Soundy

BAHAHAHAAHAH!

I believe that spec means the shield consists of 8 bundles of 16 wires (or maybe 16 bundles of 8 wires?), each 0.12mm (about 37 gauge). I would assume that is interwoven (braided) like the picture below. Interesting interpretation... makes sense to me!

What brand is the cable? I'd guess the specs probably came from the manufacturer's website or spec sheet, so they might have a description of the terms. Now the following is strictly an educated guess... I would think the "0.61" refers to the size of the conductor, possibly diameter in mm. I would read it as "Aluminum foil with 96% copper-clad aluminum braid"... is this an RG6 cable? PVC would be the type of insulation/jacket on the wire. The number probably relates to its thickness. 6.0 I would expect is still referring to the jacked on the coax; 4.3 would be the jacket on the 18/2. That's all I got. Again, find out who makes the cable and check their site. Or ask whoever provided the spec - hopefully if they wrote it, they'll know what it means.

Other than the higher cost of a PoE switch (which offsets the cost of a separate power supply and separate power wiring anyway), I can't think of any disadvantages to it...

Direct attacks are SO 2005. Social-engineering hacks are much more modern.

Yeah, we'll send the Samurai Sheep after you!

^He could have faulty cameras... I know that's unheard of, but hey...

NINJA cows, you mean!

Hi there! This forum is normally for surveillance/CCTV DVRs, not home PVRs, but I may have a solution for you. I haven't tried this myself with my new DCX3400-M, but I'm told it works: you need a firewire port on your computer, and you connect the firewire port on your DCX to it... make sure the drivers update so it's visible to the system. Then you use a video capture program that can capture from a firewire device (which would normally be something like a MiniDV camcorder) - that should be able to access and capture the video from your PVR in realtime (meaning a one-hour show will take one hour to copy). For more help, you could try forums like www.dslreports.com or www.digitalhome.ca

Sounds like it's just a bandwidth limitation. Does your phone have WiFi? Maybe try it from a WiFi connection away from home (at a coffee shop or something).

See, I solve the whole problem by not using Arecont cameras anyway. " title="Applause" />

Considering that's something that needs to be done maybe 2 or 3 times during setup, and then probably never again... it doesn't bother me too much. Having to uninstall redundant, irrelevant software that's put on without my permission and set to auto-start, just to use the setup tool... THAT bothers me.

Yeah, don't forget after you're done, to uninstall the Arecont NVR that it installs for you without ever asking your permission.

Except in a hollow block, the nails will slide right through

The drill on slow is for actually driving in the screws... you'll want to use high speed for drilling the hole. A hammer drill is preferred, but a regular drill should be okay (if tedious) if the block is soft enough. You'll have the same problem drilling for the nylon plugs, too, BTW. BTW, this little hammer-drilling adapter is a great device for limited use: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/PowerToolAccessories/DrillBitsSetsAccessories/PRD~0543859P/Mastercraft+Hammer+Drilling+Adaptor.jsp?locale=en For a hollow block, depending on how thick/strong the walls are, you may want to try getting at least a couple screws into the webbing, whether it be at the ends of the block, or down the middle (H-block).

Tapcons are the cat's arse. Just remember to drill deep enough, they work better with their own drill bits (standard masonry bits will work, but their own are better), and DON'T use an impact driver to put the screws in (standard cordless drill on low speed preferred). Remember that once the power supply is snugged to the wall, there's very little outward force pulling on the screw -99% of the force will be downward, and if you're nice and tight, friction of the PSU against the surface will alleviate much of that as well.

All those pics are only 800x600. 2MP should be around 1920x1080. IE is just saving the picture as it's displayed, not the full-size video frame.

I don't remember seeing any cows around your place...

IP cams have nothing to do with the card... however, you'll need to find software that specifically states it's for a "hybrid" system, or that it supports IP cameras... and again, make sure that it supports the camera(s) you want to use. Either that, or you'll need to run separate NVR software for the IP cameras. Sometimes. A lot of cheap cards are based on the same chipsets, often with fairly generic drivers, which means they'll sometimes work with generic software. SOMETIMES. There are no guarantees with cheap no-name stuff, and the vendor generally won't support your attempts to use anything beyond what they give you. Honestly, you'd be better off to pay a little more for something name-brand like Aver for a card and hybrid software, and get the support that comes with it.

That's actually a pretty common lens - f/1.4 is fairly middle-of-the-road as far as CCTV lenses go. It's an auto-iris lens; the wire connects to a small motor that opens and closes the aperture as the light level changes. I wouldn't be surprised if you never find details on the "CamEra" - a clever play on words like that is the hallmark of a generic offshore brand.

That depends. At 200' there may be a measurable difference, but not likely a noticeable one. At 500+ you'd probably start to see some serious degradation in the image with coax, but there should be little or none with the UTP. Note that this assumes you're using decent-quality baluns; some no-name junk may not fare as well.... or it may be just fine, but that's the risk you take with no-name junk

Well then, you've come to the right place As with cameras, DVRs, and everything else, there is no "best"... only what is "best suited" to a specific need. Criteria can be distance required, the space the cables have to run through (ie. small conduit), the number of runs needed, and of course, total cost. RG59 is fine for 200', but not so much at 500+. UTP (not necessarily Cat5e) with *good* passive baluns will be fine for signal at that distance, although power could become an issue depending on the cameras. If I was running that far, though, I'd be more likely to look at powering those cameras locally and running multiple video feeds over a lesser number of Cat5. For example, if you have four cameras in a remote building, you could power them there, then run all four video feeds over a single Cat5 (or Cat3, or Cat6) back to the DVR's location. For 200', you should be fine running power and video on a single Cat5, especially if the cameras are non-IR, non-PTZ (both things that draw a lot of current), and/or can be powered by 24V rather than 12V (voltage drop over distance is less).

I googled "mandatory cctv for new businesses" and found this: http://www.cordilleravoice.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=583:mandatory-installation-of-cctv-by-business-firms-in-crime-prone-areas-mulled&catid=91:baguio-city&Itemid=157 Maybe that's what you were thinking of? Edit: got this one too: http://widbox.com/cops-pushing-for-mandatory-cctv-in-business-establishments/f25151/ Unfortunately the link in the story is broken so the rest of the original article doesn't come up... I did find this in a separate search though: http://www.gmanews.tv/story/208483/cops-pushing-for-mandatory-cctv-in-business-establishments