mike_va

I did a crude comparison: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23506

That's what I was thinking, there is no way to set the min shutter on the camera. I tried turning on the hall lights to no avail. In this case I am only a few feet from the camera, so I end up moving across the field of view pretty quickly. At least one field comes out not blurred, so maybe not so much a slow shutter problem? I was thinking that this may be inherent to analog cameras, if the camera waits 1/60s to shoot the next field in the frame. Some things I've read seem to imply this is what happens, but I wanted to have a clear understanding. I'll try it again with some different cameras this weekend where I can set the min shutter.

Yep, deinterlacing is on. When disabled, it is jaggedy as opposed to blurred as pictured.

Have not found much yet but ran across a similar statement in Axis "Lighting for Network Video"

Thanks Matt. Have to agree about the visible light. I leave a flood on out back, have not added motion yet. As it was a general statement, I was assuming all things being equal from a light standpoint which is what seemed confusing. I'll try to look into the wavelength aspect. There are some spots that I wanted to play with IR, due to the light pollution aspect and also people might get annoyed. Down the street one of the neighbors had a motion light backing to a walking path. Personally I appreciated this, but I think one of the teenagers most likely did not and ripped it off the house. If I remember the conversation right he was going to add some cameras... Kid is lucky he didn't get caught or..., guy's neighbor is in the Secret Service and there are a lot of other TS types in the neighborhood.

Check out also the Honeywell/Ademco Vista 20P. Bit of a learning curve but can do a lot. We've interfaced it to the RadioRa lighting and other devices. Aesecurity has reasonable prices and support, and it is well supported in forums also. Add a 4204 relay card to interface to the DVR contact closure input.

Getting email for package delivery. +1 figuring things out around the house (Birdman: enjoyed the Scruit videos). Videos of USPS and UPS tossing packages on the front porch - around Christmas time they were really letting them have it. Animals around the house - never would have known about the foxes or the deer that walked right across our driveway. Things that go bump in the night - all on a web page on any computer.

An inexpensive approach would be some network camera, e.g. Panasonic (or Axis if you spend a little more). So let's say $60-200. Hook it up to Vitamin D, analytic software that distinguishes people vs. objects. Can send email or pic to your cell phone. Demo version for one camera is free. Pretty neat software, not perfect but my entire system is based around it. It will generate some false triggers if it rains or is very windy. So easy to review footage. Tried the D-link and it was dreadful, returned to best buy. Another approach would be PIR based motion detect built into some cameras. Panasonic and Axis both have models with that approach, among others I'm sure. http://www.axis.com/products/cam_m1031w/movie/index.htm It's not going to look like the pictures they show but you get the idea.

That's pretty cool. These guys also make web control stuff: http://www.iobridge.com/

Here is a (somewhat blurry) pic of the Tamron lens on the left (the one in previous posts that gave me such a problem with day/night focus shift on the Axis P1344), and a Computar on the right that does not have this problem (both are 3-8mm).

Nice, thanks! Took a crack at pulling the specs on those LTC0510 50 IRE 0.032 lux f1.2 LTC0495 50 IRE 0.59 lux / 0.08 lux (Monochrome mode) LTC0620 50IRE 0.31 lux / 0.052 lux f1.2 Lunavision HO-S221 30% video 0.05 lux f.14 Lunavision HO-S321 30% video 0.003 lux f1.4 Samsung 0.05Lux@F1.2 (Color), 0.006Lux@F1.2 (B/W) --------- Amount of light to get 1 lux at sensor f1.0 5 lux f1.2 7.5 lux f1.4 10 lux f1.6 13.3 lux f1.8 16 lux

Oops I tried to do it x vs y, where x = left y = right. I'll go back and fix that. Bosch is B&W and on the right.

Tamron megapixel off my 1344. Someday I'll do the box, right now mounted under the back porch...

Bosch LTC0355 0.09 lux 50 IRE f1.2, 570TVL Samsung SCC-130B CCD IT type S-HAD CCD 0.25 Lux (F1.2, 50IRE), 330TVL (color) Honeywell HCCM474M Interline Transfer CCD Sony ExView 0.4 lux Color/0.1 lux (BW) @ F1.2 (50 IRE), 470TVL CNB VCM-24VF 0.1Lux color 0.03 BW SONY Super HAD CCD II, 600TVL (color, true day/night) NUVICO NVCC-41NA2 0.1 Lux SONY SuperHAD CCD Sensor, 480 TVL (color)

Bosch 0355 (bottom) vs. Nuvico (top, color). Started using better lenses f1.0 and swapped around in this example (one camera w/ f1.0 and one w/ f1.4).

HCCM474M (Honeywell) vs. Bosch 0355. Honeywell was pretty grainy so did not even bother to straighten out the shot, nice pic during the day though and really small. Honeywell does not have an ICR I think but switches to B&W at night. Must not have turned off all the interior lights as I see a small reflection in the window.

Bosch 0355 vs. CNB VCM24VF. The CNB has a unique picture, perhaps the Monalisa is doing compression to achieve this, also perhaps why running into a 241S it always has at least 50% higher data rate (day or night) than other cameras tried.

This has definitely inspired me to push on and improve things here. Really helps seeing what is possible. Thanks!

That would be great!

Very nice. Do you happen to know what shutter speed that is at?

Good point. My rationale was based on 1- that they are not any different than the CNB domes internally (i.e. not like they conformal coat the PWB's or used hermetically sealed components) 2- they are inexpensive compared to an expensive pro camera that might try to address this w/ dehumidification etc 3- my application is poking the lens through the lattice work under the back porch, so I could not use an enclosure. If you want to do it right, as has been pointed out get an enclosure.

Very cool, thanks!

I've used a BBM-24F outside under the porch with no enclosure for the last 1/2 year with no problem. Does not get super cold here maybe 17F this year. I may eventually try to protect from water a bit better (esp w spring around the corner) but it has been fine. Not an expensive camera so did not want to go to the bother.

Some of the other differences are the Bosch can run off 12VDC or 24VAC. Bosch in their literature also mentions they mount the LED's to are mounted to an aluminum heatsink, so probably they will run cooler and last longer. If I get a little extra time I want to use a thermal FLIR to see what the LED temperatures are. Putting the EX12 into google yielded prices in excess of $200.

Here are the innards of the 6 dollar unit. R5 looks like it shifted during soldering.