Soundy

RS-232 ports on a DVR are usually used to control devices like PTZ cameras... not for other devices to control the DVR. Are you sure these machines even support this type of usage? Remote access/control of your DVRs from a PC would typically be done via network.

Vigil's HD Viewer product will do it as well. It can also be used in conjunction with the Vigil DVR to display a mix of analog and IP cameras on your video wall (I've even seen both running on the same machine).

I'm guessing these are cameras with built-in IR? The spiders build in front of them because the IR attracts bugs for them. The best solution is to use separate IR illuminators mounted a short distance from the cameras, so the bugs congregate there instead of directly in front of the lens.

Yeah, I was kinda thinking that too - in a private lounge, how much vandalism is there, really?? Anyway, it's difficult in most setups like these to pull a camera down without it capturing the culprit... or without the other camera capturing the deed. If someone wants badly enough to remove or damage the camera, they'll do it... a simple wood backing will make it difficult enough that it will make it a hassle and give you a chance to get some video of the perp.

No, CNBs don't ship with power supplies. Pelco and Altronix both make power supplies with individually fused outputs. Some models also have self-resetting circuit breakers instead of fuses (very handy, especially if the PSU is in a hard-to-reach area). As far as surge suppression and filtering, that can all be done by plugging the unit into a surge power bar or even a UPS.

Yeah, well, you get what you pay for. You think that's bad, try a Pelco PC-based DVR for about three times that.

The base Vigil system has 16 analog inputs @ 60fps total, 8 audio inputs, one switched analog output and one software-multiplexor analog output, with a 500GB or 1TB drive. Any of the channels can also be used for IP cameras, and the supported-camera list is extensive. If memory serves, the system starts at around CDN$2300 - PC, capture card, software, network client, ready to go out-of-the-box. At the upper end, there's a rack-mounted 32-channel, 960fps, 2TB system that runs around $10k... and plenty of options in between. There is also a dedicated NVR version that comes without the hardware capture card, but uses the same software.

Yep, if someone really wants to damage or disable the cams, little will stop them. I'm concerned more about someone prying them off the ceiling and walking off with them. It's not all that easy to simply pull them down, especially with the wood backing - they housings themselves are a smooth surface so you can't just grab and pull. Getting a screwdriver or something in behind would mean having to get fairly close to the camera - on a standard 8' ceiling, most people would barely be able to reach the camera without standing on something, let alone get some sort of prise in behind it. That said, if you have access to the ceiling space, you can always use a larger sheet of wood, and even brace it off the joists...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but looking at the dimensional drawings on CNB's website, it appears that the only difference between the VBM and VCM models are that the VCM cams are 14.5mm [~9/16"] shorter (101mm height vs. 86.5mm exposed height). That's not much of a difference and the VCM will limit intstallation options. What am I missing here? They actually provide more installation options, as they also come with a back-box for surface-mount installation. Without the backbox though, you can countersink them somewhat into the ceiling through that 3-1/8" hole, which makes for a slightly lower profile installation. No, it's not a huge difference, but it does provide one or two more options that way. And for me at least, that 3-1/8" hole is just big enough squeeze my hand through to feel around for wires

Not if you use 6" lag bolts into the joist

One other idea: I don't know about the VBM-* models, but the mounting holes in the VCM-* cameras match up to a 4x4" double-gang box - you can attach a box to a joist and then mount the camera in that. You don't even need access to the ceiling space, just get the type of box that's designed to be mounted in existing walls.

I know the Vigil NVR supports some Panasonic IP cameras, and will probably work with yours (you could contact them to confirm). It will also address all your other requirements, including audio and the ability to view multiple remote sites through a single client application (you can even set up camera "groups" that display selected cameras from different sites on one screen with a single click). Unfortunately, it's not on the cheap end of things either, and the NVR software isn't sold separately (you have to purchase the complete system).

First of all, I'd go with the VCM-* models - I've put tons of these into drywall ceilings. They have the extra back protrusion for flush-mounting, that fits a 3-1/8" hole. First, I cut out a 4x4" piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood, drill a 3-1/8" hole in the center, then cut it in half (so I have two 2x4" pieces with a semi-circular cutout). Then I drill the 3-1/8" hole in the ceiling. Then I slip the two halves of the board through the hole and lay them to either side of the hole, and secure them with a couple of 1" drywall screws (these only need to hold the boards until the camera is in place). The boards provide a good solid backing to mount the camera using 1-1/4" or longer screws (drywall screws, wood screws, whatever suits... just not the drill-tip screws that come with the cameras). Too bad I don't have pictures of the design and process...

I worked with one guy who almost broke his nose trying to get that stuff out... had the coax wrapped around a hammer handle pulling on it trying to get the last chunk out, when the wire snapped and the hammer whacked him in the face. Bahahaha!

...then set the computer to sync with an internet time server (assuming it's on the network). With XP, double-click the clock in the system tray, and in the Date and Time Properties, go to the Internet Time tab and check the "Automatically synchronize with an Internet time server" box. By default, it should now sync once a week, but that time can be decreased.

PIR (passive infrared) sensors, aka motion sensors, are more commonly used to trigger alarm systems. Although they can be used to trigger a DVR recording, that's more often done by the software detecting changes in the scene as "motion".

Try VLC Media Player (http://www.videolan.org), and if necessary, K-Lite Mega Codec Pack (http://www.codecguide.com/download_mega.htm)

The Panasonic, and some models of the CNBs, do support RS-485 control using Pelco protocols - your Speco should be able to control them if it has RS-485 output, you'd just need to run an extra pair of wires (just about anything will do - Cat5, Cat3, station wire, intercom wire, speaker wire, whatever). There's also Windows software that will do it from a laptop with a serial port - check out PTZ Controller at www.serialporttool.com, or zmxtech's new creation at viewtopic.php?f=17&t=12173

Very nice! Are you taking requests? What would be the chance of adding DynaColor protocol support (see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=21207)?

That one is, yes. The CNB and Panasonic mentioned above are auto-iris, which allows them to better handle wide variations in lighting conditions.

IR isn't needed; the camera actually appears to have pretty good night vision... it just doesn't handle the wide range of lighting very well. What make/model is it? I'm assuming it's a fixed-iris lens?

We used to use standard sealed lead-acid "gel cell" batteries as backups for alarm systems when I was doing car-audio installs. Basically, the battery would be wired in to the alarm in parallel with the car's power source, but with a diode added so the car's systems wouldn't draw off the gel cell. Ostensibly, cars have batteries for only one purpose, and that is to crank the starter... when running, EVERYTHING should be powered by the alternator. In a car with a properly-functioning charging system, you should be able run with the battery disconnected. Of course, the batteries have long since been pressed into extended service... What you're looking for here, in any case, is commonly known as a battery isolator, and they're readily found at any RV/camper supplier, as having a separate battery to run your RV/camper systems without killing your vehicle's starter battery is kind of a good idea In their simplest form, these units are no different from the isolating diode used with the alarm backup system above - they're just a pair of very high-current diodes with a very hefty heat sink. Check out the diagram here: http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm If you go with a separate full-size lead-acid battery for this, you'll want to use a deep-cycle type, rather than a standard starter battery. Deep-cycle will better handle being drained to very low levels at lower maximum current draw, vs. a battery that needs to be able to deliver a lot of instantaneous current.

We've got installations in gas stations running RG59, station wire, 18/2, 18/4, and/or Cat5e, all basic CMR/FT-4 rated for a variety of camera and intercom purposes, all through underground EMT, and have never to my knowledge had a problem with any of it (other than a Bobcat operator shearing the intercom lines during a site renovation, requiring a complete re-wiring of those runs). This is all by customer spec, the customers being two of Canada's major oil companies, so if that spec is good enough for their engineers... As with Rory's experience though, those are basically "driveway" installations, not under streets... then again, they're all in EMT, which is FAR from sealed along the length, whereas properly assembled and glued PVC should be pretty water-tight along its length.

Right, interesting... I've found a wide variety of info on these two cameras, much under different names... seems a lot of outfits re-brand these things around the world. Maybe if I put some pictures up, someone with more info will recognize them. So, there are two of them, SHD-9237NE, and SHD-8237NE. It appears that both are the same camera module, but the 9237 is a newer motor unit that provides much higher-speed rotation and finer control. I found a manual for the 8237 (under a different brand and model number - iSAFETEK ISI-201HO) that shows the DIP switch settings, and I got that one running using the default DYNA 9600 protocol on my Vigil DVR (it also works with Pelco D and P) at ID 002. Only problem with this one, there appears to be a mechanical issue with the FOCUS drive, and it will only move a little bit in either direction. Gak. For the 9237 model, there are no DIP switches to configure protocol and ID; I managed to find another manual (again, different brand and model - CIA Trading TVCD2523xxx) that appears to apply to this camera, but it indicates that the only way to program this one is via the IR remote. This is a problem, since I have neither the remote, nor the IR receiver "mouse". I can't get it working on the Vigil either, apparently since the camera ID is set to 0000, but the Vigil won't go to zero; the settings only start at 1 (yes, I tried hacking the registry to set it to 0; Vigil displays it as 0, but still no joy). I'd love to get the 9237 going, since it appears to be a much more robust drive system, but in the interim, I'll probably just swap the camera modules and put the one with the working focus into the one with the working control. I'd still love to hear from anyone who has experience with either of these, especially someone who might know of some way to change the options in the 9237 drive system WITHOUT using the IR system. Some third-party software that supports DynaColor protocol might help, too... Of course, I am just using an RS-232 port direct to the RS-485 inputs here, which USUALLY works, and DOES work with the 8237, but the 9237 simply might not like it without the proper conversion, so I may need to track down a 232/485 converter...