Jomadav

and after you have it set up, you are connecting the cameras network cable directly to the single lan/ wan port on the router?

 

Yes, you can see it on the pictures. Camera is connected to the nano router (RJ45 cable) and to the battery.

I did see that in the picture. Just wanted to be sure .

I ordered a TP-Link TLWR702N and just got it. I also ordered a battery similar to the one you have. The battery works fine, but the router won't set up. What "mode" do you have yours in? I connected mine to the interweb and looked at it through it's mgt page - changed IP and mode several times - no luck at all. Ready to return it. Any help?

 

Access Point mode. I have it with fixed address 192.168.1.18 (so it won't conflict when I connect it to my wired network); DHCP enabled, so when I connect my tablet, laptop, etc, with wifi it will connect to the network without any manual config.

and after you have it set up, you are connecting the cameras network cable directly to the single lan/ wan port on the router?

This is what I use.

 

A TP-Link nano router, which I can power with a small battery. The battery has 5V USB output, which I can use to power the nano router (or to charge my mobile phone), and also has a 12V output, which I can use to power up the camera. The router creates me a small wi-fi network, and I connect to it with a Nexus 10 tablet, which has 1920x1080 resolution.

 

I can use it for doing demos, for pointing cameras to the correct place, for focusing varifocal cameras, etc.

I ordered a TP-Link TLWR702N and just got it. I also ordered a battery similar to the one you have. The battery works fine, but the router won't set up. What "mode" do you have yours in? I connected mine to the interweb and looked at it through it's mgt page - changed IP and mode several times - no luck at all. Ready to return it. Any help?

that is very nice. I should look into doing something like that. Currently we are doing a large warehouse so what do you figure you get for range out of something like that? Do you need an active network connection or can the set up be used without? Do you strictly use it directly connected? Is the router is connected directly to the camera and you are on the lift/ ladder with your tablet? Great pics. Thank you

too cool

another Pinpoint Module I meant.

Is that the Razberi unit? if it is the one you're talking about, I have seen the same reviews. It appears to be under several different labels also. Maybe I need another option that is more in line with what other installation companies are currently doing. I also am considering buying a netbook or chrome book and a nother pin.. We currently use an extension cord with a single port Poe injector. It works great but I need to be able to send a tech out on a lift with a handheld manager as well as using my laptop back at the head end. Kind of stuck in the middle here.

I am looking for advice on buying a setup monitor/ tool. My budget is $300-$600 I am looking for handheld, "useable" screen, provides it's own PoE, and works with most manufacturers.

I understand I could look online, but I want to hear from other shops on what they are using and staying with. Proven stuff.

I already have a Veracity Pinpoint and like it. We need a self-contained handheld now.

We have an SES Cat.2 phone entry system installed at a customer location that has "a radio station" faintly coming through the speaker when panel is dialing a resident. I have disconnected the phone line and put a buttset on it - it is on the line itself. If I remember right, in Electronics school I heard somewhere you can place a capacitor across the speaker or phone line somewhere and stop it. Does anyone hear know how to do this or know what I am talking about? Or is it a Phone Co. fix?

I have the exact same issue right now. Do you know what software/ Firmware you currently have in the TN? I have a 16TN that works perfectly - but will not go through the DDNS.

I would not "cut and re-solder" a video connection. If your going to go that route you WILL have video quality issues down the road. Open connection, cold solder joint, RFI interference, etc. You can get a 2in. hole in the back of a 2 gang weather box (grey box) ...."a lot of room to work with". Silicone around top and sides to shed water, leave bottom edge open to drain against wall.

Black wall plumbing pipe...

 

Yes. This stuff is bullet proof. But humidity (alone) in an otherwise dry location will rust it terribly and it will look like Qrap, so you're going to have to do a very good job painting it. In addition, don't assume that all threaded joints are waterproof; I would suggest that you use a good joint compound to assure there is no water intrusion.

I was going with the "Indoors" part of the question I guess - my fault. If it's outdoors mounted, yes you have to waterproof all joints - I use regular pipe dope - no Teflon tape. I also use a product called P.O.R. ( Paint Over Rust) for exterior stuff - DuPont I think? About $30.00 a quart in black and it paints over rust/steel/nasty metal easily and holds up really well in the weather. It's made for under carriages of trucks and trailers. Another cool one is "rattle-can" under truck body spray - for smaller stuff. Takes a bit to get the hang of an even coat, but it fills cracks, scratches, pitts, pinholes, etc. in 1 or 2 coats.

I try and do all my fabrication and prep/ painting in the shop first then bring it out to the site as a complete unit. Looks professional to the cust. that way and keeps the job less messy...

Just buy L access point that agrees with your wallet.

...."L" ?

Black wall plumbing pipe. Home Depot. The pipe comes in standard sizes and 10 ft lengths, most of the time you can find it already threaded for the size on your housing. If not they can cut it and thread it for you. Also they have flanges for the other end (top) with bolt holes for mounting. Very rigid, clean looking, and accepts paint if you clean it first.

My 2 cents worth.....When we have to run on the exterior and then back in, we use schedule 40 PVC and dump into a "Bell" box ( 2 gang w/ Stainless Steel cover), then use the rear knock-out for the entrance into the house. You can make the opening in the back of the box any size you want as long as you can still mount it. Also, not mentioned here yet - by code you have to use Duct Seal to plug the hole around the wires into the house and also have a "weep" hole in the bottom of the box/ fitting outside. Try to keep the run "out of the center" of the wall, go towards the edges/corners or horizontal until you can come down.

It's not always the prettiest option, but opening drywall can cost a lot more.

I am looking suggestions for a small, cheap, light, fast WL router to use for work. Similar to the ones people need when they travel.

What I am doing is installing IP video cameras and for aiming and focusing I want to view them through the customers network. The problem is they don't always have WiFi and I need to have my laptop close to the cameras to cut down on walking. So, I am thinking if I just add a temporary WL access point/ router while I am doing the job it would make life a lot easier.

My thoughts are to just to simply "plug and play" the WL router from job to job.

Any suggestions on brand-type-price?

A long time ago someone recommended to me a small, grey wireless access point made by D-link or TP- Link for about 30-40$ and I am trying to find the model #.

What I am trying to do is : I have my modem downstairs and a WL Router upstairs in my house that has one LAN port feeding a GIGA switch back downstairs and I am running out of ports. I want to "reverse" my setup - put modem, WL router, and switch downstairs and run one line back upstairs to just a WL access point.

I already have runs for the TV and BluRay off the switch So all I need is just the access point upstairs.

I also am open to redesigning or rearranging what I have going here.

No longer needed.

Hey guys, sorry for the late reply. I have to bow-out on this one. I don't work with QSee so I can't offer anything here. The only odd ball thing to make sure of, is when you are checking internal port open/ closed settings, make sure you physically have a device attatched to the switch/ router ext. port. Alot of equipment out there will allow you to "open" ports - but they won't show open from the outside until something is physically plugged into it. Good luck.

I know sometimes you can have the ports "open" in the modem itself, and not in the "router". So I would be shure to go into the pgmg of both devices and double check port forwarding and and filtering. In the recorder sometimes you have to toggle DDNS off to go back and set Dynamic and vice-versa. Did you let the DDNS/ DVRNS pick your site name or did you create it?

I use www.ping.eu when checking ports from the outside, it's similar to canuseeme but more comprhensive in my opinion. As far as the DDNS goes, try it once with a dynamic IP, then power cycle, and see if it registers and gets out of the building. If so, then you have an issue in your IP structure. Don't leave it dynamic if you can help it though. Also, can Q-see tech. support hit the recorder?

we use the pinpoint and a laptop and find it handy to setup cameras during construction as often the customer does not have the server room ready we can at least get the focus and such pretty much done. ALso we know the camera is working after install.

Thats the road I want to go down. I will pick up a couple of the PinPoint modules this week.

I hear ya. But if I have to go move one or two cams out say 20 or so. It's time and money well spent. And yes, we still use drawings in bids - as well as pictures and special notes about each cam if needed. We try to get it right the first time without customer involvement. Depends on the customer I guess, I can see some getting mad also for taking up their time.

That comes in the "fine tuning" part. The response was to the earlier statement about asking the customer to help with focusing. I do ask for the end users input - at the very end. I also have them sign off on FOV for all cams on one sheet after seeing them on their monitors when we are all done. That way there are no questions about charges on callbacks for re-aiming. During the bidding phase, the sales person should have drawings showing FOV for each cam so there shouldn't be a need for for our tech.'s to get the customers opinions at the time of install. If it's a small job (>1000 sq. ft. & 2 cams ) sure ...but most of the time the people I meet with have no idea of how many or where they are aimed. That's why I started all this. I am trying to nail down procedures to make this more efficient and profitable for us and provide a better level of service to the customer/ end user. Alright, that sounds cheesy, you get the point. No offense meant by any of it

We are all saying the same thing here.

1. if you have a running network and 2U of available space in a rack in a operational IT room at the customer location- install the PoE switch, network patch, then wire out to cams, then hang cams, then use PinPoint with WAP and laptop to aim/ focus.

2. If no network is available and no IT room exists - hang cams and aim/ focus with midspan POE injector and PinPoint module along with laptop.

3. Use 2-way radios and another tech. if you have one available and aim/ focus after the PoE switch and recorder are installed and powered up.

....we all understand these methods. I have never asked the end user to assist me with set up and never will - fine tuning later maybe. I have never dropped a laptop either, hopefully never will.

You have all helped me here and I will apply this going forward.

P.S. which cams have 2 jacks on them?

We have had several jobs lately where the guys are finished cable pulling and camera mounting and the IT room is not finished i.e no racking, no Sheetrock, no electrical yet. My goal is to come back and install the NVR and load server/ client software and not have to pull another man to come down and re- aim and focus. Otherwise - we talked about this earlier, I would just put the switch in first and be done with all this. But that doesn't altogether solve viewing at the cam by itself. I know it's alot of talking and not alot of working, but the idea here is to come up with a system and implement it - no matter which type it is. May very well be just to order the switch and NVR together with a monitor and put them on a cart until IT is ready. That's roughly $16,000 sitting on a $100 cart in an unsecured job site - I don't like that idea either. My goal here was to see if I could fix this issue with equipment or does it need to be fixed by scheduling us later on the install.