will get some benefit from the info hopefully.

with the CCA it'd be better to discard it and rewire in SOLID COPPER conductor. cat5 has to handled with care but cat5 CCA copper coated aluminium or CCS copper coated steeyou are just asking for trouble as both offer a poor signal and handling risks of conduct fracture... And when you solder it it's even more of a risk, just chuck it away and cut your losses I still don't understand where the soldering comes in unless you are referring to repairs again \i say switch to copper its well worth the additional cost. Buy from a reliable reputable supplier in my early days I bought two boxes that advertised as copper but turned out to be CCA. Use a craft knife across one conductor and scrape you'll soon discover if it's CCA. You don't need the hassle of always needing check it thats why I say use a reputable supplier. This is a lesson I learned the hard way and the members on this site soon advised me the correct way so its a pleasure to pass this on to you.

I think they are talking about splicing which is a common practice where we use jelly filled Y2 telecom IDC type splices I am NOT opposed to soldering but soldering on a bench is one thing but baluns are rarely positioned on a bench. Soldering up a ladder or in a dark place or tight spot is not only risky but difficult. Besides dry joint can result from wind cooling the solder too fast. IN THE REAL WORLD... There are both Active and passive baluns, for the most p[art personally I have used passive so thats what I'll describe here. There are single channel Baluns and there are 4 way/ 8 way and 16 way baluns. Usually the 4 8 and 16 way baluns are used just as receivers. Firstly lets talk about single channel baluns which come in pairs, one to transmit one to receive. Mostly these have screw down terminals for the most part but there are also some that have a simple push in terminal. There are recently also some that utilize a IDC connection which in fact is what cat5 was designed for. IDC = Insulation Displacement Connector. Yet other baluns that carry power and audio will have a RJ45 socket when a ready made or "made in situ" cable can be employed. Effectively that's it for single channel With multiway baluns for every four channels there is usually a RJ45 socket (i.e. a cta5 can carry four signals) and this cat5 can take the signal to another unit where another balun sends the signal and plugs in with another RJ45 Unfortunately, it's not always convenient to use all 4 pairs to the other balun in which case the installer can ise a screw down terminal and break out one or more channels for instance when there is a camera local to the balun that need not run to the second balun or for when an amateur technician is wiring up the baluns and doesn't know how to install a RJ45. It is important to note here you can use either the RJ45 OR the screw terminal but not a combination as baluns don't seem to allow this. ( I know, I've tried) What I do is use a RJ45 at the balun end and take a ct5 to a central junction box where also take a DC power supply to and split it 4 ways, I splice to each camera using Y2 jelly crimps to a single incoming pair where the remaining pair are used to carry DC to the camera of course using a single balun at the camera. Works like a dream, saves on wiring and make a neat finish at the DVR end.

Thats entirely possible

Yes you can you set up a user level account and password and only allow permissions to view and playback the particular camera you want them to view You can even do this with the default user account so that the DVR will only display the cameras you want it to when nobody is logged in. This is a permissions level feature. As admin user, make absolutely sure you have a copy of your password hidden away somewhere safe. Another thing about the Atlantis you can also open port 34667 (leave the default in DVR as 34567) and view the DVR on a remote Mac Computer using PSS.

Why don't you ask them?

You will need to have a HUGE mobile phone to display 16 cameras at one time on a mobile phone, because otherwise the images will be smaller than a postage stamps You should use a 10" tablet at the very least for that and there are several apps that will allow up to 16 cameras to view. or get one of these...

If you are using solid copper cat5 it should manage to withstand some reasonable pulling. If you are referring to the connections, the best method is to install RJ45 plugs and plug into the balun receiver. If you are using the screw down terminals then the pressure could fracture the conductors so before installing them into the terminals crimp insulated ferrules on the stripped ends. These are made of malleable copper sleeve and made an intermittent and flaky connection into a rock solid connection. For category5 cable you need 0.25mm sleeves properly crimped they make all the difference however if you are only using them on one occasion, slip them on to the cable end and screw down the terminal, it's not ideal but it does work and means you won't have to buy an expensive crimp tool. I can't comment about soldering but it doesn't sound like a good idea to solder a cable that was designed to be crimped. One other point, about cat5 it needs proper handling, I wouldn't say its fragile exactly, buy you cannot afford to have kinks in it and never stand on it when it is uncoiled on the ground. Treat it with respect and you'll have no problems

Forget relying on third party sites for connection to your DVR. When things go wrong it's impossible to contact anyone for help. The only way you will have any control over this is the standard port forwarding method. The other methods ONLY exist as a marketing solution and a pretty poor one at that.

Re format the drive in a basic dos format, plug back into the DVR it should reformat automatically. Its not recognized just now because it was probably formatted in something other than a basic format. That was completely unnecessary as the DVR is perfectly capable of a format.

Very easy to achieve, just get in someone that know what to do. Like so many others you think CCTV is a plug and play technology and expect to be able to make it work on the internet with no prior knowledge, don't kid yourself. I don't know who told you Zmodo were not reliable or reasonable quality, so far as I am concerned they are just another budget system no better or worse than the way they are set up, but of course its easier to blame an inanimate piece of electronics than to admit you don't have a clue how to do the job. Any technician worth their salt will do this for you within an hour of arriving on site, that is providing your broadband is up to the job.

Denis don't you know when you are being made fun of? Nothing has worked yet and yet they still prolong your ridicule, see it for what it is a practical joke.

Darren I hope that the manufacturer that supplied your clkous server has not abandoned it now. They have made their sales and now moved onto other things and don't want he expense. The only thing yo can do is go the normal route and do port forwarding. I have seen LOTS of clients that can no longer connect for the reason that the server has now served it's purpose and the amnufacturer has abandoned buyer because they no longer want the expense of running a server. Port forwarding of your router's firewall and a static IP or a DDNS hostname are what you need to use.

Its very nice that you make the effort anyway...