Soundy

One important question has not been asked (or if it has, I missed it - sorry, in the process of rebuilding a PC on the other side of my desk, so I'm intermittently distracted), is what's your budget? Is the freeware/open-source requirement as much about standards as it is cost? It's maybe a little overkill for your situation, but as an example, take a gander at 3xLogic's Vigil systems. You can buy a complete turnkey DVR/hybrid DVR/NVR system from them; or you can buy the card and software to roll your own; or you can buy just the software and use it as a straight-up NVR with a WIDE range of cameras, or with a decent range of third-party capture cards for a DVR/hybrid system, and on a WIDE range of PC hardware. AFAIK, the smallest package analog/hybrid setup they sell is a 16-channel unit, which is why I say it may be a bit overkill for your current needs... but consider that something like that provides a lot of expandability for the future. You could start off with an all-IP setup and add analog capture hardware and cameras later, or start off with an analog setup with the ability to add IP cameras later. They do sell cameras and capture cards, but again, you're not limited to those; the software is not code-locked to their name-branded hardware like a lot of others are. If you have a spare PC kicking around, download the 30-day demo version of their software and give it a look! As far as the cameras, take a look at CNB's offerings - they make some great cameras for a really good price. An advantage to going to with IP cameras in your situation - with a temporary, portable setup - is that you have a lot more options for hooking things up on remote sites... for example, if the cameras are close together but the DVR has to be farther away, you can just connect the cameras to a local switch, then via a single run to the DVR (you can even do it over DSL/cable/3G/HSPA to a remote DVR). If wiring is a problem, WiFi solutions can be implemented (not the best, but still an option if it's really necessary).

Well, you can always mount the DVR and power supply closer together. In one instance, we terminated at the PSU and used four Cat5e runs to extend 14 video feeds from there to the other end of the desk, where the DVR was. Or like I say, the long runs can be protected by conduit, loom, etc. Lots of possibilities!

It's really only necessary to post your question once, in the related forum.

These ones (the gel-filled ones are blue): The ones we use, at least, if you look inside, they're lined with little teeth that can bite through the wires' insulation when you crimp them down. They're small, so you do usually need to strip larger wires just so they'll fit, and you'll certainly get a more reliable connection by stripping first, but I've regularly used them without stripping as well. I've done it a variety of ways. You can terminate everything to a punchdown block (BIX, or whatever)... I've used the string to split the jacket, pulled out JUST the video pair, then run all the video pairs together over to the DVR, wrapped in split loom... I've also ended everything at the DVR then extended the power runs to the PSU with 18/2... really, it depends on the specific installation.

In addition to the potential voltage drop mentioned above, many alarm installers refuse to use 24AWG for power because it is so fragile. A nick while stripping or a tight terminal screw can easily break 24AWG. PoE avoids these problems because the higher voltage reduces the current and the RJ45 connectors avoid the need to strip or use terminals screws. Best, Christopher I've actually had more breaks from nicking the wire while cutting off the jacket, than I have from stripping the individual wires. And I usually use a pair of small flush-cutters for stripping stuff that small. It's really not a big an issue as some people make it out to be. In any case, use tool-less baluns and B-crimps that bite through the insulation, and you don't have to worry about stripping the inner wires at all.

My money is on either faulty wiring (signal leaking between the two runs), or a faulty card...

Well then, you'll never get to play poker on TV. I wouldn't be surprised that it's part of the TV contract they sign, that they're required to show their hole cards to the cameras.

Probably not. As you note, it's cheaper that running two separate or Siamese wires, it's easier to work with, it future-proofs you, and it means you only have to carry one kind of wire around. No-brainer, in my books.

The voltage drop DOES start to become an issue with higher current draw, especially when you start getting into IR cameras, which seem to be overly popular. For example, once you get up to a half-amp draw, you lose nearly a full volt at 12VDC.

You do know where I work, don't you? Of course, I'm familiar with the game!!! My question is why would you want to show the players' hole cards and do you actually think the players would comply? I certainly wouldn't - even in a "friendly" game. "The idea is that we'll have a big poker game with 20-30 people, and as people drop out, they can go into another room and watch the game while seeing everyone's hands as they play, live."

That camera is super-low current draw, so you should be okay. Even at 12VDC, losses should be only 0.1V, although just to be safe, I'd use 24VAC for the power.

SO, who's watching? Surely Rory wants to see all the snow I just ask because, well, I live in Vancouver (or the burbs thereof )

That spec sheet says nothing about a BNC ouptut, it lists only the 2.5mm jack. You could probably find something at Radio Shack or an electronic parts store for it, or hack the wire off a phone headset that uses that type of plug, and put a new connector on the other end. The only mentions of the service output, however, are "The analog video service output and the on-screen displays (OSD) simplify focus adjustment and network configuration" and "Network parameters and basic camera set-up, such as lens set-up and back focus, are quickly and easily performed using the on-screen displays (OSD) and analog video service output." I'm not familiar with this camera specifically, but based on other IP cameras I've seen that have a similar output, it may have focus aids overlaid on the image, or may only work temporarily (some will shut off after a few minutes)... plus, the jack is typically inside the dome, so you may not be able to leave the wire connected once you close the camera.

Uuuuuummmmm slight problem with that plan: for the overhead cam to see the players' cards, the cards would have to be flipped up, which would allow the other players at the table to see them as well. Perhaps you're not familiar with the nuances of the game, but this is not a desirable thing...

You probably want to search for "pinhole" or "spy" cameras - not that they need to be covert, but those are small so they can be easily mounted in the table, and are designed to give a wide view with a lot of depth-of-field. All you need after that is a multiplexer - a nine-channel model should suffice (they typically come in 4, 9 and 16-channel designs). Shouldn't be hard to find one for a decent price on fleaBay or even Craigslist, as they're not used very much anymore. You don't even need a fancy duplex/triplex type - a simplex version will be fine. Some will give you simple 2x2/3x3/4x4 splits, better ones will give you additional Picture-in-Picture options. Something like this would do nicely, if you can get a good bid in: http://cgi.ebay.com/GV-MUX16TC-16-CHANNEL-COLOR-MULTIPLEXER-30FPS_W0QQitemZ190372063826QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c530f2a52

Good for you! You've already learned the most important lesson from being here: think for yourself! My next question for them would be, why "ioimage"? Why not find software that does what you need first, and then spec cameras that fit the need? As someone said in another forum recently, "utilize a technology that fits the application, rather than forcing the application to fit the technology".

You could do it with a really freakin' log VGA extender (make sure it's the good, shielded type), but the VGA-over-UTP extender is probably going to be cheaper overall, and undoubtedly easier (fishing a big thick VGA cable with its D-sub ends can be a serious PITA).

Hi Alex... it would be helpful if you updated your drawing to show what areas are of particular concern, how big those areas are, etc. Maybe a little better description of what the various boxes are as well - is the main large box the building, or is the small center box the building and the large box a fenced yard around it? Is that a driveway at the top-right, and do you need to watch that? How about some dimensions? $3000 doesn't sound unreasonable... DEPENDING on the exact recorder and cameras, and how complex the installation is (whether conduit is needed, plenum-rated cabling, trenching, etc.) Labor can be a large part of the installation cost. There are recorders ranging from $300 to well over $3000 on their own, too.

VGA or standard composite monitors? If you're talking about a PC's VGA output, you can use one video head with a VGA splitter, or a dual-head VGA card (same as you would normally use to extend your desktop across two monitors). With a composite output (RCA or BNC), you can just use a T-connector or Y-cable, although an active (electronic) splitter is generally preferred, to avoid signal loss and a reduction in quality.

Depends whether you rely on the maglock as the ONLY means of locking the door after-hours, I suppose. I never recommend that - a power outage would readily unlock the door to anyone who wanted to walk in, too. We've had the odd clerk lock themselves out as well - they have the door locked (night service being via a passthru window), then hit the exit button by the door to go outside for something, then get trapped... so for these instances, we install an outdoor keypad that they can use to unlock the door. Unfortunately, unless you use a really pricey enclosure or something like a Scramblepad, those can be fairly easily defeated and bypassed by someone with a few minutes on their hands, so again, it's not a recommended method of securing the site for overnight.

Honestly, unless people are RUNNING through the door on a regular basis, 3-4fps should be more than enough to capture clear face shots. In my experience, a subject is in-frame of a typical ID shot for about 2-3 seconds, so even at 1fps, you would end up with 2-3 individual images of the person. Are 30-45 individual pictures really required to identify someone?

...or just "mobile CCTV" in general? Good idea

Was that his actually wording, "MUST NOT work"?? Because that sounds like someone grasping at straws after not being able to find an appropriate "canned answer". You just picture him shrugging his shoulders and saying, "I dunno, that must not work..."

So does the spec sheet or anything list a minimum PC power supply requirement? Considering some of the systems I've seen (5-6 drives in a machine with a 300W PSU), you'd want to be careful about what you're adding that extra 70W load to.

That sounds like a system that has the computer built into the display. Your idea would only work if there's a separate PC with a standard VGA cable that runs to the display.