mike_va

I had this working perfectly (VitaminD/Sighthound, Axis Camera Station) for years then google changed things. Something about less secure apps maybe? How can I get this to work again? Do I need a different email account than google to send pics and notificaitons? Thanks in advance.

Any suggestions on how to do this (under 1K)? I only need a 20-30ft width. Prefer 940nm, or some filter that has a steep enough cutoff to not have a red glow. 940nm LED's must have a narrow enough spectral bandwidth to have no red glow (some of these still have a red glow, as noted in the manufacturer's datasheet). I have a Raymax 100-10, which does a great job out to 75 yards, but is 850nm. I also have a Bosch BDS30-8, which does about the same at 30 deg, also 850nm. Takes a fair amount of power to do that... Anyway that last 25 yards seems to be a sticking point...plus I want NO RED GLOW. The one I am considering is a Magnalight HID with filter, they say there is no red glow talking to them on the phone. I cannot seem to find any comments from anyone that has used. However the filter they have looks great, it is very hard (impossible?) to buy filter material that does not have some red glow (best thus far has been 87C longpass). http://www.magnalight.com/pc-1481-69-24-Volt-HID-Light--3200-Lumens--with-Covert-IR-Blackout-Lens-Cover.aspx Actually bought a LED flashlight to get the reflector, as this will hit that distance with white light. LED is actually very wide angle. Got some Osram 1A 940nm +/-60 which work great indoors with no reflector, but was hoping to use the reflector to get out there. Anyway did not work that well, perhaps the flashlight used a wider angle source and narrowed it. I've also purchase a bulk of Osram 940nm 8 deg LED's, but am doubtful I will be able to hit that distance. Going to try it as an experiment at any rate. Might also try pulsed to try and get there, but it may cause wavelength shift down into the visible... Any advice appreciated.

Thank you. I recently got this working. It was an issue where the 485 had gotten cut under the taped up area. Once that was fixed worked very nicely. Nice how you can pan etc by clicking on an area of the screen, zoom with the mouse wheel etc.

I am new to PTZ, and could use some advice. I've tried to reset it per the manual, and confirmed per the screen shot attached. I can not get my 241S or 243 to control it, just pans left to right non stop. Any advice appreciated. Hooked up with 4 feet of wire on the 485 to yellow/green (and ground), half duplex terminated.

Trying to make this a somewhat fair comparison. All lighting a 23W fluorescent flood. Bosch sense up turned off, gain at 20dB. Axis set to 1/60 sec. Two pics one with gain at 21dB, one at 35dB. Both lenses f1.0. Don't know how to post full res pics so just doing screen shots. I'd love to see an Arecont or Mobotix against a known analog cam with the settings specified. Actually I keep them both on, the P1344 is so good at capturing motion and detail during the day but the LTC0495 is really good at getting wildlife at night.

That's a great camera. Try a proper VMS, there are free versions from Axis or Milestone. I used a synology for a while useless sluggish POS playing back video...

High cameras are fine for an overview but if someone wears a hat not uncommon you will not get a useful shot.

It may just be that the camera is inexpensive and does not have an IR corrected lens? Anyway looks better with more light, that is a lot of light...

I tried a Revo once and it sucked at night. Here is a diagram.

http://www.wjla.com/articles/2012/09/prince-george-s-county-security-cameras-to-watch-speed-cameras-79829.html

Does fine at night with the lighting out front (a few small 3W LED candelabra). Mounting as shown was temporary for alignment. Top piece of vinyl board was trimmed, and camera was angled compared to the picture. Opening was a 3/32 hole, which does cut off the edges of the picture slightly since the camera ultimately was angled in the enclosure. After the mounting and angle was worked out both pieces of vinyl board were secured using hot glue. Although the camera is rated 0.02 lux, this is perhaps with a normal board lens. With a pinhole it compares to Bosch ratings of 0.1lux. Note: the camera as received was slightly "soft", loosening the small lens set screw allowed it to be more finely focused. Cat 5 was run to the enclosure, and baluns used. Allowed us to get rid of the camera sitting in the front window (which we never quite got used to the look of). Now use this to get notification photos via email of deliveries.

Here's what I did: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29539&p=200838#p200838 Even if you deal with the WDR issue (and the 484 is very good at this, also the sony 593 I think was the model) there is absolutely no substitute for a face level camera.

I didn't, still works fine. There is no way the camera can get wet. The hole is so small water does not get in, there is a gap of course between the enclosure and the house but there is no path for the water to get to the camera.

I know Axis does this it's called corridor view I think. Some of the cameras and encoders also do this.

What I do is use VitaminD for events. You could easily set up a rule to email pics during the time when you are out for lunch. Axis can record with a VMS, or to SD using their free software. One of the nice things about IP cams is they are a lot more flexible with the software and what you can accomplish.

Axis has some nice vandal domes. You can have it send an email or alarm for loss of camera.

I've always gotten a quick response, but have not asked them about cameras they do not support. In some cases I've found cameras that work that are not listed, and they have a few links to mjpeg listings on their site. Usually you can get the string from the camera manufacturer (e.g. Axis Panasonic whatever). You could try it on their demo SW which is free. Have not played around much with non mjpeg on VitaminD.

Somewhat, the bars will make it a little harder perhaps if you are concerned about people outside the gate. Just set up a rule. For absolutely no misses (both night and day, the latter being easier) you may have too wide an area.

Yeah, it takes some processing power but just buy a computer that can handle it. I have had up to 16 cameras (8 of them 1.3-3MP) running on an i7 does not even come close to using it all. Really an amazing computer. You also need to make sure to have a 1G NIC as the streams are all MJPEG. Don't know about an i3, i7 is not all that much more. My understanding talking to them is that the cores help. I think the i7 is also much nicer than the Athlon quad core I used to use. Above about 8 or 10 cameras will hang momentarily doing a refresh. The issue is HD writes! Took me quite a while to narrow it down to this. This can be SOLVED. It writes everything to the C:/ drive for crunching, then moves items of interest to the same or another drive if you have one. If you are trying to do it all to one drive it is just too much, recording and bringing events back. The trick is using a SSD for the main drive. I have it set up with an Intel SSD for C:/, and 1TB black. With that I can get over a month of storage. 5 yr warranty on the Intel. Same computer is also running 12 channels Axis camera station (separate bank of HD's), and 8 channels Milestone... The i7 is really amazing, and it does all that at around 100W... Someday I'm going to spend some time and do a post on VitaminD, it is much more useful than all the other VMS I've tried in terms of letting you know what is going on. A normal VMS is nice for going back on surrounding events, or pulling a 3MP shot etc. ACS is pretty cool in terms of the amount of integration you can do (and it is rock solid stable), and Axis cameras are great in terms of multiple streams etc. The other option for VitaminD with lower end processors is crunching a CIF stream, and using something else for the constant VMS. This other method takes much less processing power. One final comment, using Axis cameras above 1.3MP is also possible with VitaminD. I have a post out there somewhere on how to do this.

Even if you buy an Axis used Axis will support it. I've really been impressed with their support. I would check out the lightfinder domes from Axis.

VitaminD (analytics) and lately a rule that sends picture alerts to my cell phone in the 1-4AM range. For whatever reason that is when people are out up to no good, perhaps coincides with bar time but have not verified.

You might try another power supply, they are getting pretty old by this point.

In his example, if you make the value for Delay smaller it does not refresh faster? I have not tried it, and do not have any Acti cameras.

I dunno, works on mine frame rate is fine. I am doing it with over 8 cams, but scaled down. Here's some other examples I got from Axis a long time ago, maybe this will help you get something working var refreshrate=6; //SECONDS BETWEEN REFRESH var image="http://camera.no-ip.info:8080/jpg/image.jpg"; //IMAGE NAME var imgheight=470; //IMAGE HEIGHT var imgwidth=620; //IMAGE WIDTH function refresh(){ document.images["pic"].src=image+"?"+new Date(); setTimeout('refresh()', refreshrate*1000);} document.write(''); if(document.images)window.onload=refresh;

Hmm, works for me without blinking using firefox (granted, an old version) on a mac and W7. After the daily updates I said that's enough and disabled it back at 5.0.1. Also works on Chrome although I don't use that for anything else... I just have it set up as a shortcut on my browser so when I want to see the cams I can click that. After 30 seconds though the fan kicks on with this old macbook, have not tried dialing back the framerate.