rory

Not sure, but using the ATI X1550 chipset now, specifically the Sapphire Radeon X1550 as its inexpensive and works good. I was using the ATI X1300 but it was not that great, and the X1550 Sapphire version is actually better and half the price. Definitely use DVI if you want better quality, however slight it is, every little bit counts (for live video anyway).

I recently had a studdering with a GV250 and 2 cameras and 8.12, while in the past it didnt have that on earlier versions. Im not 100% sure it is the software or card yet but I have a GV1480 on order, as it was only being used to test the PC. When the 1480 comes we will know for certain. I just ordered a Gv650, hope that does not do the same as the 250 and 600 .. if it does then I will have to go back to an older version. Rory

Cornhead did we talk before? Did they try changing the ports on the DVR, from the default ones? Can they take it off the firewall for a test, put it direct into the Cable/DSL modem? Rory

Hi, what version Geo software is it? Rory

i have a feeling it has to do with the newer versions like 8.12.

also see if you can get your hands on an old multiplexer and Time lapse VCR and work with that for a while .. something like the GE / Kalatel, ATV, etc. and a CCTV CRT monitor, If you havent already that is. Gives a good idea on how things work (or use to), and really lets one know how limited it use to be. But also lets one that might only have experience with PC based know the differences and in some cases higher quality live video from the analogue systems (not compared to megapixel though).

Dont know. But if you want to learn more indepth, then look at things like Cameras and Networking. Cameras meaning look at photography and that will give you a deeper look at how cameras work beyond the average CCTV knowledge. And Networking mainly for the IP based solutions as well as the Networked DVRs.

You said you paid for 2 Static IPs from the ISP? If thats the case they assign those 2 IPs to the 1 single Cable modem. You then get a basic hub, 1 cable goes from the Cable modem to the hub. The other 2 computers/DVRs connect to that hub also. Now both Computers/DVRs are online. I know it works for outgoing, though Ive never used it for incoming. But, should work also, as the remote user sends a request to the ISP using that IP, the ISP takes that then sends it to that Cable modem, it should just go right through it to whichever computer/DVR has that IP set up in its networking. .. should. The reason we use Routers is to get away from paying for multiple IPs, basically.

strange, I never heard of the 946GZ Express Chipset until now Try a video card if you have one.

Their Cameras and DVRs are made by different OEM manufacturers in Asia, so they will all be different. I used one DVR from them a couple years back and posted a review on the forum. Other OEMs also sell the same DVRs.

You wont see the video, at least my experiences with Geo. You would need to disable Direct Draw Overlay in the DVR software then you would see the live video. Ofcourse you wont want to leave it like that though. Also, make sure to get Ultra VNC, much better than just the plain VNC.

Yeah i mean using a Hub, not a router, any old cheap hub, the hubs didnt allow for any IP to be set. So if you paid for 3 IPs for that Internet Account, 3 PCs or DVRs connected to that hub would be able to use a static Ip each. Did this before routers came around, cant remember if we ever actually connected to the PC or if I had a DVR at the time, but each were online without problems. Guess it depends on the ISP also.

RG59 Coax w/ 18AWG (Siamese Cable), Coax is solid copper center and copper outer braid.

Cool, just a note, with the 2 Static IPs from the ISP, you could just use a hub (maybe a switch too but its been years since I did this and a hub was what we used back then) and then it will go straight through to the appropriate PC/DVR, no port forwarding needed.

Going by the major brand name box cameras, they have something called S-AGC. That is mostly what I am talking about, S-AGC ON, S-AGC Off If the camera cannot perform without AGC on, then I dont want to use it. The sunlight here during the day is enough to blind you. So basically going back to Photo's original question, I personally rate the cameras without AGC manually turned on (S-AGC or otherwise). I do adjust the lens accordingly also, but thats another thing. Anyway, the brightness in the image outdoors increases when AGC is turned on with all the cameras I have used, well lit scene or not, doesnt matter how the lens is adjusted, same always. Been a while now though since I used box cameras so things may have changed especially with the OSD in most cameras now, along with other features and new technology. Unfortunately some of the new Korean cameras require their form of AGC to be turned on for their Sens up or Night mode to work, but I dont use those cameras though. Box cameras I used were GE and Sanyo. I've also tested a couple others but never actually used them in the field.

Yep. Image is too bright when the sun is out, this is the same with all brands and cameras I used.

Remote Viewlog is typically for connecting to the DVR and playing the recorded video from it. You can however open local files as well and play them, or save them (convert to standard AVI). The raw event files are AVIs but they require the Geo Codecs, so you either need the codecs installed to view them, or play and or convert them using Remote Viewlog, the DVR itself, or even Remote Playback. Also see the free software link on this forum for a couple of my 3rd party methods. If the AVIs are able to play, you still should convert them before viewing in another Media Player, otherwise they will play fast; or like mentioned use one of my 3rd party methods. As for FTP, you will need to download them manually or using an FTP program before playing them.

Ok, you can then use Remote View Log for playback. For Remote Live Video, using the Geo included apps, there is the browser based, just using the WebCam server, which is also on the server menu, then there is the TCP Remote View which is the TCP server in that menu, and there is Center V2 which also allows multisite monitoring and recording remotely. There are others as well, but they are not included.

What version software is on the DVR?

Has to be the same exact chip, for example, there are variations of Exview chips that run from cheap to expensive. Even so, I would still not say they would perform the same. Take 2 Computers for example, same Intel Chipset, Both with Core 2 Duos. The one with the cheaper Core 2 duo is definitely going to be slower. Ofcourse one can tweak Windows like mad to make it perform close to if not better than the faster more expensive one running with default Windows, but still not the same thing, as that same faster one could also be tweaked and then it too would be even faster. Features play a big part, but unless the hardware is up to spec to begin with, then its not really a fair comparison. Also, I never leave a camera with AGC enabled, as it is fine for nighttime, but daytime is useless, at least down here. Personally when I test a camera I always test it with AGC disabled, as thats how it will be in the field. As to BLC, I agree, I was just putting that out there for the OP so he would at least realize that when he leaves that enabled, when there is light, typically it will be a brighter (glare) image. I always leave that disabled. PS. good post btw, and welcome to the forum

many old Box and Zoom cams let you set the exposure manually, mainly the OSD versions. Did that on a Zoom camera a few years back to test .. saw more, but slow. When you add that already slow camera to a DVR without real time, it gets even slower.

Probably bad wire, or a terminating issue with the camera and whatever monitor you are viewing it on. Wire typically used for CCTV is RG59 Coax Copper Solid Center and Copper Braid.

Not sure I understand ... You still have to run 12 or 24 volts, the camera still needs its power The Plugins are nice for plug and play, but are found typically on cheaper cameras, the Pro cameras dont use them in most cases, as there are flaws with having that extra split in the cable. In fact I normally would just cut the connector end off and join it directly to the 18AWG cable, or join the 2 raw wires using a terminal connector such as shown in that image.

Manufacturers will post all kinds of different specs, it can change from one to the next and one product to the next. The Lux level will simply be their rated lowest level the camera can achieve using the specified lens F Stop. It should say whether that is with AGC or not, but that depends on the manufacturer, they are all different. So in your example, it claims 0.3 lux with an F:1.2 F Stop, however your lens is F:0.95 so it will go much lower than 0.3 lux, or at least it should, depends on the camera though, or moreso the chip. Ofcourse typically you can ignore the lux level specs anyway, as like Colin said it is typically BS. I wont even discuss SensUp, as thats just a digital Gimic. Im guessing its a Samsung or another S Korean brand? What camera is this? That can tell alot. PS. BLC on also makes the image slightly brighter requires power off and on typically