CCTV_Tech

This is not a security camera application, It will be hooked up to a monitor with 4 other cameras so the operator can see what the machine is doing without risking getting crushed by it.

 

A 50mm equivalent lens would be fine from the 35mm film world, no fisheye 180 degree lenses required.

What size of camera do you need?

Most analog security cameras are based on a circuit board approx 1.5" square with a lens affixed to the board. Therefore the smallest 'normal' cameras tend to be around 2" diameter and 2" deep, since there is often space left open for internal cabling, the IR illumination, etc.

The cheap 'board' analog cameras just add a bracket or a little square case to the circuit board and that's it.

You're asking for one with a ethernet connection, which typically makes the camera huge, as there is a lot of circuitry in there to make the network connection work.

Your best bet is to do a google search for 'industrial machine vision cameras', as i cannot think of a single security camera that fit your needs. In general, it might make sense to use analog video for this type of application, since it is simpler and cheaper. Ethernet is great for many things, but in terms of life-safety, I would trust analog much more.

Anyone know of anyway to view geovison cameras on WP7?

 

I won't even work when I travel to it on the Internet Explorer

Personally, I load UltraVNC on my Geovision DVR and run a VNC client on my iPhone (Mocha VNC). I have been using this solution for several years for both GeoVision v6 and v8, and even on my old Netrome DVR.

VNC works fine, except it does not do audio. Since UltraVNC runs on any PC as well, for years my security monitor on the kitchen counter was an old laptop running UltraVNC.

Hi,

I've been reading on this forum a lot in the past week and decided to make my first post about my experience.

I'm new to CCTV and decided to install a surveillance system at my house just to be safe and watch for the house while we're away.

While shopping at Costco I have seen a Lorex system installed and decided I want one (I'm kinda geek, I like computers and I do webdesign for living, also photography).

 

After reading reviews I went with Q-See QT526-5 16 channel DVR with 8 QM6006B cameras which are 600 TVL. (I think the DVR is made by TVT)

It says that it does D1 at 30fps on all channels, and looks like it really does what it says. (I only have 8 cameras right now), will add later.

Looks like they don't sell it anymore (but you can find reviews on costco website by searching google), it was on sale for $600 after $300off. Costco mentioned on the website that it comes with 500GB HDD because of the flooding in Taiwan (they usually have 1TB HDD) also they say in description that you can heve 2 HDDs at 2TB each maximum (a SATA cable was included to add another HDD).

I opened the DVR and actually you can add 2 more HDDs to a total of 3. I have some HDDs and will try to add later. Still testing the system.

 

Also Costco had same DVR with 16 cameras for an additional $200 (also on sale).

 

I set it up and everything works, not the best looking software, or very practical, but it works. I have nothing to compare too, but I'm sure the software could be better.

One of the camera had an adjustment screw threads broken. Also I have seen some people mentioning the same thing on a similar q-see system from Costco.

 

Video quality is OK, same thing, nothing to compare too.

Video/power cables look cheap, but they work.

It has 2 power supply with 2 splitters for 4 cameras each. Do you think that a short in one camera cable could damage all 4 cameras ont he same power supply? Or even the DVR? I will invest in a power box with fuses at a later time.

 

The only thing that bothers me the most is the FAN noise. I have it hidden very well in a wall along with a APC 550VA UPS which connects to a GFCI outlet. I tested it for about 20 minutes on the UPS and it was still working with 8 cameras. I plugged it back in to avoid a forced shut down.

 

The fan noise is not the bearing, is the airflow. Small thick fan. I covered all the air vents (for intake) on the DVR with some filter pads with duct tape to avoid dust going inside. Will change those once in a while. I did this because of the location of the DVR, may get dusty.

 

What I'm thinking to do is to cut the top metal cover of the DVR and add a big 120mm fan for quitter operation. Don't want to void the warranty, but I will do it sooner or later. The DVR should be hidden, and it is, but the noise uncovers it. You can hear it when walking 7-10ft from that wall.

 

Using the iphone for live view while on the ladder for proper camera angle adjustment was very helpful.

Iphone app is $2, ipad is $10 (SuperCam pro) I did not buy the ipad version yet. The free app is crap. The paid one will allow to view recorded files and DVR setup as from a local computer.

 

I think that camera/lens angle is around 50-55 degrees. Will need at least 2 more cameras with a wider view.

Looking to buy something for wide view outdoor (front door), but I will have to research this forum for recommendations..

 

Some cameras developed some kind of stains on the inside part of the glass where the IR leds are. (like smoking stains probably from led heat??) All leds work good.

On the first night of installation two of the cameras was showing white lines running on the screen vertically. Those cameras are on the same side of the hosue where the power enters the house also those two are connected on a metal fascia of the house. Probably ground loop, but next day the lines disappeared, also for the next night, will update if will see them again.

 

It was foggy last two nights. Video showed like it was snowing. White dots which triggered the motion recording. Set the sensitivity to 1 and it stopped recording, but that also stopped recording for one of the camera even on driving the car in the area of motion. So I set it to 3 for now, will see tonight if the fog will trigger the recording.

 

I don't know if I could change the lenses on these cameras, would be nice to have a wider angle on 2 of them.

 

That's all for now.

Excuse my English.

Those white vertical lines were spider webs.

Blowing fog will look like snow because the DVR is processing the video with a little lag.

If the unit has an external power supply the fan is mainly to make the hard drives last longer. A larger fan would be quieter, of course. Keep in mind that they size the fan for worst possible scenario...three hard drives installed and when ambient temperature is very high.

One way to quiet it down would be to add a fan speed controller like the type used for PCs. PCs commonly use variable speed fans with temp sensors so they are quieter.

There may be several processors on the main system board that get warm, but the main issue is that a cool-running hard drive will last much longer.

Put it in the loft. and enclose it in a fan assisted steel security enclosure. If someone does happen to enter your loft, and does happen to find it, they won't be able to easily damage it. It will then be out of the way and you can access it via your network, so the only stuff showing will be your home computer. I wouldn't worry about statistics, and all that jazz, if something is going to happen it will and there's little you can do except hope it gets recorded.

 

Nobody on earth (except maybe Rory ) can cover every single aspect of a burglar's activity there is nearly always something they can do to confound your efforts, all you can do is give it your best and hope you aren't outsmarted by the criminals.

 

I am amazed how few installations I see that have a lock box. This one doesn't show a fan but you can easily buy and fit one, this box gets screwed down to the rafters. click the pic

 

Here is the sort of enclosure I am talking about, you can find these easily online Picture courtesy of Securitytec

And don't forget a DUMMY DVR. Go on eBay and buy the cheapest POS DVR you can find for ten bucks. Put a sign on it that says security DVR with cables connected to it. For a laugh, fill the case with a block of solid lead.

Hi guys,…Wonder if anyone can help.one of my sites has 3x Samsung shr-5162 dvr’s the staff access them via a p.c on its own little network…the problem is that when they backup images to cd or p.c the time and date are missing, apparently this is normal when using avi files. I was wondering if there was a way of getting the time and date on to the avi file? I have talked to Samsung tekwins tech support team and they don’t think it’s possible they tell me to use dvr files instead but the police will find it difficult to view dvr files. I know I can’t only through smart viewer2.any ideas?

There's a free app called MediaInfo which can read the Tag info that is in the AVI files, assuming the backup process does not wipe that out. Maybe once you discover it you can add a little text file to go with the footage somehow?

http://www.eden-foundation.org/products/code/film_date_stamp/index.html

I have a new Hunt CCTV DVR (HD1648 in Hunt's HCR-T Series) and have connected it to my ATT 2WIRE router with an ethernet cable, but no connection is made-lights do not come on at either the router or the DVR and all attempts to set up port forwarding, using DHCP to have an IP address assigned, trying to do this as a static IPA, etc. do not work. The ethernet cable is fine (works with a desktop computer) and the DVR does not require a cross-over cable, although I haven't tried one. I sent the DVR back to the mfg. and they plugged it in to their Linksys router and said they had no problem establishing a connection. I worked with their technician over the phone for hours and all attempts to establish an internet connection were futile. They focused on port forwarding, firewall exceptions, etc. but not on the basic recognition by the 2WIRE that it was connected to the DVR. Is there something unusual about connecting a DVR to the ATT-2WIRE?

The Hunt manual has a rather complete section on how to connect to a network [i have 2 desktops with ethernet connections and 2 laptops (all running W7, plus an iPad)] all of which are recognized by my 2Wire modem. The DVR gives you a setup screen where you can have a static or dynamic IP. If one selects DHCP, which supposedly automatically gives the DVR and IP address, subnet mask, Gateway and DNS server, there is no response. It also allows for DDNS. Or these can be manually typed in if you choose static. I know my 2Wire Gateway, subnet mask and DNS values, but manual entering them and then selecting a static IP within my allowed range of IP values still doesn't let me link up. The problem is I cannot get a link established between my DVR and the 2Wire using any of these methods. The final suggestion from the Hunt technician was to replace the 2W with a Linksys router, but then I'd have to bridge my 2W and I have the feeling that's not going to solve anything. I could replace the 2Wire with just an ATT modem and then connect a Linksys router, but this shouldn't be necessary. Anybody with any ideas? Thanks in advance

Vern

First of all, what you describe is a very simple problem, the ethernet card in the DVR won't connect to your uVerse router. If you have tried multiple cables and also multiple ports on your uVerse device, then the problem is this: the uVerse Ethernet port settings need to be adjusted to a different link speed/duplex setting, or you need to plug a little ethernet switch in between the DVR and uVerse device. Without going into all the details, you need to log into the web interface of your uverse RG, and go into Settings > LAN > Wired Interfaces. There you will see four Ethernet ports listed, with a pull down that says 'Auto Detect'. Change port 2 (or where you have your DVR plugged in) to 100BaseTX Full Duplex and Click save.

If that does not work, then buy a simple four port ethernet switch with a short 6" patch cable, and plug that in-between the uVerse RG and your DVR. That will work, period.

I recently purchased an inexpensive poe switch, TPE-S44.

 

Is there a standard output voltage for these devices to power cameras or is there an adjustment to change the voltage?

 

I looked at the manual online but see no reference to adjust to the correct voltage. The manual mentioned the wattage limitations for each port, but no mention of voltage.

 

Thanks,

Bob

The 802.3 af or newer 802.3at POE standards specify a voltage range for the PD (powered device) of 37-57 volts for AF and 42.5 -57 volts for the newer AT standard.

The PD typically has a set resistance value that calls for a set voltage it needs. You don't have to set anything...as long as everything is standards-compliant, it just works, assuming your cabling is correct.

I see a few cams on ebay and such that have blue LEDs, or perhaps IR LEDs that are tinted blue. Any purpose of this? They look... cooler I guess, but there's gotta be a reason for the blue tint. Does that block out the faint red glow you can see at night from the LEDs?

 

I tried googling the purpose of the blue tinted LEDs, but can't find a reason for it.

The newer high-efficiency Gallium Aluminum Arsenide (Ga1A) IR LEDs are tinted blue. The blue tinting is to shift the color and tinting also widens the viewing angle a bit.

950 nm IR LEDs are invisible to the human eye, while 850 nm is that red glow you sometimes see.

GA1A falls around 880-900nm, which is only faintly visible red for most people. Without the tint they would look a bit more red.

Some naughty SCROTE... Has taken a liking to my car.

 

I live on the 2nd floor in a flat, Fitting outside camera's is not really an option.

It/they would be a target, It is not a nice area.

 

I did have the idea of fitting them in the loft which i have access to, But access to the

soffits from above is virtually nil.

 

I have bought a couple of old B/W camera's approx 2.5 inches square and 6 inches long,

Pointed them out the window at night and they seem to be ideal. Decent quality picture

and niced and bright without needing LED's.

 

So the loft/soffit board is on the back burner, So i am thinking i need to have them in a window.

But howto hide them so they are not visible from outside?

 

Car is parked below my windows with only a patch of grass between it and the building.

 

Wall opposite which the scrotes climb on top of.

 

UK based if that makes any difference? Also the property is rented so i cannot go around

drilling holes everywhere.

 

 

Thank you in advance.

I can think of a dozen ways to make a camera in a window hidden in plain sight. For starters, just a miniblind may be sufficient. Keep in mind that for somebody to see the camera, they need to be looking for it, and the lighting has to be enough so they can see it.

Of course some sort of window tint film, though it may look ugly, would make the camera invisible. You could get a decorative fake hanging potted plant with a dark colored pot, and mount the camera inside.

hello everybody

 

when i access the cctv in my office remotely at first it takes about 4 min to load ( either am using the browser or the CMS ), and second its very very VERY slow, am using ddns ( dyndns.com ) service to access the cctv remotely, do i need to upgrade my internet connection in office which is 1 MB, or i need to upgrade my dyndns account which will cost me 30$ monthly ?

 

any suggestions please

 

thanx in advance.

Most likely DNS is not the issue. You can rule that out by accessing your site via it's current IP address. Four minutes is too slow for a line rated at 1MBs. I would question whether perhaps something is misconfigured or malfunctioning before spending money for more bandwidth. The first question would be how fast is the office internet connection there for those surfing the web and so forth? It would be best to run a connection test from the office to make sure you are getting the bandwidth you are paying for.

I need help deciding what system to get. My first question is there a big difference in the Qvis Zues vs. Qvis Apollo? If I get one of those DVR I will probably get the CNB VCM-24VF camera is the a good choice? Or should I just go with the Samsung SME-2220 since it comes with 4 cameras, DVR, HD, and monitor? This would be my first system and it would be used outside. Any insight yall can give me would be very helpful. Thanks

Couple of words of advice:

First of all, I would not consider an all-in-one DVR built into the LCD display. My thought is when one of the two parts breaks, you're stuck until you fix it. Buy a separate DVR.

In terms of DVR specs, a lot depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The HUGE difference in terms of usability, is how well remote viewing and remote playback works. Some DVRs, for example, only allow you to use Internet Explorer (ActiveX controls) and have mobile-phone clients that simply do not work. (Hint: read reviews on Amazon dot com)

Note that the two options you talked about for cameras are totally different....the CNB is a color fixed dome, and the Samsung is a bullet night-vision camera.....totally different.

Remember, that dome has no infrared LEDs, so at night you will see nothing at all. Domes are great for places that are lit all the time, but can be tricky outdoors since things like the direct sun of sunrise/sunset will 'blowout' the video due to glare and direct light.

For most low-cost residential installs, what you want is a good-quality color CCD bullet camera...one with infrared night-vision capability, a sun-shade, and a metal (not plastic) housing.

I am looking at Zoneminder because I have been using Ubuntu for years on all my PCs and I'm used to cutting and pasting code in a terminal.

 

An important point is that ZoneMinder, in theory, is easy to use, but unless you're really comfortable with computers, and Unix specifically, it's not as easy as it looks.

 

I have worked with lots of PC-based systems, and sometimes they work well, and other times not-so-much. Making any old PC into a stable and reliable DVR can be hit-or-miss.

 

Personally, I would suggest getting a pro-grade DVR used on eBay...that's what I do. There are also tons of dirt-cheap Linux-based chinese DVRs from Q-See, Gadspot, Swann and many others. These units are not perfect, but they tend to be fairly reliable and you can set it up in like five minutes.

 

In terms of PC-based DVRs, I looked at ZoneMinder (never tried it) but have spent TONs of time supporting GeoVision and Netrome stuff. IF done right, PC-based stuff is great, if NOT done right, then it can be a great character-building and learning exercise.

While not familiar with that hardware, I know networks well.

I assume you can ping other things from your test machine? Can other things ping your test machine?

Many embedded devices need to be hard powered-down to clear the cached network info and also clear the ethernet switch mac address table. What's between the two devices, hub, switch, crossover cable? Assuming default gateway and subnet mask are correct.

This is a fairly complex issue, but for starters:

What make/model of DVR are you accessing?

What method do you use to view it (e.g. web browser, application, remote control)

What ports are used to view the video and control it (these are the ports open on the firewall).

What sort of ping times do you get to/from the site from each country?

What type of error are you getting?

Do other applications or services run?

If you can hit your dvr remotely through the software, you've port forwarded correctly. Leave well enough alone. The activex thing could be a number of settings holding it up on that pc. Try another pc and see if you have the same problem. Load the software on a different pc and confirm it works remotely as well. I'd be surprised if you prefer the activex over the software anyway, so if all is well with the software I wouldn't stress over activex. You could also try another browser like firefox, which would need one add on to make it work, or chrome- just to see if you can get activex going in those browsers.

 

This is what's so strange. I have tried it on both my desk top and lap top with the same results. and stranger still, I cant access my user control panel on my laptop, only the desk top. I use Firefox as my main browser but, the DVR instructions say this software only works with IE as it is. there is a way to use it with FF or Chrome but the instructions are in translated Chinese and don't make any sense. I'm not sure what you mean by not using activex, isn't that the only way I can accsess my cameras when I'm away from home, like say at work?

I called Verizon support and they would be happy to help me with a 30min tech call for a one time fee of $40 or a monthly fee of $10 for a minimum of 10 months.

Gee, how's that for service?! I'm thinking I'm going to start looking for a good deal on another modem that isn't so screwed up it takes a 4 year degree to figure it out.

anyway, I do appreciate your help. Not a lot of guys would take the time.

Thank you,

John

If the DVR says it uses ActiveX, it cannot be used with anything except IE, period.

ActiveX is a browser add-in technology that is exclusive, proprietary, and all Microsoft (and it sucks). I have been working with PCs for more than 20 years and have configured dozens of DVRs to work with ActiveX and it's not pretty.

The way I make this work (seriously) is to have a VMware ESX server at home, and I have an instance of Windows XP running as a guest OS, with an instance of IE 6 running on that PC. That virtual OS runs the ActiveX control required by my Everfocus DVR. I connect remotely to that virtual PC via the UltraVNC app on the PC and via the MochaVNC app on my iPhone.

Any PC, whether it's local or remote (like at work) would need to have those same ActiveX controls installed in IE, and also every single one of the security settings configured in IE (which basically turn off all security in the web browser so the ActiveX control can work).

^ that will not work with u verse. that modulator, like most is designed for use with standard CATV

 

Hi please make more sense it is commonly for equip in appartment to view the status via your TV. A lot of rich and verteran is proficient this products.

Yes, there are devices that can coexist with CATV.

UVerse is not CATV, it's IPTV.

Most commonly the STBs are connected via Ethernet, but since 90% of the uVerse customers probably already have a coax cable running to their TV, using HPNA over coax saves the uVerse installer from having to pull a new Ethernet cable for each STB.

Hi guys, i am seeking some advise if possible. I have installed a 16ch DVR system. I have a monitor connected locally to the DVR but the site has a TV about 150m away. I have run a CAT5 cable and connected Baluns at each end. The problem im having is that the image on the TV is not stable. It flickers on and off and the picture quality is very very poor. On the TV side using a Balun i tried connected via bnc to scart, bnc to phono and cat5 to vga. All with the same results.

 

I tried using 1 pair, 2 pair, 3 pair and 4 pair same result.

 

I have tried replacing the baluns, same result.

 

on the dvr side, if i plug 1 camera directly in the balun i get the 1 camera image on the TV. which indicates that the cable is fine. If i use a T BNC connector to split 1 camera feed i get the same problem as when connected to the video out for the DVR.

 

So it seems when going via the DVR the picture gets distort. I am pulling my hair out now and i cant think what else it could be.

 

Guys any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanking you in advance

My experience with LAN cabling tells me that CAT5 and a Balun simply will not work at that distance. There are some amplified video-senders like the Lynx Bobcat that can send composite upto 600 feet over cat5. www.lynxbroadband.com

That will reset all DVR settings? or just the administrator password?

I am not familiar with your system but typically the admin password is stored in the OS of the unit. Resetting the BIOS of the DVR will typically not affect the OS. I know how to reset passwords on many systems, but these DVRs are tricky because they are very 'closed' systems.

These run Linux, typically, and some units may have a boot-process that can be interrupted, which can cause it to crash to a system prompt visible from an attached serial terminal. This is how mods are made to things like CATV boxes or Tivo that run embedded Linux.

Often, too, passwords are embedded in system firmware updates, viewable with a hex editor.

Note that many security DVRs use only digits 1-9 as part of their password, so that the front panel or remote can be used. That limits the number of possible passwords considerably.

Not sure this helps, but this is how it works.

Not being a troll here, but personally I have a love-hate relationship with PC-based DVRs. I know PCs...I have been working with PCs for 20+ years. I have setup tons of GeoVision stuff. But I have been burned many times by having things bork when they should be recording, or spending 20 hours troubleshooting why the PC goes blue-screen ten minutes after I look away.

Call me crazy, but hardware is cheap and 'almost' recording a crime does not cut it. To get the best of both worlds, get a pro-grade DVR with loop-through inputs to front-end the PC-based DVR. That's what I have at home. A 16 channel Everfocus that feeds each channel thru to my Geovision. Geovision works fairly well, but in terms of reliability, it can be hit or miss. Just my opinion.....

I personally have setup wireless LANs for many years in enterprise warehouse and point-to-point solutions such as when there are remote buildings, on-site trailers, and even a link crossing a busy street.

Wireless can work fine for many things, but to be honest, I've never seen a wireless camera that's anything more than a toy. In a demanding environment, and a race track would be just that, I have not seen a commercial-grade product that would work.

Now in terms of using wireless to send video, there are solutions, similar to the solutions used to extend a data network, but be forewarned, these can get costly. http://www.cocom.com/index.htm

When it comes to long distance, it's all about cost. Wireless can have it's place, but also consider either buried or aerial fiber, and there are even solutions where the CCTV camera is using a cellular 3G connection. www.ironsky.com

As a general rule, firmware updates always check to see what they are updating, therefore in 99% of the cases, a firmware update that's 'close', will not work, nor will it make things worse.

Note too, that one of two things will happen: either it will error-out with something like 'no compatible hardware found' or, if I am totally wrong, it will work 100% perfectly.

Sorry, you can't get there from here. Uverse uses the coax in an unusual way; they are running HPNA, which is basically Ethernet over coax from the RG (residential gateway) to the set top box (STB).

While HPNA will coexist with analog or digital broadcast (RF) TV signals, I am 99.9% sure that a standard 1 Volt CCTV video signal on the same coax would, at best, kill the uVerse connection, and at worst, kill the uVerse STB and/or RG.

In most places you need your low-voltage contractor license to run cables...not sure about PA.

Look into using fiber optics. With the type of distances you're talking about, I would think it would be much less problematic, and might even be cheaper. You can run 8 video and two audio channels over one single mode fiber. There's a company called Aventura, for example, that makes video-fiber multiplexors. If you upgrade to IP cameras, you can use the same fiber. With fiber you could go more than two miles with zero loss, zero interference.

While you'd probably spend $40K on fiber muxes, 500 feet of six-strand fiber costs like $150 and is less than 3/8" diameter.

I'm not a fiber-salesman, but I've been working with computer networks for +20 years. Using fiber means an outdoor camera could take a direct lightning strike and not hurt your DVR.

I would look at what fiber is already being run for the building LAN. It's not hard to run some extra fiber strands for video...they might even have unused cable in place.

Typically the web server of a DVR uses port 80 to download browser plug-ins. What make/model DVR? Sometimes a DVR-maker will have a demo-page on the web site, and your web browser will download/install pkug ins that way.