b1gbleu

I meant moving it as a test to see if it still distorts. Does it coincide with sunset then sunrise? Not the actual time but when light in it's view changes. Does someone beyond you have lights on a timer? I had problems when my town switched to led lamps on the poles, I had to change night settings to daylight. Another problem I had was my new neighbor's Christmas lights would keep my coach lamp from turning on, I put some duct tape and thin plastic near the sensor to block the light from hitting it.

Get a hole saw or a wing bit a 1/4" larger than the camera and drill into the face of the 2x6 at a slight upward angle then insert the camera through the rear and secure it.

Lavender90, As others have cautioned about drilling in the cold, you could split the siding as the drill is pushing out instead of a neat hole being drilled. Another problem with drilling from the inside is you usually cannot mount anything exactly where the wire pops out. If you push on the siding with your finger you will notice it's relatively loose. Only the outside corners are stiff.

Interesting, move this camera 8" to the other side of the good camera.

Securame, nice but expensive. He did only say ip camera. Most cameras should be able to be setup from an app using a phone or tablet which is way cheaper.

That looks like a defective camera image. The rest of the image is perfect, so there's no weakness like static or lines across the image.

When I was installing analog cameras the lens connectors had several different pin-outs with either a round or square configuration. We'd have to solder a connector to the lens wires that usually were stripped back. We also needed the wiring diagram for the lens as well as the camera to match them up. The panasonic wv-bl204 camera was the easiest because they offered most lens sizes and were pre-wired.

You could cut the wire and splice the 3 or 4 wires back together in the right pin configuration. Sometimes 2 wires would go to 1 terminal and 1 pin goes unused.

Makes me wonder why the bad cable is bad.

LOL, one word. Landscapers.

WiseSolutionLLC, old panasonic cameras we used had a "GEN LOCK" connector which interconnected the cameras so they wouldn't roll. After that job we ALWAYS ran an extra wire or 2 of each type.

Hey, Eric, the white cube in the pics is just a coupler (extension) for the short wire.

By the looks of that, the cat 5 wire is only carrying the video, the power for the camera is probably somewhere else, possibly at the camera.

They used to make signal injectors (booster) for video cameras. Consider running 24v to the shed to power a 12vdc battery charger/power supply. Altronix smp-3 is a good example. Put a 12v10Ah battery on it and you'll have nice standby power and you could power some led lights wired to motion detectors. Then use the charger output to power the camera.

That multiplexer uses coax cable for camera video. The cameras probably have individual 24vac power packs plugged in locally or a large transformer with a terminal strip. The video out signal from the multiplexer ( or any individual camera) could be connected to a USB video capture device that could then be plugged into a laptop or pc. You would need a BNC to composite (RCA) adapter. If you have a Micro Center near you, they should have the cable and the capture device. You could also get a PCIe capture card and put it into some pc and stream the video. Good luck! Most if not all equipment may be salvageable. Failed cameras could be replaced with newer ones easily.

The 600v rating means it can be safely run adjacent to wires with no more than 600v running though them. Of course if the cat6 wire is not actually part of the same equipment the high voltage wiring is powering, it should be in a separate enclosure (conduit).

I want to mount this on my truck for full time rear view mirror and would like to know the settings. Thanks

So I recently received a Promaster PMC for work without rear windows. What a pleasure not knowing how fast someone directly behind me is going when I'd like to change lanes! Or if they also want to change into the other lane as well. I had a Hivision DS-2CD2032-I I wasn't using so I mounted it on the roof rack, and temporarily dropped the wires (just reached) through the rear door gasket.

I rigged two power connectors (easy since they use a standard plug) to the rear 12V outlet and plugged in the camera and an unused Netgear wifi router I had laying around to the lan port on the camera. I also had a spare android phone I had lying around so I installed the ONVIF camera viewing app on it. I Powered up the Netgear and associated the wifi. I Added the camera to the app and was happy as a pig in sh!t cuz it worked! Only problem I'm having is it's a bit laggy, I really want real-time video. I've tried with a faster tablet and 5G wifi but it's not affecting the video enough. I also tried a new TP-LINK G50 router but wifi doesn't seem to be the issue. I lowered the resolution on the camera to 1280x720, adjusted frame rates from 30 to 20 but the problem is after anywhere from 10-30 minutes the video is falling behind. I stop at a traffic light and the video catches up from 1-5 seconds later. I also tried other free apps but they were much worse. Even the HIK ivms4500 app does it only sooner.

Yo, I don't blame you! Get some paint on those walls and you won't be embarrassed

A wired backup cam can easily be drilled and pressed into the siding next to the door then run to video in on a TV or converted with a video to wifi adapter

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pyle-Rear-View-Camera-with-Night-Vision/12518862?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227009123185&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40839319232&wl4=pla-78652555112&wl5=9004447&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=12518862&wl13=&veh=sem

search for rv backup camera. as long as there's ac power in the garage, you can buy a 12vdc wall pack to run the camera.