Soundy

I've run into a couple of VCM-24VFs now that had similar symptoms: signal output, but no picture, just black (or very dark), looking kind of like when you close the iris right down. On the latest one, it appears to be loose wires or maybe a loose component on the back of the camera module - where all the wires come off the back, if I push or nudge on them, the picture comes back (I haven't had a chance to test the other bad one yet). I want to troubleshoot them to see exactly what the problem is, but being brand-new, I know they should probably just go back for warranty replacement

Sounds pretty ghetto-fab Personally, rather than messing with the mirroring thing, I'd do something like this to achieve (about) the same ends: Build your DVR with only a small-ish drive: OS, software, video-search database... Use or build an external drive array for the video storage, that you can tuck away somewhere safe. Attach the storage array via network, using iSCSI, rather than USB or eSATA. Once the DVR is configured and working, use a disk-imaging program (Paragon, Acronis, DriveImage, Ghost, etc.) to create a backup image of the DVR. Store this on an external drive, on a DVD, and/or on your array. This way if the DVR drive goes blooey, or if the DVR walks off, you can easily just re-image it and be back up and running. For an array, you can use something like QNAP, Synology, Drobo, or other similar commercial units... or if you're into the DIY, you could use FreeNAS on any old machine you have kicking around. For data redundancy, you could then run RAID1, or if you have enough drives, RAID5 or 6, on your NAS.

An NVR *should* be cheaper, in general, than an analog or hybrid DVR, because it needs no capture hardware. Yeah but not compared to the average stand alone these days. We get these stand alones for less than the cost of a PC now. You could build your Exacq NVR on something like this... CDN$260: http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=55865&vpn=XS35-702&manufacture=Shuttle

An NVR *should* be cheaper, in general, than an analog or hybrid DVR, because it needs no capture hardware.

We always buy by the 1000' box, but Noramco has given me the option to order larger spools. Applies to just about any type of cable that they stock in the warehouse.

Yeah the live video looked really nice, as if I was plugging the camera directly into the monitor. The network video looks just like the recorded video, blocky All that means is that it's piping the live video straight to the display, rather than displaying the compressed video.

Interesting... I wonder if that seller spends any time here? If he did, he'd know that aside from a very few specific exceptions, we all tend to recommend against buying ANY CCTV equipment from fleaBay Anyway, welcome aboard!

I ran that picture through some Photoshop tricks and managed to make out a brand name: "Craptastic".

^WTF???

This is true only of SOME power supplies...

Don't forget the cost of the NVR software itself. There are some free options out there, but they're pretty limited. FUD. Yes, it's true, if you look at an analog camera on a regular monitor, movements in front of the camera will be seen immediately, while with an IP camera, there will be a slight delay between the movement and when you see it, due to the fact that the camera is digitizing and compressing the video before sending it out. However, since most of the time you'll be looking at recorded video of an event minutes, hours or even days after that event happened, does a few hundred milliseconds' delay REALLY matter? 99.9% of the time, the answer is no.

Will be interesting to see the difference under truly extreme backlighting conditions. I've seen a lot of instances where lesser cameras are fine and people question the extra cost for the SDIII... but then there are the times when, for example, you get a "stylish" restaurant with a dim interior, and bright summer sun shining through a glass door, and you want to get a clear shot of the person's face coming in the door, and the lesser camera just doesn't do the job.

I didn't know it was an exclusively Canadian joke... of the variety, "Where'd you get your driver's license, out of a Cracker Jack box?" Based on the invariably cheap little toys they'd include in the package. Kinda like the old, "I bought a Geo Metro once. Well, I didn't actually buy it... it came in a Happy Meal."

24AWG is extremely fragile. Many alarm installers refuse to use CAT5 for alarms because it is so easy to nick during stripping which can lead to a break. Also, just because he put a small load at the end of 900 feet does not mean it should not be able to support a larger load for code compliance. Bottom line, I seriously doubt a building inspector would sign off on this. Best, Christopher The point was that the cable technically IS rated for sufficient voltage level to run 120V over... and that that with other factors, at least taken individually, COULD be argued to make the job legal. There are plenty of other factors that AREN'T legal, and just because something is legal doesn't mean it's smart... the point was merely that not all aspects of the install are necessarily illegal. BTW, I've had solid 16/2 cores break with just a tiny nick as well; I've also had badly-nicked Cat5 that held up to a lot of flexing before it broke. It's not THAT fragile... And no, I don't expect any building or electrical inspector in the civilized world would approve this install, either.

Yeah but do they have those in Maui? Is his state laws different from the mainland or similar? Dont have them here. But we are a totally different country. It's still part of the USofA; the National Electrical Code still applies.

It's tricky, because looking at everything involved, it COULD possibly construed as legal. Basic cat5e insulation is typically rated for 300V. "High voltage" under the National Electrical Code is defined as anything over 600V. Together it could be argued that running 120V over UTP is acceptable... Proper conduit for burial is another matter, though. And it still sounds really ghetto.

I was about to suggest we all sign up and weigh in

I love the "exposure window" on the IQ cameras. Most also have Motion, Privacy, Crop, and in some cases, AWB selection windows, to let you fine-tune the operation. Some models not only let you set an "include" window for exposure, but an "exclude" area as well (so it ignores those areas when determining exposure).

Welcome! Always nice to see manufacturers representing in a capacity other than just spamming for sales!

Actually, 1.8W at 12V is only 0.15A (150mA).

Hmm, true too... but at least he DID check, even if he had no idea what he was looking at Come on, just trying to give the guy SOME props, no matter how small...

640x480 is 0.3MP... so how would you EXPECT that to compare to >1MP? 1.2MP is 1280x960, or FOUR TIMES the resolution. By definition, it's simply not possible for analog capture to give the same detail as megapixel. Now, there are other factors that play into overall image quality, and it certainly is possible for a high-end analog camera to provide better overall results under certain circumstances. An analog camera with a high-quality lens is definitely capable of producing better pictures than a megapixel camera with a crappy lens, for example. I have yet to see a megapixel camera (at least not at any sort of real-world price point) that can handle severe backlighting like a Panasonic SDIII. But all else being equal...

I've seen something like that on a CRT that had a failing flyback I've also seen it on PCs with failing video cards. Since this isn't a CRT, I'd have to guess the latter: the DVR's display adapter is flaking out.

At least dude thought to check whether it was legal... whether it's smart or not is a whole other matter. Ghetto-fab, baby!