Kiwi

So, i can plug 48v PoE switch straight into lets say 12v PoE camera ?

Absolutely, it doesn't matter what "voltage" the camera uses IF you are using the POE to power it. It knows what to do, it's an IEEE standard.

"you have to check docs"

What exactly I should be looking at ?

As I said, only if *not* using the POE. How did you find out it was a "12V" camera? - you checked the docs!

The table you posted are the details of how the POE injector (midspan or POE switch) internally figures out if its safe to apply voltage to the cable. You don't need to worry about that stuff. It's the job of the POE camera to figure out how to power itself off whatever appears on the line.

Yes, the thinking is correct, the exact wording less so.

Voltage is not "cut off," power is converted with minimal losses to the voltage needed at the circuit level. So if the POE can supply 48V at 100mA then the camera may convert that to 5V at up to a bit less than the ideal 960mA. This is the "wonder" of switch-mode power electronics!

A POE camera *not* powered with POE may, or may not, have a wide tolerance for voltage at the separate terminals provided. You have to check the docs.

But, as an example, I think the Arecont 3130 as an example can take anything from 12 to 48 V at the "separate" power input terminals.

No. POE starts off with 48 VDC at the powering end in order to maximize power with minimal losses due to wire resistance. 48 V is chosen based on what is acceptable to apply to this class of wiring.

The recipient of the power at the other end needs to convert whatever voltage is left (after cable losses at the current used) to whatever voltage it needs, up to a max of 13 watts.

If that device is a POE-compatible camera such as an Arecont it will deal with that internally without any user intervention.

If your powered device is not equipped with POE (as per the original post) then you need to use a "power splitter" to extract the power out of the cable and convert it to the exact voltage required by the end use. That's why there is a choice of 5, 12, etc, with a max of 13 watts.

The device supplying power has no idea what you are doing with it, but it will limit its output to 15.4 watts.

Almost without doubt your hard disk is overheating causing read/write errors and the unit is restarting to in an attempt to correct it. I've seen the same problem on my 782.

To test this, just run it with the cover removed.

I fixed mine by installing a fan directly under the hard disk.

You need a balun at each end and the signal stays analog over the CAT5/6, and at the exit. To convert to IP you need what's called a "video server," not normally cost effective compared to just getting an IP camera in the first place.

That camera you specified looks OK for the fence but you need to be sure the 6mm lens has the correct angle (about 36 degrees) for your viewing requirements. The IR strength looks OK but there will be a very slightly visible glow at night.

If they have a suitable return policy I would just buy one and try it out. It's the best way to learn

Another low-cost option, 3 analog cameras - all with IR (and baluns as reqd,) and a Swann USB 4-ch DVR dongle. I have one of these devices and it actually works very well, includes software with remote viewing.

Hmm, I'm just a home user too but will make a few comments.

First, I wouldn't get too hung up on IP cameras just because you have the CAT6 cable. You can run the analog over that cable too, and you will have far more options regarding choosing a camera that can address the more critical issue - that of getting good images under the lighting and spacial conditions you have specified, and within your budget. Might be different if there was another zero on those budget numbers!

I would also think a bit about whether the baby cam and outdoor camera(s) have the same viewing requirements - perhaps you would prefer a separate monitor to make the baby cam more convenient to view continuously while you are engaged in your evening activities, without tying the computer screen. You won't have a need to record it while the other location needs recording but almost no monitoring. And neither need pro NVR software like Luxriot.

Looking at the D-Link line of cheaper IP's, none of them look suitable for low light and all have unimpressive resolution. But I'll bet they all come with free NVR software. Presumably there is one somewhere with IR LED's for the baby cam.

For the outdoor application you will likely need two cameras, one to capture the event and the other zoomed-in to ID the person as they pass by. Even then, a street light does not necessarily have the right sort of light nor the best orientation to make a good image. An IP camera may not have the frame rate you need to capture the event.

Buy some stuff and try it out to get an idea of what works in your case.

This connector is known as a Kobicon on Digikey, Mouser, and other industrial electronics suppliers in the US. I've never seen it used for anything other than camera iris control.

OK, I read the router manual and this is what I think is correct, assuming you have stuck mostly to the router's default factory settings:

DVR

IP = 192.168.1.100 (or anything up to .254)

Network = 255.255.255.0

Gateway = 192.168.1.1

ROUTER

Under "UPnP Forwarding" (not the other that you picked)

App = DVR1

Ext Port = 8000

protocol = TCP

Int Port = 8000

IP = 100 (or as above)

enabled

App = DVR2

Ext port = 8000

prototcol = UDP

Int port =8000

IP =100 (or as above)

enabled

You may need to enter another line with both ports = 80 and TCP

Now, if you don't have a static internet IP (your ISP can tell you) then you need to set up DDNS. It's pretty simply, yell if you need help.

In the meantime you can test it by noting the internet IP in the router status page.

Try this and report back!

Why not just list all the current network and forwarding settings on your DVR and router, that way we can help?

Yep, lenses can make a huge difference. Neither of those seem to be megapixel lenses either, something else to try. I have not done that myself - can't get that sort of stuff here and no one will ship here either without a wire transfer. These pics have been on this board for more than six months, dragged them out for show.

With the simple 4mm lenses supplied by Arecont:

Daytime 1920 x 1200 http://tinyurl.com/2ew5ug (lots of IR focus shift)

Nighttime 1280 x 1024 http://tinyurl.com/2wjpot

With a pair of 16mm 2/3" CCTV lenses, high-quality machine vision type, f/5.6 day, f/1.4 night (edited)

>at 2048 x 1536 (the full 3 MP) http://tinyurl.com/2wckan

> night, 1280 x 848 full res but vertically cropped http://tinyurl.com/6hl6wv

> at 1024px × 768px, half res, different white balance setting, and inside a housing http://tinyurl.com/29bfsz (my current configuration)

Selected portion of image, 704px × 544px, using command line options http://tinyurl.com/29tnlv

I know I could improve the image with a multi-megapixel lens but it's just being used as a webcam for now.

A bit of a confusing post. All I can suggest is that these lines caught my attention:

> Setup Dyndns to correct port and ip addy. (there is no port or IP in setup of DDNS)

> Dyndns reroute hasn't worked yet. (well, then that's the problem with the DDNS side of things

> tried DMZ, nothing. (have you checked the network and gateway IP's on your DVR, typically something like 255.255.255.0 and 192.168.1.1)

Keep trying, the only related problem I sometimes run into is that the DNS changes do not propagate as fast as I would like and there is sometimes a delay in the access via the dyndns.org hostname.

For a better answer you might want to simply list all the relevant settings you have made (perhaps we should have a standard form!) and most people who know this stuff would spot the mistake immediately.

Is it not marked on the back panel? I would assume it's the same 19VDC many other Avtech's use, need at least 45 watts. A 19V power pack typically used for a Dell notebook should work with the correct plug installed.

More importantly the DVR will depend on access to a standard outgoing email server, not an secured one on a different port. Some ISP's block the standard port although they should open it for you if requested.

I've used the FTP and it's reliable but it will only give you a number of initial (and tiny) images. Don't rely on this as a backup to someone stealing your DVR!

The motion detection should work reliably if indoors and curtains drawn. Mine only screws up when the sun shines directly into the camera or a bird flys by!

I would suspect a network problem rather than an issue with the DVR's. Suggest rechecking all the IP settings and hardware. Connect a different PC (than the current client) directly to each DVR with a crossover cable and test individually.

I see this message whenever the connection is flaky or slow.

From the specs for a LDR (light dependent resister):

Spectral Peak Response: 520 - 560nm (typical) @ 25°C; 660nm (peak)

My guess is that it's less affected by the IR LED's switching on than the CCD so less risk of cycling.

Another possibility is that the some processing chips for the CCD do not have an outgoing pin for this function.

Well, there is a common communication standard - tcp/ip. But, yes, all the exact commands needed to draw images and set up parameters seem to be proprietary. The several NVR's I've tested with my Arecont had to be set up for a "generic" IP camera - you just enter in the required http:// command to access the image.

Any device that is normally accessed via an IP address is going to need a simple utility to initially locate it via the MAC address and configure the basic tcp/ip settings. Having default settings works fine if you only have one . Arecont provide that separate from the NVR.

Once that is done everything else regarding setup can be done on a browser command line if you wish.

Have a look at a WIndows application called Willing Webcam.

As noted in the documentation you need to buy a proprietary adapter from AVtech. It's not a standard port of any type.

One advantage with the DN types is that the resolution doesn't change when it switches over. It's a pain on the 3130.

But the DN doesn't support an AI lens if I understand the specs correctly, an essential feature and a plus towards the 3130 as the mono side lens can be left wide open.

Personally I would not buy another Arecont unless it was very inexpensive. Have you looked at the IQeye range?

I need a 16 channel DVR to install in a relative's retail shop. I've settled on this model partly because it (apparently) has independent remote viewing (meaning view changes are not seen system-wide like half of the AVtech units) and it's available in Australia where the shop is located. I'm also familiar with AVtech's menus and setup - just want to make sure there aren't any serious drawbacks before we buy it.

In particular I would expect any of the staff at the 2 or 3 POS terminals (just PC's running XP) to be able to select a specific camera as required for that area of the shop, and then leave the application running all day without soaking up too much network bandwidth.

I'm replacing the present installation which is a single channel DVR combined with an 8 channel switching multiplexer, something I didn't even know existed until I saw this one! The 8 installed monochrome cameras fortunately are all good quality and situated well.

Thanks for any comments!

Welcome.

I attended nursery school (or kindergarten?) in Manchester, when I was about 4 years old of course

The timer record is only one parallel means by which it can record. It needs to be ON for motion and alarm recording to be possible. It also needs to be ON for remote viewing and download, functions that are expected to be present all the time.

Kind of sad that the AVC761 won't.

Learn about it rather than jump to conclusions!

I'll try to help as I'm sure Steve is very busy.

Presumably you have a suitable Java runtime engine installed and can go to java.com and past the test?

If not try here:

http://www.superwaba.com.br/en/default.asp

As far as I know .jad is a decompiler extension, not really applicable.

Do you have a manual? If not easy to download.

For a lot of info, search on this forum for AVC760 or AVC761.

You need to use the utility supplied on the CD to set the IP. After that you can do most things from the commnd line.

Support is supposed to be supplied by whomever you purchased it from.

There is another thread on that subject somewhere.

The user guide can be found with a bit of google searching - it's generic.