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mike_va

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Posts posted by mike_va


  1. Note that highly zoomed in lenses only uses the very middle part sometimes. You can sometimes peek them over the sill of the window.

     

    You could also use a pinhole lens, but tend to lose a lot of the light sensitivity at night

     

    Or buy a longpass filter (looks like black plastic) passes IR but blocks visible light (costs maybe 10-20 look at Edmunds). Since you are using B&W cams you will still get a picture during the day.

     

    Good luck


  2. I took a look at the Bosch UFLED models, specifically the UFLED20-9BD. It's tough to compare because Raytec doesn't list a distance spec for its 940nm models (the 850nm version is rated for 80m). Bosch also has a "SuperLED" line which costs twice as much and seems to be overkill for my purpose (capturing license plates at night) - if the UFLED20-9BD's rated range of 135m is accurate, that will be more than enough. And the Bosch units seem to be easier to get; unlike the Raytec covert models, a few places claim to actually have the Bosch units in stock. I don't want to wait 4-5 weeks to get my new toy.

    stuck that in to google and "With 18 high efficiency surface-mounted LEDs, the AEGIS Illuminator offers a wavelength of 940 nm and proves effective up to 260' (80m)."


  3. I'm playing around with plate capture and filters, fun stuff.

     

    The Holy Grail is plate capture at night. Is the RM100 up to the task?

    Just ordered some new filters with a steeper cutoff. Here is a cheapo longpass with megapixels at 1-100 sec shutter and lowered agc. Plan to show some pics once I get this all perfected. This is way out there, maybe around 250 ft according to google maps arial.

    1662045272_Picture11344agc6dB1-100s.jpg.0f5baa946819fbfc051c73b96aade0be.jpg

    1746465909_Picture10a5021-100noagc1.3MPandfilter.jpg.064ae53a3251e6660363bec1143d2a1e.jpg


  4. After futzing around with anemic IR illuminators which just aren't up to the job, I've decided to bite the bullet and buy one of the best. My problem now is finding a place that has them in stock.

     

    Raytec itself is of little help; they sent me to a distributor, who told me "we don't sell to end users." Although I found a few online retailers who sell Raymax products, none seem to actually stock the model I want (RM100-F-30-C) - they quote a 2 - 4 week wait to get one.

     

    Any suggestions as to where I can buy one of these bad boys today?

     

    Thanks!

     

    Plus the cameras are less sensitive at 950. Raymax told me they were not totally covert, despite various opinions elsewhere. Anyway, I just live with the glow...

     

    The other night my neighbor was looking at our house with a WTF look, I think from the glow. On the other hand maybe she was just admiring the Christmas lights.

     

    pic9 is a CNB BBM24F (best IR sensitivity I've found thus far) at 1-250sec, pic 8 is an Axis P1344 at 1-100 sec - both at ~ 200 ft out. This is a 10deg Raytec RM100, it rocks. I'm playing around with plate capture and filters, fun stuff.

    1740408651_Picture8.png.6c7ce44763ef251ecc4cb8d0bb1c4be5.png

    1086293778_Picture9.png.113c4340133c642e8b8d49cdebada50f.png


  5. Has anyone gotten this to work reliably? It works fine monitoring, until playback and the sound drops out after a few seconds. Using it with a Louroe mic setup, that part works great.

     

    The 243 works fine with Axis Camera Station, but was thinking of going over to Milestone if I could get this bug worked out.

     

    Also, has someone used Milestone Essential to support more than one audio channel? I've read conflicting statements.

     

    Thanks in advance.


  6. I had posted some examples somewhere on this forum of both of those. Night is nowhere close to CNB BBM24F...Bosch 495's used can be had in that price range and are great cameras.

     

    I did a search for bosch 495 and it comes up with Bosch VDN-495 which was $600 is there a different camera you are speaking of.

    The LTC0495 and VDN495 are discontinued but show up used. The 498 is killer with WDR, the 620 1/2" is great for low light. Default shutter concept is great, don't know why others don't do it.


  7. I would guess from a legal standpoint it might be better to leave out the first bit (safety), as it might imply something.

     

    I'd just say surveillance, if you thought it might help with property damage or something. There are some interesting studies if you look around as to what cameras help with and don't.


  8. Blue Iris works, and the guy actually responds almost instantly to questions. I've played with it a few times.

    Hi Mike,

     

    So you've used it with the Avigilon encoder? Cool. Now I just need to find a dealer.

    Extremely poor choice of words on my part. I meant "works" as a recording program. I'd send him an email.

     

    Edit: I'd bet the ENC-4P-H264 could be made to work since it does mjpeg


  9. For that kind of money you could buy an I7 and run milestone...I think ZT systems has an I7 around $700 draws about 100W. The ZT quad core I bought had a MSI motherboard. I bought a Dell XPS I7 for my main recording unit, it is amazing (on sale at Costco for $1000 with a widescreen monitor).

     

    Milestone has a free version called Xprotect go, you can upgrade to Essential pretty inexpensively. If you're trying to keep it real low cost check out Blue Iris.

     

    I run Xprotect for recording, 4 channels of Axis Camera Station (which won't work for you) and VitaminD which I still think is the best program for a house where you just want to know what is going on.

     

    Vitamin D can be somewhat processor intensive, but I can run 16 cameras (4 of them 1.3M) and use around 25% processor. Truly a glorious machine. I just VNC into it or tunnel for remote access, there is no client. Xprotect you also have to go to the paid version to get a remote client. I will also say this: VitaminD and Blue Iris also have great email support!

     

    I can run 8 channels of Milestone on the quad core and not take up that much. Some day I'm going to get all three programs going on the I7, I think it can do it (not on one hard disk though). Just get a real computer you'll be a lot happier with the responsiveness of the system. Depends how much you will use it also, because you'll pay an added ~$100/yr electricity. Kind of a rambling response but still working on that first cup of coffee.


  10. Good suggestions from Rory, also are you running fluorescent or white LED? I have one camera that does that with a certain LED light.

     

    5 of those on a 12V 5A supply sounds a little ambitious. Here's why. They have DC-DC converters in them. As the voltage drops (i.e. line drop getting to the camera), they will pull even more current from the PS. Just the way they work. Put it on an adjustable supply and you will readily see this effect. So they may be pulling more than the spec'd ~0.7A ea (rounding here out of laziness).

     

    If you had a cheapo 12V only usually they linear reg the 12V down to what is needed - and you will not see this effect.

     

    The other thing is derating. It sounds like you have 5 cameras on a 5A supply? That's 0.66A, which technically is fine but if there is a surge when the IR kicks on you may be putting the supply into current limit. Or that in combination with low line. The other possibility is that you have an interaction with the switchers. There are conditions where they can become marginally stable, thus your idea of trying a dedicated 24VAC is a good one.

     

    The last thing are those 12V supplies themselves, some of those ebay specials are not designed to reject noise etc (probably not even UL, let alone CE etc). You may have garbage coming in on your line not rejected, or it may be creating noise. I would really use 24VAC, and keep that on a UPS with line reg. I do not like those supplies - you don't want that to be the weakest link. A good transformer is much more reliable than a switcher designed and manufactured who knows where. Unless you are buying a brand name with a good qualification program gooood luck

     

    Might be a ground loop too. You'll just need to start with the simplest thing and add to it to see where you get a problem.


  11. At that distance and MP cams I'd add more IR than a CNB...

     

    The sign on the toilet or whatever shows up good because it reflects better than the face.

     

    Here is a random person at 150ft with a Raytec RM100-10 and Axis P1344 with 1/30s shutter, this is a screenshot of 1/4 of the picture.

     

    No streetlights at all where those cars are. 50+ feet further out there are some house lights though.

    1079975547_Picture2.png.2398ac4b9196aa27b121dfaaf1612057.png


  12. The datasheet I found implied the Mintron runs at 4x sense up (slow shutter). Can this be disabled? If this is at 4x sense up it would not really be a fair comparison.

     

    For example, two pics - one at nominal, one at 4x sense up. The fence in the background is only visible with the 4x.

    1205209963_LTC0620f1.015dB0x.jpg.1312ae9757fda981547a30790d635d5c.jpg

    929263513_LTC0620f1.015dB4x.jpg.cf6c9314bad4fc017df643c64d093b72.jpg


  13. I am going to try a new Mintron Dome camera that has similar specs to the one I am using. So far, for the price, I haven't found a better camera.

     

    • 83SR10HN-VP-VF
      83W7N-VF-VP

    In fairness, it seems this mintron is default 4x sense up? That would make sense with 0.0014 --> at no sense up that is ~ 0.006 probably at 30IRE which is possible at least, still sounds a little optimistic.

     

    I have played with some 1/2" Mintron B&W though that are pretty amazing...

    1073829944_Picture5.png.f31cc73e5256304e903d4356650fd638.png


  14. @ak357: thanks

     

    I was not going to respond, but a friend of mine sent me this which I thought put things nicely.

     

    http://100fps.com/

     

    http://100fps.com/video_resolution_vs_fluidity.htm

     

    "It is nearly impossible to film something with NOTHING in that scene changing so that nothing gives you mice teeth (=interlace artefacts).

    What scene would that be?

    1) Nothing moves actively. No car, no person. Neither in the foreground, nor the background.

    2) Nothing moves passively. No shadows, no grass, no leaves, no curtain.

    3) Nothing moves the camera. Neither the camera man, nor the wind.

     

    As you see this is impossible, otherwise I have to ask you: What you are filming? A wall?"

    521918983_Picture6.jpg.c19d36f20171010170948aeae8fa3dcd.jpg

    1496356371_Picture5.jpg.d02fd6ac2d2f0c7dc3e12f6289552633.jpg

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