Soundy

No, because they're used mostly in installations with one central power supply. Your average integrator/installer wouldn't want to pay extra with the camera for a single power supply when there may be more than a dozen cameras to install... not to mention then needing to find somewhere to plug them all in (since such a supply is usually a "wall-wart" style, that means a LOT of power bars). Typically the only cameras you'll find that include power supplies are the cheap-cheap 12V ones intended for hobbyist or DIY home users. Generally, yes, there are just two wires, whether it's 12VDC or 24VAC or anything else. Some cameras include a ground terminal as well, but I've never used that personally (I know there are some instances where you would).

Okay, here's a thought: if I'm reading this right, you have only one camera needed initially, to watch the front gate? Now, do all of these houses have internet access (preferably broadband)? If so, it becomes a lot easier, because all you need to do then is get the camera signal to the nearest house - the others will all be able to view it via internet. That's one of the beauties of IP cameras (wired or wireless) for this purpose - once the camera is on the network, anyone with the proper access is able to view it. Now, the camera at the back of the property will be another matter.... 600m is a LONG run for any sort of networking, especially if there are trees in the way. Wired ethernet maxes out at 100m without repeaters; wireless will be limited party by how much money you throw at high-gain directional antennas, and partly by how line-of-sight your path is - anything in the way will adversely affect the signal. What I might suggest for that, is a standard analog camera (don't forget, you have to get power to it as well), running signal over Cat5 using baluns, back to the nearest building, then using a video server box to tie it into the internet connection there. This would probably require either burying the cable (don't forget you need to get power out there as well; over that range, you'll want a pretty hefty cable, maybe 16/2 or even 14/2), or stringing it out there tree-to-tree. Not a long-term solution as the trees grow, but perhaps a serviceable one until either wireless technology improves or cable burial becomes more cost-effective. Again, though, the beauty of connecting this into the internet is, it doesn't have to go to the same place as the other camera, and anyone on the internet that you give access to, will be able to see it. This would even allow the owners to check in on their cameras when they're away from home!

Not sure if we're quite on the same page here... "IP wireless" and "WiFi" *are* the same thing. Whether you take an analog camera and plug it into a WiFi video server, or just use a wireless IP camera, you'll get the same range out of them (all else being equal). And no, all wired cameras are not analog... there are also hard-wired IP cameras. IP, or "internet protocol" (more properly, TCP/IP) is just a communication method than can be carried over a number of different media. That media can be a wired type, such as ethernet (like most workplace computers) or less common types like token-ring, fiber-optics, etc. It could also be a wireless connection, such as WiFi (short for "Wireless Fidelity", a very poorly chosen marketing name - the technical designation is IEEE 802.11a, b, g, or n). If you want to send the signal to your wireless router, then you MUST use WiFi, as that is the standard that wireless routers use. That means either using IP cameras of some sort, or a device called a "video server" that will take analog (NTSC or PAL) video in, and digitize it into a data stream for transmission via TCP/IP... and in your case, one that will then send it over WiFi (there are also models that just plug in to the network).

Looking forward to it This is actually a rather interesting dilemma... I love a good challenge, although doing it all via forum may prove to be a bit frustrating

Whole bunch of them here - clocks, pencil sharpeners, binders, smoke alarms, sprinkler heads, computer speakers... http://www.sperrywest.com/products-covert.html

Well, you could find another BNC end with a tail on it, and just splice it in... or just make one - short bit of RG59 with a BNC on it, and splice it in.

Okay, first thing to do here is determine that each part of the system is working properly. Quick primer on "typical" alarm panel inputs: Normally, most zones will want to operate as normally-closed... that is, they expect to see a connection across the terminals, and if that connection is broken, they trigger. Zone 7 on your panel by default is set as a "Panic" zone, which means it expects and open circuit, and connecting the two terminals (like with a panic button switch) will trigger the alarm. Those are the defaults for that panel, but all the zones appear to be programmable; we're just sticking with the defaults for simplicity. So first thing to do, if you haven't already, is to test that the panel is working properly. The Panic input should work even when disarmed, so simply touching a wire between terminals 8 and 10 should trigger an alarm on the panel. Assuming that's all good, you can test that the DVR's outputs are working with a multimeter or continuity tester. It's hard to tell from the diagram in the PDF manual just because the picture is so small, but output 1 SHOULD be the two R1 terminals. According to page 48 of the PDF, if you're on the "Alarm Out" tab of the setup menu, "Alarm 1~12 : It sends the alarm output to checked ports. From 1 to 4, the output is dry contact. So you can connect directly the other electronic devices using this ports. From 5 to 12, the output is TTL. So you can use this signal to control the other devices." So for each camera you want to trigger an output, you'd check the "Alarm 1" box. For the sake of testing, you can just check them all right across the top row. Connecting your continuity tester across the R1 terminals should now tell you whether that relay is being tripped. If it's set for NC (normally closed) operation, you'll see continuity when nothing is happening, and lose it when the event triggers. If it's set for NO (normally open), you'll get no response until an event triggers, and then see continuity.

There are a couple options... you could use a wireless "video server" box to take signal from an analog camera and digitize it for IP/WiFi... or you can use the likes of a "gaming adapter" (the type designed to plug into a gaming console's network port to make it wireless) to connect a wired IP camera to. Either way, you'll still need to upgrade your antenna... an amp may not be necessary, as a high-gain directional antenna may well do the trick. The only catch with that is, your WiFi device (camera, adapter or game server) must have the ability for you to remove the included antenna and connect an external one.

Can you maybe post some pictures of these cameras? The internals, the connectors, etc. There must be some way to tell what they are... perhaps some internal markings on the circuit boards or chips. If they were ever made available for sale in the US, there should be an FCC ID number silkscreened to the circuit boards, from which we can look up some manufacturer information at the FCC website (www.fcc.gov). Google didn't find any info on that matrix... is ECTO the manufacturer?? Hmmm, you say there's Cat5 running to the cameras - are they using video baluns? Or does the Cat5 just plug straight into the camera? Do they have separate connections for the power and control signals? For the age, it's unlikely that they're IP cameras... I've seen several Pelco models with built-in balun outputs though. I'm thinking that "matrix" box may be primarily just a big mass of baluns that then just spits out video over coax, in which case it could stay in place and feed video to the DVRs instead of to the MUXes. If that's the case, you SHOULD be able to slot in new cameras with the existing setup, but it may take a little doctoring - if the old cameras do, in fact, have built-in baluns, you'll need to add baluns to the new cameras, and just split out the Cat5 for your video and control signals.

Most lenses of that type are DC-controlled, so you'll want to set the first switch to DC. That allows the camera to adjust the lens iris depending on the lighting. The iris level control lets you manually adjust a "starting point" for the iris. The other switches aren't related to the lens.

Sounds like a reasonable guess on the wiring, but it would be a good idea to be sure before hooking up power. This appears to be the manufacturer's website: http://www.checkpointsystems.com/default.aspx?page=clarityptzsys but they don't seem to have a lot of info there - you could always try contacting them directly for a manual. *Technically* to daisy-chain cameras, you would run a pair of control wires from the controller to the first camera, then parallel them from that camera to the next, and so on... but in most instances, you can just run a pair from each camera back to the controller and parallel them together there.

Yeah, Google found the camera right away, on the manufacturer's website: http://www.extremecctv.com/product_detail.php?product_id=204 From the picture on the installation diagram, looks pretty standard... I'd say my answer above is correct: "It's near impossible for anyone to say for certain from the limited info you give (ie. the photo) but I'd say 95% chances are, the yellow is video, red is +12VDC, and the bare wire (spiral-wrapped shield around both?) is a common ground."

There you go, Niguel... grab the manual there, it has everything you need. The alarm-out configuration is shown on page 48 of the PDF (section 3-3-4). In this case, it looks like the relays can be set up to operate normally-open OR normally-closed, so they'll work with any of the standard zones on the alarm panel.

There are some samples here: http://www.planetsecurityusa.com/cctv_guide.html#fieldofview http://www.vihon.com/Vihon_Calculators/Field_of_View_Examples/body_field_of_view_examples.html http://www.ezcctv.com/cctv-lens-guide.htm There are lots of calculator apps that will let you figure out the field of view for different lenses and different focal lengths on different cameras, but there's a simple web-based one you can try here: http://dvr.videotechnology.com/lense/

Bingo... now we just need Scorpion to work his magic and find us the right manual! While we're waiting, meantime... it sounds like you have four separate alarm outputs available, and you should be able to connect the panel zone to any one of the R1/R1, R2/R2, R3/R3 or R4/R4 pairs. The trick then is, you'll need to configure in the DVR, which alarm output you want to trigger on motion. For example, you can probably tell it, motion on camera 1 will trigger an alarm on output on R1; motion in a certain zone on camera 5 will trigger an alarm on output R2; and so on.

VI absolutely supports audio: http://video-insight.com/Purchase/Capture-Cards.aspx "The Video Insight VN30 is an entry level PCI card featuring four BNC inputs and one channel of audio." "The Video Insight VJ60 is a solid performer featuring sixteen inputs and four channels of audio." "The Video Insight VJ120 is a high end card featuring sixteen inputs and eight channels of audio." "The Video Insight VJ240 is a high end card featuring sixteen inputs and eight channels of audio."

The pinouts for a "standard" auto-iris drive are shown here: http://www.cctvforum.com/post-60888.html That may help you in checking voltages and determining the pinouts on this camera. What is the exact model number of this camera?

The only limitation I see to a standalone system here is your retention requirement: up-to-32 cameras, 4CIF @ 15fps, for 90+ days, is going to be a TON of space required. As an example, I have one site with 23 analog and 5 1.3MP IP cameras, averaging about 4fps per camera (a few at 3, a few at 5), with all but three or four of the analogs recording at 4CIF/D1. Even with motion record on all cameras, they're JUST BARELY getting 90 days retention... with 9.5TB(!!!) of storage in the form of three 1TB drives in the DVR, and an 8x1TB RAID5 NAS array. To go to 15fps on all cameras, you're quite possibly looking at needing a 16-drive RAID array loaded up with 1.0-1.5TB drives... and you'd need a standalone that supports external storage (be it NAS, USB or firewire). All that said, you might find a PC-based system running Video Insight worth looking at - it fits all your criteria except for complete DVR management through the web interface, but you can add an open-source VNC server to the machine, and access it either through the web interface some have, or by slipping a VNC client on your remote machine - most have Windows, OSX and Linux clients available.

I've used VideoInsight's web client successfully on Firefox as well as a number of mobile browsers on PalmOS, Windows Mobile, and MotoQ. Should work fine on Safari as well, I would think. They have a demo of their web interface on their website at http://www.demovi.com/

^That is correct. The main thing to prevent blur is a faster shutter speed on the camera - it has nothing to do with the recording device. Unfortunately, 'ye canna change the laws o' physics', and a faster shutter means less light reaching sensor, and thus a darker image. Thus, it's important to either have "faster" lens (one with a larger aperture), and/or good lighting on the situation - that's why red-light cameras have flashes with them

You know, if you'd just stated right off the top that you wanted a camera for a baby monitor, you might have got some more useful responses, and possibly even some better suggestions. When you link two no-name cameras and ask which is better, though, there's really not much we can do for you, because we have know way of knowing, better for WHAT? As it is, you're looking at upwards of $250 (with shipping) for either of those... that seems a little spendy for a baby monitor. What's wrong with simple purpose-built designs like these? http://www.hdtv.ca/reviews/accessories/summer_infant_monitor.php http://www.thenewparentsguide.com/baby-monitors-1.htm http://www.pricecanada.com/detail.php?product_id=523541 http://shop.ebay.com/items/__baby-monitor-camera_W0QQQ5ftrkparmsZ66Q253A2Q257C65Q253A15Q257C39Q253A1QQ_scZ1QQ_sopZ15QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14?_stpos=&_fcid=2&gbr=1

Ah yes, but you're not using the Vigil software with other people's capture cards, are you? That's the problem - the OP has existing computers with capture cards, they just want improved software.

Well, I'm not familiar with your "analog matrix" device, but a few thoughts come to mind... I guess the most important question is, do ALL the camera lines run directly tp the same place, ie. at this matrix device? If so, then the solution becomes relatively easy: drop in DVRs as necessary and just connect the cameras to them in whatever arrangement suits your needs. Now, I'll start right off suggesting you take a look at Camacc's Vigil DVRs, because all your needs could be nicely handled with as few as two of them. At the upper end of their scale, they have a 32-channel, 960fps (30fps *per channel* system if your needs are really that extreme... right down to 60fps, 16-channel systems. Assuming, again, that all the cameras have a direct run back to the same point, it would be as simple as just disconnecting from the matrix, and connecting to the DVRs. For PTZ control, as long as the cameras support Pelco D or P protocols, or if they're a model that Vigil has support for, they can all be controlled through software. If they have RS-232/422/485 support, they can be easily connected to a serial port on the DVR (whether onboard, or using USB-to-serial adapters); as well, some Vigil models have multi-output RS-485 ports combined with the capture cards. Several cameras can easily be daisy-chained off a single port so you don't actually have to have 60 ports available. As far as having everything in one place, Vigil's remote client does a stellar job of letting you view and control multiple servers from a single interface, and has PTZ control through that interface as well. Say, for example, you have a seven-floor store with 10 cameras on each floor, and each floors cameras simply terminate at a room on that floor... you could drop a 16-channel DVR on each floor, then network them all together, and access them all through a single client interface anywhere else on the network. Vigil also allows you to run a central database for multiple servers, and a NAS storage array could be added to the network to provide shared storage space for all of them. Oh, and don't rule out IP: internet access is not required at all for any IP camera system. The DVRs/NVRs and cameras can live on their own completely isolated network. Devices like the Highwire can even be used to run 10/100 networking over existing coax cables (they can be a little spendy, but for situations like this, it's a lot cheaper than pulling new Cat-5e.) And once again, Vigil DVRs integrate analog and IP cameras seamlessly in one interface. Those are just some initial thoughts based on somewhat limited information... more details on how things are actually laid out and wired there would be helpful.

Unless the light has some special device to create huge amounts of EMI, no, there should be no issue with interference.

Putting the camera right beside the light shouldn't pose any problems. The only one I could really foresee if if the light is in or near the camera's direct field of view, which could cause flare and washout, but if they're both pointing at the same area away from the building there should be no issue. If you're using a motion-activated floodlight to illuminate the scene you're recording, though, you probably don't need to bother with IR cameras.