Soundy

I need Advil... Age is no excuse for a complete bastardization of the language. We have lots of people here from all around the world who have trouble with English, but at least they try. You're from the birthplace of the language and your command of it would put 5-year-olds to shame.

Ok thanks. Guess I will stay clear of the Mona Lisa for now then Not happy with that clarity of picture in extreme darkness? Whatever... They're exposed outside domes and it's been raining for a week, so...

ok Thanks u should tweak image kinda weak I leave that for their IT guy - he likes to do his own tweaking

Yes, it would --- but coax simply doesn't transmit enough data for the TCP/IP protocol to broadcast a megapixel system. Back when computers used coax cable for networking I think the best speed they got on it was 10mbps, which is nowhere near fast enough for Megapixel IP. The old coax ethernet was, indeed, 10Mbit (10base-2, vs. 10base-T - "2" for coax, "T" for twisted pair) but that was a rather different setup - for one thing, it was an end-to-end topology: you had to run from machine to machine to machine in a single line with a T-connector at each one, and a terminator at either end of the chain. And BTW, existing RG59 coax CAN handle 100base-T ethernet using HighWire adapters and similar devices. That's the one thing that's conveniently ignored by the nay-sayers. The ability to use existing coax is great... where you have existing coax. Where you're already wiring for network in a new construction, though, it's crazy to carry a whole bunch of extra wire that will be used for a single purpose. You can pull a bundle of 6, 8, or more Cat5e or Cat6 and use them for LAN, IP cameras (on their own separate physical network if so desired), phone, analog video (including component), audio (intercom systems), HDMI/DVI video (with proper extenders)... mixing in coax/siamese just adds complexity and cost, not just for cable but for the labour... and that cable will be usable for video and little else. Seconded there! Most of them don't want the associated cost (since most of ours will require the internet connection added to the site) but 99% of them, one of the first things they ask is, "Can I watch this from home?"

That's a Vigil. No tweaking done to image (brightness/contrast), and compression level has been increased a bit beyond default.

Actually, just went and checked the boxes: it's the VCM-20VF, which looks to basically be the vandal-resistant version of the OP's cameras. The problem with comparing day/night pics like this is that you have no idea how dark it really is on that patio - with everything being dark surfaces as well (stone base, dark-stained wood trellis, etc.) and what light does get to it being highly filtered, it's dark enough that you could easily trip over something walking through it. Here's the daylight view:

... I think what he is trying to say here is: the low-light quality of this camera may not match to the quality of an infra-red camera. Having said that, if you're putting this camera near streetlights or you have a motion-sensing floodlight I imagine this camera should be fine. I'm glad YOU can understand him.

Around here, you're required to have both front and rear plates. Having NO plates is a BIG deal... but as long as you have your rear plate, it's actually three times the fine to have a damaged/bent/modified/covered/improperly-mounted front plate, than it is to simply have no front plate at all. "I wasn't driving fast, Officer... I was flying REALLY low!"

I haven't used that model specifically, but we're using a lot CNB domes these days and find them excellent overall. Just recently put some day/night domes in recently on a restaurant patio and their night sensitivity is pretty impressive. With your existing flood lights, there should be no need for IR. Here it is with the standard patio lighting on... the bright blobs are 40W bulbs in caged fixtures. And here they are with the patio lighting (including Christmas lights in the trees) all turned off - all it gets is filtered street lighting from a couple hundred feet away (coming from the left), and light from inside the dining room, filtered through half-closed blinds (from the right).

The shorter the lens focal length (expressed in millimeters), the wider the view. On a 1/4" sensor, a 2.6mm lens will give you about a 90-degree field of view. If you want anything more specific than that, we'd need more details on the type of camera (preferably with make and model), the area to be covered, and the mounting position of the camera (height, distance from the area, etc.). U see, f u typ english, u get english rplis.

Vs lbh jnag crbcyr gb nafjre lbhe dhrfgvbaf naq qvfphff PPGI jvgu lbh, gurl unir gb or noyr gb haqrefgnaq jung lbh'er fnlvat... naq jung lbh'er fnlvat vf ABG HAQREFGNAQNOYR. Know what I mean?

i dont no abt blackpool specficly but they mite use smth lik fiber or teh internets. BTW, do check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punctuation

That's not English, that text shorthand and kindergarten level spelling. Let's see if I can do this... umm u wood tk a cble w/ 2 bncs nd a bnc cuplr 2 join thm, lk this: I think I broke a nail doing that...

You might do better if you speak English instead of Internet. Your posts make my head hurt.

Without significant mechanical modifications, no, it is likely not possible to speed up your PTZ.

Yeah, pretty sure your average end-user would just get frustrated at the amount of time it would take the machine to do that... most of them are non-multitasking so sitting staring at the progress bar waiting for the thing to complete would absorb all their attention. Look at it this way: most times you're going to need something like that in DVD-Video format, it will be for "business" issues - store theft, credit card fraud, etc. Coming in to extract and process and convert video is one of the services we, as professionals, can provide our clients to take the worries off them.

The Vigils do that, no batch required: they put their player/codec installer on the disc with an autorun, so when you pop it in (at least on a Windows machine), it launches, checks if the player and codec already exist on the machine, starts the install if they're not, and just loads the video if they area. The player includes an Authentication function that will tell you within seconds if the video has been tampered with or damaged at all.

Well, that's the other thing: there's more to the structure of a DVD-Video than just the video format. Right. Point is, it's probably a lot quicker to simply do it on another computer afterward. Export to your authenticated format and keep that for your original, then load a copy onto a new, fast PC and author as many DVD-Video discs as you need from there. Then you can add your fancy menus and stuff too

yeah, those typically last a good 15 minutes...

Well, the half-dozen or so extra power outlets required by your average system can be a bit of an inconvenience... means an extra trip to the Home Depot sometimes. So many damn power cords all over the place...

Might be, if you're electronically competent enough to open them up and hack the internal power supply... You could give them the appropriate 24VAC supply plugged into an off-the-shelf small-office-type UPS... or a better idea might be to just swap them for some 12VDC cameras. If I had a bunch of equivalent 12VDC cameras to offer, I'd swap in a second - I find 24VAC to be less problematic overall, less worry about voltage drop over long runs, and far less chance of getting ground loops, especially when using them with baluns.

Oh man... was it in here, or on a.s.a a few years back... I think the latter... someone was telling the story of how he pre-wired an entire townhouse complex... left all the wires hanging out of a box where the comms closet was supposed to be in each unit, all nicely labeled, all with plenty of extra length... came back the next week to find the drywallers had chopped them all off flush with the wall and boarded right over them.... oh yeah, and then handed him all the nicely labeled and coiled chopped-off ends. If memory serves, that turned out to be a very expensive contract for the drywallers...

Hard to say. Most (not all) PTZs support Pelco D and/or P as a sort of "generic" protocol, in addition to their own. No idea if that's the case with these, but one or the other is a safe bet to try.

Quick AND fast, you say?? The Rhino systems are nice if you do lots of labeling, because they have so many options for label types, sizes, colors, etc., and every now and then you can find a good deal on them - I don't know if it's a factory promotion or just one by our supplier (ADI/Burtek) but every year or so they have a deal where you buy 10 rolls of labels ($10-$13 each) and they throw in the label machine for free... essentially making the whole package half-price. I have yet to justify this to the boss, unfortunately, but it's pretty darn tempting to shell out for myself. Then again, I have a little $30 Brother labeller that I've been using for about four years now and I'm still on the original roll of label tape... that's how much I actually need to use the thing.