Soundy

Depends on the type of paint, too... latex should come off fairly easily with something like isopropyl alcohol. Oil-based paint will be more work. If it's glass, you can use acetone (aka nail polish remover). DO NOT use acetone on any sort of plastic, though, unless you like your cameras looking like they're looking through a frosted bathroom window or something.

Both fit an RJ-45 jack, but Cat6 is a larger wire than Cat5e (23ga. vs. 24ga.), so Cat6 probably won't fit into most Cat5e plugs, and Cat5e might be loose in a Cat6 plug (and may not get good contact, depending on the blade design). I'm not sure if it's part of the Cat6 spec, but all the Cat6 I've worked with has been stranded as well, as opposed to solid core... that generally requires a different blade design in the plug, too.

Any particular reason for going with multiple separate switches, over just one bigger switch? We use the Cisco SFE1000P extensively, which is a really solid managed unit with eight 10/100 PoE ports and two GbE/miniGBIC combo ports... there's also the SFE2000P, which is a 24+2-port version of same, and the SFE2010P, for a 48+2-port version... based on experience with the 1000, I wouldn't hesitate to use or recommend the larger versions.

I googled "NETGEAR DG834G" and the third link (after two Wikipedia entries) was Netgear's page for this router: http://kb.netgear.com/app/products/family/a_id/1288 Select the proper version from that, and you can download the manuals, firmware updates, etc. That's because there's not a webserver on that port - that's the port the web viewer uses to communicate with the DVR. You should be connecting on port 80 with your browser and running the webviewer (not familiar with this DVR, but it probably requires an ActiveX control be installed, which means it will only work in Internet Explorer); it then communicates over port 50000. If you're just viewing this from your LAN, no port forwarding is necessary.

It's easy if you use computers with the DVR's remote client or web viewer... without could be tricky, and will really depend on the DVR and its specific capabilities. What is the DVR's exact make and model (note: "H.264" is not a model number)? By "remote control devices" do you mean the wireless IR remote for the DVR?

If VLC can play a file, it should be able to re-stream it...

18ga. is a bit small for a run that long, especially if they're running a 12VDC camera - I expect "surges" isn't a problem, but power dropouts. I'd suggest using AT LEAST 16ga. wire, and if it's not possible to power the cameras locally, using an adjustable power supply, measuring the voltage at the camera (WITH the camera connected and running) and dialing up the voltage at the other end until you get the appropriate 12V at the camera.

Yeah, those definitely aren't power connections. To connect the coax, you have to strip it so the center conductor goes under/around the silver screw in the middle, and the shield clamps under the curved clamp at the bottom (see attached photo). To power it, you need Panasonic's WV-PS10a "drive unit". There are several on fleaBay, running around $100-$170. Probably not worth it...

^Remind me to fire my agent

Is there anything on the camera that resembles power markings? The pictures I found online show screw-and-clamp terminals for the coax, and three screw terminals below that... do they have labels at all??

I think the output power in this case is limited by the splitter - PoE+ would likely provide no benefit. http://www.dlink.ca/DWL-P200

P=VI. 12V * 1A = 12W. BTW, those ratings are MAX wattage for the cameras... in basic use it will probably be somewhat less. Edit: In other words, you're probably okay... max current draw would happen if, say, something impeded the camera while it was trying to move.

%subject%

If memory serves, this camera is powered over the coax, and requires a special Panasonic power supply... if you don't have that supply, you may be SOL. If you do, and the camera is working, then you'll need some sort of video-capture device for your PC - TV-tuner card with composite input, DVR card, USB DVR adapter, etc.

VLC might...

Wow, everyone's so doom-and-gloom all of a sudden! neon5, don't let them scare you - it's really not that complicated. You give the camera an IP, you enter the IP in the VMS/NVR, set your recording parameters, and away you go. If you're comfortable with networking and have a basic understanding of TCP/IP, it should be a snap. It's definitely recommended for the cameras to be on their own network, but with a small setup, it's not the end of the world if you have to start your first couple cameras on existing infrastructure and move it to a separate network later. You're talking about a (small-ish?) grocery store - if all your network is carrying is some POS data, maybe your debit machines and a little internet surfing in the back office, you're not going to notice a problem until you get a few cameras going. Not sure what tom's comment is about, "if you dont want your network secured" - if your cameras/NVR/VMS on on a completely separated network, they're plenty secure, unless someone brings a laptop into your store and plugs into the switch...??? I also disagree (somewhat) with the statement you should chose your cameras first and VMS second - it should be a combined process. If you chose your cameras first, you could end up limiting your VMS options, especially if you're mixing different brands of cameras. If you chose the wrong VMS, you could sharply limit your camera options. You need to look at both and compare what's supported before choosing either.

Would depend on the power rating of your splitter - PoE spec only provides up to 15.4W, so it would be pretty close to the max. Firassh, he's talking about using a PoE splitter at the camera end - it pulls the power off the PoE line and knocks it back down to 12VDC (or whatever the particular splitter is designed for).

What's the exact make and model of this system? Most WILL NOT supply power on the alarm output; it's just a relay output. Try running the power supply - wire to the siren's - wire, then the power supply + to the output +, and the output - to the siren +. I assume it's a 12VDC siren... are you using a 12VDC power supply? Does the siren work if you connect power to it directly?

Four years later, I'd hope they would have sorted it out by now!

The bulk of MP cameras are far higher resolution than "True HD", so unless you're spending stupid money for an ultra-high-resolution LCD, your cameras are being scaled down for display anyway. The monitor has NO bearing at all on the recording quality and in general as long as you have a "decent" model, is of fairly low consequence.

You looking for JUST the case, or a complete machine? Shuttle has a lot of really nice, compact machines: http://shuttle.com/

the cost of any software licence is probably just integrated into the total cost, or is it that cheap? Like I said, "'The price of them' includes the software licenses that you'll be paying extra for if you build your own".

I don't have direct experience with QNAP's NVR systems, but I have used their NAS boxes extensively (anywhere from the 4-bay towers to the 8-bay rack units). Setup in those is very simple and straightforward and largely wizard-driven. They have a demo system linkable from their website; if memory serves, it lets you play with the basic interface, and you can request admin access to check out the configuration options.

Sounds more like a contrast issue than white balance. Can you post some sample pictures from both cameras?

All depends on how deeply the software integrates itself into the system. Keep in mind if you're moving hardware as well, you'll need the drivers for that...