the toss

ditto ditto

You dont still have the protective clear film on the lens do you ? Happens a lot.

There are battery powered ,IR motion activated cameras that are used for wildlife monitoring which seem to fullfill all your requirements. The main problem is that the camera is likely to get stolen as well.

what style of camera , dome , bullet or full body ???

You can use that with no problems. It is a bit like wanting to drink 1 pint of water but the bottle you have contains 6 pints of water. You just take what you need

Even the cheapest scabbiest camera will give a passable picture in daylight. Its no light & low light that really sort them out. The "snowy" effect your getting is noise due to the AGC (automatic gain control) winding itself up trying to get an image in adverse light conditions.

Buy for $60 ------- Sell for $300

I'm in the wrong part of the industry

First you need to determine if the cameras are working. If they have been thrown out they are either dead or they are old standard resolution analogue cameras. Determine the voltage requirement (should be marked). It will either be 12Vdc or 24Vac. Get a cable to plug it into your video I/P on your TV , switch the TV source to A/V, apply the required power and you should get picture

Besides the obvious issues with entry level cameras your main issue here is the white light source in the capture area. You want the illumination but NOT the light source in the picture.

I made the same mistake on my first ethernet cable as well. Being an old analogue man I mistakenly thought that as long as each end of each cable was terminated in the same position then all would be well. Point to point - how simple can it be. WRONG . That is ok for DC which is why your IR was working but its not ok for the signal wires. Its a complex topic which I dont fully understand. To do with slew rates & velocity factors and other black magic stuff.

get onto the Austech forum & you will find plenty

If you're using a power supply for multiple cams, get rid of it and get a power supply for each. They're cheap enough. A cam with a long power supply wire run will wreak havoc on other cams and burn out led boards and even cameras.

 

 

how about elaborating on these claims

 

 

Firstly, because I ran into that problem. Secondly, I've been an Industrial electronics technician for the last 38 years. An extremely long voltage run has a higher resistance. It requires more current. If the IR cut shuts off on that cam, it causes a surge and will take out led's, cut filter coils, etc on the other cameras. Matter of fact, I put a power supply big enough to power 4 cams 2 weeks ago. It wasn't long before it burned out 2 ir cut coils and 2 led boards on the cams that were closest to the power supply. Then it dawned on me what was happening. I put a separate power supply on each cam and the problem is now gone.

Without getting into a p!ssing contest about qualifications , I have a few issues with what you have said. I'll take them point by point.

* " an extremely long voltage run has a higher resistance" and hence a higher voltage drop over the length of the cable. This results in under voltage at the load (camera). This will not (in itself) cause any damage to the camera or leds.

* " it requires more current " There are only two ways to increase current to the load (camera). You can either decrease the load seen by the power supply or you can increase the voltage presented to the load. Power supply current is not something you simply turn up or down.

* " it causes a surge ". What are we talking about here? A momentary increase in current caused by a sudden decrease in load which will in turn cause a increase in voltage drop over the length of the power feed.

The problems you describe would only ever present themselves if you used a SINGLE power feed supplying all cameras in a daisy-chain configuration AND used an UNREGULATED power supply. This is something that I would hope no industrial electronics technician would ever comtemplate doing.

If you're using a power supply for multiple cams, get rid of it and get a power supply for each. They're cheap enough. A cam with a long power supply wire run will wreak havoc on other cams and burn out led boards and even cameras.

how about elaborating on these claims

cant see the pic you posted so a verbal description of what you found would be appreciated. BUT - I dont know why you persisted with the screw on BNC

This is the problem with wireless. You can either pay big $$$ and have gear that operates on the licenced part of the spectrum OR use stuff that operates on the public access part of the spectrum the same as EVERY other public access wireless device known to mankind - a tough ask for reliability

RG59

Ok Jerome & Tom -after a bit of homework you have me convinced. With no US address insurance is going to be the main problem. I like the idea of trying for a vehicle retrieval trip. I'm guessing that most route 66 trips are the traditional direction of east to west so I might try car rentals in Cal to see about this.

next - what's the go with tipping ??

So if we were to stick with the buying a car plan do you think it may be better to go west to east and buy a pollution compliant car in California ?

@ dont think the cops here would be happy about me practising driving on the wrong side of the road.

Hello All,

 

I continue this thread (1) because it is Sunday and I have nothing

else better to do and (2) I will consider this educational. Maybe the

dissertation will help someone in the future.

 

As the original poster on this challenge I was hoping for a quick solution.

With about 60 views in about 4 days since I posted the question

this seems to NOT have a easy solution. Or maybe the right person

has not logged in as of yet. So I will list again what has NOT worked to

isolate the problem.

 

I will post again the picture. If it does not show then right click

and open the image in another tab.

 

 

The camera is powered by a 12VDC wall wart on Siamese Cable

The enclosure has a heater/blower that is powered by another

source and I suspect it it 24VAC. All is in separate conduits

up to the enclosure. The video is on CVBS video format. The

bigger challenge is that the camera is about 24 feet up on a

outside wall and only accessible by extension ladder. The cable

is inside a 3/4" rigid conduit from camera to monitor.

 

>> When I disconnect camera power the video picture goes away

however the distortion remains on the screen intermittently.

this would indicate the distortion does not originate from the camera>> When I switch to the CVBS2 input to the monitor nothing changes.

 

>> When I disconnect the BNC at the monitor and replace with a new

camera the video is clear and good.

this would indicate the distortion is generated by the cable /connectors or camera. Since the test above has discounted the camera then we are left with the cable/connectors as the source of the problem

>> When I check video from the existing camera on my test monitor

there is NO video.

since your monitor is showing distorted video this would indicate your test monitor is faulty>> When I install a new camera at enclosure on existing coax NO video

is received at the monitor. Uses existing power.

this would again point to your cable/connectors being the problem>>

When I disconnect the 24VAC power at the enclosure to disable the

heater/blower the distorted video does not change. (Did this late Friday)

this shows your heater/blower is not the source of your problem

The oldest part of this install is the Siamese RG59 cable. Maybe 15 Years old

The plan is replace the cable with new and see what changes if anything.

 

Personally I am baffled as to what is causing the problem. I would

like to remove the camera and connect to my test monitor but this

camera is a critical part of the operation. I tried to swap it out

but with no video to the monitor I had to revert back to the original

and work on a different plan. I really want to know what I am fighting here.

Nothing I do points it a specific direction.

 

Sorry this got to be a long read.

 

At this point I don't expect a reader to jump in with a "Ahh Haa Moment"

that will break the open what I am missing.

 

If the new cable fixes or not I will post that information. Should happen

later this coming week.

 

Thanks for reading.

 

Les

I'm beginning to think you may have more than one problem here since you have conflicting test results , but generally it looks like being your cable/connectors. Coax will not degrade with age unless it is damaged somehow so start with replacing your BNC connectors and see how you go

Myself , my son & a friend are looking at doing the Route 66 drive about this time next year. I am looking for someone who lives in the Chicago area to liase with and maybe help out with information etc. The idea is to purchase a cheap car at the east end & dispose of at the west side. Info on the purchase and selling of vehicles in the states as well as anything else that may be relevant would be handy. Hoping someone can help out.

thanks in advance - The Toss

Is it a progressive scan monitor or an interlace monitor ? Looks a lot like it could be the scan retrace which would indicate a bad monitor.

" wired is not an option" ?????? What do you think POE is ?

PVC for sure. Weather is not your only problem - insects & birds can develop a taste for the insulation. Another advantage is that the cabling can be disguised to an extent so that its purpose is unknown.

I often have the same problem on a fully equiped machine and I dont have fat fingers. The method I use is to fit the BNC loosly onto the socket. While holding a finger on ONE side of it , use a small flat bladed screwdriver on the knurled part of the plug to push it on and turn.

@Tom - never seen or heard of those bnc tools, will have to investigate.

Tom - it seems like your pushing sh!t uphill with these people. If the people who post for advice dont listen then they deserve all the sh!t they get.