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This is probably something you should phone AT&T support about. Many DSL providers require a login and password, others require that your computer's hardware address be registered on their system before they let you access the "outside world". Your best bet would be to check with them that everything is set up and working properly.

Welcome aboard, from just across the 49th

The alternative would be a regular PTZ camera... a remote-zoom lens is of limited utility if you can't aim it, as you'll only be able to zoom in on a single spot.

This is key - it's an auto-iris lens, meaning in bright light the iris closes down, which gives you greater depth of focus... so something at a certain distance may be in focus over a wide range of adjustment. When it gets dark, though, the iris opens up and lowers the depth, so a much narrower range of distances are in focus, and the distance that you set the focus at in the daytime may now be out of focus. I always focus cameras in daytime covering the lens with a #6 welding filter, that allows the iris to open enough to get a decent night focus with bright daylight. Great tip! " title="Applause" />

Depends entirely on the dome. I've seen some that won't get closer than 15-degrees to the wall, and some that would look back down at the wall.

Judging from the installation instructions, this lens doesn't accept control signals from the keyboard... it has only drive inputs for the motors. You could control each motor by applying the proper voltage to the proper pins, but you'd need additional modules to actually decode the Pelco protocol the keyboard is providing, and then drive the motors from that.

The problem with getting your pricing "on the internet" is that internet sellers generally have little overhead and no requirement to provide after-sale support. Local providers are usually brick-and-mortar operations, which means they have to cover overhead, and if something goes wrong, you'll usually be expecting them to come back and fix it under some sort of warranty, so they have to build all that into their prices. Online sellers will also often just have your order drop-shipped, so they have no stocking charges, while locals often have to cover the cost of stocking the product. A lot of internet sellers also bypass a lot of distribution levels, which saves them money. For example, you can get some CNB cameras from online sellers (which may or may not actually be manufacturer-authorized sellers) for around $160... but if you wanted to buy them from me (here in Vancouver, Canada), after they go from the distributor, across the border to our reseller, with duty, taxes and exchange, he adds his markup, and we add ours, I have to sell them for around $350 just to make anything on them. It's fine to want to save money, but recognize that there are valid reasons for local suppliers to cost more.

Many cable companies will actually assign a channel in their lineup with no signal, specifically for inserting a camera signal. On mine, channel 399 is listed as "SECAM - Security Camera" - I'd just need a modulator pre-set to that channel, rather than an expensive user-configurable model.

Thewireguys is right, in most cases there's no need to change port numbers on cameras. Some cameras use multiple ports, which could only add to the confusion, and with some the port will vary depending on the protocol used. For a switch, take a look at the likes of the Cisco/Linksys SFE1000P - eight 10/100 PoE ports and two gigabit ports. No cameras currently available use gigabit (at least none that I'm aware of), so you can usually save some money by NOT getting an all-gigabit switch (this one retails for around $300 here); the two GbE ports are perfect for connecting your DVR/NVR and adding a NAS, or uplinking to the rest of a GbE network. If you have more cameras than that, the SFE2000P is a 24+2 version of the same concept.

I guess I shouldn't say "any"... 9VAC RMS would rectify to 12.6V P-P, so some may be designed with a 9V transformer instead. Either way, variations in INPUT voltage will still be translated to variations in output voltage, unless the unit specifically says it's regulated.

ANY transformer-type will read ~16V unless it's regulated. Doesn't mean there's anything wrong with it, that's just the way they work. We used them like that for years... most of the ones that come with cheap cameras are the same. It's not a big deal, because most "12V" electronics are designed with tolerances to account for the "overvoltage". For the most part now, we're using switching-type adapters, which are inherently regulated, and tend to be smaller, lighter, cooler, more reliable, and cheaper.

BTW whats a 16-17VDC wall-wart? Do you mean an AC Adapter? If so what type gives 16-17VDC? Have you ever actually measured the output of an unregulated transformer-type "12VDC" adapter? A typical design for a 120VAC-input design uses a 10:1 transformer to step 120V RMS down to 12V RMS... 12V RMS equates to 16.8V peak-to-peak... when you run that through a bridge rectifier and a filter capacitor, you end up with around 16VDC. Regulated supplies add a regulator, typically similar to the 7808 pictured above (for up to 1A output).

Here in Canada, at least, a "voltage regulator" in CCTV means the thing that gives you a clean 12VDC instead of 16-17VDC out of a wall-wart....

Traditionally, a "voltage regulator" is ANYTHING that regulates voltage, AC or DC, single component or complex circuit. This is a voltage regulator: As is this: And these: This is one too: BTW, Tripp Lite doesn't have any products that they list as "voltage regulators". Their site lists Uninterruptable Power Supplies (aka UPSs or battery backups), which I believe is what you're talking about, and Surge Suppressors (among other things), but nothing that's specifically marketed as a "voltage regulator". APC lists UPSs and "Surge Protection and Power Conditioning", but nothing that they actually call a "voltage regulator".

One would think the definition would be self-explanatory:

If Comcast is like most broadband ISPs, you don't need an email address on the account or even a login for the SMTP server... they limit spam by only allowing SMTP relaying from their own network. You'd just need to use Comcast's SMTP server, probably no encryption, port 25... likely something like smtp.comcast.com. Check with their online support page, they should have server info for "generic" email clients.

Stupid question, but have you enabled SMTP access on your Gmail account? SMTP, POP3 and IMAP are not enabled by default in Gmail...

Keep in mind that these panoramic cameras require special processing of the images they put out, to stitch and de-warp the multiple cameras feeds. With some NVRs, that capability requires additional licensing as well, IF it supports it. You'll want to make sure the cameras are fully supported.

It's not a complicated circuit, really: a bridge rectifier, a couple filter caps, a voltage regulator IC, a heat sink, and maybe some voltage-divider resistors if you want to make it adjustable output... http://www.circuitstoday.com/fixed-positive-voltage-regulators

We have LOTS of retail clients (two major gas-station chains), and none of them want to pay for that level of redundancy... suffice to say, there are lots of instances where they go to look for video only to find it's not there, either because a drive has failed, or the system has stopped recording for some reason, and nobody noticed the constant beeping and error popup. RAID5 is a good way to help ensure data integrity... just keep in mind that you need some sort of error reporting to let you know if a drive fails, so you can replace it right away, because if a second drive goes at that point, you lose ALL of it.

All an "IR corrected" lens does is eliminate the need to refocus between day and night modes. IR focuses shorter than visible light, so if you focus a camera in "day" mode, when it switches to night mode and the IR cut filter flips out of the way, the IR light it captures will be focused slightly in front of the sensor, and the IR-produced images will be fuzzy. An IR-corrected lens (which I'm guessing, "day/night lens" is just another term for) is designed to correct for this quirk of physics. What's more likely causing your camera to go fuzzy at night is the loss of depth-of-field caused by the iris opening up under low light. In bright light, with the iris closed down, you'll be getting more DOF - so, for example, you may focus the camera at 50' but everything between 25' and 60' is also in focus; when it gets dark, though, and the iris opens up, your area of focus may shrink to only points between 45' and 55'. Something at 35', for example, would then be in focus during the day, but go soft at night.

Make sure IIS isn't running and conflicting?

Does Exacq have its own httpd, or is it using IIS on Windows?