Soundy

- You stated "internet speed 3 Mbps". Is that upload or download? What are the bandwidth specifications from both sites (upload and download)? Also, is that the ISP's CLAIMED speed, or is that ACTUAL speed? If you're on DSL, you do start to lose bandwidth beyond a certain distance from the head-end. Use a site like www.speedtest.net to check your ACTUALY upload and download speeds.

Are you considering the amperage a the source when you are making this recommendation? With a power supply that has 1A at the source with 28VAC and with 16 gauge cable, your voltage drop will be around 9V at the receiving end, which will be around 18-19V available for the camera. I do not think camera will perform correctly. If someone uses 12 gauge cable and pushes 1A with 28VAC at the source, then the camera receiving end could get roughly 24VAC (voltage drop will be roughly 4VAC) according to the chart with Altronix... In the real world this could be slightly different, but not much... Higher amperage power supply will improve the voltage drop per 100' on type of gauge cable... It all depends on the current draw on his cameras. If he is using a 24vac camera that only draws 250mA with 28VAC power supply he should have no problem hitting his distances of 1100ft What I've also done (in this case, to power a remote network switch) was to feed 24VAC to the remote location, then adde d a small board-type power regulator to provide the final DC voltage I needed (5V/2A for this one... current draw at 24VAC works out to around 400mA).

I look forward to replacing all my Axis cameras and video server. The cameras have poor low-light performance, and the Q7404 is fine (if you overlook the lack of SSL), but D1 resolution is so yesterday. Best, Christopher Oh, well, send me all of them, then... I'll see that they find good homes

Interesting... my ISP doesn't require SSL on their SMTP server... they simply don't accept relay connections from outside their own network.

^Yeah, I was thinking maybe the camera itself wasn't handling DNS lookup properly. Guess that's not it though. What you could try, is using an SMTP server on your own LAN, and pointing at that... I've used this one before, the free version should be sufficient for testing: http://www.softstack.com/freesmtp.html It has a live status display that will show you when a client connects, so you can see if the camera/server is actually communicating with it.

Send me one and I'll figure it out for you

Anyone tried setting up their own SMTP server right on their LAN and pointing to that? Are you using the FQDN of your SMTP server, or the IP? It's possible, if the device's DNS lookup doesn't work right, that the FQDN lookup isn't finding the server. Try entering the IP instead - to get that, use a computer on the same network, open a command window (Start -> Run -> type CMD) , and enter "ping ". You should get four responses with the IP... similar to this: Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7600] Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved. C:\Users\Soundy>ping shawmail Pinging shawmail.cg.shawcable.net [24.71.223.43] with 32 bytes of data: Reply from 24.71.223.43: bytes=32 time=381ms TTL=123 Reply from 24.71.223.43: bytes=32 time=274ms TTL=123 Reply from 24.71.223.43: bytes=32 time=452ms TTL=123 Reply from 24.71.223.43: bytes=32 time=351ms TTL=123 Ping statistics for 24.71.223.43: Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss), Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds: Minimum = 274ms, Maximum = 452ms, Average = 364ms

Depends how your space is allocated. Your average standalone may be low-profile, but tends to have a much larger footprint than a PC tower.

From the eBay article: If there's no serial... question answered right there. If there is, you can contact GV and ask them if it's legit.

Panasonic SuperDynamic III... look into the WV-CP484 (box) or CW484 (dome). Which CNBs did you try?

Someone actually posted a handy article on eBay, regarding fake GV cards: http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Beware-fake-Geovision-DVR-Cards_W0QQugidZ10000000011605293

Yes, you can connect 2-8 HD IP cameras to our EM-DVR. The playback resolution can be 720P. I am serious. However, it's a little expensive. Wow, a whole 720P? That's still less than a megapixel. There are dozens of systems that support megapixel IP cameras up to 16MP or more. I am serious too. Next?

Just at a guess, I'd expect both to support Pelco D and P protocols, which means they should work with the majority of controllers and DVRs out there.

I'm not familiar with these units specifically, but with some you set up the schedule in one area, while you have to tell it elsewhere whether to use constant, motion/event/ alarm-triggered, or scheduled recording, often on a per-camera basis (ie. you might tell it to record one camera on constant, another on motion, and a third based on the schedule).

The specs listed don't really mean much - they sound like any number of no-name offshore products out there that may or may not actually be of any quality. Do any of these things have actual make/model numbers?

This is the trick. Many basic broadband routers support schedules for controlling access; you could check into what router the system is currently using, or add one for just the DVR. If you were using a PC-based DVR (Windows or Linux), you could set up a scheduled task or cron job that would simply take down the network interface during those hours.

IR cut and codecs aren't really relevant to the question though. The OP is looking for a DVR that will make best use of a 600TVL (or more to the point, a >480TVL) camera. Anything that does 4CIF/D1 is already at the effective limit of analog video, and all else being equal, will work just as well for a 600TVL camera as any other. The only way you'll improve on the resolution is with a DVR that samples at non-standard resolutions. Good luck finding those.

480 vertical pixels (NTSC) is the most you'll find on any analog DVR. D1 is D1 on any brand.

Still one of my favorites: Camera is above the door of a liquor store. Across the mid-field is a glass-pane "fence". Buddy parks across the lot, comes running to the store... and right through the glass. He wasn't injured... and he hadn't been drinking (yet)... just didn't see the glass in his haste.

That's always a safe bet! " title="Applause" />

Technically, if the port outputs ONLY video, then it IS a DVI output. The connector is incidental. An HD-15 connector, for example, may COMMONLY be used for VGA, but not ONLY for VGA. Ditto a "typical" DVI connector, which is often also used for 16-in/2-out DVR breakouts.

HDMI is effectively DVI video + SPDIF audio over one cable. Breaking out DVI from HDMI just requires connecting to the right pins; the adapter is generally a straight-thru type.

If it's under an eave or somewhere else sheltered, I wouldn't worry too much about it, but if it's going to be directly exposed to the weather, I'd definitely want to protect it by running it through PVC pipe, ENT tubing, or even just with split wiring loom. A bigger concern would be whether the connections themselves are directly exposed - I like to use a good dielectric grease (often sold in auto parts stores to prevent corrosion on battery posts) on outdoor connections, exposed or not.

If you're not using any analog cameras, look up "NVR" rather than "DVR" - there are lots of options out there. You can roll your own using software like NUUO or Exacq, or you can look at network storage systems with dedicated NVR functionality like Synology or QNAP.

Improper wiring, quite likely. Most 12V-only cameras use a common ground for the power and video (even in the connectors are separate, the two grounds are tied together internally). If one is wired wrong, or if one has an internal wiring fault, that could easily explain the problem.