mike_va

Can you copy the source code of the live page, and upload it here?

On my P1344 there is some thing under advanced/upload web files. Also Axis has great support if you contact them.

I think go into live view, use custom settings, upload web files or use own home page can't remember which.

As before, there is one 23W flood, one MIR1000 and one $5 ebay IR (at the moment). Top row left to right: Honeywell HCCM474 w dead pixels and too much light to switch to B&W (23W fluorescent flood), LTC0620 through window (23W flood), Bosch LTC0355 ($5 ebay IR and 23W flood partial). Bottom row: Bosch LTC0495 through window (CNB MIR1000), Panasonic 484 (23W flood spillover, I think w 2x sense up), CNB BBM24F (MIR 1000). Note: the CNB has very good IR sensitivity, but the Bosch 495 shown has a f1.6 lens compared to the CNB at f1.0 so gives the CNB an unfair advantage in these pics. The LTC0495 has much better controls than the CNB, but new is a lot more expensive 3x? The one complaint about the CNB is they tend to hold color at night too long, there is an external control on the BBM24F though that works. Edit: also I think on the LTC0620 the gain is turned down to 16dB for a nice noise free picture.

Did indoor testing in the last post of this title. Indoors they did not appear that different, aside from the Bosch feeling like a quality unit and having 12V/24VAC capability. Camera is a Bosch LTC0355, with what is probably a non-IR corrected lens. Outdoors is where I really see a difference, the indoor case must make the light more diffuse as it bounces off things. Tree is about 10 ft from the camera, and the left side of the pic is pre-lit if you will with a 23W flood. It's light is being blocked by the roof of the porch. Illuminators were placed 8 ft to the right of the camera (as viewed from the back). The EX12 is the wide angle with 10 ft of range. With the EX12 you can clearly see both trees in the center of the pic. On the ebay unit we moved it around also, and you can clearly see the spotlight effect. The Bosch provides nice even light.

Interesting, also part of the reason (aside from cost) that redesign/improvement is generally minimized. Sometimes redesign is finding a lower cost way, sometimes fixing problems, sometimes end of life parts they can't get. Rarely because an engineer has thought of a way to be slightly more clever though...

Or like I am familiar with. Engineers say, we can make one of these if you give us two years to develop. Management says you have 6 months, and heads will roll if you don't deliver. There is that too. Also they may have made for 10 years, but if something "works" you don't get do a redesign...

As an engineer, I can tell you they may have gotten it to a certain point and someone said ship it...

Nope designed to work with IP cameras (or servers), or I guess there is some option of a K World USB DVD converter or even USB webcams. Seems to work with every camera I've tried that does mjpeg push (Axis, Panasonic, Acti, Arecont). Does not work with the IP version of the 495 which does more of a mjpeg post when requested. I was kind of disappointed in Bosch on that one... http://www.vitamindinc.com/support/ref_guide_tips_02.html http://www.vitamindinc.com/support/ref_guide_tips_40.html

My best guess is the circuit couldn't take the extra voltage drop in the 12V case of two diodes effectively, but they still wanted some protection for reverse hookup in the 12V case. Could've just used Schottky diodes to make a bridge but that would have added another dollar to the part cost.

Here is the software I use, viewer window and events window. http://www.vitamindinc.com/ Just use the up down arrows on the computer to go through events, I play them back at 3x can go through the whole day in a few minutes. Can sort by people, rules etc. Easiest to use software I've ever tried, worth every penny. Picture in the viewer window is showing a bit of the glass reflection from the camera.

Just out of curiousity, can it do that with cars moving or just sitting still?

Yes, I would not pay that price. Nice little package though, and very even coverage. Does what it says for distance (maybe a bit more) which is more than some these days. The way it is built was not set up very well for manufacturing. E.g. the board inside is held on 2 standoffs under the board, so that when you loosen the screws they fall out. Also the board inside has a small heatsink to the regulator. Why? There is no airflow inside (completely sealed). The thermal path is through one of the standoffs... Take off the back panel and try to put it back on and you'll be a few minutes trying to get the photocell lined up again. Also kind of bizarre they spec as 12V/24V, which I expected to be like the Bosch cameras i.e. plug it in. Nope, internal there are two connections: one for 12VDC (through a protection diode) and one for 24VAC (through a bridge rectifier).

Thanks for taking the time to post the detailed review of the Qsee. These are my "overview" cameras for the most part. Supplement w/ 2x P1344, 1x P3344, 1x Arecont 3135. Top row left to right: Honeywell HCCM474 ($20 used), LTC0620 through window ($100 used vg low light 1/2"), Bosch LTC0355 ($5 used). I like the Bosch because of the control: default shutter is implemented correctly, AGC can be set exactly, sense up is useful in moderation. Bottom row: Bosch LTC0495 through window ($75 used), Panasonic 484 ($75 used, does great with strong backlighting in this location, like the autofocus when switches from d/n, also has the blackest "black" color), CNB BBM24F ($125 new, good sensitivity in IR region but not as nice a picture as the Bosch or Panasonic). All digitized through 241S encoders. Have left out the Axis P1344/3344 as have posted those previously on this forum. Will try to post pics again later when dark. Edit: 0495 is through a Axis 2400, just remembered that when I saw the little exclamation point in the Vitamin D shots following. It does that when the frame rate drops below 10FPS or something like that, the 2400 does D1 at around 8FPS (one of four channels used). Drop to 2-4FPS and the software can miss very short events though.

Same one as before, around 240-270 new google (I think it was less before somehow). Posted mainly to show the difference in coverage. Hope to get time to post some results in the next few weeks of units I've collected over the last few months, CNB MIR1000, Raytec 100. Wish you were in the neighborhood with that ebay large unit you bought. Here's the link to the old topic viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24084 The ebay unit is so much of a spotlight (and not at the center) that it might be hard to get even coverage even if more ebay units were deployed. Makes tweaking camera settings easier. Playing around with the larger units it is possible to reduce the AGC (on reason I love the Bosch 495 and even my P3344) to reduce the whiteout effect. I wonder if that is how they do it on those CNB's, looking at the histogram in software and adjust the AGC?

Thanks, looks nice. I like the front porch enclosure, we have something similar in the hallways at work in the ceiling and no one ever notices them.

With sense up it will lower the max frame rate. With a slow shutter setting of 1/6s like some IP cameras allow you to do you can get no more than 6FPS, because it needs that time to take the picture (assuming progressive scan IP camera). Analog cameras at night nominally are two 1/60 sec exposures interlaced to give you 30FPS. If you apply sense up will slow that down accordingly also. I'd first look at the compression settings in both the camera and the DVR, you have some artifacting going on there - same effect you will see with a DSLR if you compress it too much in a JPEG.

A user named scruit had done some experimentation with this, e.g. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=23765&hilit=scruit+license I've done it successfully as an experiment in the daytime with an Axis P1344 and 60mm lens at 200ft, the camera is nice since it sets the exposure more towards the fast end. BTW this is with an auto iris lens and also through a piece of tinted plastic with 11% light pass-through. If you go the IR route, CNB makes some reasonably priced units MIR1000 and 3000. I've not yet gotten it to work at night with the headlights. Obviously going with an IR pass filter and illumination this would take a fair amount of IR to get a good shutter speed at night at 200ft... A lot of auto iris cams will default to 1/60 s if you use with an auto iris lens. I think one manufacturer had also recommended recording in 2CIF if you have that capability and are using an interlaced camera. Good luck and I'm sure others would be interested to hear about your experiments and results.

I got some of those from the home depot and the trick was not stripping the wire. Huge pain tho very hard to see, now I try to buy prefab there are a few places that sell Belden pretty cheap $3/50'

If you can deal with only B&W buy a used LTC0355 w 5-50mm $10-15 and a $5 ebay illuminator (40 ft might be optimistic though, 20 ft works). Otherwise your best bet might be looking for the less popular day/night cameras which can sometime be found used for 20-30 untested and IR or some small amount of lighting left on. There are a lot of recommendations on this forum. Good luck...

You could look at the CNB MIR 1000 and 3000. I have the 30 deg and it's a nice unit, would be nicer if the power was adjustable like Raytec/Axis but it's less expensive.

Got one of these on sale at best buy for $60 a few weeks back (hard to pass up playing with at that price). Compared to Acti cubes - picture is kind of washed out - has nicer firmware - stable, no periodic artifacting issues Captions motion well, has no poor low light as expected. Also has an internal mic. "POE" is lame, comes with a 9V PS and an injector... The internal lens is SMALL, the chrome ring on the front just has a clear piece of plastic. The lens is that tiny dot in the center of the PWB.

You can buy a Honeywell or Bosch supply on ebay for $20-50 that has a 24VAC transformer enclosure fuses etc. I just picked up a 8 channel Honeywell HPTV2408UL new for $20 to power some of my cameras. One of the advantages of 24VAC is that it is not going to wear out like a 12VDC supply, nor have as many components that can fail.

All the enclosures for box cameras seem to be pretty large. Does someone make a small enclosure just big enough for a box camera, to protect it from the elements? Something maybe ~ 3" diameter and 7" long, just big enough to slide a camera in? Basically trying to make a bullet out of a box camera. Really like the controls on my Bosch cameras, and would like to deploy a few more outside without making the house look like a prison. Thanks in advance.

You'll need ICR to do IR. The 212 is not a day night camera and has a poor lux rating. FYI Axis specs their cameras at 1/6s I think. You can see some examples of the P1344 at viewtopic.php?f=19&t=25728 I have no experience with Sanyo.