Lesst

I wouldn't use wireless, since you have power use powerline adapters with PoE at the cameras. That way you don't have any wireless security and speed issues. I have had powerline with PoE camera up 24/7 for many years. Rock solid technology.

Talk to an expert at https://www.altestore.com/store/

Solar done right isn't cheap for even a small load. A big expensive deep cycle battery or 2 are needed as well.

I install in outside cabinets in Florida and I have had no failures by removing the outer case and using a 6" fan blowing onto the circuit board.

I have installed very few PTZ cameras for clients because of cost but I now have an opportunity. I am concerned that when the client uses the PTZ function, they will not change the view back to optimum coverage. I know I have seen a return 'home' feature on some expensive PTZ cams. Does anyone know of any reasonably priced ($500-$1K) PTZ cameras (Brand) that have this feature? It seems a lot harder to get user docs from most low cost suppliers of cameras.

I would use some aluminum or stainless steal plate, thick enough and a little wider than the cameras back plate wall mount to mount the camera onto. Then use U Bolts the width of the pole to attach. Not knowing how the camera mounts you may have to have the U against the plate (rather than the nuts inside the back of the camera mount which would be unaccessible) and if you do you will have to space it out onto another plate layer where the U Bolt and plate connect to the pole and the camera plate is attached to the pole plate.

You will also need to consider where to have wire access into the mounting plate(s)

I have lots of other ideas but this is the simplest for me to explain today

Thanks, I didn't mention that IE on Win10 was an option, but I'm looking for a non IE / browser option that is free or cheaper than $50USD

I use simple apps on my photne to watch my cameras (IPcamViewerPro) and or DVRs. When at home and in the office I use IE to view with Activex. The new browsers and Windows 10 don't like Activex security vulnerabilities. I have used BlueIris and other full programs before, but is there a simple and free web viewer program for Windows that eliminates the need to use an Activex browser, and has a nice interface?

Mr OK_Duck you can't get something from nothing. I think I see a 7 as the first numeral of a second row. The CSI videos are not true; you cannot make such a small image any better. There are somethings besides tag numbers that i use often to catch culprits. Just last week a property manager and I couldn't quite make out a tag but the But the red Buicks bumper had a sticker on the back. I told her to drive the lot's around dusk and sure enough the tag started with the 7 we saw and had the same sticker. They are now paying for repair of the gate they broke.

That motorcycle has unique lines. Sit out and watch it go by some day. I know that’s a long shot but I wanted to make a point that getting a tag isn’t always a dead end.

We also caught some kids on a golf cart breaking a gate because the teenage girls pony tail was huge and very distinctive. The next morning at the bus stop there they were, dads now buying that property a new gate now too. Good Luck, Be safe and install 1080P or higher resolution cameras, it's 2015 for gosh sakes plus quality image IP cameras 1080P and higher MPs are now cheaper than a good name brand analog camera.

In my opinion CIF recording is worse than the VHS your replacing. CIF is 320x240 pixels where VHS is at least full frame. You won’t see much of anything at ¼ frame CIF resolution. You want a DVR with full frame D1 recording for analog.

You may need a hybrid DVR that can record analog cameras with coax connections and IP cameras that will connect through the one network cable connected to the router/switch. I have had good luck for many years with Aver 4, 8 and 16 channel EH series DVR's They are reasonable for what you get price wise. Not all cameras can connect so Aver has a list of cameras that work. Also many are ONVIF compliant and will work that way but it's not basic networking to set up.

You are right. Every panel supplier will have a different design inside, thus you have to pull a few breakers on each side to expose the bus bars to know what breakers sit on each bus.

Most electric boxes have 2 rows or column of breakers and every other breaker is on the same leg. It is not usually set up so the left column of breakers is one leg and right the second. It’s every other breaker that is on the left bus. You have to use a circuit breaker tracer to find both breakers then look to see if they are on the same physical bus. If you are not an electrician don’t do it, especially if it is not your property, get a pro. One frustrating thing about this business is everyone wants it done cheap, and paying for an electrician can be a barrier to get or do a job. I am just trying to lay out every possible scenario here from my many years of mistakes, in hopes it helps someone get through a powerline install in the future. I deal with many an old house, poor wiring, old dimmers that buzz, and pass along my experience to optimize a powerline network connection.

I had bad luck in connecting through a sub panel, but I only had one instance: a row of small plane hangars that I tried it out on. The first trick if you have a problem is to be on the same hot leg out of the main. You may have to get your network service near or to an outlet that also shares the sub panel bus. You can also find a trick by searching: X-10 .1uF Coupling Capacitor. I am not an electrician so I don’t touch electric circuits, and the capacitor is across the 2 hot legs to allow the signal to pass. The new 500mps powerline adapters have very good filtering. You may not get 500 but they will have the best throughput possible. To check the line noise you can plug in an old non digital AM radio and hear the line static, if it's overpowering, usually a dimmer, that's what the adapter has to deal with, if not too noisy you should get great throughput

I use the Trendnet EoP adapters quite often, and if they work in your test they will work for long periods of time with no problems. I just came from servicing a camera system in an old home used for an attorneys practice. I made a decorative box that had the wall plug wire into it which had my EoP and PoE adapters inside, and then ran out the CAT5 inside wiremold painted to room color up to the camera mounted in the corner, then slid the box under a piece of furniture. This system has been up solid for over 3 years.

I can't believe that only one manufacture (LevelOne PLI-3110 = $200 +/- USD) makes a powerline product with a PoE out, but it's expensive. I hope Trendnet will make one for under $100 USD soon, please. They work between brands too, as they follow the HomePlug AV standard. I have used the Western digital Livewire with 4 ports out to a home TV, Netflix, PCTV, setup connected from a Trendnet at the router.

I use the EoP TPL-304E with a Lan Power LP-2115 PoE adapter plugged into the “bonus” outlet on the Trendnet for its relative compact size.

Different country’s and carriers, different rules. Where in the world are you? You have not noted in your profile. I have set up WiMax in Florida, but had to use a Cradlepoint router to be able to control the subnet, open ports, within the WiMax connection, don’t use port 80, assign ports. Most terms don't allow constant video streaming on WiMax network, so I had to tune in sparingly, and the DVR recorded locally if we needed to review cameras.

I have used CradlePoint wireless modems in the past. They can be set up as a fall over network and automatically direct traffic to the cellular network if broadband is cut. Easy to design, just buy one and plug in. You may have some outgoing mail server issues by switching networks. But I’m sure this is addressed somewhere. I actually got faster speeds from the Cradlepoint on Sprint LTE and used it as the main network from time to time, but then data rates stopped that once it got to high.

FYI, when pricing on E-bay be sure to view the sold items which are found by searching "Completed" auctions, it's one of the options on the left under "Show Only". There you will see in Green text dollars how much stuff sold for not the sometime high price people have on items that will never sell at that price. This gives you real market value.

Coming soon: ASIS starts Sept 10, then ISC East, in late October in the US. There are more shows in US and worldwide too throughout 2013. You may want to start reading SecurityInfoWatch and join IPVM, an up to date what’s happening in the industry. Any others troops?

I'll take a shot. If you have or know someone with a smart phone, download a recorder app that saves as MP3s. Say 'warning video loss' stop and e-mail to you, then add to event trigger, done. You’re bound to have a microphone for your computer or laptop too. Lots of free online recorders available and save the e-mail step.

I have used some free online sound bites like Dogs barking, and warning horns before. I have a non-threatening sounding voice, but I would like to get some voice warnings recorded, like ‘warning, video of you entering this property has been delivered to offsite monitoring. Police will be notified unless you leave the area immediately.’ Any voice talent around.

I have been using 4x4 square aluminum poles the past couple of years and they are quite ridged, and have a flat face to mount most brackets and mounts. You can use fence tops that go on 4x4 plastic post to trim out the top nice. I have a 10' stepladder that I can take to any job. Most cams are mounted at 13-14 feet so I am right at the camera for easy service, and work the area nicely. You may have to buy a 20' or 24' stick to get a better price than a cut piece so ask the dealer. I saw an aluminum screen area being built recently. I may price their 4x4 painted stock next time; it may be worth it because powder coat painting is an additional $150 cost per post. Be sure to sink it 4' plus, and mud it in, and or add concrete for a steadier pole in the wind.

If you have clear line of sight. I have had great luck with Ubiquiti NSM5's in bridge mode. Just like having a wire between the two points. With the AirOS software You can check that you have just the right aim and signal between stations plus monitor/control almost everything else. And at a great price IMHO

I'm in the process of installing 2- Picostation 2HP at my home to link to my back yard workshop/office to get the experience of using the AirOS & wireless features. I have been consulting by phone with a tech that uses these and other Ubiquiti devices in hotels and small offices, but he has little video experience.

The aerial map shows the airport layout. NOTE: There is LOS between the hanger roof location #1 and the #2 pole on the runways north side. But the signal would travel over 4 metal hangers roofs and break the TX/RX signals IMHO. Camera 4 is on a roof and feeds to the Aver NV5000 2-card DVR via Internet. We are not adding it to the Wireless system now, but may in the future. This is a private network and we are not providing any service to any others. This area of 2500+ homes is served by ATT Universal services, and BrightHouse RR cable, and I know of no WISP in the area to interfere with.

I will use Axis M7001, or Vivotek VS8102 to convert the existing analog cameras to IP.New cameras I am looking at installing are the CNB IGB1110NF which is doing great at a front gate install I finished recently. Comment?

I'll be check out the Fluidmesh MITO nodes too. Any other contenders for performance, price, reliability?

Does anyone have a multi IP camera end user that I can talk to as a reference? THANKS!!

I have been maintaining an 8-camera system at a large private fly-in community. They had installed 10 cameras with Videocomm TCO-5808 to send the video back to the airport office. The original installer could not get the system to work and quit the job and I was hired to get the system running. We have 8 cameras where 2 are relayed to make a 90 degree turn to get those 2 cameras signal back to home. We only have 8 channels to work with at 5.8ghz, and 10 transmitters. I set the frequencies as far apart as I could but we still have cross talk images floating across some of the cameras images at home base.

We now have 3 TX out and 2 more failing. I am encouraging them to convert to IP links for the cameras, but they are a little shy of that cost after spending considerable funds to do the original install, plus my work too.

I have been shopping for IP wireless equipment and have found that Ubiquiti equipment is very popular, and at a good price for these kinds of networks, but I need to hear good or bad, about what equipment you would use for such a project. Im thinking Ubiqiiti NSM5's in bridge mode, as I want to stay in 5.8ghz band, as many homes/hangers along the way are using 2.4 wirless band making it cluttered for us to use.

They want me to locate 2 end users that are using similar closed IP links (bridge mode?) to transmit multiple camera outputs via IP so they can speak with them to assure that this solution will work and give us enough throughput for multi cam video feeds through the system.

I would appreciate any input on the equipment for this install, or any other applicable insights. You can also PM me if you have a client using IP for video that would be willing to discuss their satisfaction with installing IP video. Thanks everyone.

Hi We need a little more info to give you some insight. Which cameras and video system (Brand and model(s) are you referring to? Usually a DVR is at the home, connected to all the cameras and you view the DVR online. There are systems now that do send the cameras video to a remote server for recording and viewing.

jackhandsome I am sorry that my reply was terse, and I apologize to you, rory, and any other reader of this post may have felt that I was just flaming you or worse. It was not to demean you, I think you made that point. Now that you explained what the bigger story was, I'm sorry your timing was off and the new cameras were not focused properly. FYI, IMHO at dusk is the best time to focus your lens, as the lens (iris) is wide open and depth of field is at its narrowest. Plus you see the local viewing monitor screen to aim and focus better than in daylight. Then if the camera switches into night IR mode you can check it all during one time block.

Please forgive me again, as I stand by what I said in my first post, maybe not how I said it.

People are buying CCTV equipment, and coming to this wonderful forum to learn things, and I amplified a learning moment. Your story only emphasizes my point that you, for your father, are experimenting and investing in CCTV cameras and recorders to deter an act of crime or vandalism, and protect property. In this case a commercial storage facility that is paid by its customers to provide at some level a secure location to store their property. My point to others is why would you spend any money on cameras at a business if you didn't want the video to be used by the authorities to identify and convict a criminal act if necessary. Please, I'm not flaming again,

I too have been experimenting to find a more reasonable costing camera that can be used as a license plate reader. The key with any license reader is to be able to stop the tag from moving during the exposure. Any camera that gives you control of the shutter speed to at least 1/2,000 of a second may do the job for you. I have been using some other makes/models to do this but, I am currently checking out two new IP cameras from CNB, CNB-IGC2050F and the IGB1110NF, they are amazing for under $400 w/o lens. In an analog camera the incredible, infamous CNB Mona Lisa chip BBM-20F (less than $150. w/o lens) can capture up to 1/120K. Setting it to 1/2500 works for tags moving up to 20mph or so. You will also need IR Illumination LED Floods to light the reflective material on the tags at night, and the tags will be all you see in your LPR camera at night.