Soundy

It's all kind of a moot question without knowing what that number on the right side refers to. Is it a time count? Is it a reference or watermark? Is it a CRC or other sort of authentication mark? Does it maybe indicate other image factors like motion detection, image brightness, etc? Without knowing this, your concerns are baseless, and everyone else's answers (except kensplace's) are just speculation.

Any handy lens calculator will do - sensor size factors into it as well. There's a simple but effective one here: http://www.sweeting.org/mark/lenses/cctv.php Assuming a 1/4" sensor, looking at horizontal field of view: 2.8mm = 65º 3.5mm = 54º 8mm = 25º On a 1/3" sensor: 2.8mm = 81º 3.5mm = 68º 8mm = 33º

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See if the DVR has a switch or software setting for "termination" on the BNC output - options would likely be "75Ω" and/or "Hi-Z".

Interesting... cost-wise, a iPad would make as effective a display device as a large LCD monitor/TV... only problem is, I think they'll want something significantly bigger that an iPad. In their newer stores, they have extensive centrally-managed A/V systems that we may be able to tie into as well, so a self-contained setup wouldn't really work in this instance (unless the iPad can output HDMI/DVI/VGA).

Yes, but I'm not talking about PoE. I'm talking about using a few switches in a distributed layout, rather than a ton of Outreach boxes to home-run each camera. You noted that the switches then each need power... I pointed out that the cameras in such a layout also each need power, so it's not like you need to run power JUST for the switch. Take my five-camera example above with three $35 switches. Assume it costs $100 to install a power outlet (figuring that electricians are pricey; this also assumes there isn't power already convenient to any of the switch locations). Assume, for the sake of simplicity, that the cameras come with their own wall-wart supplies, so there's not an extra cost there. There's $105 for switches, and $300 for outlets, for $405. Now in your design, you wouldn't need an Outreach box for the first camera... you'd need one each for the middle pair of cameras, and two each for the farthest cameras. So there's six Outreach boxes, at $150 each, for a total of $900. In the above example specifically, there was actually power convenient to one switch location already, so only two outlets were required to be installed.

There's one consideration nobody has addressed yet, and it's sort of the answer to the question, "What is the distance ______ lens can cover?" The DISTANCE a lens can cover, is right up to the first opaque object. It doesn't matter how wide the view is, you won't see any FARTHER than the first shelf, display, hanging sign, or other obstruction. How many cameras are needed will be directly affected by this, regardless of the store size. A 12,000 sq. ft. store with low racks will be less of a problem than a 2,000 sq. ft. store with shelves that approach the ceiling; in the former, a single camera can often cover several aisles, whereas in the latter instance, if you want all aisles covered, each will need its own camera.

No, because of PoE on IP cameras. Try to follow the conversation....

Each camera that plugs into it needs power as well, no? $300 extra per gets a little extreme after more than a couple cameras... cheaper to get an electrician in to add a couple outlets at the switch locations to power switch AND cameras.

I can't say specifically for the NW484S, as I've not used the network model, but if it's the same guts as its analog brethren, then it's a kick-ass camera for any sort of dynamic lighting conditions.

Do you have make and model info for the existing cameras and DVR? They may be just fine for this purpose, and merely need to be set up properly.

Depends on the site/system layout, you might be cheaper with switches anyway. I did one like this recently... From server room, 70m run to a 5-port switch... that switch fed one camera, and another 80m run to a second 5-port switch. That switch directly fed two cameras, and another 80m run down to a third switch, which in turn fed two more cameras, one of them about 95m away. Three DSS-5+ 10/100 5-port switches = $35x3 = $105.

Next thing you know, you'll be using twist-on connectors on steel-core, aluminum-shielded RG6 to connect up your HDcctv cameras to your eBay DVRs!

(Arnold voice) YOU HEAR ME NOW, BELIEVE ME LATER!

Quicktime Pro? I'd think any iPod/iPhone-compatible output settings should work...

Anyone done any side-by-side comparisons of various MP cameras in low light? Got any sample shots? There are plenty of samples in the "Images and Demos" thread, but not really any that show two cameras' performance in identical lighting conditions, except like the ones I posted of the IQ511 vs. the Hikvision. I have a site where they're not overly pleased with the IQs (511s and A11s) when it gets really dim, so we're looking at trying both some day/night versions of the IQA11 domes, and a couple of the AV3155DNs (which I've worked with before - PITA but they do seem to handle low(ish) light well). I wouldn't mind other suggestions (really prefer clean-looking domes) but night shots on their own are of limited value because there's no context or anything to show how they are compared to something else.

Thanks! The Basler cameras look amazing... how's their price point compared to the others?

Maybe scorpion can help you with that, he seems to have manuals for every DVR ever made Water freezing on either type of cable won't be too healthy for it. Direct-burial rated cable would be safer in that regard, but the best solution would be to find the leak and fix it. It may be though, that some water simply got in through one open end of the conduit.

That means it can use a composite signal for video sync... it doesn't necessarily mean it can DISPLAY a composite signal (I would bet not). Either way, the only listed input is a VGA HD-15 connector, so you'd need an appropriate adapter to connect a composite feed to it.

Awesome score, congrats! That would probably be my choice in this instance (or even just replace the fans, if the problem is simply that they're old and noisy). Again, leaves you a lot of extra budget for other parts of the project, the more of this stuff you can re-use. If the DVRs support VGA or DVI output, there should (theoretically) be no difference between a "TV" or a "computer monitor" with a VGA or DVI input. In that case, there's little point in spending the extra on a display with a tuner and a myriad of other inputs. Size should be whatever fits the situation, taking budget and available space into account. Normally, you'll probably find a 4:3 display better; unless the DVR can use the widescreen's native resolution (generally 1440x900 up to 20", 1680x1050 above that), the image will be stretched and "soft". Either way, it will probably have limited options to display multiple cameras - at the least, four (2x2) and nine (3x3) grids. Nothing that will make a noticeable difference.

So much for all the hype of using existing coax infrastructure...

Good score! Get a good price on that? Look at it this way: you're a non-profit, you're on a tight budget... use those DVRs initially to save some money, and IF they have issues, replace them later (hopefully they last until at least the next fiscal year ) There should be domes (possibly third-party) available that would let you use those cameras outdoor, but they'd probably be large and somewhat unsightly. A more common enclosure to use them outdoors would be something like the Pelco EH3508or 3512. Indoors, you can use a dome like a Pelco DF5 to mount it in a drywall or tile ceiling. Oh sure, why stop now? I'm not familiar with the Navcos at all, but we've used Pelco CC3701 and CC3751s extensively; they're good cameras, but neither of those, or the 1370, are day/night cameras, which may be a factor in your case. Shouldn't be a problem. I've used those power supplies as well (or cousins to them) - if memory serves, they should have the option of 24 or 28V outputs, so if you find there's too much loss at the other end, you can switch to the 28V terminal for that camera. The CNBs should reliably work with less voltage, though. I'd terminate it now, while you're at it, and save the effort later.