Soundy

Dunno if there's any such adapter, as there seem to be MANY MANY variations on the design to begin with, but you could make one fairly easily by pulling the one that comes with it off the board and soldering it to a breadboard along with the screw terminal strip...

Not familiar with Zmodo, but it sounds like some sort of cheap eBay junk... which would mean the card itself is probably of questionable design and iffy construction, with so-so software and really spotty drivers... any or all of which could be the cause of your problem. The error would tend to indicate driver or software issues; if it's the driver, that would certainly account for the card not recognizing any input. You don't mention anything about your PC's specs, including CPU and version of Windows, but googling that error message led me to an older post on this forum: about18357.html - looks like AMD CPU and Vista may both be suspects in that thread.

Chances are the traveler already has some extra wire pairs in it, too, so if you're just adding an analog camera, you may be able to use what's already there... but that, too, is probably a question for the service company.

I would guess from that description, that the zoom is NOT remote-controllable, either... but hard to say for sure without at least a make and model number to look up.

No, wrong thread... oops

Thanks!

Not terribly worried about mirror image, BTW... in fact, reverse image might be preferable. The idea is for the monitor to show a separate ID camera, enticing people to see they're on the monitor and look at it more closely, without realizing there's a camera IN it looking back at them. Given we're talking about an upscale restaurant/lounge, having the image move "backward" from the person's movement is probably more likely to draw in the drunken goofs or showoffs

Found a couple others by Pelco and Orion... they're not cheap either. Got a link for the Vista? All google gives me is Windows links. F**king Microsoft, usurping everything.

Oh, AND... it needs to be able to accept input from a different camera - customer wants the internal camera to feed the DVR, and the monitor to display a different camera. Easy, right?

no one has jumped to conclusions. we understand he has a bad roll of cable. but other have also picked up power at 650ft (200m) is also going to be a problem with power on 12v dc And jumped to the conclusion that it IS a problem. Until the coax is fixed, the *possibility* is the least of his concerns.

Loving how everyone jumps to conclusions, obviously before reading all the way through the original post.

The DVR needs to have its own unique IP. DHCP is the easiest way to do that (so it will get all the relevant info from the router). Enable DHCP, and the settings menu should then show you what IP the DVR has (depending on the exact router, it will probably be an address in the 192.168.0.* or 192.168.1.* range, with a Gateway of 192.168.*.1). Whatever IP the DVR gets, you would then plug that into the remote software installed on the PC. The DVR won't recognize the computer; once the DVR is configured, you'll be doing the rest of the work on the computer.

Like Rory says, there may be differences... but a lot of times manufacturers use slightly different terms or acronyms for exactly the same damn thing, just for sake of sounding like they have something special.

Tell the IS guys to get off their asses and upgrade your 10-base2 network already

There should be a "video clip" button on the main display window in the browser interface, you can record an AVI from there and check the output in VLC (it will tell you the actual framerate, among other stats). I have a couple set up here, if I get the chance, I'll test them in a bit - right now I have the two of them and a 2MP HIKvision cam all linking to my network via DD-WRT wireless bridge, so I'm not getting anywhere near full speed out of them.

except when the clients change their mind on what they want to see when you go install the cameras. Or when walls, fixtures, or millwork move between the time YOU get the plans you design from, and the contractor gets the plans he builds from (nevermind the changes that are inevitably made on-site, on-the-fly...)

Another idea is to use a keystone jack, like this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keystone_module The punchdowns are color-coded, so you just need to match the wire colors. Some models require a punchdown tool, others don't... the kind you find at places like Home Depot usually don't.

Probably because cycling through cameras isn't a very popular option compared to simply displaying them all on a split-screen - if you're cycling four cameras on a 10s delay, each camera will be visible for 10s and then off the screen for 30s, which isn't very useful. I just don't expect it's a priority for most systems.

If you already have the computer connected to a router, then you need a second ethernet cable to connect the DVR to the router as well - the DVR and computer can then communicate that way. A crossover cable is needed only to connect the two directly if there's no other network connection available.

Ummm, tom... I don't think you read the original post very clearly: he didn't sell this DVR, he's one of the users... and replacing it at this point won't help him with his quest to extract already-recorded video. Nowhere does he mention wanting video for the police, either. ethasca, yes, you need to connect the DVR to your computer - doing it through a switch (or the LAN ports on a router) is probably easiest; otherwise you might need a crossover ethernet cable to connect them directly. The included remote software should allow you to pull recorded video from the DVR.

Looking at the manual, it does not appear there's any way to control this camera by joystick. Since the camera doesn't accept direct RS-232/485 input, you'd have to use software with it that accepts input from a standard computer joystick. It doesn't appear that the bundled software will do this, and with this being a consumer-grade "webcam", there's probably little or no third-party software support for it.

Unfortunately that doesn't help, as it doesn't tell us what the overall capabilities of the system are. How are you connecting "USB to USB"? Most DVRs have only USB-A ports, the same as the computer, designed for plugging in external storage. When computers are connected by USB-A-to-A "crossover" cables, both computers also need the software and drivers to support direct transfers... your DVR likely won't have that support. The name "Network Digital Video Recorder" suggests you should be able to access it from your PC over a network connection... with standalone DVRs, that's usually the most efficient way to do it.

Pelco IS90 and Panasonic WV-CW484/CW502, just off the top of my head...

OP: when we were building our own VideoInsight DVRs, most of the machines we used had pretty similar specs to what you list above. At the time, they were pretty skookum; there's no reason the specs wouldn't work as well now as they did then.

Most likely reasons are video noise from the low-light image being boosted too much, or flying bugs being attracted to the IR. Too much dust in the air could do it too, as dust tends to be very reflective to IR.