the toss

NEC - national electric code would require the cameras to be supported by the drop tile grid. reasoning is that the tiles could collapse if the tile gets wet or there is a fire which would allow the camera to fall from the ceiling and hit someone.

Maybe the tiles needs to be waterproof , fireproof & each have a safety chain attached.

That seems like an overkill.

 

I forgot to add that according to the specsheet, the camera only weighs 400g.

 

 

other way is off cut plastic conduit cut to tile size with long drywall screws

I always have offcuts of PVC ducting lying around. I simply cut up the cover strip into about 3" lengths & screw into these on the back of the tiles. It helps to use course threaded screws

You will find BNCs even easier to learn, but remember before crimping the center pin make sure it is properly seated to the dialectric (polythene inner).Don't forget to put the relief boot and ferrule on before trimming the cable ( we have all done that at least once I think? ).

THE most important part of BNC terminating is ensuring you get the centre pin to "lock" in when you insert it in the outer body. Most people think that the crimping of the ferrule is what holds the whole thing together but they are only half right.

This is the most common problem I come across & I refer to it as the Mathew Technique after the installer who spent 15 years of doing it wrong. You would wonder why he didn't bother to find out why most of his coaxes, complete with pin, would pull out of the BNC with just a little tug.

Hey I was given some old tube analog cameras from an old buddy. They do not have any lenses.

 

Can I use my granmother's glasses and take the lens out and use them on the cameras?

 

My grandmother had stymatism. Will that effect the view?

 

Should I use those glasses, or should I find an old pair that has transiton lenses?

Will the transition lenses help when the sun shines in to the cameras?

 

I found some old teletype wire (it is really old) and can I use this to connect the cameras to my VCR?

 

How do I get the 4 cameras to connect to the VCR at the same time?

 

I can modulate one camera and connect it to the coax input, and I can take another camera and connect it to the composite video input. I was thinking about getting an IR blaster and a 555 timer IC and creating some kind of circuit that will switch the VCR from coax input to composite input and back to the coax and to keep repeating that command. Now the VCR can record two cameras.

 

Can I use a washing machine relay to connect two cameras in the composite input? The relay can toggle back and forth between the two cameras and then send the video to the VCR! Now I can record three cameras! Now to figure how to connect two cameras to a modulator!

 

The cameras do not have any mounts so I was just going to duct tape them to the house.

Is there such a thing as water proof duct tape? I would really hate to have the cameras fall off after a rain storm! I have some of those old fashion hangers. You know the kind. They are made out of some kind of metal. They are not cool like the new plastic hangers. I could use the wire hangers to hang the cameras from the soffits.

 

The cameras have a hole for a screw. Could I use a dry wall screw and wrap the wire from the hanger around the drywall screw and then insert the screw in to the hole? If the hole does not hold the drywall screw then I might try some JB Weld to hold it.

 

Sounds like a pretty cool system! Now I can protect my prized Odyssey pong video game system, and my TRS 80 computer from being stolen from my basement apartment. No. I do not live with my parents. I let them move in with me, but I charge them rent therefore it was only fair to let them have the main floor.

 

Them moving in worked out real good. My wireless picks up their internet. It is nice to have an internet that is a strong signal. Trying to use my neighbors internet sucked as I only had one bar, and it took forever to download anything.

 

What advise do you guy have? I really appreciate your PROFESSIONAL opion! No. Not really. I am going to set this stuff up just the way I want regardless how much you bastards hen peck me in to spending money for a system when this cool stuff will do the trick!

 

Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't use lens's out of glasses unless you have two cameras spaced the same as your grandmothers ears. Flux capacitors will solve your wireless internet problems.

Thank you for the clarification about the speco cameras, I didnt want to be rude and correct toss about his lack luster reply. especially since this is my first post. the cameras are all set the same. It has a push button switch that brings up a menu. We have made a few small changes but we can not see if it really effects the camera until night. Are you thinking it might be a setting or could I be running into an electrical problem?

My mistake . but my comments still stand ( just not with regards to your problem )

As suggested I would be looking at your gain/agc settings & the dnr setting. to a great extent these work against each other. As you increase you gain you will also increase noise level & at the extreme the noise may be so great that the dnr has little effect. It looks to me that the camera is simply trying to operate beyond its capabilities. As suggested try adjusting the colour/B&W threshold & get it to go to b/w earlier.

95% coverage refers to the coverage of the shielding (braid) around the inner conductor. You would only get 100% if it was a solid copper shield (a bit like a copper pipe). There are many cables that have a very thin & light braiding that would only be at a guess 50%

You have just discovered the difference between cheap IR cameras & quality IR cameras. You can either live with it , upgrade the cameras or get some lighting in there

TV antenna cable is still 75^ and is most commonly RG59 for analogue or RG6 for digital. The RG58 is (as you say) 50^ and is most commonly used for radio transmitter antenna feed.

The small screens are just too hard to get a good focus adjustment on & can be near impossible to see if you are outside in the sun. At least that is the case with my eyes.

The axis are referring to the mechanical mount of the camera so the zoom in /out has nothing to do with it. You are correct with your understanding of 2-axis & these are usually all that is required for ceiling mount cameras. However if you mounted a dome camera on a vertical wall you would get up/down & left/right adjustment. If you wanted to adjust the camera view down AND to the left you would not be able to do it without turning the camera off the vertical line. The 3rd axis is a rotational axis of the camera to enable you to bring the picture back to a vertical display orientation.

Video baluns are BALanced to UNbalanced impedance matching transformers. They are used to match the 75^ characteristic impedance of video camera O/Ps to transmission lines of various impedances ( usually 120^ cat 5/6 ) If your cameras are already running on 75^ coax and you have video quality issues then using a balun will be of no help & will actually degrade the video further.

That was the only way i could think of too,,,however its quite a run, under a load of concrete and not sure it will be that easy, then if i loose the cable half way im completely screwed!

 

 

 

in that case biwave is what you need ...... we carrie a few and have used lots with no problem.

 

2 video / power / data and audio. everything comes with power supply just order 12 or 24v which ever supports your camera.

 

and there not that expensive.

 

 

I have used these on a number of occassions with good results. Cost $370 for the set in Aust. When compared to the cost of labour , cable & cherrypicker to run another cable it is the best solution.

 

controlers. Most seem to be 3 axis and I do not understand that but I found one controler that stated 4 axis.

 

All help understanding will be greatly appreciated

 

gene

3 axis covers vertical , horizontal & rotational adjustment. Maybe the fourth axis covers the time domain so it can be used in the Tardis or the D'lorean for time travel

It will depend on the design of the 12V power supply. If it is in fact just a single supply with multiple O/Ps then when you connect the +ve to -ve to series them you will actually be shorting the O/P

There sure is. The good stuff is RG59u or RG59m & has a 0.9mm pure copper centre conductor with a 95% pure copper braiding. You may get acceptable results with the cheaper stuff & only you can determine if you are willing to take the chance.

Unless the cable enters through the base of the camera mounting & hence straight through a wall

My father has a surveillance system at his property and wants to add a red flashing strobe or beacon light inside his house to warn him when people are coming. The area he wants to add a motion detector is approx 900' away from the house. There is power there and a cat6 cable there going all the way to the house that can be used to transmit a signal. I cant find anything but a red beacon light that will plug into 120vac. Is there a special power supply that will turn on by a signal for 1 minute? Thank you for any help. I am traveling up there in 2 weeks so need to order something soon.

I wouldn't be running it in 120V. There are lots of 12v strobes in different colours available for security systems , forklifts etc . Most PIRs use a form B relay contact ( normally closed) & will have to be changed to normally open with a relay. OR find a PIR with a form C contact which will have both normally open & normally closed contacts. These are usually on the better quality ones which you will need if it is going to be installed outdoors.

Gotta be careful going the other way, too - working out in the heat, you definitely have to take precautions.

Yep - I know that very well living in FL. We don't need to deal with the cold weather, but it's 85F+ for most of the year. When working outside, wearing a light cap with a sunsheild (similar to a foreign legion hat) or wearing a wet towel over your head/under your cap, sunglasses, sunscreen and keeping well hydrated are important.

85*F is only 30*c. That is just a pleasant summers day here. It regularly gets to 38*c (100*F) & like you say, sun protection & lots of fluids will see you right

Although I live in a fairly temperate location where winter temperatures seldom get below 10*C. for the last week it has been downt to 4 *C during the day with a bitterly cold wind chill factor. It got me wondering how those people in the colder climates manage with their day to day installations. I know that you can "dress up" to suit the conditions but it seems to me that would be like trying to do brain surgery dressed in a ski suit. On the other hand during summer it can get to 60*C + inside a roof cavity but that is really no different to going to a sauna & as long as you keep the fluids up there is usually no problems. I really can't imagine what it would be like to be up ladders running cable in sub zero temperatures. I'm sure I would hate it.

I have a client that doesn't want wires run everywhere and their attic is split by a tall ceiling anyway.

Are there any wireless systems that work ok? Or should I just try and run the wires if I want a reliable system?

Not for the money that he would want to pay

It's not something I would do but if it is impervious to water & unaffected by UV there's no reason I can see not to do it. Normal cat5e cable is neither UV resistant nor waterproof.

Long distance IR is a myth , at least with the equiment available to you & I.

transfers a digital input video signal to a VGA (analog) output, .

He needs to start with knowing what he's talking about

Why are those stripes only on your hand ? I'd go see a doctor.

Go for it. Generally weddings become more about showing off as to how much it cost when the money could be better spent when starting a life together. When I got married at 40 I didn't need to cut on costs but we opted for a more informal reception. Hired an ex-ferry that was set up for catering & spent 5 hours cruising on the local lake with 70 family & friends. Total cost including catering $4000. Disadvantages - limited hot food , limited alcohol.

Advantages - set timeframe , limited alcohol

It remains the "best wedding I,ve been to" among my friends.