liveinxs

I should of mentioned that I need it to be a 24vac system.

 

Thx

i am sure that seller has one...

Hello all,

 

I need a recommendation for an 8 channel power supply that can supply at least 1 amp to each channel for cameras with built in heaters. The unit should be a wall mount box unit and hopefully as compact as possible to fit in a tight spot.

 

Please let me know what you think is best. Hopefully around $100 or less.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

i bought the one in the following link,,this thing is well built, and comes with everything you need, plus shipping was incredibly fast...

i bought this for my 8 channel system , but thought long term, that's why i got this 16 channel unit, allows future upgrades....

and it is half what your looking to spend...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320557376729

thanks for trying to clarify the camera in question, i had a feeling that Soundy hadn't read my post correctly....mistakes happen..

 

the camera did have the pamphlet that was specific to the VFL20S...

 

 

 

Hi. if your VFL20S came with a light blue leaflet and a red and yellow power card. then it is old stock. at least 2 years old. both the VFL20S and the VFL21S were then releast as BNC and UTP so then came with a 15 page manual covering both and the rest in the range were you have the option to buy just BNC or BNC / UTP

 

Yes thanks for confirming what I've been saying about the light blue pamphlet, I know I wasnt losing my mind, I guess it was just old stock possibly. I believe it had a red power plug and a yellow bnc plug.

 

 

its just down to how old the stock is.

 

This manual that's included with the VCM-24VF is 54 pages, titled "Super High resolution 600TVL Owner's Manual", contains instructions applicable to a wide range of different cameras, and packing lists under five categories: "General Dome Camera (A, B Type)", "General Dome Camera (C Type)", "Vandal proof Dome Camera", "Flush Dome Camera (Flush Type)" and "Flush Dome Camera (Surface Type)". Every CNB camera I've installed has included a similar manual; a few have included the pamphlet as well.

 

So again, if your packaging does not include everything it should, perhaps you should check with the seller.

he's talking about the VFL-20s not the VCM-24VF

thanks for trying to clarify the camera in question, i had a feeling that Soundy hadn't read my post correctly....mistakes happen..

the camera did have the pamphlet that was specific to the VFL20S...

Ditto.

that dome is just a vandal Color dome, has a fixed IR cut filter and is not Day Night.

 

 

this post was offered for those who are not so called "experts", it was posted for those like myself who are new to the field, and still searching for answers...

 

true it isn't a True Day and Night, but nowhere does the specs state that it has a "fixed IR cut filter"

A fixed IR cut filter is assumed unless otherwise stated. All color cameras use them, otherwise the IR light will negatively affect color balance and exposure.

 

also, the specs state that it has an "Extra Video Out Port for Installer".....it does not....

The camera should have come with a short lead with a yellow RCA jack on one end and a small plastic two-pin connector on the other end. This plugs into a matching port on the interface board inside the camera. The manual shows the cable on pages 8, 9 and 10 as "Service Monitor Cable". The diagram on page 33 shows the port, labelled "f - Service Monitor Connector" and states, "Use service monitor connector to set camera angle and focus while installing."

 

It doesn't take an "expert" to read the manual.

 

If the camera did not include the cable or manual, you may want to make sure you're buying from a CNB authorized seller.

one more thing, the documentation that came with the camera, consisted of a folded pamphlet, NOT a manual, there was no more then one page, no pages 8,9, 10,,, if your referring to multiple pages, obviously you didn't read my post, the camera i was discussing was the

V F L 2 0 S

Ditto.

that dome is just a vandal Color dome, has a fixed IR cut filter and is not Day Night.

 

 

this post was offered for those who are not so called "experts", it was posted for those like myself who are new to the field, and still searching for answers...

 

true it isn't a True Day and Night, but nowhere does the specs state that it has a "fixed IR cut filter"

A fixed IR cut filter is assumed unless otherwise stated. All color cameras use them, otherwise the IR light will negatively affect color balance and exposure.

 

also, the specs state that it has an "Extra Video Out Port for Installer".....it does not....

The camera should have come with a short lead with a yellow RCA jack on one end and a small plastic two-pin connector on the other end.

 

yes i know what it looks like, it came with my VCM-24VF

 

 

This plugs into a matching port on the interface board inside the camera. The manual shows the cable on pages 8, 9 and 10 as "Service Monitor Cable". The diagram on page 33 shows the port, labelled "f - Service Monitor Connector" and states, "Use service monitor connector to set camera angle and focus while installing."

 

well i looked , saw no area, to plug into on camera...

 

It doesn't take an "expert" to read the manual.

 

your get there one day...give it time...

 

If the camera did not include the cable or manual, you may want to make sure you're buying from a CNB authorized seller.

and the cameras where bought from a authorized dealer, recommended by CNB, the store is called surveillance-video, out of NYC

I dont know if that particular dome costs more than the VCM-24VF or not, but you might also be able to disable the IR on that dome. Sometimes though when disabling the IR the camera stays in BW, depends on the camera. Also if you already have it, then its probably worth keeping, just have to make sure get that rubber ring up tight against the cover each time you make adjustments. The CNB IR Dome I used had a fixed lens so it may differ a little from that one.

well i have been thinking about it, and based on your description of a potential problem , i have decided to go with what i know works, which is the VCM-24VFs instead, and just add the MIR1000 IR, gonna go with that IR, as it appears provides a larger dispersion pattern. 30 degrees....

With that type of dome, it relies on the rubber ring being right up against the rounded edge of the dome cover, else the IR will cause glare back onto the lens. So it becomes a PITA when you have to adjust the camera's gimble, to be sure to make the rubber ring tight against the cover at the same time making sure the rubber does not show in the view (with a wide angle for example).

 

Additionally as mentioned the IR distance does not come close to that of most bullets these days.

 

Its just not an easy type of camera to work with. Ofcourse one could use the Turret style IR dome instead as that has the IR and camera in separate sections instead of just using a rubber ring, though still the IR distance issue and also a PITA to adjust the lens.

 

It gets time consuming and costly to return cameras that are crap or dont work properly, at least from here.

Hey Rory,

thanks for explaining it in a professional manner...i will have to look at that rubber ring, if it looks like its gonna be a future problem, i will just return and go with the VCM-24VFs and separate MIR100 IR illuminators....

the place i buy from, offers free return shipping and has a turn-around time of 4 days....

i am kinda disappointed, i was hoping for another Tip of the day....LOL

Eric

i found these mini-baluns,,,appears to be a very good price...

[edit by mod-store link removed]

The IR in these cameras doesn't work worth a crap compared to even a simple bullet camera. Range is crap and the image quality at night is crap. And now after about 6 months, the image is getting that dreaded cloudy look. Take the dome off and it's fine. Put the dome back on, crap. Clean the dome, no difference. Replace the dome with a new one, no difference. I was never pleased with the night time image when they were new but my customer thought it was fine so I quit messing with them. But now they have gotten worse looking....

I'm now going to have to either replace them or add external IR to get a usable night time image.

 

Tip of the day, don't ever go bare back in a **ore house and don't use dome cameras with IR.

you say "And now after about 6 months, the image is getting that dreaded cloudy look"..meaning it took time to develop this problem, but you say that even with new domes, its still the same...

i don't understand, it took 6 months for the camera to develop cloudy look, but you get it immediately with a new domes...

you say its fine with dome off, but crap with it on, and then you say "I'm now going to have to either replace them or add external IR to get a usable night time image"..

if the image is cloudy, but fine with dome off, why would you want to add additional IR illuminators, if the cameras are cloudy...

surely you aren't going to leave domes off...

Tip of the day, if the cameras are "crap" you return them....you don't wait six or more months....

I wasnt happy with the CNB IR cameras either.

I used 2 of their TDN IR Bullets including one of the more expensive ones (2 still in the field but changing them today) and 1 of the domes . .the dome is okay for the small area I have it in though, in fact their IR Bullets was all I really had issues with.

 

I would suggest using the VCM-24VF or VBM-24VF and then adding IR separately.

thats the second response of , i wasn't happy with the LDM-24VFs. but no one is being specific, just why were they not like able....

well thats my thoughts on the subject, IF they don't work for me, i will return them and go with the VCM-24VFs with separate IRs....

I wouldn't bother with the LDM-24VF either. I put in 8 for a neighbor and am having all kinds of issues with the IR. Basically, the picture at night stinks.

Well I have the VCM-24VF cameras and those things are incredible at night with practically zero light.

The LDM-24VF shares the identical specs as the VCM-24VF, but just has the IRs, outside of attracting bugs, what down side could there be.

The LDM-24VFs even have advanced IR Technology, I guess I will have to wait till I get them and see what the deal is.

Just what problems are you having, so I can look for them, and why haven't you just returned them, for something that might work better for you.

also here is what i received from an Expert at CNB in an email to me...

Dear, Eric.

Since there’s no OLPF (optical low-pass filter) in VFL-20S either MIR3000/ nor MIR1000 will work with on the camera.

With best regards,

*Simply the answer is NO.

Steven,

Ditto.

that dome is just a vandal Color dome, has a fixed IR cut filter and is not Day Night.

this post was offered for those who are not so called "experts", it was posted for those like myself who are new to the field, and still searching for answers...

true it isn't a True Day and Night, but nowhere does the specs state that it has a "fixed IR cut filter"

maybe you can find it in the specs......

also, the specs state that it has an "Extra Video Out Port for Installer".....it does not....

specs:

1/3" IT CCD

Ultra High Resolution : 600 TV Lines

Built in Fixed Lens (f=3.8mm)

Min. Illumination : 0.05 Lux

DNR, Auto White Balance

AGC, SBLC, Flickerless

Extra Video Out Port for Installer

3 Axis Movement for Free Lens Rotation

Vandal-Resistant Dome Housing

Diameter of Bubble : 85mm

IP65

12VDC

Signal System NTSC

Scanning System 2:1 Interlace

Scanning Frequency (H) 15.734 KHz

Scanning Frequency (V) 59.94 Hz

Image Sensor 1/3" IT CCD

Total Pixels 811(H) x 508(V) 410K

Total / Effective Pixels 768(H) x 494(V) 380K

Horizontal Resolution 600 TV Lines

Video Output 1.0V p-p (75Ω, Composite)

S/N Ratio More than 48dB(AGC Off)

Lens Fixed Lens (f=3.8mm)

Min.Illumination 0.05 Lux

AGC, SBLC Auto

White Balance Auto

AGC On/Off (Dip Switch)

Shutter Speed 1/60~1/100,000 Sec.

Supplied Voltage 12VDC

Power Consumption Max. 150mA

Dimensions(ØxH) 85Φ x 77(H) mm

Operating Temperature -10°C~45°C / Humidity 30%~80% RH Weight Approx. 376g

just a heads up, i bought two of the VFL20S cameras the other day, now i had expected that since they were the Monalisa chip cameras, that they would be killer in low light areas, was i wrong, the areas that was lit at night with garage lights looked beautiful, no noise,, BUT the areas that were short on light was totally black, couldn't see a thing..

so i figured i would just add a IR illuminator, was gonna buy the MIR1000, turns out that the VFL20S can't see IR light...really nice, so i packaged them up and i am gonna replace them with LDM-24VF,,,

just thought you would find this review helpful....

When it freezes, does it freeze permanently or just for a little bit. It is quite common for them to freeze every now and then and then come back to normal. You wont notice this as much with higher bandwidths. And remember bandwidth is important at both your DVR and your viewing location. Your DVR is sending multiple video streams simultaneously and with slower bandwidths, you will have the momentary freezes. You probably dont see it on your Iphone because I assume your Iphone app only allows you to view one camera at a time.

 

Your video will be alot more fluid if you use the "secondary stream" or "substream" or "internet stream" (is used in many different terms). Most DVR's have this and I assume that your DVR does too and yours is probably labeled "internet stream". This is a lesser video stream that allows you to view over the internet alot faster and more fluid. You can usually adjust your secondary stream as low as you want too. There is a trade off though, the lower the bit rate, the worst the quality. What I recommend is trying to find that sweet spot where you can get the highest quality without freezing up the video feed too much. Start off with the lowest settings and work your way up from there. Also if you lower your secondary streams frame rate, this helps too. Check your manual on how to adjust your internet stream.

hello,

yes the screen freezes permanently, only way to remedy is to close and restart program...

and yes i am only able to view one channel at a time on iphone...

i looked at the DVR set up menu, i can't seem to locate and setting like the ones you mention, i think i just have to buy a better DVR....

hello

i have a question, maybe someone else has experienced this problem or have some thoughts on what might be causing it and how to remedy the problem...

ok , here we go, presently i am using a DVR that i got as part of one of those ebay specials, its an 8 channel DVR, 6 of the original crap cameras are gone, replaced by CNBs...

i have no idea what make or model the DVR is...

now when i access the DVR online through computer, and have the display in the 9 panel screen, with 8 cameras showing, now each of the cameras displays has the date and time being displayed...

i notice that after several minutes, the display in some of the cameras freezes, and doesn't progress along with the other cameras, this starts out with one camera, then happens to the others...and it happens to different cameras, never the same ones....always changing...

now this happens with all the cameras, the 6 CNB and 2 crap ebay specials...

only way for me to correct this problem, is to close out the program and reopen it, which again it functions fine, for awhile, but eventually the cameras images begin to freeze up again...

just a side note, when i view these cameras on my iphone, the images NEVER freeze..

again, this only happens when i view cameras on computer, using either LAN or Internet, but never happens on iphone or when i view cameras on TV/Monitor...

has anyone ever seen this happen and what can it be...

The unit will give of that red glow if your looking right at it, so it won't be completely stealth. The are nice units. I have a MIR1000 and think it does a decent job for the price. I don't have it mounted anywhere yet though.

i don't have any problem with a red glow, mainly interested in the amount of light that is put out and coverage that is provided....

would anyone have any input or experience with the CNB MIR 3000 IR Illuminator...

was thinking of purchasing a few, instead of Flood Lamps, not for any reason, other then the stealth factor....

thanks

hi,

I m ciku from malaysia n i m running cctv project with my friends.

Recently i've mounted 7 fixed cameras + 1 ptz cameras running on single dvr (8channels) and system works fine till last nite. now the ptz camera cannot be cntrol by dvr( failed to be pan/move/zoom) but the ptz picture is good.

 

later on i tested the ptz with its stand alone cntrol unit(with 485), the ptz can be control, fully without any problems.

 

The distance of cable from PTZ to the dvr is 10 meters. but still it, works fine for past three months.

 

My question is where should i start troubleshooting? and...

Do PTZ rs485 signal traveling issues(cable size, distance of cable, signal form and voltage) is highly significant in performance of ptz controlling.

 

please anyone, Mr. Mrs. Ms. Sir Madam I need helpppppp............

i am no expert, but i would try replacing the cabling....maybe there is a problem with it that you can't visually see...

Think about there being two ways to connect to the DVR from a computer.

 

1 - via the local network - where your computer and DVR are on the same network, or LAN (Local Area Network). Depending on the DVR it can transfer data at 10, 100 or 1000 mbps (most likely 10 or 100 mbps). In this scenario, logon to the DVR using the LAN setting. In effect, your telling the DVR to send data at higher quality because your on a local network that can handle the amount of data transfer required.

 

2 - via the Internet. When connecting via the Internet the bottleneck is the upload speed of the Internet connection the DVR is connected to. Typically I see upload speeds in my area as 350kbps for DSL and anywhere from 1mbps-3mbps for cable. When you logon to the DVR using the Internet setting you're telling the DVR to transfer data at a lower quality setting because you're connecting via a slower connection. The image quality is lower, because less data is being transmitted, however live viewing is smoother than if you connect via the Internet via the LAN setting*.

 

*Note: Lately I've been seeing upload speeds of 20mbps (and higher) in my area as Comcast upgrades their network. I had Comcast Internet service installed in a restaurant a few weeks ago and was blown away by the speed tests. Their upload speed was faster than the download speed in my office. Downloading video from the DVR via the Internet is an absolutle pleasure from that loacation.

thank you,,,very thorough answer....

hello

not sure if i am gonna phrase this right, but, here it goes...

i have a program that allows me to view my cameras/DVR online...now i have two choices, LAN and Internet, now i notice that when i use the LAN setting, the picture, image and movement of images have less jerkyness, and is so much better and clearer, would anyone be able to address why this would be the case....

i really don't understand this LAN vs Internet thing..

thanks

the VCM-24Vf are sick cameras, you can't beat them for the price...

 

Thats dealer pricing though (actually below it) so retail it is much more.

We arent allowed to discuss dealer prices on the public forum ..

yes i understand , thats why i didn't mention from where the camera is being sold for that price...i just meant to say that what i paid, delivered to my door...

We're still using them regularly (well, the VCM version). Still solidly among the best performers in their class.

the VCM-24Vf are sick cameras, you can't beat them for the price...xxx.00, how can you go wrong...

i am ordering two more friday....

Just a heads up, most TDN cameras (bullets and domes) which come with a 2.8-11mm lens typically have most of the same OSD features now. Dont know what it is but its as if there is one person making the blueprint for the OSD feature and the manufacturers customize it, or they all just copy each other

I see, thanks for info...now i notice that this camera come with built-in RS-485, does that allow the changing of camera functions and settings remotely, if so just what type controller would be needed and what type connector and wiring would it require...