Soundy

Not if you use 6" lag bolts into the joist

One other idea: I don't know about the VBM-* models, but the mounting holes in the VCM-* cameras match up to a 4x4" double-gang box - you can attach a box to a joist and then mount the camera in that. You don't even need access to the ceiling space, just get the type of box that's designed to be mounted in existing walls.

I know the Vigil NVR supports some Panasonic IP cameras, and will probably work with yours (you could contact them to confirm). It will also address all your other requirements, including audio and the ability to view multiple remote sites through a single client application (you can even set up camera "groups" that display selected cameras from different sites on one screen with a single click). Unfortunately, it's not on the cheap end of things either, and the NVR software isn't sold separately (you have to purchase the complete system).

First of all, I'd go with the VCM-* models - I've put tons of these into drywall ceilings. They have the extra back protrusion for flush-mounting, that fits a 3-1/8" hole. First, I cut out a 4x4" piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood, drill a 3-1/8" hole in the center, then cut it in half (so I have two 2x4" pieces with a semi-circular cutout). Then I drill the 3-1/8" hole in the ceiling. Then I slip the two halves of the board through the hole and lay them to either side of the hole, and secure them with a couple of 1" drywall screws (these only need to hold the boards until the camera is in place). The boards provide a good solid backing to mount the camera using 1-1/4" or longer screws (drywall screws, wood screws, whatever suits... just not the drill-tip screws that come with the cameras). Too bad I don't have pictures of the design and process...

I worked with one guy who almost broke his nose trying to get that stuff out... had the coax wrapped around a hammer handle pulling on it trying to get the last chunk out, when the wire snapped and the hammer whacked him in the face. Bahahaha!

...then set the computer to sync with an internet time server (assuming it's on the network). With XP, double-click the clock in the system tray, and in the Date and Time Properties, go to the Internet Time tab and check the "Automatically synchronize with an Internet time server" box. By default, it should now sync once a week, but that time can be decreased.

PIR (passive infrared) sensors, aka motion sensors, are more commonly used to trigger alarm systems. Although they can be used to trigger a DVR recording, that's more often done by the software detecting changes in the scene as "motion".

Try VLC Media Player (http://www.videolan.org), and if necessary, K-Lite Mega Codec Pack (http://www.codecguide.com/download_mega.htm)

The Panasonic, and some models of the CNBs, do support RS-485 control using Pelco protocols - your Speco should be able to control them if it has RS-485 output, you'd just need to run an extra pair of wires (just about anything will do - Cat5, Cat3, station wire, intercom wire, speaker wire, whatever). There's also Windows software that will do it from a laptop with a serial port - check out PTZ Controller at www.serialporttool.com, or zmxtech's new creation at viewtopic.php?f=17&t=12173

Very nice! Are you taking requests? What would be the chance of adding DynaColor protocol support (see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=21207)?

That one is, yes. The CNB and Panasonic mentioned above are auto-iris, which allows them to better handle wide variations in lighting conditions.

IR isn't needed; the camera actually appears to have pretty good night vision... it just doesn't handle the wide range of lighting very well. What make/model is it? I'm assuming it's a fixed-iris lens?

We used to use standard sealed lead-acid "gel cell" batteries as backups for alarm systems when I was doing car-audio installs. Basically, the battery would be wired in to the alarm in parallel with the car's power source, but with a diode added so the car's systems wouldn't draw off the gel cell. Ostensibly, cars have batteries for only one purpose, and that is to crank the starter... when running, EVERYTHING should be powered by the alternator. In a car with a properly-functioning charging system, you should be able run with the battery disconnected. Of course, the batteries have long since been pressed into extended service... What you're looking for here, in any case, is commonly known as a battery isolator, and they're readily found at any RV/camper supplier, as having a separate battery to run your RV/camper systems without killing your vehicle's starter battery is kind of a good idea In their simplest form, these units are no different from the isolating diode used with the alarm backup system above - they're just a pair of very high-current diodes with a very hefty heat sink. Check out the diagram here: http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm If you go with a separate full-size lead-acid battery for this, you'll want to use a deep-cycle type, rather than a standard starter battery. Deep-cycle will better handle being drained to very low levels at lower maximum current draw, vs. a battery that needs to be able to deliver a lot of instantaneous current.

We've got installations in gas stations running RG59, station wire, 18/2, 18/4, and/or Cat5e, all basic CMR/FT-4 rated for a variety of camera and intercom purposes, all through underground EMT, and have never to my knowledge had a problem with any of it (other than a Bobcat operator shearing the intercom lines during a site renovation, requiring a complete re-wiring of those runs). This is all by customer spec, the customers being two of Canada's major oil companies, so if that spec is good enough for their engineers... As with Rory's experience though, those are basically "driveway" installations, not under streets... then again, they're all in EMT, which is FAR from sealed along the length, whereas properly assembled and glued PVC should be pretty water-tight along its length.

Right, interesting... I've found a wide variety of info on these two cameras, much under different names... seems a lot of outfits re-brand these things around the world. Maybe if I put some pictures up, someone with more info will recognize them. So, there are two of them, SHD-9237NE, and SHD-8237NE. It appears that both are the same camera module, but the 9237 is a newer motor unit that provides much higher-speed rotation and finer control. I found a manual for the 8237 (under a different brand and model number - iSAFETEK ISI-201HO) that shows the DIP switch settings, and I got that one running using the default DYNA 9600 protocol on my Vigil DVR (it also works with Pelco D and P) at ID 002. Only problem with this one, there appears to be a mechanical issue with the FOCUS drive, and it will only move a little bit in either direction. Gak. For the 9237 model, there are no DIP switches to configure protocol and ID; I managed to find another manual (again, different brand and model - CIA Trading TVCD2523xxx) that appears to apply to this camera, but it indicates that the only way to program this one is via the IR remote. This is a problem, since I have neither the remote, nor the IR receiver "mouse". I can't get it working on the Vigil either, apparently since the camera ID is set to 0000, but the Vigil won't go to zero; the settings only start at 1 (yes, I tried hacking the registry to set it to 0; Vigil displays it as 0, but still no joy). I'd love to get the 9237 going, since it appears to be a much more robust drive system, but in the interim, I'll probably just swap the camera modules and put the one with the working focus into the one with the working control. I'd still love to hear from anyone who has experience with either of these, especially someone who might know of some way to change the options in the 9237 drive system WITHOUT using the IR system. Some third-party software that supports DynaColor protocol might help, too... Of course, I am just using an RS-232 port direct to the RS-485 inputs here, which USUALLY works, and DOES work with the 8237, but the 9237 simply might not like it without the proper conversion, so I may need to track down a 232/485 converter...

This beast here: http://www.otima.com.tw/ptzdome/pdf/SDB_SAB_SHD_9237_SPECIFICATION_9seires.pdf Specifically, looking for the pinouts for the 1/8" TRS it uses for RS-485 input. All I can find online is the PDF listed above.

Yes - we removed all six existing cameras, installed three CNB domes instead (they only wanted very basic wide coverage of the pump islands), ran all new wiring INSIDE the canopy, and deleted ALL the old ugly wiring. The "installer" in this case isn't in "the biz", it was the station owner's brother.

Hmmm, a Panasonic WV-CW484 would handle that lighting nicely... although probably a bit out of your price range at ~$600 Something like this would work great, though, for about a third that price: http://www.cnbtec.com/en/html/product/product.php?inc=fea&seqx_prod=1126#p_v1

Welcome aboard!

Last elevator install we did, the A/V contractor had a Cat5e cable added to the traveler to run his three 7" displays (via component video baluns). We used the fourth pair for a camera feed. If there's power available on the elevator roof (which there should be), all you need is a single pair, twisted or not. A spare pair in the emergency-phone cable should suffice.

OKay, so the TRS jack is for the IR mouse input... so I still need to figure out which wires are the control inputs.

No IR, but here's a sample at 6km viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11322&start=82

If you'd been paying attention, Rory, you'd know that the Monalisas DO have ICR. It's been discussed several times. Ringtone, IR can be useful when there's REALLY low light... however, it's all to often used with cheap cameras to simply compensate for lack of good low-light performance. Cameras like the Monalisas that DO have good low-light response don't generally need it. Then as Warren points out, having the IR built-in can cause other problems - it attracts bugs, and the extra heat sometimes kills cameras. If it IS needed or desired, it's usually better to use separate external IR illuminators, rather than LEDs built into the camera itself.

C.O.P. above is a SMART customer. Nothing wrong with that. I suspect that's how a lot of pros in this industry got their start. The problem is the "SMART" customers, who think because they read a bunch of stuff on The Internets, they suddenly know everything there is to know on a subject, without actually having the faintest clue. Case in point was the guy I watched in the Computer City, badgering the poor minimum-wage salesdroid with his new-computer shopping list. He wanted the absolute latest, newest stuff so he wouldn't have to upgrade for a long time... including 14-pin USB and 16-pin Firewire ports. The salesdroid had no idea what the guy was talking about (neither did I). Mr. Self-Important stated that he had researched the latest computer technology on the The Internet so he knew what was what and nobody was going to talk over his head! He then produced the printout he had of an article instructing readers on what to look for in a new machine (I was in on the conversation by this point), and pointed out where it stated consumers should ensure their system had at least 1 4-pin USB and 1 6-pin Firewire port...