cctv_down_under

If you can take 9mb PM me

No more wires, but yes generaly a full body camera, there are some that arent but I wouldn't touch them, its not hard to set up, its pretty much out of the box.

1/2" Black and white would be good but more expensive than 1/3" black and white and need to buy 1/2" lens which is more expensive.

All I am saying is that if you want good performance then a true day night is the answer with IR lighting provided, without IR lighting you can geta fake day/night where the filter isnt removed but it changes to black and white...it wont pick up the IR well though.

If you spend the money....Ganz, Bosch or Panasonic make excelllent true day night cameras.

You could go for a no name brand but if you were doing that I would stick to only banck and white as less moving parts.....less hassles

9mb way too big

where are you located?

Cost effectively Blanck an white cameras will be the best replacement, they dont have the filter...but then it makes it hard to say "he was wearing a red shirt".

True day night cams use the mechanical filter and obviously with moving parts its much better to buy quality

I havea video presentation on this but it may be too big to send

Use the rackmounted Altronix ones, they have a lifetime warranty

Change your video source properties in Geo to one that supports SW interlace....IE 640x480SW instead of just 640x480 and upgrade your video card

Test the peak signal on an oscilliscope

Bosch sell pressurised PTZ's for marine environments, but I still dont think that could be submerged...i am pretty sure that extreme cctv moondance might be ok, never had a close enough look

Hate to sprout Bosch again, but thats why the Bilinx opiton is cool, programmed up the coax and run through software

Try unplugging the cam from power and let it bleed out all power...leave it for at least 20 mins, then power it back up and tell me if the picture is now fine at the time of power up...perhaps its just some dodgy caps

try to understand that light has a pretty broad spectrum...although we cant see most IR light some cameras can...but if we didnt sheild the camera from IR light then the colours and response of the camera would be affected...the Ir light isnt just there when you have a lamp...sun and other things give of IR.

Each colour camera therefore has a filter to block IR light coming into the camera, this is why with a true day/night camera the filter is removed when low light levels are detected to allow IR light to pass through to the sensor.

Cheap colour bullets will have not have a removable filter and therefore they block the IR light

Plug in your GV Net, then put a multi meter on the terminals, then try to click on the arrows to move the cam, measure any voltage difference...if you get no difference then nothing is coming out, try the same from the keyboard to ensure you get the same results.

Perhaps the keyboard provides termination of the TX signal and your camera does not?

What you are possibly witnessing is Frame Interlace...when two fields becme one frame, try switching your video source to one that supoorts software interlacing.

for Example 640x480SW.

Make sure your video card is a decent one

I would bet its just the camera, however if the camera has a phase level switch...then adjust it...i doubt it will if it i cheap...some cams hava r g and b button on the back or a tune dial, this adjust the amounts of red green and blue in the picture

For your reference, any of the XF full body cameras from Bosch can use cable compensation to enhance the length of your run, by the time you consider switching to NVT and baluns or perhaps a distribution amplifier, it works out about the same to upgrade to an XF cam for example I think you can then run about 600 Meters on RG59, which is more than I usually need.

No I dont work for Bosch anymore....haven't for some time actually

Casino's are a bit different, they tend to standardise on MPEG2 as it is the Best compression, they also thend to run a front end matrix...quite oftne analogue controlled that works by interfacing to controls of Indivisual 1 camera DVR's

IE 1 DVR per camera.......you heard right 300 cams = 300 DVR's, the reasoning is that if a single dvr fails, you only loose 1 x camera until replacement..and spare untis can be matrixed into play instantly

This is why at airports they still use pan tilt heads, sometimes a dome ptz is not always the best

Some PTZ's put the control signal on a seperate frequency in the coax, this means one cable only.....I only know of three brands to do this though

I tend to agree with that last message you will wear out the bands in the ptz.... if not reaching a high enough vertical plane is your issue then use a PTZ head and mount a standard camera on it, then you can mount the camera with modification to suit your angle?

There are indeed two sizes...but dangerously differing thread lengths...IE you keep turning the thread until it is in focus, but long shafted threads can easly be turned to far and scratch the CCD..so be carefull and measure how far you are threading

I think the data port is a return path for pawword verification...but not sure

To test just plug your output from the register assuming serial, straight into a geo dvr...without the capture box (you actually dont need it with 1 x input)!

Some cameras these days actually have amplification settings built in and they measure the impedance on the run and auto adjust...I still use Coax...but perhaps I am old fashioned, I also do not like the skew affect.

If I havea long run I simply use a camera with built in amplification and ...no worries on Coax