rory

make it 12VDC if you can, though should be okay either way, depends on waht system you are using for the twisted pair reciever, NVT, or something like that with interference rejection, ground loop isolation, etc? As fotr cat5 or cat5e, ill wait for one of the others to answer that

Yep, I stopped buying in Miami myself, I get everything from up north, the service and selection is just better. But if you must, PM me and I can point you in a direction, and no, its definately not Silmar!

-Upgrade to SP2 if you havent already -Switch the port from 80, to 81 or 82, for the DVR for remote view -Enable Windows Firewall and add the DVR ports and Remote Viewer Program to it -If you have an extra firewall or are using Nortons with Internet Worm Blocking (not needed if using TCP Port Filtering) add 1 rule to block all ports, then add a Permit rule above that for each Port the DVR Remote viewer uses - essentially also blocking ports. -Use TCP Port Filtering under TCP settings and advanced. Filter all TCP and UDP, just add the TCP ports your DVR Remote Viewer uses -Turn off all unneeded services - see the list i posted before -Take off everything but what the DVR server needs from the start up - MSCONFIG -Run Ewido, Trojan Hunter, Spybot S&D, and if you have Nortons update it and then do a full scan - delete any trojans and viruses found. -Completely uninstall and remove MSN IM -Turn up all IE settings to high (Security & Privacy Tabs) & Enable Content Manager incase a staff member tries to browse (set a pass) -Disable Access to IE, MSN IM (if you dont want to delete it), and anything else that the DVR server software doesnt use -Run SpywareBlaster (once only) and enable all protection - just as added security -Run Windows Cleanup! ( http://cleanup.stevengould.org ) - use Thorough Cleanup from the Options -Run CCLeaner ( http://www.ccleaner.com/ccdownload.asp ), use the cleaner and the issues, do both 3 times. -Make sure you have a router, then port forward only the Ports the DVR Remote Viewer uses - normally just TCP only. all else fails or you feel too overwhelmed to do all this, install Ultra VNC and let me at it. Rory

Multi Pair Bundles are typically Cat3, or lets say that for this example. Everything i looked at with 15 pairs and more, etc, were Cat3. With a Active on one end and Passive on the other end (either way around) you can generally reach approx 3000' with Cat3. With Active on both ends and Cat3, generally 1 Mile. With Active on one end and Passive on other end and Cat5, generally 1 mile. With Active on both ends and Cat5, generally 1.5 miles. This is if you are using the NVT gear. Passive on both ends, personally I wouldnt use it beyond a couple hundred feet as you will loose video quality from there and beyond, even with RG59 or RG6 coax. NVT recommends no more than 750' with all passive, but really you can push it beyond that like 1000-1500', if you want to take that chance. I had horrible results with some cameras at only a couple hundred feet using Passive Baluns from several manufacturers. Basically use Cat5 "when you can" like C7 said, otherwise Cat3 will suffice for most apps. Rory

Im sure someone will contact you I used the Tamron Aspherical for IR so im sure their IR lenses must be good also.

Unfortunately you'll probably get what you have at that price. The decent cards cost alot more. Rory

UTP is generally cat3, though there are others. You loose quality over distance, so thats where amplified video comes in. Depends on the job, but there are a ton of posts on Active vs Passive UTP ..

it was the 4594 as the 4974 wasnt out yet. I used Tamron Aspherical Lenses as there wasnt such a thing as IR lenses back then.

I would probably go with either the Fujinon or the Extreme CCTV lens ..

they dont fail, cameras are pretty rugged, but the OEM housings, dust gets inside. I havent seen 1 single OEM housing where there wasnt dust and dirt inside it.

it prevents IR reflection back onto the lens.

Please posts your pros and cons for these, and any links .. thanks Rory

If anyone has used these please post here, they look interesting. http://www.activeye.com/ http://www.iomniscient.com/products.htm http://www.cernium.com/percepTrak.asp http://www.mate.co.il/page.asp?cat=23&lang=1&type=2 http://www.quantumsignal.com/products/software.html Open Source/Research: http://www.siebel-research.de/people_tracking/reading_people_tracker/

I prefer the GE line for their professional housings, they use their GE sentrol housings on most of them The cameras themselves arent anything special, just fixed lens cameras, they are high lux so need BW if you need low light, but you can get 480TVL color Smoke Detector cameras, and also multi lens versions. Ive also used Provideo and other OEMs, they are generally more sensitive for lower light apps, but look less professional, and dont have the High res in the smokes. Here is my choice of covert cameras: http://www.bahamassecurity.com/uploads/bsecureCCTV2.pdf

900', you're better off with RG6, otherwise Active UTP like NVT, Nitek, etc. If using UTP at that distance, other than Fiber, the only real gaurentee you will get will be with Active UTP. Passive will be a 50% chance at half that distance and only if you are lucky, heck I had issues at 200' with half the cameras, using Passive Baluns! Typically anything over 200' should be Active for "best image quality", Coax or UTP. Then again Im a freak for high quality video ..

also, have you tried them all on a single CCTV monitor (or TV) one at a time to make sure your issue isnt the DVR? Also take them all off the DVR and plug on in at a time, mess around with that and let us know.

what he said (again LOL) plus, it wont generally matter if its 12VDC or 24VAC on the same strip, but i would try and keep it seperate as you just never know. Just use 2 seperate strips, also, its "only" a surge strip so its not that much of any protection, not like a voltage regulator or Line Conditioner. 5-6 cameras are nothing really, what cameras are they and how much current do they draw?

does look similar, wonder about the split glass though, that would definately get rid of the IR reflection.

^ | -- What he said

whats the Sony's Compression and required bandwidth?

yep, see thats something you can do there that I cant do here I wanna see some images already

i cant speak for housings with heaters, but I like the GE ABS housings, and they also come with heaters and cable management, not cheap though. Also check out Wren. The GE ones arent the easiest to install but those suckers hold up good in a hurricane and stay dust and water free inside the housing and oh yeah, you can have them painted black easily for covert night apps.

I forgot to say. hope you have the UF500 power supply?

30 degree beam at 730nm will basically shoot the IR out to around 300'+, very powerfull, so you want to make sure you have nothing too close within that distance that will reflect such as bushes, white walls, etc. or you can get a ton of glare. Honestly the best would be another Extreme camera such as the EX27MX Day Night, or the BW version. Easy to install. Otherwise, 730nm, any camera that switches to BW will pick that up, though the more sensitive the better. If you can afford it, IR Corrected Lenses, otherwise Aspherical Lens such as from Tamron, and IR Optimized cameras if you can afford them. Im into doing it as simple as possible now, hence the EX27MX, or even the EX30 or the EX82. But the Sanyo Day Night camera also works with the UF500, so would many of the Decent Day Nights such as the GE KTC-2000DN, and i imagine others like bosch, etc. Cant say how well the Pano will or not as they dont say it in the specs. Just because it is IR responsive doesnt mean it will perform as well as others.

I have used the EX80's on an Altronix Multi Power Supply though, but they draw 1A each camera in 24VAC. 3000ma seems to be sufficient. Though you could buy 2 x 1A 24VAC Power Supply Plugs from Radio shack and use them, see what you get. I have used them before with the EX82's when i couldnt get my hands on the Altronix supplies. Rory