SeanMort

Just for those interested in sending dry contact messages via SMS or Email these links provide some products that do the job. Prices I'm not sure about. http://www.commtechwireless.com/pages/products/alarm.php?=&logout=1 http://www.simplecomtools.com/serialswitchsmtp.html If you can get a good deal from the guys above it's probably the cleanest solution for a tricky customer. I'm sure we've all had our share of these. Let me guess ... he hasn't paid in full until the "feature" is there ?!? ... and you need the money for the next job !! The GE Storesafe has a fantastic E-mail/Alarm feature. The WaveReader software also has a great Alarm Monitoring feature whereby the DVR uploads chosen pps/cam to the PC running the software on every alarm. A lot of the DVR's now have similar features.

I would try an SMS alert device (in this country there are plenty to choose from so you should have them in the US too). This usually has several contact inputs and will send an SMS to a mobile phone on contact closure with a custom message. Hook this up to the DVR alarm contact out and it will send the SMS/s. Depending on the mobile Service Provider connected to, they may have an SMS to e-mail facility (once again, they exist over here so ... ). Perhaps your customer will be happy with just an SMS to his mobile. He will have to pay for the running costs of this though. Depending on how the "event/alarm" is generated (VMD etc) he may have a load of SMSes/e-mails that could cost a whack and be annoying.

I'll answer the control bit of your question. There are two ways to control PTZ's/domes normally. If you are going to use a GE/Kalatel PTZ or dome product then it simply connects directly to the DVR's RS-485 port, and this can then be controlled via the WaveReader software application (if the DVR is networked to a home PC), or an external GE/Kalatel Keyboard (also connects to the DVMRe). Choice is yours, but the WaveReader solution isn't going to break the bank. Second is the choice of PTZ product. There are a number of PTZ & dome products that have the ability to connect to the DVMRe. What you need to establish is if the dome or PTZ supports the GE/Kalatel (Digiplex) protocol. If it doesn't then GE makes a variety of protocol converters called a ProBridge that connects between a specific PTZ or dome make, and the DVMRe, and translates the control data to and fro (get the make/model before you buy it and find out if it is compatible via this forum, or from GE). Personally speaking, and costs aside, I would look within the GE range for a PTZ or dome camera to suit your application. They make a nice little economical dome camera that is cost effective and will probably do the job for the garage. It also makes things less complicated for the layman. As for the cameras you need: not knowing the outside light levels at night I would nonetheless opt for using separate external IR lights (and one in your garage) with decent Day/Night camera types. Rory ??

Putting a transmitter too close to the receiver "crushes" the receiver front-end circuit. I agree with the wireless not being appropriate. I also hate the darn things although they are neccessary in some places. With using cable though there is always the concern about induced voltage/inteference entering the coax whenever the lift gets juiced up for the next floor. We have seen this slightly on the lifts we have done. I've never done this before in a lift but what about using stranded CAT5 and baluns like the ones GE makes ? They work great in standard installations and show less interference than coax when run against power. Perhaps cable is the best way to go and get done with it.

A lot of these devices have the Pelco protocol to control speed domes, or for the domes to be compatible with Pelco controllers, but to control a Panasonic matrix is another thing altogether. The protocol structure would have to contain a whole bunch of other commands to control the matrix and this is not really "freely" shared info between manufacturers. They don't seem to mind sharing dome protocols but with other things it becomes "tricky".

I don't know the protocol but can get it for you. Are you aiming to construct your own protocol converter ? I doubt very much that a Pelco controller will work together with a Panasonic matrix and a speed dome (also Pelco?). I've never seen an off-the-shelf converter for this end of the matrix, but it's not impossible that it exists. The standard thing to do is to connect a Panasonic to Pelco protocol converter on the matrix switchers control data output (RS-485/422). I can give you the contact info of an old friend of mine in Texas who specialises in this sort of thing (protocol bridges and the like), just PM me.

Just as I said ... if it aint relaible ..... LOL

The reflections I was talking about are the transmitted waves being reflected off the metal in the lift shaft causing ghosting similar to a badly aligned TV antenna. 2.4Ghz being a smaller wavelength may reduce this potential problem but it's a bit of a thumbsuck as you won't know if it will work until it's installed. Even then you may get varying results at each lift level. I've seen this kind of problem in a mine shaft and the way we got around that was to use a leaky feeder cable system for the cams. But this gear was expensive. Check out the link below and see what these things cost in your country: http://www.rollanet.org/~jim/work.html What I meant about the IP thing was to use IP cams (or a codec such as NVT) in the lifts linked to a 802.11G wireless gateway and stream the signals out digitally, or use digital microwave.

We've done a few of these and we use RG174 cable for the job because it's thinner and lighter, and lasts longer than stranded centre RG59. The cable still needs to be replaced about every two years though. Haven't done a 10 story building yet, max was 6 stories. The wireless may work depending on frequency (1.2Ghz may be bad for reflections). Otherwise try IP & WiFi these two cams on a stream to another box.

Most of this kind of system is invariably a modded intercom that gives a contact out to a pre-shot on a PTZ or dome when it is used. Perhaps the PTZ or dome was repaired/replaced and the pre-shots need to be re-programed, or the intercom is not giving the contact output anymore.

Difficult to answer ... it's a bit like asking the same questions of a car. Are the wheels important or is the engine, or is the steering wheel ? There are a number of co-dependant features that make or break a DVR's feature set. But if you must ask the question then my first answer would be: Is it reliable (not really a "feature" answer but it negates a feature answer) ? Second would be ease of use. If it's a really really good DVR but it's really really painful to operate, the customer will hate it.

I've been using Visio for all my drawings. Started out using it in 1997 when I bought a package called InterCad at IFSEC, it had all the CCTV component stencils bundled with Visio. I just upgraded my Visio over the years and still use the stencils and the all ones that manufacturers have on CD's. One of the things I have started to use, which works great for site cabling distances etc is the Google Earth site. It allows you to get a reasonably clear aerial view of most places on earth and has a measuring tool which you can drag from point to point and get fair estimates of distance. I can also take a snapshot of the site, paste it into Visio, and then trace a sketch over it before deleting/hiding the snapshot. Anyone else tried this ?

I assume you mean the Geovision 8 Ch ? You'll need to put the extra camera and the 8th camera through a real-time colour quad switcher (Input 1 & 2) and hook-up the output of the quad to the GV800 Ch 8 Input. The quad processor merely keeps the sync pulse alive so that the GV800 doesn't auto disable the channel input. The tricky part is how you want to record the 8th input channel; as a slow sequence between the two cam's (if the quad has the feature) or as an alarmed switch using external PIR's at the cam's (if the quad has alarm inputs), or as a 2 camera montage of a quad screen (not so nice).

Try these links for training: http://www.tavcom.com (if in the UK) http://www.ltctrainingcntr.com (if in the US) http://www.cctv-focus.com/ (if in Australia) http://www.cctv.com.au/ (Also Australia)

Try Repel 100. I think you can get it a Boots. My son lives in London and brought some over here on holiday. It's quite deadly. We use the Baygon over here

A little plastic Praying Mantis or Chameleon mounted on the cam ?!?

Fiber Options gear from GE is your best bet. As per a previous post I'd be happy to help you with the fiber stuff. Just PM me.

1.) AC24 vs 12V DC - what is the big difference? Is one better than the other and why? Apart from the distance advantage mentioned by other replies, the 24V AC power supply over the 12VDC unit doesn't contain much electronics (regulators, rectifiers caps etc) that makes it prone to running hotter, getting damaged by surges easier (a simple fuse on the 24V supply takes care of that) and results in a physically larger power supply running less cameras on it than a 24V unit would. Ground return problems (inteference on some DC Systems due to DC minus and co-ax screen being different lengths on multi camera hookups) are also largely minimised. Most seasoned installers in this country use 24VAC over a 12VDC system due to these reasons. This country also experiences a lot of lightning and transients and we have found that a 24VAC camera survives these hands-down over 12V models. If 12VDC is required somewhere along the line in a 24VAC system then we simply use a "down-converter" to do the job. 12VDC cameras, though, are a little cheaper, and this will suffice for smaller installations if cost is an issue. 2.) Bullet Camera vs a standard camera. It seems the standard cameras (the kind you need to put in housing to be outdoors) have a little better quality but seem to be much more expensive. Are they worth the extra money and why. The Bullet Camera has it's place in the market. But all too often it seems to have become the "one-size-fits-all-and-it's-cheaper" (*OSFI) approach to system design. It's a great and sensible camera choice for most indoor/semi-outdoor closer object surveillance situations, but when you're faced with a customer who wants to watch his 50' long warehouse, or the perimeter of his large premises, then be sensible and choose at least a standard camera/lens/housing combo. The reason is this: the average Bullet Camera, for the most part, does not have a decent lens & iris combination (let alone imaging chip). The Lens is a simple design, because it's job of close surveillance doesn't require anything more. The Iris (light intake control) is done electronically (AGC) to keep size down but the circuitry to do this has limited dynamic range. So all told, it mostly battles with bright outdoor lighting and/or low light sensitivity and/or depth-of-field (goes out of focus at low light), and for longer distance use the lens choices are hard to come by. There are bullet cameras that have decent lenses etc that can go the mile but the prices of these units are pretty much the same as a standard camera combo. When it comes to making camera choices do some homework because if you use the *OSFI approach the school fees will hurt, and you may lose a customer. 3.) Standalone dvr vs pc. currently i have been using standalone dvr and like the stability of them. I understand that the pc dvr's have greater frame rates and can be more flexible. My standalone dvr NEVER crashes. How is the stability of the PC DVR's. Subject of much hot debate .... it's down to choice/preference borne out by homework and asking questions. My approach to this subject has always been to ask myself at least this; 1. Will it last and perform well for at least 4 years, and without too much tinkering ? 2. If tinkering is required during and after this period, will the expertise/company/parts etc still be around, and is it easy to achieve ? 3. Does it work for the customers needs/budget, and the installers peace of mind ? There are many reputable brands of both "species", and of course those that also don't make the grade. It pays to do some serious homework in this field. 4.) Distributor's - currently i am using ADI is there a certain distributor that anyone finds awesome. Also is there somewhere that is easy to find information about bringing in cameras from overseas and organizations that are reliable in providing them. Unless you're experienced in this field I would stick to the local distributors as a person new in this game. When something goes wrong with the equipment (and it will) it's easier and cheaper to deal with someone on your doorstep than it is elsewhere in the world (language/culture/time-zone/money). The warranty you pass on to your customer is important to them, and your reputation is at stake. There are loads of CCTV manufacturers/distributors out there. Just beware - "In the land of the blind the one-eyed man is king !!" 5.) Reflection ring on 14led ir bullet camera. what usuallly causes these rings and how can they be fixed. The usual causes of this problem is the internal reflection and refraction of the IR light back into the camera lens via the porthole glass or the outer rim around it. Bullet cameras of this type usually have a black plastic or foam ring around the front of lens that butts up to the small glass porthole to separate it's light collection input from the LEDs light output. We have found that in some of these bullet cameras types the plastic/foam ring either doesn't fit flush against the porthole glass or is non-existant (!). We have also found that the IR light, being a long penetrative wavelength, penetrates the black plastic ring allowing light in, or it refracts (travels through at an angle) on the porthole glass back into the lens. Most of these problems are not easily fixed. The use of an external IR Light cannot be beaten for performance. Good luck. As a newbie to the game you need info the most. There are a few decent courses and handbooks available in this game. Check out: http://www.tavcom.com or http://www.ltctrainingcntr.com

I think I can help you (I hope !). I'm a certified fiber optic tech & trainer and have had extensive experience with Fiber Options/IFS/FiberTek/COE gear since 1994 in many different applications around Southern Africa. Was the Fiber Options agent down here for several years until they got GE'd.

I'd Google it, but for good R&D info you could try this link; http://www.elektor-electronics.co.uk/

It should be under the "Configure" link of the IP/index.ssi page. If you forget the username/password there is a manuf. access code to reset. Rory, I'd be happy to give you these codes directly if don't have 'em. For the WrSecurity.mdb file too, as it's a protected Access file but some people like to modify to suit, such as putting in a flag for Level 3 users to tell who is connected.

Lengthy answer (Sorry my Ritalin is to blame!!) Assuming all the gear is OK and hasn't been modded I wouldn't bother spending precious time trying to unravel somebody elses mess (from your description it sounds nasstyy!). Sketch out exactly how it should be wired to work and spend time making it work like that. Work on the video first then the data. Start at where the fibre tcvr's are at the control end and check each video channel (note any faults and leave the repairs until the cabling goes in the right places). Get the video routing right to each input. Then tackle the keyboards data. Make sure that the data cabling goes to the right places. You didn't say what make fibre gear it is but sometimes there will be a unit that just does the video and another that just does the data per camera, or a unit (tcvr) that does both on a single or dual fibre. The video side of things is normally straight forward but the data side can be tricky. Most of the Fibre Options/IFS gear for instance has a data LED on it that shows if data is coming through (NB doesn't tell if it's valid data though). The most common problem on control data (RS-485/422) wiring during installation is incorrect connections (+ and - swopped). From your description it sounds like the fiber data cables may be routed in a star config. This means that at the control end you really should have a data distributor (splitter) device to the PTZ's from the Keyboards, but I've seen jobs where the data has simply been parallel connected which sometimes works but sometimes not (off-sets/reflections etc). Use one PTZ data channel that you know works, and then hook up the first keyboard and get this working, then the second keyboard, then the rest of the PTZ data one at a time. Did the system at any time work as it was intended ? Perhaps it did not because the previous Co couldn't get it working. I've had my fair share of similar tasks ... condolences and good luck!!

GE's Part no in South Africa for this mod is 0110-A025, described as "Hard Drive Upgrade Kit". I agree that your shipping costs would be high for such a small item. It seems that all the mod PCB does is bypass the 12V DC line from the power pack jack straight to the drives. The 5V line is still fed from the motherboard. Makes sense as the 5V line probably feeds the drive processor PCB and the 12V line does the motors. Will get a snappy of this and send it to ya with more tech info.

The only reason I'm aware of is due to the current load of the HDD's on the motherboards regulator circuit. I've been running two modded DVMRe's (Rev 5.21) on a customer site, each with 2X 400Gb under the hood (customer didn't have budget for a DVSe !!) for over a year now. Before the power mod the DVMRe's kept rebooting with the new drives. After checking the debug messages on the "IP"/dev.ssi page it showed the problem as a failed disk spin check (before the DVMRe boots up properly it checks and waits for the drives to reach proper spin in xx Secs). A check of the current draw showed the prob. Upped the juice and no problem. Have quite a few GE units now running some months with 7200 drives.

The reason for the 5400RPM drives is because they draw less current on the DVMRe motherboards internal power supply circuit than a 7200RPM drive. The 5400RPM drive draws around 450Ma and the 7200RPM almost twice that. GE has brought out a piggyback PCB for the motherboard that seems to bypass the normal internal power supply in so far as the hard drives are concerned. I am able to obtain this mod PCB from GE in South Africa so it certainly should be available in the US. Otherwise a little bit of careful/skilfull electronic DIY, perhaps using an external low-profile PC power supply should be fine.