Soundy

Not necessarily true. As I noted before, IF the TV accepts RGB on the component inputs, as well as the standard YPbPr component signal, then it should work. In fact, I'm using that exact setup with an HTPC and my NEC plasma. I did have to go into the settings and tell the TV that the component inputs were RGB rather than YPbPr.

I wouldn't say it's OFTEN used in audio practice... a broken shield connection on one end is relatively common in *balanced* lines (like mics, and "professional" equipment interconnects), where there are actually two signal lines, but not on unbalanced coaxial lines. In fact, in 25+ years in pro audio, I've NEVER seen a situation where an earth ground was *intentionally* used as a signal path return. If there was ever a ground-loop problem, we'd break the loop by using a ground-lift on the power, either with an appropriate adapter, or by flipping "ground lift" switch that some gear comes with. I *have* seen instances where an earth ground was *inadvertently* working as a signal path - setups where a signal would work even though we later discovered a broken shield on a cable - but NEVER where it was done that way intentionally. It's not even a safety matter... it's just not a reliable way of getting a signal return. I don't know what videos the OP is watching, but I think he's missing something in the translation.

Wow, how did I totally miss this thread before? FWIW, I've generally just soldered my PTZ wires onto a DB9 socket and plugged it right into the USB adapter, without the RS-485 converter... only one PTZ I ever ran into that ONLY worked with the converter.

Try reversing the wires? (Just kidding, that won't work...)

This is the one I was thinking of: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/English/product_info.aspx?type=339&&css=0&&id=8 Dahua-made but I don't know what their model number is, so I couldn't tell you who else carries the same thing.

This is the one I was thinking of: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/English/product_info.aspx?type=339&&css=0&&id=8 Not sure how an IP dome is relevant? My concern is a mounting box. All we do is cctv stuff anyways. Err... whoa, okay, I posted that in the wrong thread... or it somehow GOT posted in the wrong thread, pretty sure I STARTED in the right thread. Too strange. Don't have one to try yet...

Nevermind best practices, this is the ONLY way it should actually work. Without both the signal wire and a signal ground, there should be no video. If there IS video without the coax shield attached to the connectors at both ends, there's something wonky somewhere else - potentially something that creates a hazardous situation. No.

This is the one I was thinking of: http://www.dahuasecurity.com/English/product_info.aspx?type=339&&css=0&&id=8

Technically, once the camera is installed and set up, you should never have to access those connectors again. Four screws doesn't sound like such a big deal for something that you really shouldn't need to access more than once every couple years.

Only one I know of offhand, from Dahua... can't find a link for it right off...

Under $300.00. Good quality. Good picture. Still to vague. There's no one camera that's suitable for EVERY purpose. The more features and capabilities you add, the more the price goes up. You want cheap, you have to give something up.

Depends if your TV supports that input. Some newer ones I've seen don't have component at all. The input would also have to support R/G/B signal from the VGA, vs Y/Pb/Pr used for component video. Most SHOULD, but you'll want to make sure.

Did I tell ya? Vigil is a really nice system. The Presets dropdown in the PTZ control gives you limited listed options, but you SHOULD be able to enter a number directly and hit Goto. Not sure if this will actually work, but it's worth a shot Some cameras also respond to the various buttons under the Menu section. I assume you're running version 6 of the server and client? I've seen some early previews of the V7 client and it's looking even nicer: all the screen elements are becoming modular, so you can show the ones you want, hide the ones you don't, and rearrange them to suit your purposes. I'm told the ultimate plan is to remove the interface from the "server" component altogether, and move all the functions to the client, so you get the same look, feel, and control whether remote or at the console. This would make it more like other VMS systems such as Exacq. I do like that feature - very handy to be able to log in as an admin when we're onsite for service, and not have to worry about remembering to switching the system back to the user account when we leave. There IS an option to change the rendered live speed - if you go in the settings where you toggle between Software and Hardware rendering, there should be a checkbox for full framerate on a single view, and a dropdown for live framerate (slow/medium/fast) - when you change that, you get a warning that higher speeds are very CPU-intensive. The reason you can't do ePTZ with hardware-rendered view, and the reason the video is so fluid, is that the analog inputs are basically being piped directly to the video card overlay, rather than showing you the digitized, processed video, which CAN be digitally zoomed. With the client, of course, ALL you see is the digitized video, so it can be fully manipulated. BTW, when you're in software-rendered mode on the server, you can also rearrange the grid layout (right-click an area and select the camera you want to see there), which of course, also won't work with the hardware-rendered display.

Yup, that should do it.

I think the main thing is, IR is going to be pointless in your seascape camera. Go with the CNB for its superior low-light image so the sea will be more than just a big black spot at night.

Define "cost effective".

I have a similar kit that was used with a LinkSys WAP. The injector basically sends full 802.3af-compliant 44VDC over the cable, so it can be used with any PoE camera... the splitter at the camera end knocks it back down to 12VDC and spits it out on a standard barrel plug, for non-PoE cameras (or whatever other devices). 802.3af states it should provide "up to" 15.4W... so yes, it should be fine to drive an 11W camera... ASSUMING the step-down can handle the just-slightly-under 1A output current.

Very strange. VGA to HDMI *should* work, but from looking around online, it's probably gonna cost you at least $50 to find out. Since VGA is an analog signal and HDMI is digital, it requires a converter box, not just a cable adapter.

Nowhere near enough info here... What DVR? What type of file? If a Windows-based DVR, did you "Eject media" before removing the flash drive? What's giving you the error message - did the DVR include its own player with the footage?

Which one? If it's a component input, that could be the problem.

What input ARE you using on the TV?

Yeliya, you might want to give this thread a read, regarding the safety of using IR in baby's rooms: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29503

Probably just the pretty seascape...

Well, I'm just thinking from my own perspective, but if I came into this forum as a noob asking, "How does FOV affect facial recognition", and someone pointed me to your video, I'd probably be getting impatient by the three-minute mark, thinking, "How does rambling about his netbook answer my question about facial recognition?" It would be more useful to me, in that instance, to see an edited version showing, perhaps, you in the driveway, walking toward the camera, showing how you don't get the detail with a wide shot... them maybe have a preset that zooms the camera in on your face that illustrates how a tighter shot gives more detail. From there you could maybe switch to the two door shots (wide and close) demonstrating the difference in detail as well. The bit about burglars lingering at the door would be useful in a clip about choosing camera locations, but maybe not as relevant in simply describing FOV vs. detail. The good thing is, you could put together some more clips on specific subjects just from editing the video you have already. And again, nothing really wrong with the clip as it is, but having some "sub-sets" addressing individual topics would be great to point people to. And on that note... "I'm ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille."

According to Pentax's glossary, ALC is "An adjustment on video iris lenses also known as the "average to peak" control. This allows iris compensation for bright spots within the field of view either by exposing for them in particular (peak) or by taking an average across the entire scene." (http://www.pentaxcctvus.com/learn/index.html) - I don't believe the ALC should actually affect the image, as it should specifically relate to iris operation. It may be that it provides "peak vs. average" feedback to the camera, although that too shouldn't affect anything without an AI lens attached. It's possible, since these are highly customized cameras, that they have different, specific operation of the ALC, beyond the standard definition... that would probably be a question better directed at Mallincam.