Soundy

So the first question is, do you want the cameras close-by and able to view over those distances, or do you need the cameras that far away, or can they be somewhere in the middle? Do you need really good clarity of those areas, or just over-views? Are there specific areas you need to cover (gates, openings to the forest, etc.) or very broad views of entire fields? Are you trying to cover the entire plot, or just the perimeter? There are a number of different ways to go, but a lot depends on the answers to the above. Yes, it's possible to run analog cameras 2000' over UTP with active baluns, but you'll still need to power them locally, or run line voltage to their locations along with your video feed (and keep in mind the two lines should be separated). PTZ (Pan/Tilt/Zoom) is the term you're looking for. This is a good option if the cameras are to be use mainly for live viewing under operator control. They tend to be of limited usefulness for security recording because they still only look at one thing at a time. It depends on the devices used. Some can transmit video and power over UTP or coax for long distances, but you do get a lot of voltage loss over distance. You'd need baluns or extenders that can send the control data over that cable as well. The power is trickier for PTZs because they need a lot more of it than fixed cameras, and so you're probably better off to power them locally, if you go that way.

That's a lot of light... with any decent camera, you shouldn't need IR at all. Examples, with street lights only: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=25383&start=59

YOU try being a moderator and dealing with the weekly creation of new accounts from Shenzen manufacturers using basically the same tactics of pasting in some Wiki article and then adding their own links at the bottom, coming in here with no intention of being a useful participant. The posts you responded to, and the user you PM'd, was never going to come back except maybe to spam some more. These people have nothing to add and are not needed here.

I found another one that puts the drop at 750mA at 0.9V, too... Suffice to say, this is another reason I like a GOOD TDN camera like the CNB Monalisas, rather than something that has to rely on IR at night - the VCM-24VF draws a max of 180mA at 12VDC, half that at 24VAC.

The factors missing are the actual output voltage of the power supply(ies) (regulated vs. unregulated), and how much loss the cameras can handle before they drop out... But in general, you should have no problem at 150', even using two pairs. According to this calculator, and assuming a regulated output of exactly 12V: http://www.netkrom.com/voltage_loss_over_cat5_calculator.php ... with three pairs for power, you should see a loss of about 0.6V for the 750mA camera, and 0.4V for the 500mA camera. If the power supplies are not regulated, you'll probably be seeing closer to 16VDC out of them, and losses will not be a factor, even using just two pairs for power. Some cameras can tolerate lower voltages as well - the CNB dual-voltage cameras, for example, list "12VDC/24VAC" but will actually take anything between 10V to around 30V, AC or DC, because they rectify and regulate the power internally.

Welcome, from Vancouver. How about them Leafs?

^Most of them used it because it came pre-loaded on their PCs thanks to Microsoft's per-CPU licensing agreements. And anyway, Windows 98 was worlds better than 95.

They did have to use different methods to beat different types of sensors... a combination of sensors might be more reliable.

Lots. You want to look for "hybrid DVRs".

It wasn't, actually. Do some research.

Stop worrying about TVL, there's far more to cameras than TVL... even IF you assume that the TVL numbers are accurate. You get what you pay for in this industry, and a $45 camera is going to give a $45 camera's worth of quality.

Single-port or even two-port can be handy for those one-off installs, but really, an injector for EIGHT cameras just seems like unnecessary complexity, not to mention unnecessary cost, especially when a PoE switch can be had for so much less.

Yeah, well, since ours was for a crane company, we did it all hanging in a basket under an 80' truck crane...

Seems a basic PTZ camera would be more efficient and certainly less hassle overall... even just a simple PT webcam.

Obviously the Illuminati overlords are having their CIA minions infiltrate the OP's house and randomly move objects around in an attempt to make them paranoid... for what nefarious purpose, we may never know... (sorry, OP, that wasn't a dig at you...)

I wish I could find my pictures of this site... we have a FLIR wide-eye camera and two FLIR SR-19s (all thermal imaging) feeding an ObjectVideo analytics system, triggering a Pelco Esprit PTZ, all on top of a 50'-ish tower. Nice setup.

EMT = "Electrical Metallic Tubing". ENT = "Electrical Non-metallic Tubing" (the corrugated flexible PVC stuff). PVC = "Polyvinyl Chloride" (referring to the composition of the material).

Depends on the voltage and current draw the camera requires, and the length of the run.

^That will work to split the signal ONCE. Any more than two displays, you need an active splitter.

The company name is "Yet Another Chinese Spammer That's The Same As All The Others". Go to Google and plug in "CCTV company in Shenzen" - choose any of the results randomly, and that will be the company name.

Don't bother - just another Chinese spammer copying-and-pasting Wikipedia articles or someone else's sales copy in an attempt to appear relevant. Will probably never log back in again, either - these types just pop in, post a bunch of plagiarized articles with links back to their websites, and then disappear into the ether. If people actually patronize them, it only encourages them to persist in their spamming.

It make no functional difference. We've used station-Z (22/4) for power for... well, since before I started working for this company, over eight years ago. We typically double-up the wire for better current capacity (red/yellow together, and green/black together). There are a few practical benefits to this: for one, it gives you an extra pair of wires everywhere, for those "just in case" instances (like when a gas station customer wanted us to add another camera to the pump islands - underground conduit to the island is sealed before the station goes online, so running another coax out wasn't possible; I simply split out the 22/4 pairs to the camera nearest the new location, used the red and black to power both cams, and put baluns on the green and yellow to add a video feed). Two, if you do any other work that uses 22/4 (alarms, intercoms, access controls), it reduces the number of different types of cable you have to tote around. As far as Siamese cable, I've only used it a couple times for my own installs (where it was provided by the company we were subbing to), and come across it in a few other installs... personally, I find it a PITA to work with. Snaking it through girders and ceiling hangers can be a hassle, because it really only bends in one axis. These days, I forego all of the above and just use Cat5e with baluns - smaller, more flexible, easier to work with, and far more versatile all around. I can put video, power, and PTZ all on one wire... or multiple video runs on one wire... it also works for access controls, phones and intercoms (and network, of course), so as above, it reduces the number of different boxes of cable I have to tote around... and it provides an easy upgrade path to IP cameras later. Right now my van has two boxes of Cat5e, and one small box of 22/4... vs. the old days with a box of Cat5e, two of coax, two of 22/4, and sometimes one of shielded 18/2.

Remind me to get naked the next time I'm around your house... that'll learn ya! I was going to suggest this as well. Not only are they practically (probably 99.99%) unpickable, but it requires a special tool to cut the keys, and only fully certified shops are given that tool, so it's not something that any shyster with a needle file can dash off on a whim. The keys are all serialized as well, and registered to the person or company they're cut for. http://www.mul-t-lock.ca/ As far as jamming wired cameras... sure it's POSSIBLE, but it would be highly impractical without some military-grade equipment... and it would probably show up as interference on your recording. To tapping the phones: the easiest way would be for them to simply split off the line outside of your house. You could ask the phone company to check for this, as wiretapping is a *federal* offense.

Welcome aboard... from .ca

At about half way down the wall there is a piece of 1x6 or similar going horizontally across inside the wall, it is just flat against the drywall though, thats what they mounted the drywall too I imagine. From the ceiling I can see the metal grids every 16 inches or so across, instead of wood studs. It looks like they used this metal instead, in fact this is everywhere. Its thin sheet metal though, in a U shape. I guess I can mount to that, or like you said, put a piece of plywood and then mount to that instead. Thanks Steel studs. Very common in commercial construction in N.A. Obviously not used for load-bearing walls, but with the drywall attached, it forms a very solid structure. Use a fine-thread drywall screw and it will tap itself right into the stud, no pre-drilling required. And yes, standard spacing should be 16", center-to-center.