Soundy

With that, you could either split the pairs to the camera and heater connections, or jumper them (say, connect incoming wires into the heater terminals, then short wires from there to the camera). According to the specs, the heater only draws a max of 600mA, and the camera, 260mA @ 12V, so you're well under 1A there - as long as the runs aren't too long, you should be fine. I'd probably use three pairs for power and split one of them off to the camera and two to the heater. The VPS units shown use the orange pair for video (assume T568B - green pair for T568A), with green/white, blue, and blue/white for power ground, and green, brown/white and brown for +12V... so the brown pair could go to +12 on the heater, blue pair to ground on the heater, green to +12V on the camera, and green/white to power ground on the camera. For example, that is...

We remove the dome portion (disconnect the rubber keeper), then remove the plastic bubble, and paint the dome ring - it works very well on an old LP turntable with a couple of closely-placed halogen work lights to speed the drying The main body of the camera generally remains unpainted, so that thin strip stays white (we call it a "racing stripe" ), although we have disassembled the camera to pain that portion as well, on one or two occasions where it's been requested.

Got a virus/malware that's screwing with your DNS lookups maybe? Try going direct: http://173.194.33.50

No... most of the ones that do are just cheap junk that are using IR to compensate for poor low-light performance.

http://www.3xlogic.com/prod/599/pro-series-hybrid-video-recorder

How much power does your camera draw? Using this calculator: http://www.netkrom.com/voltage_loss_over_cat5_calculator.html - if you use three pairs for power, and assuming your cameras only draw 300mA, you should only see about .5V loss at that range (keeping in mind that Cat6 is 23ga.) If you're using IR cameras, you'll have to run separate power, or up the supply voltage.

Been working fine for me...?

Um, no... because there are so many variations in network setups and every IP address is unique, such a device would never actually work in the real world.

I thought Axis or Acti or someone had some MP board cams?

Not ENTIRELY... but there is a large component of that, yes. Not unlike the "megapixel race" in photography, with manufacturers constantly touting higher and higher megapixel counts with no considerations for the trade-offs that introduces. My current phone has more MP than my first DSLR, FFS, you'd think it should take better pictures!! All else being equal, yes... although all else is rarely equal.

Have you fiddled with the PnP settings in the BIOS - toggle the "Plug'n'Play OS" setting or whatever your specific BIOS has along those lines?

Well, If someone was looking for a Geovision card, they might ask on the forum where they should order their card from. Then, someone would give them a link to go check out, and that person might go to the link, order the card, and then they would be paying a lower price than if they just started searching the net randomly. But since we can't post those links, we can't help people get better deals on Geovision cards. For the most part, LEGITIMATE GV cards run around the same price anywhere you look. Most of the "better deals" you'll find on the 'net are counterfeit/gray-market cards. And since those are illegal and a professional forum has to be seen to NOT condone illegal activity, any posts about those are immediately deleted. You can make all the hypothetical arguments you want; fact is, the rules are set and have been for a long time, and have served this place well since long before you came along. You can live within them, or go elsewhere. Or, as rory says, try to convince the owner to change them... but arguing about it here won't change anything. The mods are here simply to enforce the rules, not to debate them.

Maybe post some of the pictures you've got now...?

Cost is not an issue? Hmmmm... viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11322&start=83 Honestly, unless the camera is 100m away, you should be able to get a super-clear picture of a 10x20m area (providing, again, it's a proper megapixel lens). Try identifying a "choke point", a limited area that everyone/everything you want to identify will have to pass through, and then zoom in to limit the field of view to that area.

Perhaps you'd be better off forgetting the card and just going to a megapixel IP system. Software compression card at CIF with basic cheap analog dome: 1.3MP IP camera (cheap dome visible at bottom-left - click image for full size): Same card at 4CIF/D1 with similar cheap analog dome: Indentical 1.3MP camera (click for full size):

How large an area are you covering with these cameras? What distances are the plates and faces at? Are you using the appropriate megapixel lenses? What is the budget to get this done?

Other than "weakest link" theory, not really. Nope, never. The limitation (or weakest link) lies mainly in the analog video standards used - NTSC supports a maximum of 486 visible lines of resolution (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NTSC#Lines_and_refresh_rate) The only way around it is to use a different, all-digital transport method, such as IP or SDI, or to go to a component-video capture card (I think I've seen one or two, EVER... single-channel, designed for HDTV use).

How do the rules on this privately-run forum have ANYTHING to do with the price of GeoVision cards??? The "model" of GV card has nothing to do with it - megapixel support is purely a factor of the software. No card is required at all to record IP cameras. Don't limit yourself to 1080p, either - that's 2MP at best. 3MP and 5MP cameras are common, and some are available up to 16MP.

STP is overkill unless you're dealing with REALLY noisy environments. It also tends to cost up to 3x as much as unshielded (you're probably paying a buttload extra for those "gold plated" plugs, too).

This site is supported by advertisers - reputable retailers who pay money to have their banners displayed. When people post links to other (often questionable) online retailers, it takes business from them. If they don't get the business, it's not worth their money to advertise, they stop paying for that ad space, and the site gets shut down because the bills don't get paid. The alternative would be for the site owners to charge users for access... which would you prefer? Don't confuse these types of forums with democracies - they're not. They're dictatorships under the ultimate control over the person who has to cover the bills and does all the work to create them and keep them running. They're little private sandboxes, each with their own rules. All that aside... They do. You have to use IP attached cameras. As has already been covered, analog video standards don't support higher resolutions than D1 - that's not a GeoVision thing, all analog DVRs have the same limitation.

http://www.cam2life.net/

Wonder if they bought their cameras from Costco??

You can access the MJPEG stream from IQEye cameras directly from a URL - I'll PM you a link.

My understanding of the term is that true has a switchable IR filter. I have some cameras that are non true "day-night" and all they do is go to b&w at night. And some non true have IR filters some don't. Your understanding is correct. Typically, digital sensors are all sensitive to IR wavelengths, particularly as you just get out of the visible light range. IR wavelengths have two detrimental effects on your image: they throw off the color balance and exposure (a scene with really strong IR might end up under-exposed because the camera is compensating for that extra "brightness" that won't be visible to you, for example), and they tend to focus differently than visible light, meaning you can end up with a soft image. But the color caste is usually the main problem you'll see on a color camera with no filter (Rory's posted several pictures elsewhere of how this looks - everything is really green-ish). To avoid these issues (especially the color balance problem), color cameras typically have an IR cut filter over the sensor, to block the IR. B&W cameras don't need the filter because the color balance isn't an issue, which is part of the reason they tend to have better low-light response to begin with. A simple day/night camera will often leave the IR cut filter out and switch between color and B&W, but without the cut filter, it merely attempts to compensate for color balance issues electronically. "TDN" cameras have the filter on a mechanism of some sort that will physically move the filter out of the way when the camera switches modes, thus giving the best of both worlds: better low-light response when they go to B&W, and proper color reproduction in day mode. They also typically require special "IR-corrected" lenses, which have optics and coatings to compensate for how the different wavelengths focus.