Soundy

According to this calculator, using all three extra pairs, you should see about 1.4V loss; if the power supply voltage is adjustable up to 13.5V, you should be fine. No. No.

OR it could be the aliens checking out your defenses before they attack your home.

dust motes? Never heard of that but it sounds reasonable. You know when a sunbeam comes in the window, all that stuff floating in the light? Outdoors, it could also be pollen or other type of airborne allergens.

dust motes? Never heard of that but it sounds reasonable. You know when a sunbeam comes in the window, all that stuff floating in the light? Outdoors, it could also be pollen or other type of airborne allergens.

Vigil DVRs have a very clean, intuitive search interface, where you can directly set the date and time for searching, as well as limiting the search by various parameters such as recording type (constant, motion, alarm, etc.), select specific cameras, etc. Results show up as timelines displaying the different types of recording... in this case, all motion-based (the blue bars indicate where recording was motion-triggered):

Webs, flying insects... or most likely, dust motes. All of these things will very nicely reflect the IR in front of the camera.

Assuming the seller is being 100% honest...

What's YOUR definition of "cheap"? I doubt it will be the same as most others here...

Chances are, if the plate belongs to a known "problem" person, then the plate and car themselves will also be well-known to police. I've reported suspicious vehicles before and based solely on the description over the phone, they often say they know who I'm referring to.

No need to fear encoders - you set them up the same as you would an IP camera, you just connect your own cameras to them.

Legally speaking, recording the presence of a car, ONLY proves the presence of that car... not of its owner or any passengers (unless they stop and get out). Here in BC, a speeding ticket (among other moving violations) typically results in two penalties: a fine, and penalty points applied to the driver's license (which may result in further penalties applied later to that person's insurance). However, when we had photo radar, a photo speeding ticket included only the fine, applied to the registered owner of the car. Because the driver's identity could not be proven, points were not assigned. IF, however, the owner chose to nominate someone else as the driver, that person's license COULD then be assigned points (pending burden of proof, of course).

Of course not - by the time he pays import duties, taxes, bribes, etc., even a bottom-of-the-barrel ACTI is costing him four figures.

None. I would keep it separate. So you would sell the the customer 2 solutions? WHY? He's probably charging them per VMS - two separate clients = double-charge.

These two requirements potentially cancel each other out: the only way you're going to see in *darkness* is with IR illuminators... but unless you can open the window and aim the camera out through the opening, you'll end up with the IR reflecting off the glass and washing out the picture.

They still have to be sealed well enough that the residue doesn't get INSIDE the housing... most cheap ones I've seen have more ventilation than a McDonalds burger line.

Ah, there is that... how about some kind of spring-clamped slotted frame in front of the glass that you could just drop in replacement cutouts? Ah, but that's the beauty of the 35xx series: the glass is a rectangular piece clamped in by screw-down clamps; you could get them cut at any glass shop. The only issue I'd foresee with that is the same human element: the maintenance guy will have to be on the ball enough to get them on straight, or at least straight enough to fully cover the lens area. How about a combination of the two ideas? Use the Pelco housings, or something else with a readily-available glass design, and then use screen protectors on that? The maintenance guy can swap the screen protectors as needed, and over time, if the glass itself does become affected (picture: maint guy is out of protectors so just peels off the old one and leaves it at that), you can make a service call to replace it.

How about using box cameras inside sealed housings (Pelco 35xx, for example) with replaceable front glass? Then if it ever gets etched or embedded with particles, just swap the glass (nice little rectangular piece, should be able to get a ton of them cut for cheap).

Don't forget to factor in labor costs (UTP is easier to work with, especially if pulling through tight space), excess cable costs (leftover Siamese won't be good for much else; leftover Cat5e can be used for all sorts of other things), and potentially, future usability (Cat5e allows easy upgrade to IP cams... Siamese, not so much, at least not cheaply). Around here at least, Siamese runs about three-and-a-half times the cost of Cat5e at retail ($158/500' vs. $89/1000')... couldn't tell you the difference in wholesale because I've never had to buy Siamese wholesale, but I would expect it's about the same ratio. Makes the math pretty simple, I'd say.

Personally, I think I'd find it easier to lug a few extra connectors up the tower, than the whole box of cable...

This is why I use compression BNCs

I see the problem: the power switch is turned off! Anyway... you're trying to connect on port 8080... however, many routers use 8080 for their default remote-admin port, which could explain why you're kicking straight into the router's config page. You may need to either select another port for the DVR, or see if you can find a remote-admin setting and either disable it, or change its port.

_____________________________________________________________________ Thank you very much for replying. Your opinion is very important to us. 1.the sensor is 1/2.7", not 1/2" So it's actually closer to 1/3". The difference isn't really relevant. Who is "we"? That is more commonly known as a "bullet" style. This is what's usually called a "box" or "body" camera (not sure where "body" comes from - bad Engrish maybe): If you're providing POWER OVER ETHERNET, then what is the point of using WiFi for the signal, when there's a wired ethernet connection present?

No more so than a 10"-ish LCD monitor. Netbooks tend to be very light. You could possibly go with a tablet PC as well (keeping in mind that most cameras will require the use of Windows at some point). Same idea as the PinPoint, which inserts in a PoE line and "splits off" a port for the laptop... except this includes a battery PoE supply. Neat idea, but I don't really get the point, since you'll have to power the camera for regular operation anyway, at some point. Might be handy in rare circumstances where you'll need to set the camera up and connect it without power and not be able to return to it after it's powered... WiFi is really the most convenient if you're doing multiple cameras - just a basic, cheap N router, plug on of the LAN ports into your camera network, disable its DHCP server if necessary... move around freely to all the cameras whether they're PoE or direct powered. If you have a camera that doesn't require ActiveX or a Windows-based utility, you COULD even set it up from a smart phone or non-PC tablet (iPad, Android, etc.)

If your router has a DMZ option, try setting the DVR's IP in there... that will forward ALL otherwise-unassigned ports to the DVR. That will tell you in short order if the problem is port forwarding.

As long as you use a good-quality shielded VGA cable, you can do 100' or more, easily. An easier option might be to pull some Cat5e and use either VGA baluns, or a KVM extender (if you want a mouse/keyboard at the remote end as well).