Soundy

(Arnold voice) YOU HEAR ME NOW, BELIEVE ME LATER!

Quicktime Pro? I'd think any iPod/iPhone-compatible output settings should work...

Anyone done any side-by-side comparisons of various MP cameras in low light? Got any sample shots? There are plenty of samples in the "Images and Demos" thread, but not really any that show two cameras' performance in identical lighting conditions, except like the ones I posted of the IQ511 vs. the Hikvision. I have a site where they're not overly pleased with the IQs (511s and A11s) when it gets really dim, so we're looking at trying both some day/night versions of the IQA11 domes, and a couple of the AV3155DNs (which I've worked with before - PITA but they do seem to handle low(ish) light well). I wouldn't mind other suggestions (really prefer clean-looking domes) but night shots on their own are of limited value because there's no context or anything to show how they are compared to something else.

Thanks! The Basler cameras look amazing... how's their price point compared to the others?

Maybe scorpion can help you with that, he seems to have manuals for every DVR ever made Water freezing on either type of cable won't be too healthy for it. Direct-burial rated cable would be safer in that regard, but the best solution would be to find the leak and fix it. It may be though, that some water simply got in through one open end of the conduit.

That means it can use a composite signal for video sync... it doesn't necessarily mean it can DISPLAY a composite signal (I would bet not). Either way, the only listed input is a VGA HD-15 connector, so you'd need an appropriate adapter to connect a composite feed to it.

Awesome score, congrats! That would probably be my choice in this instance (or even just replace the fans, if the problem is simply that they're old and noisy). Again, leaves you a lot of extra budget for other parts of the project, the more of this stuff you can re-use. If the DVRs support VGA or DVI output, there should (theoretically) be no difference between a "TV" or a "computer monitor" with a VGA or DVI input. In that case, there's little point in spending the extra on a display with a tuner and a myriad of other inputs. Size should be whatever fits the situation, taking budget and available space into account. Normally, you'll probably find a 4:3 display better; unless the DVR can use the widescreen's native resolution (generally 1440x900 up to 20", 1680x1050 above that), the image will be stretched and "soft". Either way, it will probably have limited options to display multiple cameras - at the least, four (2x2) and nine (3x3) grids. Nothing that will make a noticeable difference.

So much for all the hype of using existing coax infrastructure...

Good score! Get a good price on that? Look at it this way: you're a non-profit, you're on a tight budget... use those DVRs initially to save some money, and IF they have issues, replace them later (hopefully they last until at least the next fiscal year ) There should be domes (possibly third-party) available that would let you use those cameras outdoor, but they'd probably be large and somewhat unsightly. A more common enclosure to use them outdoors would be something like the Pelco EH3508or 3512. Indoors, you can use a dome like a Pelco DF5 to mount it in a drywall or tile ceiling. Oh sure, why stop now? I'm not familiar with the Navcos at all, but we've used Pelco CC3701 and CC3751s extensively; they're good cameras, but neither of those, or the 1370, are day/night cameras, which may be a factor in your case. Shouldn't be a problem. I've used those power supplies as well (or cousins to them) - if memory serves, they should have the option of 24 or 28V outputs, so if you find there's too much loss at the other end, you can switch to the 28V terminal for that camera. The CNBs should reliably work with less voltage, though. I'd terminate it now, while you're at it, and save the effort later.

Probably because the screen thinks that the signal has gone away (which, technically, it has, for an instant) and may be wanting to start cycling inputs to find another valid signal. You could check the settings for an option to not auto-seek inputs. Whatever looks good to you, in that particular viewing location. There are monitors that support just about any imaginable type of input(s). A bigger concern would be what you can get out of the DVR: DVRs typically only support composite and VGA out, although some newer ones also support DVI, and a few old ones also support S-video out. Realistically, composite is probably your only option.

Never heard of such a thing. What would be the point? NTSC video is 500 visible lines of resolution... anything over that for capture is largely pointless.

Soundy signal get compress at DVR end I realize that... that's my point, it still needs to get compressed if you want any sort of decent retention time. And if retention is really critical, it will need to be resampled to a lower framerate as well. So as far as recorded footage, you end up back where you already are with analog and IP. Unless it's in an application where watching the video in realtime is a *requirement* (such as casinos, etc.), that pretty much negates THE major stated benefit of the format.

What sort of price point for this stuff? I remain skeptical - yes, it will give you magnificent-look full-framerate HD video to look at... and take about a terabyte per week per camera to store unless you recompress it.

Why would you say that? There's no technical reason for any loss of quality using baluns over non-twisted wire of any kind - if you've experienced it, there's probably some other reason.

You're right, HD *might* be easier. So far all we have to really go on is the marketing hype from the HDcctv Alliance.

Well, that is an EXTREMELY broad question - there are SO many different ways to accomplish it! You might as well ask, how does a carpenter drive a nail? That's pretty much it, if you're talking about a centrally-manged, card- or fob-based system. I've not seen such a thing, but I would imagine it's also possible to have the "validation" processing done entirely IN the reader unit, and simply have that managed from a central server... or to have multiple units communicate with each other and do without the server altogether. Simpler systems would have the validation done within the reader, but without multiple readers communicating with each other. Think of a home door lock with a thumbprint reader, or even with a numeric keypad: it's just a standalone device with reader and strike all integrated. Yes. Typically the strike plate in the door jamb would be replaced with an electric strike built around a solenoid. In a 'fail-safe' configuration the strike is normally in a 'released' state to the door can be opened readily; energizing the solenoid then locks the door. In a 'fail-secure' setup, the strike is normally locked, and energizing it releases the lock. Some strikes have the option to select which method you want to use; others, you have to buy the appropriate version. It COULD. It would depend on how the installer sets it up. Typically, you'd want it to release the lock, then initiate the opener after a brief (<1s) delay, then re-lock the strike after another brief delay. But the sequence and timing could vary depending on the specific needs of that installation. Yup. All it would require is something to energize the strike to cause it to release. The access control interface would more than likely be on the same server that provides the fob validation, but it wouldn't have to be. You could also have an "emergency exit" button, crash bar, or other such device paralleled with the controller, or tie it into a fire alarm system. In a lot of cases like this, you might actually use a fail-safe strike, where the system keeps it energized until you need it to unlock. That way, if you had a power outage, people wouldn't be trapped by a locked door. (Of course, you can also have other sorts of mechanical releases on the doors themselves, in conjunction with a fail-secure strike... again, the are so many different ways to do it, some of which may be dictated by local building, electrical, and/or fire codes). Plenty of reasons to opt for a maglock over an electric strike. They can have substantially more holding power. They can be used in instances where a standard strike isn't practical (all-gladd doors, for example). They tend to be a lot easier to retro-fit in many installations, because you don't need to be cutting out door jambs and fishing wire into them. I've done strike installs into steel door frames that were filled with concrete, and had to spend hours with a small air chisel and hammer drill hollowing out enough space for the strike to fit. In either case though, the idea is the same: something else - a computer, a controller, or just a simple switch, controls the electricity to the lock in order to control access.

I've done baluns over 18/2, works just fine. I've used them over station-Z wire (four 22ga conductors, non-twisted) without a problem. I've even run video *and* power over station-Z in a pinch (situation similar to yours - cameras on a gas station's pump canopy, where all the conduits have been sealed). Realize that the "balanced line" concept really doesn't rely on the pairs being twisted - that helps with EMI rejection, but it's really not crucial in most instances. Consider that the concept is the same (though there are slight technical differences) to that used for balanced audio lines in pro audio, and that typically uses shielded, non-twisted 18/2 or 20/2. All that said, if you'd prefer to delete the Siamese and start clean, instead of using the Siamese to pull new wire... use it to fish through a proper pull string, then use THAT to fish your new run.

There are no "good" cameras for $100.

Never even heard of "LT Security" so I couldn't tell ya... tell the other installer to send me one, and I'll compare them BTW, don't get too hung up on TVL ratings - they're a fair "indicator" of comparative resolution, but not the be-all, end-all factor most marketing makes it out to be.

So let's assume optimal response for both sensors: 1. Color sensor during the day with sufficient light to generate solid color image 2. Night sensor with sufficient light to generate solid black and white image Will the resolving power of the two be the same in your opinion? We can haz obliviousness?

STOP FOLLOWING ME!!!

It does not all come down to pixels on target. There are other factors that must be considered, such as low light performance. 3 mp is worthless if it's too dark to see an image on the monitor. Good CCTV system design requires an understanding of issues beyond simple pixel count. Best, Christopher

Little late, but welcome aboard!

An important question that nobody has asked yet is, what is your budget? You can get something that will meet your specs for probably under $500, but that won't be very solid or reliable.

The question is still whether it will work with anything besides Axis cameras? I want to rig my netbook up with a neck strap, like I had for my DVD player I used to use (before it died). Really, the Archos or a similar device is a great way to go - the Archos, at least, has a wrist strap so it just sits on your arm like a (really big) watch.