Soundy

I don't think I've ever put anything on these threads other than Teflon thread tape, or a brush-on thread sealer... never had a corrosion issue. Only problem I've ever had is when the locking set-screw rusts so you can't loosen it to remove the back-box.

http://www.commfront.com/rs232-rs485-rs422-serial-converters/RS485-RS422-Converter.htm

Sorry, I don't know what I was talking about, but i have 12VDC psu. Then WHAT IS THE PROBLEM??? First you said: Then you said: Now it's: So which is it? The camera will work with all three voltages... if the camera has a barrel jack and you want to use one those barrel plugs, you don't need any adapter, just a pair of wires from the power supply to the plug. If the camera is like the one showed on the PDF, you don't even need the barrel - the wire ends just push into the spring terminals.

You have a 12VAC power supply, just use that. If it'll accept both 24VAC and 12VDC, it should work with 12VAC as well.

According to this doc: http://www.denpo.com.tw/products/cctv/CCC1370H-2.pdf that camera should support 24VAC...

I guess the mighty Dahua really doesn't do it all... sorry, Rory

me too. I have a software to show as well, very flexbile and customized. Try PARTICIPATING for a while first, before you start the sales pitches.

My buddy and I have been admiring the Tek4 tools for a long time... last few months, Home Depot has been blowing them out, usually at half price or less, so we've been stocking up. I have four of the 1W flashlights (marked down from $20 to $10), three of the utility lights ($7), got the multimeter for $44... scored the display unit of the inspection scope for $50(!!)... got the jobsite camera off the display for $50 as well. We stock up on the batteries anytime we find them, because once those are gone... Also have the laser level, a couple of the power sources... really wanted to get the headphones when they got stupid cheap... oh yeah, and the batteries normally cost $13 each, and the standard wall charger goes for $12, but every now and then they have a package with the dual-port quick charger WITH a battery for $20.

^You can always just replace the chuck... This is the one... the version they sell today is pretty much identical to the one I got in 1990 - shows you how reliable the design is: (Pictured is the single-speed version... mine are both dual-speed, with a slider on top to switch the gearbox). I love the form factor with the thumb control... the forward/reverse push switch like you find on most drills, is really awkward on something this small... and the design that has the rocker switch in the trigger position is just plain awkward, especially when removing a screw (having to both push and pull at the same time is WEIRD). I also have this Makita... 7.2V Lithium *impact driver* in a nearly-identical form factor: The Milwaukee is great for working on computers, because of its slower speed and lack of excessive torque... the Makita is just too fast if you want to back screws out just a little, or snug them up lightly.

We usually use something like this (although a somewhat sturdier variant of the design):

If everything is fine until you connect the CATV, then I'd say the problem is in the CATV line, most likely a bad ground somewhere. When a friend of mine got her first cable modem, one of the big old space-heater types, it worked great... when she got upgraded by the cable company, her internet didn't work anymore. It took several visits by numerous technicians (most of them fresh out of electronics grad school), all of them testing the line with their fancy testers and finding good signal, everything reading fine... finally one of the old-timers came out and checked things... found the grounding block for the incoming line wasn't properly grounded, and there was a 120V, 60Hz signal on the line, acting almost like a "carrier" and messing up the new modem (the old modem, he figured, had more robust filtering and so wasn't affected by the extraneous signal). He connected the block to a new, solid earth ground, and the problem went away. I'd tend to suspect you're seeing some sort of grounding issue or a stray current in the CATV line as well... maybe not the SAME problem, but something similar going on.

Does it have a heater/blower as well?

But the camera *requires up to 3.6A at 12VDC* according to the listed spec.

Number of 32-channel hybrid here: http://www.3xlogic.com/prod/599/pro-series-hybrid-video-recorder

The IQ511 is 1.3MP. Click the image to load the full-size version. "Non-megapixel" was referring to the lens only.

I was looking at getting into a Makita system, but they don't have a vacuum, and I want a system that has a vacuum. My coworker picked up a six-tool Ryobi One+ package a few years ago and has been steadily adding to it, including most recently, a really nice little canister vac that's GREAT for pulling string through conduit. The One+ system is nice because the entire line works with the same batteries, whether NiCad or Lithium, whereas everyone else has at least two or three different styles/levels/voltages of batteries... and they seem to have a wider assortment of tools than any of the other big names, including a wicked six-at-once battery charger/conditioner (most I've seen from anyone else is a two-slot charger). Only drawback to the Ryobi stuff is, it tends to be more of a "handyman-grade" tool... which is great for stuff that doesn't get used a lot, but for those go-to tools that you need all the time, it doesn't stand up so well (the drill that came with his kit sort of self-destructed on him a little while back...)

It's eBay. It LIES.

^Some cameras will let you set a fixed shutter... some will let you set a min/max value... some don't let you set it at all, and it's just controlled by the camera.

1990, working in car audio... all the other installers had either 7.2V Makita drills... I bought a 2.4V Milwaukee cordless screwdriver. For anything but actually drilling, it kept up with them nicely. Was eight years before the first battery kacked completely, another three years for the second. I still have that same screwdriver today, still going strong. Got a second one for home, too. 22+ years later, still gotta go to Milwaukee first.

Calculated voltage at camera should be 2.8V... measured is 1.8V... not that far off. But there is another problem: the POWER SUPPLY he has listed as 1.5A... that would definitely account for the other lost volt.

http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=52.96&voltage=24&phase=ac&noofconductor=2&distance=15&distanceunit=meters&amperes=1.5&x=68&y=10

So your "surveillance" switch doesn't connect back to first switch or router via gigabit? 10/100 is ok? You mean to the "Office LAN Switch"? No, 10/100 is fine... the ONLY reason it links into that network at all is for internet connectivity, mainly so the DVR and NAS can send alert emails, and so the IT manager and select people at head office can connect the remote client via VPN. The bottleneck is always the internet connection itself, anyway (probably 1-2Mbps upstream on most sites). If you remove that connection, the whole camera/DVR/NAS system still functions on its own.

If the DVR has gigabit, then use gigabit for the NAS as well. If the DVR's port isn't gigabit, then it really doesn't matter.