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mike_va

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Posts posted by mike_va

  3. Posted

    Yep, I hear you. Still I've noticed it quite a bit around. Attached is one pic that I noticed it in at the time. It depends how fast something is going, or how zoomed in the camera is.

     

    viewtopic.php?f=19&t=24164

     

    Never going to get around the fact that the fields making up a frame are taken at different points in time. And those times are pretty slow, so the images are always going to be shifted...for objects that are moving. In general people seem to post a lot of "still" images.

     

    Similar to why anyone watching sports or playing video games would much rather do it on a progressive scan monitor/TV.

     

    Same reasoning Bosch suggests for doing 2CIF expanded I think for plate capture.

    504176093_Picture3a.jpg.ece33b25acb8d2df8a6ff0b224d1ee23.jpg

  4. Posted

    Yes agreed, it simply can't be avoided due to the camera taking the pic at different points in time. By the time you are close enough to get enough pixels with a moving object you have interlacing. As you've pointed out (in other posts) though one can always remove it after the fact with software.

     

    That pic also shows up on this link

     

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interlaced_video

     

    Of course as one is farther away zoomed out it is not noticed as much, however hard to get the desired detail. So much better with progressive and a few MP...

    1709407228_axisdeinterlacing.png.a40ab7a9e34ed1ad3877f76382061cb2.png

  5. Posted

    Problem is that when the current drops at daybreak, the camera will see 15.25v. I realize that these cameras have an internal regulator to compensate for variances in power supplies, but how much can they take before they start to fry?? Adding to the problem is that transformer power adapters drop voltage under load, so the day-night voltage swing is higher than with a regulated switching supply, but switching supplies produce a lot of noise, so what to do??

    Not all switchers produce noise, e.g. every camera that is dual voltage already has one inside.

     

    I would not run it that high. Depending on the camera it may cause reliability issues.

     

    I'd use the other pair as suggested to get the drop down, or as sense lines since you have a lab supply (but the first method is preferred).

  6. Posted

    No IR shift or ring issue with this one. Anyway, I don't think I call myself a fan. They do work well (even the smart IR feature) but are not the best. They do provide good well exposed images out to about 20-25ft. It really is kind of sorting through a few good options in this price range, I don't think I could ever see spending more than this on bullets though.

     

    If I was going to spend more money I would go a little higher yet and buy Bosch 495/498 and get quality and quit screwing around with bullets...the 498 and the 2x dynamic range feature is pretty amazing, as good as if not better than the Panasonic 484.

     

    My favorite right now though are the Axis P13xx series and the big Raymax IR units, really puts all of these analog cams to shame. Man, I hate interlaced video on analog cams - and there is no reason for it they could use progressive capture and convert it back to interlaced to transmit...

  7. Posted

    I have a two storey house and I intend to put the cameras up under the eaves of the roof which is two times as high as a one storey house. I suspect around 22' high vertically

     

    Do you recommend I get the qt 528 over the qt 428 which offers 100 ft night vision over just 40 ft? Or is it better to save the extra money?

     

    Secondly, I plan to have one of these cameras pointed at my door but this camera like the rest will be on the under the eave of the two storey roof. will I be able to have this one camera provide a zoom coverage instead of wide angle? Will this be too high to be able to determine who is at my door?

     

    Thanks

    The 100ft is a decent camera, here's some shots

     

    viewtopic.php?f=5&t=27498

     

    Really only half that distance for the IR (not untypical), however I would read up on lens calculators if trying to do that from the second story.

  8. Posted

    The Qsee QSM5265C costs about 1/4 the CNB, but actually does a pretty good job.

     

    Both are ICR, CNB has a varifocal lens but the Qsee is much easier to mount (and conceal wires). The CNB has an internal joystick to access the menu, the Qsee what you see is what you get.

     

    Colors are not as good during the day (cheap CMOS) but night pic is decent, probably compensated for with extra LED's.

     

    Not all CMOS sucks, my Axis P1344 are CMOS but have much better color than CNB. And I've had CCD cameras that have had much worse sensitivity...

    856968762_Picture5qseej.jpg.2e58e8d7632c6ac44aad9a2a9e2d397f.jpg

    1645647655_Picture7cnbtele.jpg.a316ae09c1766a0146f8448664a33902.jpg

    1710000391_Picture9cnbwide2.jpg.43f48117224dd1e97aaa6531457c7d60.jpg

  12. Posted

    I have been reading this forum to help with my diy project for my home. I have now across an issue that i cannot find an answer with the search function. I have an arecont 5100dn camera (without AI) and a fujinon MP dc auto iris lens. How do i use this lens with the camera? Is there a way to open the iris (like by applying dc voltage to pins x and y) and keep it open to use it with the non AI arecont?

     

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks.

     

    I did this, took a pot to see what it took to keep it open and used that value with a little margin. I think it ended up being around 400 Ohms for the one I tried, but could be wrong on that. Connectors can be obtained from mouser, there are links if you search around the forum a bit.

  15. Posted

    Just buy a 930nm+ IR illuminator - that wavelength is invisible to the Human eye.

    Not all cameras will see that light though.

    I was talking to Raytec the other day. They don't quote distance on their 940 so I was curious. It sounds like they were also saying you still end up seeing a glow, unless you go even higher in wavelength. They implied you could get roughly the same net effect turning down a 850 unit, in terms of usable vs. visible light.

     

    I have not used 940 though so have no experience.

  16. Posted

    If I look through a longpass filter at a light bulb you will still see a red glow. still fun to play with. also nice material if you ever need to put something behind some heavy tint.

     

    Someone once told me you had to really go up in wavelength to not see it. Also probably will not be that efficient.

  17. Posted

    HI there

     

    I have posted a few times on here about my situation and am about to jump in with both feet into IP. Specifically I am honing in on either Arecont or Acti and wanted to see what feedback all had.

    I have not used either included s/w as I have a mixture of cams at home.

     

    I found Acti to be marginal, in terms of the firmware and it just did not feel like a solid camera (like an Axis).

     

    Axis needs light. The other day I was playing with a RM100-10 at around 200ft and an Axis P1344 at 1-60sec and it was amazing.

     

    Arecont I was worried about after some of the comments on this forum. I read something that said Google used tons of them, and I've seen Dulles International Airport is full of them. I bought a 3135 and still have to say it is a good camera in many regards. Arecont is probably not perfect in terms of quality since they are a new company and cutting their teeth (and zero response when I've asked them questions, so buy them from someone who will back them up). I've seen a lot more Axis and Arecont MP out and about than Acti, around here anyway.

     

    I run milestone (free version) and Vitamin D paid version. I like the multiple windows (e.g. one zoomed in, one out of the same camera on milestone. The free version is somewhat limited though since there is no remote client, and audio recording is only on one channel. Also I would have to say that milestone is not super responsive even on a nice computer but is stable.

  18. Posted

    this summer has been hell for testing!

    to carry on with that thought, attached is the datasheet in the box. Has different values of lux rating, which do not match the website I bought it from...or the manufacturer's data sheet.

     

    Also I thought originally it was a 3.7 or 4.3 available. I think now it is 4.3mm at f3.7.

     

    In the same way, I think the other 3 (not 6) lens types are 6mm @ f2.45, 8mm at f2.97, and 12mm at f3.6.

     

    Maybe, I don't know...it is just confusing...

    IMG_0392.jpg.9feee1a20f99d0377e87c08e62b6939f.jpg

    IMG_0393.jpg.20d5d415cf9bf7b4edf464d7a61ba653.jpg

    1844537386_Picture38.png.b6bad499587756231cb9d25bf9bcdaac.png

  19. Posted

    Maybe the BW camera doesnt like the glass then .. can you get it outside of the glass?

    raining here tonight someday perhaps.

     

    I took the rating with a grain of salt. After a lot of cameras, if it's not exview or 1/2" I pretty much don't believe anything better than 0.05 lux. So many tricks some of them play adding crazy amounts of AGC etc. And I was figuring pinhole type of hit on the the 0.05 lux rating if that was even real, which matches up with what I'm seeing.

  25. Posted

    Having done all that we did a walk test on the front of the house, it is able to get enough from the lights on the front of the house to get a very good image. The plan (long term) is to incorporate this into our intercom system. We'll only need a small hole in the external speaker for this to peek out of.

     

    Note, this runs at about the same current for 9V and 12V, as it gets pretty warm we intend to run this at 9V.

     

    Hope this helps someone, I was able to find zero images of these small pinhole cameras on the web. Maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough.

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